Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford F-150 Owners

24567…11

Comments

  • califjohncalifjohn Member Posts: 101
    of the 150. The factory blower appeals to me as does the slightly lower stance and performance tires. Am a little put off tho' by the problems listed in this and other sites about chronic oil leaks in the 5.4 engine series block/head. Does anyone know if this problem has been fixed or is it still a work in progress? I would like the truck better if it had a bench rear seat too. The two captain's chairs in the rear don't make a lot of sense, but hey a pick up you can't haul much in doesn't make much either!
  • chop420chop420 Member Posts: 7
    I currently own a 2000 Volvo S70 GLT and I'm considering a major switch to a Ford F150! I've thought about it for awhile and I think a truck may be more useful than my Volvo. I only put on about 10K miles/year and have a 12 mile all highway commute to work. Also, it seems the ride and drive of the F150 is pretty good, although not at all like my Volvo. My question to owners of the F150, how is it for everyday use? And for someone who has only owned one truck, 1989 Ranger, will I find uses for the truck after I own it that I don't really know about now (i.e. "how did I ever live without this truck"
  • peachtree103peachtree103 Member Posts: 182
    It's not as strange as it sounds. It will confuse those who know you more than you might think. I owned a Lexus ES300 a couple of years ago, and have spent the last two years and 80K miles (yes, 80K) in a 99 F150 Lariat Extended Cab, 2wd, with 5.4 V8.

    The first thing you notice is that every weekend, someone you know (relatives, friends, people who want to make friends because they need you...) will need your truck to move something. Sometimes, the really bold ones will want (expect) you to come with the truck. Set your "I don't lift furniture, haul antiques, or tow farm implements" policy early, and stick to it.

    Obviously, with 80K miles in two years, I've spent quite a bit of time in the truck. It works well in traffic, is comfortable on the highway, and really handles O.K. It's a bit harder to find parking, but you'll adjust. The gas mileage sucks, but you have to have already figured that out. The rear wheels spin on wet surfaces at takeoff sometimes, which will be another adjustment in driving style.

    The incentives are great on these now, and they're really quite affordable. I'm about to move back into the sports sedan category, but it hasn't been a bad couple of years with the truck (although my back is still aching from the weekend chores of my friends).

    Good Luck.
  • 3fan23fan2 Member Posts: 6
    Just got my 02 F-150 supercrew. I love it. Plenty of room, very comfortable. Lots of luggage space if needed. I have the Bedrug and ARE lid. Plenty of rear seat room. Rides great. Looks good. Our first truck and we love it.
  • jps6jps6 Member Posts: 6
    I'm buying an older {1993} F 150 supercab XLT LB 4X4 in 2 weeks. I love this truck, but in checking out several fords of the exact year and model, I've discovered some have a tailgate with the aluminum treatment and the smaller ford logo, while the one I'm buying has the traditional F O R D in big letters across the back of the tailgate.It sure looks like the original tailgate of the same year. Can someone help me out with this non-life threatening yet puzzling dilemma? THANKS!
  • 2002svtf1502002svtf150 Member Posts: 30
    You are correct, their is a coilpack to be removed over each plug. You'll need a 7mm socket to remove the coilpacks, a 1/4' swivel(universal) adapter, a few 1/4 " extensions, a 5/8" Spark Plug socket, several lengths of 3/8" extensions & a 3/8" universal, as well as a couple of rachets. Remove the 7mm screws holding the coilpacks on, then gently twist the coilpack to release the attached boot that covers the wire to the plug, until it breaks loose from the plug. Now pull the coilpack/boot assembly out in one piece if you can. If the boot separates, don't panic it will slip back onto the coilpack easily enough. If you have an air compressor, blow around the plugs before removing them to dislodge any trash that may have accumulated in the plug recess. Next lower the plug socket on a 4"-6" extension until you get it onto the plug, loosen & remove the plug. The plugs are recessed 5 or 6 inches into the head. After this, gap the new plug, push it into the plug socket & ease it into the hole, it will line up almost every time. Retighten the plug, replace the coilpack, screw it down & go to the next plug. It's an easy job, but can be frustrating if you get in a hurry, especially the 3rd plug back on the driver's side & the 2 rearmost plugs. Lastly, you will drop a coilpack screw or 2 so before you start, go ahead & get your extendable magnet out. Good luck...
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    image


