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Acura RSX Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • joeluc13joeluc13 Member Posts: 50
    Hmm... sounds like a bad torque converter, but not sure. Better have a dealer mechanic look into it. But since you mentioned that it only happens when you initially start the car in the mornings, I'm worried that they might give you the "We can't duplicate the problem" line and it sucks when that happens.
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    That is probably just the transmission shifting into gear and the feeling you are getting is the torque twist on the tranny mounts. Hence, shift to drive and it jerks one way, shift into park and it shifts the other direction.
  • boboandtotoboboandtoto Member Posts: 16
    yeah, thats the jerking motion i feel...but is it normal??? :confuse: also, i am scheduled for an oil change in a couple of weeks...how should i explain the problem...that the torque converter is grinding?...thanks...
  • joeluc13joeluc13 Member Posts: 50
    Well, just tell them what you have been experiencing. You're not going to be penalized anyway. They should be able to come up with a better answer for your car's shifting behavior.
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    If it's just a jerking when you put it in gear then it's normal. Every car does it (correction, every automatic does it)

    Torque convereter grinding? Are you hearing a grinding noise?
  • bobbidbobbid Member Posts: 24
    For Pop, Knock noise on Bumps.
    For RSX '05
    I don't know how to attached a file but I have an electronic copy of it.
  • heejomanheejoman Member Posts: 33
    I got a RSX as a loaner couple times. I like them a lot. One drove fine. However, one of them had a engine noise that bothered me.

    It created a whirling noise when it reached above 60 mph.

    It's hard to describe but it's like saying "woe woe woe woe . . " semi slowly at a pitch of Curlee in 3 Stooges but in monotone).

    I drove above 60 mph then it got worse. Drove below 60 and it went away. Reached 60 and it did it again. I drove it for 3 days and it did the same thing everytime.

    It wasn't the wind or the tire.

    I was tempted to tell the dealer about it but I was afraid they would blame me or something.

    No Honda/Acura cars I've driven make that sound. Any ideas?

    I'm afraid if I buy an RSX and it will make that same sound. Thanks.

    P.S. Didn't had a clicking sound but for those who do, I thought it's the CV joint and not the transmission problem???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You should never post your e-mail in a public forum. Spiders will pick it up and spam you to death. I'd recommend you delete your post or have me do it and then privately e-mail the person you are trying to contact. Let me know.

    MrShiftright
    Host
  • rsx_varsx_va Member Posts: 33
    It's hard to diagnose without hearing the noise in person, but I don't think this is a common problem. Speed-related noises usually are tires/bearings/wind/transmission, not engine. If it was the engine you'd probably also hear it at lower speeds with the same RPMs.

    If you're interested in an RSX, then make sure you get a test drive in the one you plan to buy and have a chance to drive it at highway speeds.
  • mt6303mt6303 Member Posts: 1
    What is the popping sound like??? I have a brand new 2005 RSX, too. It sounds like you have the simular situation as mine. When I turn on the key to start the car, it will have the really short sparks noise came up. Sometimes, the noise comes up but the engine doesn't start. Sometimes, I have to restart my car twice for the engine to be turned on. I took my car to the dealer for the fifth time and they still don't know what cause the problem.
  • hakunamatatahakunamatata Member Posts: 6
    I just bought it last month, about 10,000 miles on it. Loving the drive and the MPG so far. However, there is this problem with the 3rd gear. At times, the shifter locks up going from 2nd into the 3rd gear. It just goes half way and doesn't latch on. So when I release the clutch and hit gas, it either grinds or just revs in neutral. Should I get it checked? Can anything actually be done about it?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    love that handle, by the way! That sounds like a bad synchro, maybe. You should have it checked.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • mjrdilemmamjrdilemma Member Posts: 1
    need to replace a bulb in my driver side headlight and removed the only 2 screws I can see and barely illustrated in my manual and removed the wire from the back of the housing but the housing still doesn't want to move. Any suggestions before I take a hammer to it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • saxjonzsaxjonz Member Posts: 1
    you should never have a problem if you push the clutch all the way to the floor when you shift. That problem has only happened to me a few times and only when I don't disengage the clutch all the way. My civic, my s2000 a couple of times but only, like I said, when you do not disengage the clutch all the way.
  • hakunamatatahakunamatata Member Posts: 6
    I don't know, I think I push the clutch all the way but I may be mistaken. The last few days I have tried making my action a little slower, by like a split second. That has definitely helped. Nothing apparant to anybody, just a smoother shift from 2nd to 3rd. Now it may actually be making my timing with the clutch better but whatever it is, is working for me.
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    Why are you taking the housing out to replace the bulb?

