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Acura RSX Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • koreangarukoreangaru Member Posts: 2
    hey i have a 2002 rsx auto ... when ever i take off at a reasonable speed or smashing i heard a clicking noise ... i took it to a shop and they got my belt tensioner changed because they said it rattles ... got the sway bar link replaced ... and got the motor mounts changed, but it only improved the clicking noise by a little bit ... does this happen to anyone?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    not me, sorry. Hope you get it fixed! :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • koreangarukoreangaru Member Posts: 2
    hey when i start my car the engine maintance light comes on and off does yours ?
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    hey i have a 2002 rsx auto ... when ever i take off at a reasonable speed or smashing i heard a clicking noise ... i took it to a shop and they got my belt tensioner changed because they said it rattles ... got the sway bar link replaced ... and got the motor mounts changed, but it only improved the clicking noise by a little bit ... does this happen to anyone?

    Where's the clicking sound coming from? engine area? does it change with rpms?

    hey when i start my car the engine maintance light comes on and off does yours ?

    The car goes through a self test when it first starts up. You should only be concerned when the light stays on.
    You will also notice that as your car approaches one of the scheduled maintenance mileages (5k miles, 10k miles etc) the light will stay on longer before going out...eventually staying on constantly. Which tells you that it's time for the scheduled maintenance.
  • left_lane_dvrleft_lane_dvr Member Posts: 3
    Thanks -

    I hit him with everything (TMV, sitting on the lot for 4 months, car purchased at Manheim) The dealer wouldn't budge off of $17.5 for the CPO - I laughed and left.

    Went with the private owner - more miles than I wanted (48K), but it was clean...clean...clean (new brakes and tires). I took it to the dealer for the "150 point" (whatever) inspection and all they found wrong was windshield wiper blades. They performed the 50K service.

    And, I got my new baby sub $15K - I am in love.

    Here is question - at this point, do you think it is worth it to buy the warranty? One of the dealers around here has the 7yr/100K warranty for $1,140.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    with Integras, I would say no. OTOH, at $1140 you wouldn't need many repairs to get your money back these days. if you lose the CVs left and right that would be close to $1000 right there.

    Did your 150 point inspection give you the compression numbers for the cylinders?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • lkbryantlkbryant Member Posts: 1
    I just got an 05 RSX Type S and I am wondering if I should take any precaution from car thefts?
    i heard integras to be one of the most stolen cars and wondering if Acura RSX 05 the same?

    also, anyone know what to do to prevent kids from stealing the plastic ACura sign from the car?

    p.s., the car is my first manual transmission car and I find it to be a bit slow to get it accelerated. Car can accelerate pretty easily once I get it to 3rd gear but, going from 1st to 2nd to 3rd seems to take more time than AUTOMATIC???

    it it just that im not used to the manual transmission right now?

    Going from 1st to 2nd seems to be slow because I have to switch so fast instead of letting me just press on the pedal...

    i try to switch from 1st to 2nd as soon as it hits 3k rpm.... am i doing it too soon?

    when do you guys normally switch gears? at 4k? at 2k?
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    also, anyone know what to do to prevent kids from stealing the plastic ACura sign from the car?

    The only way to keep the losers from stealing a PLASTIC emblem is to remove them .....the emblems, not the losers (reminds me of a Goodfellas scene)

    I had mine stolen while parked at the train station. Got a replacement for about $18
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    at least they're not too expensive to replace! :-/

    Integras had no stock anti-theft, where RSX does, which is one of the reasons Integras got stolen so much. Also, thieves wanted the engines to "improve" their Civics and the like. Isn't it this generation where Honda reversed the spin of the engine, so that it would not swap over? Another impediment to being desirable to thieves.

    as for shifting, in the base car shifting at 3K is short-shifting it. In the S, you have an extra gear, but I would still wind it out to at least 4K before shifting to second if you are trying to make a quick start. Remember, it has a 7000+ redline (hint: you can go even higher than 4K before the first shift if you are trying to be quick).