    Just a reminder that our Town Hall chat happens on Wednesday (5-7pm Pacific/8-10 pm Eastern). This week, our topic will be:


    Import Trucks: Can they compete with domestics?


    http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/chat/newsviews.html




    PF Flyer

    Host

    Pickups & News & Views Message Boards

  • trex997trex997 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 F150 Lariet 4x2 Extended Cab with sliding glass rear window. The problem is that when it rains I have a leaking problem. It drips down the back seat slightly to the passenger side. The headboard(?) is stained like it is leaking from the roof but I can't find any holes or cracks. I am thinking it is coming from the sliding window or the third brake light. Anyone with similar problem, or ideas on how to fix this would be appreciated. Thanks
  • dunkmydonutdunkmydonut Member Posts: 35
    Hello Cindy, I'm not sure how to fix the grind. more than likely a bad synchro. I drove tractor trailer for 20 years, and none of the trucks we drove had any synchronizers. We had to get the engine and transmission turning at the same speed, roughly. This requires a simple procedure called double clutching. Simply put when upshifting 2nd to 3rd let out the clutch on the way between gears. Do not rev the motor, as this will defeat the purpose. Just make sure you are in neutral when you briefly let out the clutch, before you shift into third. When down shifting, same thing, only slightly rev the engine when down shifting from 4th to 3rd. This momentary letting out the clutch in between gears gets your engine and transmission turning at almost the same speed, which is the job the synchros are supposed to do. As I said earlier we used 10 speed fuller transmissions that had no synchronizers in any of the gears. I'm probably making this sound a lot harder than it is. With a little practice it gets easy, and is good for the longevity of the tranny. Not meaning to replace having it repaired, but it will make the truck usable until a repair happens, if ever knowing Ford from past experience. It would help if you have a friend or family member that's a trucker to talk you through it. Good Luck.... Leo
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    How can I determine, by looking at the OUTSIDE of the rear differential case, if an F-150 has limited slip ? Are there codes stamped into the housing ? A tag ? Is there a way, using the VIN number, to determine this ? Do I need to contact ford ? The truck is a 2001 F-150 Supercab 2x4 "Sport" XLT. thanks.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    On the sticker on the door jamb, there is an 'axle code' listed:
    18- 3.08
    19- 3.55
    26- 3.73
    27- 3.31
    H9- 3.55LS
    B6- 3.73LS
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    On the sticker on the door jamb, there is an 'axle code' listed:
    18- 3.08
    19- 3.55
    26- 3.73
    27- 3.31
    H9- 3.55LS
    B6- 3.73LS