    The bulb pops out of the back of the housing after releasing a clamp mechanism. The hardest part is contorting your hand to fit down there. I've replaced both headlights by now and from what I remember, the passenger side is the hardest.

    The whole process should only take about 10 minutes.
  • rsx_varsx_va Member Posts: 33
    The 2nd and 3rd gear stiffness in the RSX 6-speed trans seems to be well documented -- I even found a petition site. I'm not sure pushing the clutch deeper helps, but since I haven't tried that yet, I'm willing to give it a go. I've been driving Honda manual transmissions for about 19 years now so I think I know how to shift, but on the other hand, we do develop bad habits while driving, so perhaps I've become accustomed to a more forgiving setup. Basically it's not a huge issue -- just making the first few shifts in a slower, more deliberate way avoids the grind.
  • joeluc13joeluc13 Member Posts: 50
    I have an 05 RSX Type S and I do have the 2nd gear grinding once in a while. It's not actually the gear grinding, but it's the synchros that grind. Hondas/Acuras are known to have a slow synchro and I guess it became a real issue ever since they began making cars with 6-speed transmissions. I remember this problem first came out on the first year of the Honda S2000 here in the U.S. I agree when you said that we do develop some bad driving habits at times and it could be a good contributor to the problem. I've been driving manual transmission cars for over 10 years but I am still prone to small mistakes from time to time. I just find it hard to believe, for Honda, that after years of building 6-speed transmissions, the problem is still there. It could be that the oil we use here in the U.S. is an another contributor to the grinding problem. I've heard some people trying out a different brand or type of oil and have made the grinding synchro problem disappear. This is what I'm looking forward to do when my maintenance service is due. I'll try to use synthetic oil and see if it does make a difference. But overall, I do love the car! :)
  • dc10driverdc10driver Member Posts: 15
    I've had my '06 RSX now about a month and am noticing the popping sound coming from the passenger side rear. It's not all the time. My wife wants to take it to the dealer but it sounds to me that they're going to replace a strut or something and the noise will still be there. Did you ever figure what the noise was on your car??
  • joeluc13joeluc13 Member Posts: 50
    That is the classic front strut clunking noise that the 05 and 06 RSX models have been experiencing. It is not a safety issue, but it is quite annoying. This clunking noise is only noticeable at speeds within 20 mph or lower during turning. What happens it that the springs pop out of place when it moves during turns. I've heard people taking it back to the dealers to have a set of MDX silencer tubes installed on both front struts. It is said to be a permanent fix. But when the problem was detetected earlier by RSX owners, they ended up making multiple visits because the service people did nothing but lube the springs. It resulted in a louder clunking sound after a week or so. Since there is no TSB for this problem, the MDX silencer tubes seem to be the only best solution. My 05 RSX-S started clunking on the passenger side strut about a month ago but I'm not really bothered by it since it is really covered by warranty no matter what happens. Besides, I might go for aftermarket suspension later on because I want to drop it an inch or so. Mugen SS is what I have in mind. It is still advisable to have it fixed since the reason you bought a new car is to be free of mechnical problems. But since it is not a safety issue, and I am thinking of upgrading the suspension anyway, I am somehow a little more forgiving about this issue. My 97 Civic have had an even louder squeeking noise ever since I lowered the suspension and I have been driving it like that for 5 years. I guess it's also another reason why I'm not bothered by it. Just ask the dealer about the MDX silencer tubes and it should be a permanent fix for that problem. :)