    Of course, if you are in the break-in period, you may wish to short-shift until you get a few miles on it. I restrained myself at least partially for the first 1000 miles. Just don't lug it in the process.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • left_lane_dvrleft_lane_dvr Member Posts: 3
    compression numbers of the cylinders? - of course not!
  • fulbertfulbert Member Posts: 3
    Talking about a 2002 RSX. From time to time, the car doesn't start--about 3 times a day. Otherwise, it starts up like there were no problems. Could it be a flaky starter or something wrong with the relay? Has anyone heard of this problem? What might the solution be? Two dealerships I've talked to basically say if they can't duplicate the problem in the garage, they can't do anything. I can't believe I'm dead in the water...there must be something else I can do...
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    we're gonna need some hints here. What does it do when it doesn't start?
    (1) Do the dash warning lights come on as usual when you turn the key?
    (2) When the problem occurs, does it just sit there dead, or does it make an audible click? Or do you mean it cranks but won't turn over?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • vickatvickat Member Posts: 43
    My insurance carrier jacked up premiums saying that RSX theftrate's gone up. Answering my call, they told me it's not a car per se that's stolen; it's front seats and wheels!
  • fulbertfulbert Member Posts: 3
    Hi! I appreciate your input..

    a) The dashboard lights do come on when I turn the key
    b) The car cranks…but won’t actually catch. So it makes the cranking sound like it's "trying" to turn over. It will just keep making that sound for as long as I keep holding the key. I will have to turn the key back, and then turn it again to get it to start. Usually (but not always) it will start the second time.
    c) There are times when the car takes a couple seconds longer to start (like it’s hesitating) and other times when it starts instantly.

    It has behaved this way since the day I bought it brand new. It is a completely random occurence. Thanks for your help!
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    well then, it's either got no spark or no fuel when it won't start. And no, this has nothing to do with a bad starter, unless you hear it turn really really slow, slower than it normally does?

    After that, my bet would be on fuel, since primary ignition is so diversified these days with coil-on-plug that it is unlikely to get four cylinders ALL of which aren't firing.

    It is just possible you are flooding it somehow, suggested by the times it takes longer to start - make sure you follow the manual's instructions to start it (don't press the gas pedal when doing so). It is also possible the engine is fuel-starved at those times - you can have the dealer check the fuel pump for consistent output PSI at the appropriate spec.

    Lastly, it is possible that you have a computer fault, like a sensor doing something bad. I assume you have had them plug in to check if there are any codes stored?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • fulbertfulbert Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the ideas.

    I actually don't step on the gas pedal when starting the car--I just turn the ignition key on, and, nowadays, hope the engine starts.

    Regarding the possible computer fault, they've already plugged in to check and they found nothing.
  • oldmikeoldmike Member Posts: 5
    I am considering buying a 02 RSX that has a salvage title to rebuild. I buy wrecks all the time so I am experienced at this, but haven't owned a Honda product since 1979 Accord. Price is about $5000 with most repairs done, just needs finish work. Auto, 33K miles. What are opinions on this project?
    Thanks
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Wow. Will it run straight when all the repairs are done?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • oldmikeoldmike Member Posts: 5
    Now looks like price will be more like $6500. Actually all body work is done and mechanically it is fine, will just need paint on back half. It had a rear clip put on by a professional body shop. Does it sound like a good deal? Do Honda dealers work on RSX's? Can they get parts?
    Thanks
    Mike
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I don't think they are supposed to, but I think some do anyway. My sister takes hers to the local Honda dealer, because the Acura dealer is a lot further away. Of course, that has been for routine maintenance, nothing on the scale of what you need there.

    Isn't it tough to have a fairly new car to sell with a salvaged title? My understanding is that most finance companies won't offer loans on a salvage? Which would limit the number of potential buyers quite a bit, wouldn't it?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • oldmikeoldmike Member Posts: 5
    I was thinking along the lines of what your sister gets done. The closest Acura dealer to me is 2 hrs away. I didn't mean I'd ask them to fix this salvage car. I do most of the work myself, and have a couple of body shops that work with me doing the big stuff I can't do (frame pulling and finish painting). There is a lot of misinformation out there on salvage cars. Just three days ago I sold a 2000 Mustang to my neighbors WITHOUT TRYING! They had been bugging me to get it finished and sell it to them for 3 weeks. If you handle it properly, rebuilt title cars can be sold OK. I have a Carfax on each car, pictures of damage before repair, tell exactly what was done, and have them take it to anyone they want and get 2nd opinions. I try to drive the cars for a few months after repair, so I can give personal info on reliability. I just do 2-3 a year as a hobby and to pick up a little cash. My neighbors told their Federal Credit Union it was a rebuilt title and their insurance company, and both were OK with it.
    Mike
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    cool!