    Sometimes I've seen this sticker not have the axle code listed.. There's also a tag on the rear diff as well..
  • buckmaster1buckmaster1 Member Posts: 20
    I have a 2001 supercrew with a 5.4 and 4WD and lots of neat options.This truck has an aftermarket air intake,exhaust and chip.Let me tell you this truck is Big,Fast and Very Protective of its occupants.It hauls anything anywhere and Tows,Tows,Tows.My utility trailer,my camper,with 4 or 5 people and a bed full of gear and beer.When I around town it to my kids school functions or whatever,my mind is at ease that this vehicle is very capable of any situation.Accident protection with the 4 full doors and full B pillar, and the height is a piece of mind you can't put a price on.My kids and I ride high and safe,even from other suv type vehicles. While all the extended cab models (Ford Gm or dodge) do not have a b pillar structure,during a collision they tend to fold right at that spot where the 2 doors meet.That is just inherent to that type of design.Crewcab or any 4 door vehicle with a post always fare well in collisions-Ford Crown Vics especially.I have been a Police officer for ten years and have seen guys crack these up a lot-even roll em over,and most always walk away.if anything the extra equipment inside causes an injury or two-police radio and/or computer are not really positioned for accident safety.Only drawback on this truck is its size in a parking lot.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    ..for info on axle codes. Much appreciated.
    :-)
  • dass444dass444 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone have a picture of a 4-Door F-150 Harley Davidson Edition, (preferably lowered), with a sun roof...I've seen one around at a Starbucks near me, and as soon a i saw this truck I fell in LOVE with it. So if anyone has a Picture of a REALLY nice Black 4-door Harley Davidson Edition i would really appreciate it...so i can drool over the picture all day. If you have one e-mail me at Zombie5960@aol.com or if you know any websites having pictures of this car i would really be grateful!

    Thanks Everyone!!
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    pictures that I use on my Desktop, most of which came from the Sportruck.com website from thier show coverage.
  • dass444dass444 Member Posts: 2
    Thx everyone for telling me a website and even one of you sending me an emailed picture...once again thx!
  • ad8ad8 Member Posts: 6
    We currently own a 1985 F-150. This truck is finally starting to die. We put a new motor in it about 2 years ago. The body is just starting to rust. The problem is we will be heartbroken if and when we have to take it off the road. This truck has been amazing. It has hauled and helped us out alot around our house. We really hate to let it die but good things do come to an end.

    We are looking for another truck but since its been so long with this truck, we are not sure if we should stick with a Ford because of the great luck or possibly buy a Chevy.

    Anyone have any opinions? We are listening.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    Check out the Chevy/GMC truck discussions on here. If you do NOT like the SHAKES and VIBRATION when you drive, buy a Tundra or an F-150...in that order.
    GMC/ Silverado seem to be the "King of the Vibrators". The mediocre reliability of Dodge pretty much rules it out. Good luck.
  • crosley4crosley4 Member Posts: 295
    I own a 2000 Silverado 1500 4x2 xtra cab and a 2001 Ford Super Crew 4x2.

    I've never had the shakes in my Chevy cept when it was heavily loaded. When loaded the rear half of the drive shaft is at a bad angle to the pinion gear. It does seem like a bad design to me. I've read that the shakes seem to be in more 4x4 GM trucks than the 4x2's.

    I lowered my Super Crew 2 inches front and back. i did have to correct the pinion angle to stop a vibration in it.
  • tgravo2tgravo2 Member Posts: 70
    Anyone have the Keyless Start option or know how this works on the new F-150's??? After you start the engine can you just get in and drive, or do you still have to put the key in. I'm just a little curious on how this works. Thanks for any info.
  • autonutsautonuts Member Posts: 138
    with 101,000mi. on it. The truck appears to be in very good shape, but know looks are deceiving. The current owner (#3) is asking $5,000 for it which is high compared to what Edmunds and KBB says it should be. Both say it should run about $3,600. The interior looks great as well as the body. It has the 4.9l 6cyl. in it with 2 tone paint and the XLT package. Owner says he is selling it only because he needs money to compensate for some stolen goods? He has owned it only a short while. What do you all think?
  • autonutsautonuts Member Posts: 138
    I passed on it. The owner wouldn't budge on the price so I let it go.
  • calgaryf150calgaryf150 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 F-150 with just over 26,000 miles on it. Today, when changing the air filter, I noticed that the paint is starting to bubble from rust on the leading edge of the hood. This truck is washed a lot, so I'm wondering if this is a problem that others have had. Just trying to get some backround info before I go to my dealer.
  • lariat1lariat1 Member Posts: 461
    More than likely you have a paint flaw on your truck. I believe the hood on the F-150 is made of aluminum. (I know the 97's were)I would take the truck to the service department and have them look at it.
  • autonutsautonuts Member Posts: 138
    Can someone tell me what a 1988 Ford F-250 with 66,000 original miles, no apparent rust problems, not sure what engine size (female owner didn't know),auto. trans., two-tone paint (red/white), red interior should go for? Does anyone know what size engines were available in that year's F-250? Thanks.
  • peachtree103peachtree103 Member Posts: 182
    Try posting over on the smart shopper forum under "Real World Trade-in Values" Terry (rroyce) is the truck expert, and can give you a good idea on current wholesale & retail. Be sure to put the area of the country you live in, as truck values vary greatly between regions. Happy Shopping.
  • kcowboykcowboy Member Posts: 33
    Hey frey44 is right, I'd stay away from a GM product they have countless problems. I sold my 86 Ford F150 XLT last summer. It had 175,000 on and still ran good, its got about 200,000 on now and the fellow I sold it to says its running fine. I've always owned a F150 and they have been good. I bought 2001 Tundra SR5 V8 Access cab last summer because of the great deal I got on it. They were offering a $5000.00 rebate plus it came loaded with everything on it that would have cost me extra if I went with Ford are Dodge. I didn't even consider Chevy because of the problems they were having. If I wouldn't got the Toyota Tundra I would have definitely gone back with Ford.