  • dc10driverdc10driver Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for the info. I knew there was an issue with the pop before I bought the car. I figured the '06 might not be affected, but I was wrong. It doesn't bother me too much, but it's true, it is a new car and should be without defects. The wife getting on my [non-permissible content removed] and telling me that it's something loose that the dealer car tighten is starting to be a daily ritual. Still have to go back to the dealer to get my mud flaps and wheel locks, so I'll probally inform them of the fix. I wonder if they're aware of the tubes and if they pick up the tab for them. Again, thanks for the info.
  • joeluc13joeluc13 Member Posts: 50
    No problem. Although useing the MDX silencer tubes as a permanent fix was just a fix done by some Acura dealer after numerous tries of fixing one 05/06 RSX owner, it is really the standard fix for the problem. But since it was done by an Acura dealer, it should still be covered by warranty if anything bad happens later if the tubes were indeed installed on your RSX's front struts. So far, I have never heard any RSX owner with MDX silencer tubes installed on thier cars complain of any clunking noise. I guess it is the permanent fix for this problem.
  • blueeyez1616blueeyez1616 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a new 2006 rsx 2 months ago. It has been in the shop 3 times in the last 2 months. I have driven the loaner TL (that i adore, if i could afford it) for more than i've driven my rsx. The strut mounts on my car on both sides have been replaced twice for no reason at all. The clicking noise does NOT go away no matter what the dealership says they can do. They atleast have to make an attempt so that the owner thinks that its not their fault and they didnt sell u a defective car. I bought this RSX researching it thoroughly. Unfortunately, I didnt research enough. I was told the problem is Acura Corps. issue and that the problem will be fixed in 30-90 days. The problem? the defect has been a problem since late 2005 rsx models. And they still havent gotten a fix for it that Acura will cover. I mentioned putting MDX silencer tubes on the struts and/or putting an aftermarket strut package on it, but to my dismay, they wont budge and Im deff. not paying for it. So in the end.... I think Acura makes crappy cars, sell them when they know they have issues, and then throw their hands in the air and go we cant help you when u need it. Customer Satisfaction my butt. I am now going to the lemon law to get help. I had a 99 jeep before that never had a problem, and I believe im going back to Jeep because I know i can trust the company and they will make me happy when i have a problem. P.S. - Also, there is a defect in the rear of all ACURA cars.... when u are in park or stopped... turn the wheel... in the back end of all the cars, it makes a nasty grinding noise... Acura claims that they are unable at this time to fix it, its permanent, deal with it. I've raised enough hell after these issues and caused a lot of anxiety for myself, waisted gas going back and forth from the dealer, and lost my mind trying to get one person to help me instead of 8 people with excuses. Good luck, cause its not gonna get fixed ever! :confuse: atleast thats what the service manager told me.... :mad: :mad:
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    P.S. - Also, there is a defect in the rear of all ACURA cars.... when u are in park or stopped... turn the wheel... in the back end of all the cars, it makes a nasty grinding noise... Acura claims that they are unable at this time to fix it, its permanent, deal with it.

