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Comments
Now, the drivers seat still doesn't work. Is there some other fuse some place else that runs this? Like, a secondary fuse under the seat? I am stumped.
Regards, FloridaDomer :confuse:
I had a no start Volvo back in ~'75; it busted a tooth on the flywheel and the starter would occasionally engage normally but it wouldn't start. I'd crawl under it with a screwdriver and move the flywheel over a notch through a little access port, and it'd work fine for a while. After a few months of that, the stress busted some more teeth and it was off to rebuild it. Ring gears on starters sometimes break off too.
Long shots from the history vaults but something to chew on until some better suggestions come along.
Steve, timely and value added advice...I'll keep everyone apprised of developments and hopefully, a fix, when found.
Keep the cards and letters coming. Regards, FloridaDomer
Keep the advice coming...first time in a forum, and I'm impressed at the caliber of responses. If found, I'll pass on the solution for the record.
Don't be shy with suggestions. Regards, FloridaDomer
My previous engines were the 5.4 260HP.
Why does Ford build an engine to make noise like this? How long can I expect this engine to last?
Has anyone experienced the steering rack loosening up? If so, have you been able to have it tightened or replaced??? Ive had many dealers drive it and say its not a safety issue and FORD allows for marginal flaws and it would be tough to find the exact cause.
I cant take it much more and need to know if theres anyway to have to rack tightened or replaced.
Thanks :mad:
I'm on my third battery and third alternator. Now, about a week ago, the radio just quit. Turned off the vehicle, came out about forty-five minutes later, and it was fine. Today, I pulled into a Mickey D's and parked on a decline. It idled for a couple minutes then died (1/4 tank of gas) It wouldn't start right and it sounded like a fuel issue. Put 2 gallons in it and it starts. COOL! BUT!!!! It will not shift out of park, the windows do not work, the radio will not come on, and the front blower is in overdrive to the defroster, but I can't shut the system off. I have a service engine soon light, a suspension light and no battery problems. Good voltage, and cranks like a champ. All the fuses are good. Hard to tell about the relays, cause it's in a parking lot. I cannot afford a dealership diagnostics after the tow. Right now I can;t even get it out of the McDonalds parking lot. HEEEEELLLLPPP!
when replaced the original goodyears on my explorer with michelins, i gain a lot of quiet, but lost road feel and some handling.
I want to have it fixed but would like to get a general idea on what the cost might run me to fix it... if you have fixed yours can you fill me in on what caused yours to show you the error and about how much it ran to fix...!
I bought the car from a used car dealer, but the previous owner had installed these 22" chrome rims and tires on it. To make the deal, the dealer purchased a new set of 17" alloy rims and tires that had been on a new Ford F-150 (and hardly ever driven) and put them on my SUV.
The "Tire pressure monitoring system fault" warning is displaying (the dealer noted it had been displaying with the 22" rims as well). After reviewing the owner's guide, I figure it is because although these wheels match OEM Eddie Bauer rims, they must not have been equipped with the tire pressure monitors on the wheels.
Does anyone know if those monitors can be added after the fact? Obviously, the car is equipped with the monitoring system, so if the transmitters were in the tires, it should work. I guess I was curious what this would run me if I went to a Ford dealer and asked to have it done. I'll call tomorrow, but I imagine it will be some $$$.
Thanks for your help!
Good Luck!
Travis
Solution. Do a vacuum loss test, replace, patch the vacuum lines as needed and keep the battery clean as possible. Replace the battery if necessary. Also added a plastic tie at home on my own to keep the vacuum lines from direct contact with battery or battery shield. Also periodic careful washing of vacuum lines with garden hose has helped.
As additional information, the shop foreman indicated the system has a built-in guard to keep the 4X4 from self destructing when the above vacuum is lost and all the grinding noises start.
Thanks again for all these posts. . . makes life so much easier when explaining things to dealers. I dont feel like im going crazy anymore. . .love my truck and glad to hear its not a lemon. . . lol
Mine too would stop the grinding noise by switching to AWD. Obviously by being in AWD the system was no longer trying to keep the hubs locked out. We had to resort to AWD on the way back from the beach at Hilton Head Island this summer. On the hills in NC/SC the vacuum would drop with any extra gas pedal at all in 2WD high and all the grinding would start. Stopped immediately in AWD.