    The base RSX has a lot in common with the Civic SI, so Honda dealers will actually stock most of the maintenance parts, and do have access to part numbers and the like for things they need to order on an Acura.

    So, I'm curious - don't say if you don't want to, by all means - what price you might ask for this car when you sell it, given that you are into it for about $6500.

    Obviously one without the salvage history would sell for mid-teens pretty easy.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • oldmikeoldmike Member Posts: 5
    What all does it have in common with Civic SI? Engine & tranny? Probably a lot of little parts under hood and maybe some inside trim and fasteners? I use a Mitchell Collision Repair Guide to get part numbers, so as long as Honda can order them I'll be OK. Course I try to get all my parts from salvage yards, but the RSX is so rare, that my local yards probably won't even have one.

    Well, if I start at $6500, I will have to have it painted (maybe all over), and the interior has been stripped out for state inspectors, so I have to reassemble that. The interior is all there, just loose in car. Then there always seems to be a few little things you don't count on. Let's say I have $7200 plus my labor on interior. My rule of thumb is I always try to get it finished and on the road for 50-60% of NADA retail. Then I try to sell for 75% max. The lower it is, the quicker I sell it. If I make $1000-1500 on a car, I am satisfied because I love doing it. So maybe $8500-10000. How does that sound?
    Mike
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    yeah, that's about what I would have guessed. Cool.

    I was referring to mostly mechanical stuff, that is in common with the Civic SI, including most engine parts. The transmission is different from the SI's, that is true. Common maintenance parts are shared by both though, in many cases, at least according to my sister's Honda dealer. I haven't done the checking myself, so I can't say for sure.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • dhanksdhanks Member Posts: 2
    I just put 3/4ths of a can of 4cylender engine restore Oil treatment into my 2002 RSX type S and the check engine light is on. This leads me to believe that I have a bit to much oil in the car and the oil pressure is not matching the spec of the computer. I just had an oil change about 500 miles ago. How much damage am I doing to the car? Should I get the oil swapped out immediately or am I OK?
  • dhanksdhanks Member Posts: 2
    Nevermind.... After 50 miles the check engine light is off. Car feels a bit sluggish though.....
  • dsrsxdsrsx Member Posts: 2
    I just bought my first sporty car the Type-S, and i was wondering if its normal to cruise at such high rpms. for example, crusing at 30mph on 3rd reaches 3000rpms. cruising at 80mph on 6th reaches 4000 rpms. is this normal?

    im also have crunching problems as mentioned a couple post before when going from 1st to 2nd.
  • mikes2mikes2 Member Posts: 43
    Hi everyone, my 2002 RSX Type S is about to turn 3 and come to the end of part of it's warranty. Knock on wood, everything with it has been just fine so far. (The only complaint I have is the rear defroster is pretty weak for our sometimes brutal Canadian winters, but that's a design flaw, not a malfunction (got it tested)). Otherwise, I'm just as thrilled with it as the day I got it.

    The reason for this posting is twofold:

    1. Is there anything I should specifically ask the dealer to inspect, replace, etc. while the 3 year warranty is still in force?

    2. There's a really good private mechanic here in town, that basically works on just Hondas - they're his specialty. I used him with my Civic and was very happy. Do people think he's up to maintaining, and if necessary, repairing a Type-S? Any thoughts, experience using private mechanics on your own Type S much appreciated!!

    Thanks,

    Mike
  • beowulf7beowulf7 Member Posts: 290
    Thanks, gentlemen. I got back about 2 weeks ago and had a blast. My friend who kept my car turned on my car and ran the engine for about 10 min. halfway through my trip. Thus, the car sat for 2 weeks, then he ran the engine, and then it sat for another 2 weeks or so.

    When I picked up my car, the only "damage" I noticed was the 1/4" inch of pollen and dust on my car. LOL When I pulled out of his condo development and went on the highway, I noticed a very slight shake at > 60 MPH, but that seemed to disappear by the 2nd time I drove my car on the highway (the next day).