    huh?
    In the back end of the car? Can you explain this a little clearer please?
  • jbrunetjbrunet Member Posts: 1
    In June of this year I had a very low speed accident where I rear-ended the person in from of me with my brand new 2005 RSX. I was probably going about 20 kms/hr. Immediately upon impact as the airbag went off, a fire erupted from under my hood and crept up over the car. Out of shock and the impact of the air bag I passed out and was fortunately rescued from my burning vehicle by the person behind me.

    The car erupted into flames and was completely gutted and destroyed in under 5 minutes. The fire fighters said they had never seen anything like it. I contacted Honda Canada to let them know about this potential flaw and their attitude was basically like they couldn't care less.

    Has anyone else heard of this happening from the front end of the vehicle on a low speed impact? I would never touch an Acura again at this pont.

    JB
  • dc10driverdc10driver Member Posts: 15
    I just got back from the dealer and we discussed the strut problem. They told me the fix that we all know...some moly grease that should solve the problem. I showed the service department the information on the MDX tubes but they said without a tsb from Acura they couldn't fix it that way.
    In the end I decieded not to have them do anything to the car at this time. I don't need the whole front end apart for a tempory fix. One service manager said that the noise would get louder if it wasn't fixed now. Another didn't agree with that. I called Acura HQ and they said they weren't aware of this type of problem.
    I wonder if enough people complained and mentioned that we want another type of fix, they would take action.
    When I called the guy wanted my VIN # which I didn't have in front of me at the time. I have it now and will make another call.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you know a car accident is an incredibly complex set of circumstances and forces---given enough accidents, just about anything could happen once. I could see a fuel line breaking off and starting a fire, sure. It's weird but it's possible. You just don't know WHAT is going to happen. You can only plan for so much.

    I'm rather shocked at Honda's response though. If this happened in Sweden or Germany they would probably have an investigative team out there from the factory.
  • dc10driverdc10driver Member Posts: 15
    I called Acura to officially log the strut problem using my vin #. "when a fix comes out you'll be notified".
    I think anyone with the slightest pop or noise from the struts has to call Acura in addition to the dealer in order to get some action. A brand new car and they want to temporarily fix the problem with some grease. Not what I expected from Acura!!
  • girliegirlie Member Posts: 1
    I had a strut assembly replaced at 1300 miles on my new 2006 rsx type-s, AND today when parking, my gearshift locked up and i couldnt get the car into neutral or reverse when i was parking it. i finally got it released by playing around with it, but now, with the car running but idle, i cant shift into 5th or 6th gear. anyone have THAT problem before?

    what is the call number for Acura Corp in the US. i definitely want to call. i bought acura because it was supposedly problem free. i am NOT happy. never again!!!
  • dc10driverdc10driver Member Posts: 15
    The number I used off the Acura website is:

    1 800 382 2238
    Monday-Friday
    They'll ask you for your VIN #

    I asked another RSX driver today, if they had the strut problem and they didn't. It was an '04 though, and the problem didn't start until '05 with the increased HP.(at least that's what I was told)
  • boboandtotoboboandtoto Member Posts: 16
    hi,

    i was wondering if anyone has tried "spirited" driving as my dealership puts it...has anyone taken the rpm's to the redline and beyond? what happens at the point? does it harm the engine? if so, why would they allow it to go into the redline? how long can we stay there? any info on the mechanics of the redline would be appreciated...(i just found out that the rsx does NOT shift up automatically when it reaches the redline, so i was just curious as what the mechanics associated with it are)... :confuse:
    thanks in advance...
  • joeluc13joeluc13 Member Posts: 50
    Hmm... As far as I know, it is dangerous to rev the engine beyond redline. The term "spirited driving" technically means driving the car to it's maximum potential, not blow the engine up. If you have an automatic transmission, it shifts up automatically, but I don't know if it does upshift automitally on manual mode. But for manual transmissions, the driver has the capability maximizing the car's power band. However, if the tachometer reaches the redline, the engine will cut in and out, signaling the driver to shift to the next higher gear. This is the rev limiter at work. It is a safety feature that prevents the car from staying at the redline. However, if you are downshifting, the rev limiter would not work. This means that if you mis-shift from 6th to 2nd instead of 6th to 4th at high speeds, the engine would break because the rev limiter doesn't work in this situation. I know someone who mis-shifted and all his gauge lights went on, the car stalled, and the car could no longer run. Hence, just keep it below reline and you'll enjoy your car longer. :)
  • boboandtotoboboandtoto Member Posts: 16
    interesting...well, i just read on edmunds.com that the 2002 auto rsx doesn't upshift automatically...i mean they must have found that out by actually taking it beyond the redline, right?...also, since they didn't recommend against it, but rather praised the rsx for not upshifting automatically, i would assume that the car can actually handle being above the redline...its just that when i'm on the highway, taking the car above the redline even for a second or two can make a world of difference when u r trying to out run a potential rival...(or a cop...hehe... :shades: )...anyways, thanks for the reply...i guess i'll just have to live with the fact that i can't enjoy the rsx like the manual... :cry:
  • blueeyez1616blueeyez1616 Member Posts: 2
    Last Friday I spoke with a representative from Acura Corp. about the strut noise. According to them.... ur gonna laugh at this: "this is a normal characteristic of the car, and at this time there is no repair, but they will notify me within 30-90 days for a resolution". A friend of mine has a late model rsx 2005 who has had the same problem for over a year, and has complained since the second day of owning the car. Now, unless im stupid, thats over 365 days and no resolution!!!! I got into a major screaming match with the "case manager" and asked to speak to a higher manager for an answer.... no luck, i called back 5 times too! So, I called the original manager back, and i told him this was b.s. - i bought the car without any noises, so therefore the noise is not a "normal characteristic" of the car and I didnt buy it like that. I have been told they wont do anything right now for me, and that the worse thing u can do is to put grease on the strut mounts, it makes the noise LOUDER! so therefore, i have promptly filed a lemon law suit. I've had enough of this b.s. and the "customer satisfaction" claim that Acura has. They won't do anything, so therefore, we're doing the LEMON LAW! on a 2006 RSX, thats sad!!! :mad:
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Check the details of the Lemon laws in your state. Here in Florida, it would have to be something that is "a substantial defect or condition is a problem that substantially impairs the use, value, or safety of the vehicle"