With reference to the time my 4wd system quit working, there was a switch (low cost as Ford prices go) that was bad. Not clear whether the battery acid had a role--but
the switch is mounted on the firewall right in the area where the battery acid damaged the vacuum lines.
Speaking of frustrations, it was only after the second or third repair that the dealer found the acid was causing the problem. Earlier had said the vacuum lines may have been rubbing on a sheet metal edge.
P.s. Thought about removing the battery shield (bag looking thing)as it sags over against the above vacuum lines near the firewall. But, don't know the function of this new high tech bag apparatus? Ha!
Except for the time when the 4wd went out 100% and had to have the switch on the firewall replaced, my 2004 has not had any noises or malfunction at all in 4WD in either high or low.
Up to 60,000 miles on my 2004 NBX. Overall low trouble and feeling I might drive it for a while now that gas is down around $2. Would like to have the extra bit of power of the 5.4 3v from 2005 and up. The only other significant probelm for my 2004 has been that 3 of the 4 NBX's off-road steel wheels are bad out-of-round from the factory per the local tire stores. Wheels made by Hollander? Anyone know? Need to find some decent wheels--driving me nuts, wheel balancing no help.
P.s. I felt confident before my post under number 1634 above that my experience with the vacuum leaks and the hub noise in 2wd would be of value to others. This mystery front 4X4 hub noise was solved as a joint venture between the Ford dealer shop manager, the Ford District Rep and me. The first time we could not duplicate the noise on any hills nearby, but the Ford District Rep happened to be there that day and knew about the problem from visits to other Ford shops. He outlined steps to solve the problem based on my description. the District man however did not mention battery acid as the culprit with the vacuum lines. Amazingly no harm to the front hub assembly has been noted even though it sounded like the left front wheel was being ground off.
I would SO love to contact mine in South Florida about my loose steering rack. The dealer just brushes it off that "it drives better then most" and "it would be difficult to find the problem". Contacting Ford themselves does no good, they just tell me that i need to see a dealer, and even though theres a TSB for a nibble in the rack, theres no TSB for loosened racks. Pretty lame, huh. Anyway, if you can let me know where i can find out who my distric rep is, that would be a HUGE help.
Thanks again
WE LOVE IT!!
Does anyone know how to get the key pad code?? Does the dealership charge for this information?
-Cj :confuse:
Another idea is to strike up a conversation around the shop and someone will blab out the date the Rep will be there, the name, etc. Old police trick. HA! Another is to make a total pest of yourself while maintaining business like composure. And, fill out and keep a copy of the dated form requesting the District Rep call you. Have someone there sign and process the request.
But, over the years I have done the best by working as close as possible with the shop manager or tech closest to the problem. They feed off praise--let the local guy be the one to make the call in your favor assuming they can fix the problem in the first place.
General TSB such as from NHTSA can be helpful, but they can be misleading.
Close observation of the sights, sounds, smells related to the problem is paramount in helping the tech if the problem cannot be duplicated. Write down date(s)and time,temperature, towing or not, speed, load, etc.
Ford also has something called Oasis where the tech inputs problem information into a nationwide Ford database. I had a 2003 Ford Explorer that had a weird A/C moaning noise that was only heard when temp and humidity were both over 83-85. Right there in black and white on the Oasis printout was the problem plain as day--the Ford tech believed me then. Only Ford did not have an economical fix and said to check back later. The A/C completely quit under warranty later and the noise never returned.
Finally don't be a total cheapskate. The dealer trying to make a profit notices when you pay for what is fairly yours.
..hope some of the above might me of help to you..
If you input the code then press 3, all doors unlock;
If you input the code then press 5, the rear glass opens up;
Is that all the keypad does or is there more?
-Cj 2004 Black Expedition Eddie Bauer w/DVD
"I just bought a used 03 Expedition, and didn't have the factory keyless entry code.
After, some google searches, I've found the location on mine. It was located on the passenger side, under the dash. You have to remove the passanger floor foot panel, look towards the fender and you'll see the fuse box. Next to the upper left corner of the fuse box, there is another smaller black box with a white sticker, look for the 5 digit code. This was my factory code.
Others have posted that it's on the drivers side, but that is for 02 and older."
Take it easy.
MrSCL
Mark.
-Cj