    The Tundra has been great so far, plenty of power and runs real smooth. I hope it lasts as long as my 86 F150 did.
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    And would like to hear some comments on them from owners. Late models of course since Im looking at a 2002 model.

    How is the reliability? (Visits to shop)
    How is the ride? (Esp on highways)
    Comfort (Ive noticed the 60/40 bench seats are horrible)

    Any thoughts on pros/cons on F-150 over Chevy, Dodge, and Toyota would be appreciated.

    Thanks in advance!
  • crosley4crosley4 Member Posts: 295
    We own a 2001 F-150 Super Crew, 5.4 motor and a 2000 Silverado xtra cab, 1500, 5.3 motor. Both trucks are 4x2. It's the first Ford I have owned from new.

    Quite happy with both trucks. I am a GM guy for 4 decades. I beleive I like the Ford over the Chevy now. The ford is a Lariat which has a higher level of options than the Chevy.

    The chevy averages about 1 mpg better than the Ford. The Chevy will out pull the Ford, but the chevy has a lower rear end gear(3.73 vs 3.55 Ford).

    Both trucks ride about the same. I did lower the Ford 2 inches front and rear.

    We have the bucket seats in the Ford and they sit us real well. We are not tall people though. I am 5' 7" soaking wet and my wife is 2" shorter.

    The Ford's adjustable pedals are great for us. We can leave the power drivers seat in nearly the same spot and my wife moves the pedals closer and she is set.

    We have the bucket seats in the chevy too. They are comfortable, cloth not leather stuff like the Ford.

    THe chevy(25k miles) has only been to the dealer for the little recall stuff they mail to you. The Ford(10k miles) has only been back to get a new key ($78.00 transponder type)that must be programed to the trucks computer system.

    If you BUY a new Ford truck get and extra key programed to the truck so you have "3" good keys!! The truck's on board system will program a new key IF you have TWO functioning keys. loose a key and only have ONE key.... you must go to Ford to get a key.

    After market locksmiths may have the computer system to program a new key like Ford, but the guys I called wanted $150.00 and up for a new key that cost $78.00 from Ford. For regular dupicate key the locksmiths want around $25-30.00 if you have TWO good keys for your truck.

    Hope did not confuse you. 78 bucks for a new ignition key was a tough one for this middleaged guy to handle. It's the first car key my wife of 29 years has ever lost. Of course she looses the expensive one.

