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The function is working fine. But I feel it is unnecessary and I am sure that it will eventually cause the motor to prematurely wear out.
I would like to disable this feature and cannot find the answer anywhere. Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
I have searched everywhere and can't seem to find any information.
I will try it when I get home tonight. Thanks for the help.
When we picked it up it started missing the next day along with a little blue smoke when starting the next morning. Called dealer and service mgr told me to drive it for 300 miles and see if it improves. Went 300 miles with no improvement I checked oil and had to add 11/2 quarts. Took back to dealer and told them that i blieve we had a gasket or cylinder problem.
They told me that was not the problem and would not check it under warranty because there was no proof. We did a check with them taping oil fill tube shut and told me to bring it in every 500 miles.
Was told after 500 miles and adding another 1 1/2 quarts that Ford engineers says this is common...... I told them that it is not commom that the vehicle ran fine with 3,000 mile oil changes and no disappearing oil problems.....
They told me that they could not help me........ Here we are at 107,000 miles with same blue smoke issue down to 8 mpg again and adding 6 to 7 quarts of oil every 3,000 miles and no sign of oil leak on outside of engine.
Help :sick:
Thanks in advance for any advice or comments.
I am new here. When I step on the gass my truck hesitates then pickes up speed. Just recently my truck has no power and needs to be jummped. I took it in to a shop and they told me I needed to replace my catalytic converters ($2400 total), Fuel system cleaner and replace mass air flow sensor ($493 total). Before I dish out all this money I was wondering if anyone could let me knw if thats what it really is and if there was anything else i could do. :sick:
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
BTW, this was not via the dealer, they wanted a couple hundred more. Used Ford parts, though. Didn't want to mess with thebraking system.
Sometimes you can find factory shop manuals on eBay. And Helm has a shop manual for $180.
Online Repair Manuals
Got worse after a week and the whole front end was shaking when you accelerated.
Took it to get codes checked and it said it was missing on cyl 4.
We replaced all the plugs, boots and coils. Still acting up so we replaced the fuel injectors, fuel filter and one coil pack.
It ran but sounded like it was missing still and would buck a little when driving. Took it to get codes checked again and the mass air flow sensor came up.
We installed the new sensor but it was worse and would not stay on, Turn it on and it would idle low and choppy and die.
Put old sensor back in and no difference.
Disconnected the mass air flow senor wires and the truck ran better. It still was a choppy idle and sounded bad, but didn't die.
We are thinking maybe it is the air flow sensor's connector or cable.
Is there anything else it could be?
We have not had our vehicle for 2 weeks now and keep having to try borrowing my in law's van or get rides as we only have one vehicle and I work overnight and my wife works days. I am really hoping to get it running again this weekend.
Not sure exactly what I should try next.
Would appreciate any help and suggestions.
My new problem is a rough engine feel at idle, the cab actually vibrates at stand-still, and a small amount of smoke in the front end (service engine soon light on). Any ideas?
Did you ever get your problem fixed? Did you ever replace any other coil packs?
It sounded like you did just about everything that could be done except for replacing other coil packs and checking your hoses. I've read several places that any type of vacuum leaks could also cause these types of problems. You should check the hose to your PCV valve, and probably also change the valve (anywhere from $1.50 to $5 so it's an inexpensive replacement). Please post any updates! Thanks and Happy New Year!
Ed
Ed
Any ideas? Would it likely be the switch? I can buy a new switch set off of e-bay with shipping for less than $50, so I might just try that to see if that's the problem, but I thought I'd check to see if anyone else had this issue.
In other news, I had this annoying clang in the driver's door whenever the locks would activate. I couldn't figure out what it was. I finally found directions for removing the door cover and discovered a loose locking rod and a plastic tab. It was connected to the power lock module on one side, but the top was hanging loose and banging the pin connected to the door handle.
Couldn't figure out what they went to. Took apart front passenger's door to see if I could determine where it went based on that set up, but that door didn't have this locking pin. Then it dawned on me that this pin must have been attached to the driver's side key lock. I checked, and sure enough, when I used the key to unlock the door, nothing happened.
I figured out how to get the locking pin and plastic part reattached to the lock cylinder, but there was a clip missing, and I couldn't find it in the door well. Took a trip to the local Ford dealer, showed them the part, and the guy pulls out a plastic box filled with little bitty parts. Turns out I needed a little "c" shaped cam washer or something to slip over the lock cylinder and lock the plastic part in place. Part guy gave it to me for free. It fixed the issue! And I didn't have to spend a dime.
This car has been very good to me, and although it's had issues, I've been able to address them with relatively minimal expense.
Please email me @ rbarbot2@hot(REMOVETHIS)mail.com if you fixed yours.
Let's keep the discussion here so everyone will benefit.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Did you ever get an answer, I can't seem to find any. I've got trim on the top of the doors that is peeling black plastic. Want to replace/repair but don't know how to remove.
wedo43
The bang you hear is probably a heat shield on the exhaust popping
and then and when it does my interior lights stay on. anyone else have this
problem and what should i do, i pulled out the fuse tonight so i dont kill my
battery. i was looking for the door sensors but not sure where they are.
any help would be great
You should also be able to roll the dimmer down until it clicks the interior lights off if I recall my 99 correctly.
Let's remember this key point in the story I'm going to tell you because it's going to get weirder - I live in Anchorage, Alaska.
Now, I got the SUV at the end of July, I had idle issue all the way to October. My mechanic couldn't figure it out. The engine would shake so much and then die every time I am at the red light. It was so hard to drive it. I had the SUV taken in several time to my mechanic to fix it. He replaced the spark plugs (all of them) then he replaced some bad coils (near the spark plugs), then my husband replaced the IAC valve to a new one. Idle problem remained and no improvement. Then it stopped in October for some odd reason.
But a new problem rose in November when I got below 0 degree weather. The SUV would accelerate on its own on the highway and keep at it as if it were on cruise control, but at high speed of its own preference (75 to 80 mph and the limit is 65!) I have to brake to slow it down and hold the brake to get it to stop; it will gear up the engine so much, fighting me. If I put it in neutral, it roars and accelerate like crazy, or in P, it go nuts! I had to turn it off completely. But when I turn it back on, it still accelerates at its own will then finally gives the speed control back to me after 5 to 10 minutes. Scary and crazy! It happens from time to time, not all the time. After a few minutes of this crazy possessed moment, the gas pedal would 'snap' against my feet meaning I got the control back.
I began to notice the pattern here. It will accelerate and stick on its' own speed when the outdoor temperature is 10 degree or under. But over 11 degree, it's fine. It does fine if it's previously warmed in the garage and run perfectly on cold days. However, it had started to warm up lately in past two week and the idle problem happened again.
So; between 11 degree to 40 degree it run just perfectly, but anything under 10 degree, it has "sticky" gas pedal or over 40, it has shaky idle issue.
HELP ME! I love this SUV, but this is driving me NUTS! And my mechanic or even the Ford mechanics could not figure this out!
What is wrong with my SUV? :confuse: :confuse:
I guess I'd start there and see if that helps. If you google "Expedition Door panel removal," you should be able to find directions for getting the door panel off and taking a look at the switches.