    BTW, my car recently turned 3 and I now have 30 kmi. on it. Everything seems to be working well (knock on wood). But I'm due for the 30 kmi. check. Acura wants to charge me $300 + tax for what amounts to an oil change, tire rotation, brake pad inspection and fluid replacement, and air cleaner replacement, and check/adjust various fluid levels. That seems awfully expensive. I made an appointment with Firestone to get their estimate. If they're charging less than half of what Acura wants to, I think I'll go with Firestone. What do you guys think?
  • beowulf7beowulf7 Member Posts: 290
    Wow, I thought my Acura dealer was ripping me off by asking for $300 + tax for the 30 kmi. checkup. Then I read a post of someone saying he was quoted $450 and $380 by a couple Acura dealers!

    I plan to visit Firestone sometime this week to get an estimate and will report back here.
  • beowulf7beowulf7 Member Posts: 290
    Hey, I didn't know that Canada Acura dealers only provide a 3-year warranty. Here in the US, it's 4 years. Anyway, with regard to your 2 questions:

    1.) Wouldn't your Acura dealer charge you $ if you want them to perform an inspection? How many miles (or km) do you have on it? If it's been a while since your last major inspection, you might want to have one done.

    2.) Ask your local mechanic if he has any experience working on Acuras, and specifically, RSXs. I've read that many people who are familiar with Hondas can work on Acuras without much difficulty, esp, the Civic and RSX.

    Good luck!
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    my dealer would want $450 for that service, if I followed any of their money-sucking recommendations. They would also do about 100 "manufacturer-recommended maintenance items" that aren't anywhere in the owner's manual I have.
    Maybe I got a bad edition.

    It's a fight every time I go in there, to just get the things done that are in the book. And if my car weren't under warranty, I am sure I would never darken their doorstep. I feel for dealers - cars' maintenance needs in general have decreased to almost nil in the last decade. But that doesn't mean they should try and jack up my servicing costs with bogus stuff.

    I figure at 30K I will pay them to do the oil change/tire rotation ($65), change the air filters (underhood and cabin) myself, and be done with it. I am going to let them do a "minor service" next month though, for the 20K interval. That will be $135, and won't include much more than the oil and tires and the inspections.

    After reading the book and comparing it to the list of what my dealer does for a "major maintenance", I have concluded that my car will never require such a service. :-/

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    my car recently turned 3 and I now have 30 kmi. on it. Everything seems to be working well (knock on wood). But I'm due for the 30 kmi. check. Acura wants to charge me $300 + tax for what amounts to an oil change, tire rotation, brake pad inspection and fluid replacement, and air cleaner replacement, and check/adjust various fluid levels. That seems awfully expensive. I made an appointment with Firestone to get their estimate. If they're charging less than half of what Acura wants to, I think I'll go with Firestone. What do you guys think?

    Going somewhere else may void the warranty. I know it's not a big deal to do your oil yourself (keep receipts), but all of the other things may need to be done by an Acura dealer to keep the warranty applicable.
  • beowulf7beowulf7 Member Posts: 290
    Thanks for the quick response, gentlemen. nippononly, it seems like even $135 is pretty expensive for an oil change and tire rotation. My local Firestone mechanic can do it for $40, which includes some kind of inspection.

    nitromax, if an owner chooses to do the work himself, are you saying that he might endanger his car's warranty to be voided? What if he kept the receipts of the oil cans and air filter that he bought but just performed the labor himself? I consider going to a non-Acura mechanic in the same manner, so I don't see why/how the warranty could be voided. :confuse: I hope Acura doesn't expect us to be locked into their super-expensive service for all "major" services. :(
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    if an owner chooses to do the work himself, are you saying that he might endanger his car's warranty to be voided? What if he kept the receipts of the oil cans and air filter that he bought but just performed the labor himself? I consider going to a non-Acura mechanic in the same manner, so I don't see why/how the warranty could be voided.

    Hold onto the receipts for proof. They may or may not void the warranty, but if you have the receipts , then you should be fine. I just put the receipts right into the manual binder...even record the mileage on the receipt.