    I haven't been following your strut mount noise problem, but I've gotta believe the noise would have to be pretty loud to be a substantial defect. Good luck.
  • dc10driverdc10driver Member Posts: 15
    Is there any way to start our own Discussion Topic about the problem so all relative posts are in one place. ie: Acura RSX Strut Problems.... I think anyone wanting to buy an '06 RSX would benefit from reading posts from people who are being let down by Acura. Unless Acura comes up with a fix for the problem, I wouldn't recommend this car.
  • dc10driverdc10driver Member Posts: 15
    http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=278725
    I think Acura is irresponsible concerning this issur!!
  • rsx_varsx_va Member Posts: 33
    Just curious, how many are experiencing this alleged RSX strut issue? So far we've heard from one person. I'm not experiencing it, but I have an '03.
  • rsx_varsx_va Member Posts: 33
    5th and 6th are difficult to hit in the RSX-S while sitting stopped at idle -- I think that's because the reverse lockout opens up when the car stops, so it's hard to line up just right with the 5th-6th gate. I don't consider this a defect as long as I can shift into 5th/6th while moving at speed, which I have no problem with.
  • rsx_varsx_va Member Posts: 33
    First of all, turning the wheel while stopped isn't such a hot idea, because it flat-spots the tires and puts a strain on the power steering system. I'd suspect the "grind" you're hearing is the power steering struggling under the load of trying to turn the wheels of a stationary car. Most PS systems will groan a bit if you attempt this.
  • boboandtotoboboandtoto Member Posts: 16
    hi,
    i always was wondering about this: my car usually is outside in the cold during the night...and i usually start it for about 10 minutes to warm up the engine before i take off...the thing i was wondering was if it puts an exceptional load on the engine if we turn the heater on while the car is warming up? i mean the indicator on the left side gauge is still below minimum at this point...just wanted any inputs...i would like to get into a warm car when i am ready to take off...thats all...has anyone done this without encountering any problems? thanks...
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    First of all, turning the wheel while stopped isn't such a hot idea, because it flat-spots the tires and puts a strain on the power steering system. I'd suspect the "grind" you're hearing is the power steering struggling under the load of trying to turn the wheels of a stationary car. Most PS systems will groan a bit if you attempt this.