    I meant for the other services that they'll be doing for your car. (rotating tires, checking fluids, lube points) those may be tougher to prove that they were done by you if there was an isssue...I repeat,IF there was an issue.

    I only bring mine in for the major checkpoints now. 50,000, 75,000.....I'm approaching 60,000 and I need to check to see what the schedule calls for. I use a K&N air filter and change my oil myself.....all the rest is just regular maintenance in my eyes, but I don't know how Acura would view it if there was a major problem.

    Say for instance your steering locked up while going around a corner and you hit a tree. Your service records show that you never took it in for it's scheduled lube maintenance but instead opted to do it yourself. They may try to pin it on you for being at fault because there's no way to tell if you did it the proper way.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    there are, like, 50 inspections that go with the tire rotation and oil change, which are supposed to justify the extra $70. The manual does call for most of these inspections at 20K, so I figure $135 is manageable, since it is the first time I have ever done anything more than the oil and tires on this car. I am OK spending $200 or so per year on maintenance for the first three years. Like I said, the 30K will be $65 once again, as I will change the filters myself. The next time it gets a more major service will be much closer to the 50K-mile mark: I figure I will spring for one really thorough servicing and inspection right before it goes out of warranty.

    Thank goodness the cost and hassle of car maintenance decreases with every decade that goes by!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • beowulf7beowulf7 Member Posts: 290
    Hey gentlemen, thanks for the replies. I just went to a mechanic (not Acura) to get my 30 kmi. service done. Among various things, they performed an oil change, rotated the tires, balanced the wheels, conducted an inspection, and cleaned out the fuel system. They also replaced the engine air filter and cabin air filter. It came out to about $250.

    I will do another oil change at 35 kmi. and assuming I keep my miles down, I plan to do a whole lot at 40 kmi., as I approach 4 years (i.e. warranty expires). This includes new suspension, tires, and wheels. I'd also like to get an afternarket headunit (that plays MP3s!!). I know I'm getting ahead of myself, though. :blush:
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    don't get ahead of yourself or anything! LOL :P

    I only WISH I had ever had a car where the warranty expired due to years rather than miles. Actually, my current car is the closest I have ever gotten, as my commute has decreased to almost nothing. I am at 16 months and 21K miles, so it will probably take me more than three years to run out the mileage limit on the warranty.

    The first time I ever spend serious money on a routine service will be at 49,900 miles! :-)
    I will get everything checked just before the warranty gives out.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • oxford18583oxford18583 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a new Acura Rsx and i noticed that on the warranty papers, it has scheduled oil changes every 10,000 miles. So does that mean I don't have to get an oil change every 3k miles, which is all i heard? Any information would be helpful, thank you.
  • njpunk24njpunk24 Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 2004 RSX with 22,000 miles on it. I just had it in to the Acura dealer to get somethings checked out. One of those things was a rattle in the sunroof when tilted. They SAID they fixed something on it and reassembled. Though, I still hear rattling. I also wanted them to check the belts and what not since I was having squealing on startups in the morning every now and then. They said nothing was wrong there and this was NORMAL and WOULD HAPPEN. Uh? My car is just over a year old and only has 22,000 miles on it and this is normal? Um? It's quite embarrassing to drive down the street with this squealing in the morning in a 2004 Acura. Anyone have any input on these things? Others having squeals on startup? Anyone told the same thing, that this was NORMAL? Anyone have the dealer actually fix this? Please let me know. Thanks!
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    Do you let it warm up for a minute or so in the morning? Is the AC on when you first start it up? Anything that puts extra stress on the fan belt will cause it to slip.

    Does it keep doing it throughout the day during start ups or only on the initial morning start up?

    Remember that the belt is made of rubber and will warm up and soften after running for a little while. If you start your car up first thing in the morning and immediately take off down the street, the belt will most likely slip some due to it being cold and hard still.

    Mine has never squealed but I let the engine warm up for 30 seconds or so without revving the engine much...bad for internals...let the oil spread around first.
    Approaching 4 years and 60,000 miles
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I believe that oil change interval is one of those PR things to let them advertise the car as low maintenance, but you will get 50 different stories on oil changing.

    Personally, I change it every 5000 miles, and that is only because I commute in it, and I have a short commute. If I had a longer commute without a lot of stop and go, I might go to 7500-mile intervals. I discarded 3000-mile intervals 15 years ago, and have never had a problem.

    And then, of course, there is a lot of truth in the old adage that frequent oil changing is the cheapest insurance you can take out on your engine. Me, I don't like the thought of recycling all that oil before it is really necessary.

    njpunk: just for reference, my car is as old as yours and has the same miles, and I never get squealing at any startup, cold or otherwise. If you do any under-the-hood stuff yourself, make sure you are not spilling anything on the drive belt. Beyond that, it could be a belt tensioner going bad early, in addition to the obvious likelihood that there is a problem with a loose or worn belt. I would leave it with them overnight and ask them to drive it around in the morning when it is stone cold. They can better diagnose it that way.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • njpunk24njpunk24 Member Posts: 2
    You'd hope the dealer would pick up on something like a tensioner going bad or a bad belt or a loose one. At least I'd hope! I mean, they told me it's probably just morning dew. As for any squealing any other times, usually not, though I've started it after work recently (so 8 hours of sitting) and it had rained that day, started it up... Squealing for a bit... Also, the squealing starts instantly upon startup. So I guess I could let it warm up, but the annoying squealing has already started. No AC, no anything on. I've always been one to turn everything off before turning off the ignition. I hate when I ride with other people and they leave everything on and turn off the car! I may just bring it back there if this continues. Ugh. I hate dealers. You'd assume they'd know what they were doing. Guess not. Well, if anything happends, I have the documentation that I had it in there for this problem. UGH!

    Any more feedback is welcome!

    Thanks Nitro and Nippononly!
  • bobbidbobbid Member Posts: 24
    Any one elses drivers seat seem to "rock" back and forth slightly? mine seems to back and bottom, slighty when braking , feels loose. its very annoying.... (got about 1kmi on it). :sick:
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    yeah, mine just developed this annoying trait at around 20K mi. It is due for a service in the next couple of weeks anyway, so I am going to mention it and have them take a look.

    I can't decide if its the whole seat rocking back and forth, or just the back rocking free of the base slightly.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • bobbidbobbid Member Posts: 24
    i will go to the dealer this coming saturday to complain about it. regarding which is rocking, i think its back rocking slightly from the base. :(
  • finch06xfinch06x Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a used 2002 RSX. It has a 5 year warranty and drives great, but they forgot to get me the manual. Today a light came on in my car. The light is in between the oil light and the battery light. It lights up orange and kinda looks like an engine part. I'm kinda worried about this and dont wanna let loose on mycar til i know what it means. Does anyone here know?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I haven't checked my car yet, but that sure sounds like the check engine light. Make sure your gas cap is tight, and then head over to the dealer to get it checked, since you have the warranty you might as well use it!

    If the gas cap isn't properly tightened, tighten it until you hear several clicks, then run around in the car for a few days. The light will go off by itself if that was all it was, but it takes a few cycles of starting and stopping the engine.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • jstacyjstacy Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 RSX with about 24K on it. Late last month my air conditioner went out. Thinking it was manufacturer defect I took it to the dealer since it's still under warranty. Unfortunately I walked away $500 poorer because they said the cause of the problem was that a rock came through the grill and cracked the compressor.

    Has anyone heard of this happening? I had it fixed, but feel like I might have gotten a fast one pulled on me and am a little annoyed by it all.

    Also, since having the new compressor put in, I'm hearing an intermittent squealing sound every time I drive. On top of that, during a recent road trip, the vents started spewing out water vapor! (It looked like what you would see coming out of a humidifier.)

    I'm planning on calling my dealership about all this, but wanted to go in with some knowledge about the problem.
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    yes, it's a known issue with these cars. The condensor is exposed down at the front end of the car.
    The Honda Odyssey is having the same problems.
    Sounds like the Honda/Acura engineers should get outside in the real world more and stop spending so much time behind the computer screen.

    A fix for this is mounting a screen in your lower grill to keep the rocks out. I have done this using some aluminum gutter guard purchased at Lowes/Home Depot.

    There is also an aftermarket device that can be mounted in the same place, but it costs quite a bit more than the gutter guard that I used.

    As far as the squealing and water problem goes...definately take it in to have it looked at. But no, they probably weren't taking you for a ride.

    good luck
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