    That's what I suspected also. Although they said that the noise was coming from the back end.I have not herad back from them on this so I susopect it was a troll.
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    i always was wondering about this: my car usually is outside in the cold during the night...and i usually start it for about 10 minutes to warm up the engine before i take off...the thing i was wondering was if it puts an exceptional load on the engine if we turn the heater on while the car is warming up? i mean the indicator on the left side gauge is still below minimum at this point...just wanted any inputs...i would like to get into a warm car when i am ready to take off...thats all...has anyone done this without encountering any problems? thanks...

    The way the heater gets it's warmth is by warm water/antifreeze mixture that the engine uses. There's a valve (have you heard of a thermostat?)on the engine that pops open when the correct temperature is reached in the engine. When that happens, the water used to cool the engine is also circulated up into the dashboard and through a mini radiator similar to the one on the front of the car. Air is then blown across this mini radiator and out into the compartment.

    So, no, there is nothing harmful in turning your heater on early...unless you fell that cold air is harmful. :-)

    The problem is that the car is not going to get very warm by just sitting there idling. It needs to be worked to get up to some nice hot temperatures and the only way to do that is to drive it. You will still get some heat out of the heater...enough to get the chill out and to melt the ice on the windows, but nothing like if you drove it.
  • rsx_varsx_va Member Posts: 33
    Unlike running the AC, running the heater puts no extra load on the engine at all, just redirects some of the naturally occurring engine heat.

    But warming up the car for 10 minutes is completely unnecessary, and just wastes gas. Even in the coldest weather, you can start it up, let it idle for 15-30 seconds, then take off. Drive it gently until the engine begins to warm up. You'll warm the car faster this way and use less gas. Put on a pair of gloves for the first five minutes of driving to be more comfortable.
  • nitromaxnitromax Member Posts: 640
    The warm up time depends on where you live. Here in New England, I often have a 1/16 to an 1/8 inch of ice to scrape off. Letting the car warm up for 5 minutes during these times allows the ice to soften enough to scrape it off.
  • joeluc13joeluc13 Member Posts: 50
    True. It depends on where you live, and it is not a requirement to heat up the engine nowadays due to the EFI, unless the car is using a carburetor. I warm it up for safety reasons because I don't want to drive with the windshield all fogged up. I believe you can get a ticket for that if a cop sees you driving around with an obstructed windshield. But during Spring or Summer, just turn the key and drive! :)
  • hatchbackbabyhatchbackbaby Member Posts: 7
    I was wondering if any other RSX's have a whining problem. There is a noise that comes from the engine and varies with rpm's, as you increase your rpm's the whining pitch gets higher. It sounds like when you are going at a high rate of speed in reverse, but I'm headed in the forward direction. Another explanation of the sound is it's like I think a turbo would sound as it was winding up. I don't know what this noise is, nor do I know why it would be doing this. Any explanations you can think of?

    Also, the strut problem that is floating around. Is that mainly a front strut problem or a rear strut problem? Reason for asking, wondering if a noice is coming from the rear strut or from the hatch just being loose.
  • rsx_varsx_va Member Posts: 33
    I have noticed a rather strong whine, or high-pitched mechanical drone, that seems to come from the transmission tunnel of my RSX S. The noise is similar to a car running in reverse, but not as loud or grating, and varies with RPM as you said, but only while the car is in gear. I chalked it up to poor cabin insulation, one of the cost-cutting measures Acura apparently used to keep this car's price low.
  • joeluc13joeluc13 Member Posts: 50
    I am beginning to realize that the 2nd gear synchro grind is caused by bad shift-timing. I am getting to know my car more,and so far after 4 months of having my 05 Type-S, I've never had any 2nd gear synchro grind on any single day for 2 months. Somehow, Honda's 6-speed close ratio gear box can't be driven in the same manner that a driver has gotten used to in a different car. After driving a 97 Mitsubishi Mirage for 7 years, I've gotten used to the way that car feels and how it drives. Hence, I've passed that driving manner on to my 05 Type-S, which I believe caused the 2nd gear synchro grinding in the first place. I could be wrong. I'm just expressing my thoughts hoping that there are other RSX Type-S owners who have the same experience. Your feedback is very much welcome. :)
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