    We never looked at Dodges. THe Tundras are a bit too small for us and the beds are shallower than a full size GM or Ford. Toyota quality is second to none, so it depends on what vehicle you need......
  • peachtree103peachtree103 Member Posts: 182
    Well, at least Jaguar hasn't started making trucks...yet...,

    I've got a 99 F-150 supercab Lariat with the 5.4 V8, and have 80K on the odometer. With the exception of the brakes, it's been trouble free. After I had the tires replaced at about 50K miles, the pads started wearing out every 5K. I've had the rotors replaced (twice), but I've still got a bit of vibration when braking. I suspect that something warped in the tire exchange, so I don't necessarily hold this against Ford. (This is apparently a very common problem with Chrysler/Jeep products, as well).

    The bucket seats are reasonably comfortable, and I did quite a bit of highway cruising in it. I previously had a 97 GMC full size which unfortunately was not as reliable. Mulitple transmission problems starting at 50K miles which were very difficult and expensive to repair. In addition, the previous GMC/Chevy trucks had to have special parts for a front wheel alignment which made this otherwise routine procedure somewhat expensive.

    If you need less of a work truck & more of a daily driver, the Toyota is an excellent choice. Great Reliability & Superior Crash Test Scores, but slightly less towing capacity, if I'm not mistaken.

    Will answer more specific question if you've got em. Good Luck with whatever you choose.
  • marymudmarymud Member Posts: 3
    Hi. I went to look at a F150 today but now I can not figure out which exact type it was. It was a 1992, supercab pickup, auto, power steering, power windoes and locks, 8 cyclinder (the dealer guy said a V8 but the cylinders were grouped together in a round group not in a line or V shaped). I has bucket type seats in the front and a beanch type seat in the back (could fit 3 small people). It also had 2 gas tanks. 105K miles on it.
    So...Do you know which type it is? If so I'm tring to find out if it is a good truck or not. The dealer is asking $5,250 (thay wanted $6000 at first).

    Thanks for any help.

    Mary
    mfminahan@yahoo.com
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    It's either a 5.0L v8 or 5.8L v8.

    You forgot to mention whether its a 4x2 or 4x4.. For only 6k, I would have to assume its either a 4x2 in decent shape or a 4x4 thats only in fair condition.
    Not seeing the vehicle, it's difficult to judge, but 5,000 seems very reasonable..
  • marymudmarymud Member Posts: 3
    Thanks you Bess. I'm not sure if it is a 5.0 or 5.8 L V8. I think it is only a 4x2 because I did not see anything that could shift it into 4 wheel drive.
    Do you know how long or how many miled a F150 can last for? I am wondering at 105K miles if this is the breaking point?
    Thanks,
    Mary
  • marymudmarymud Member Posts: 3
    Do you know or do you know how I could find out what type of gas milage an 1992 F150 8cyl would get?
    Mary
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Hi,
    I've got a '95 F150, 5.0L V8, with ~170K miles on it. It's still running strong, and not as pretty as it used to be, but it was well taken care of. Did a lot of highway miles, but always had oil changed at ~ 3000 mile intervals. I had to replace tranny at around 125K. It's needed a new starter, and a throttle position sensor, but every thing else has been normal maintenance items - tires, shocks, belts, hoses, etc.
    Are there any maintenance records with vehicle? Is the dealer a Ford Dealer - he could probably run the VIN # and see if it has a service record. You can also run Vin # through Autocheck (?) to find out if it's ever been in accidents, or had comprehensive insurance claims against it (vandalism, flood, etc.). Do you have a private auto mechanic that you trust? If so, ask dealer if you can have your mechanic inspect the truck as a condition of sale. Check phone book, some areas have used car inspection services that go over vehicle from top to bottom and give you a report. The $100+ cost would be worth it if they save you from making a $$$ mistake.
    As far as mileage goes, my 5.0L is not great (its an extended cab, long bed, 4x2). It gets approx. 12 mpg around town, 15-17 on highway depending on how fast/hard you drive.

    Good Luck.

    Wp
  • bcogarbcogar Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone heard about the 5.4L on the F150 having a oil crankcase leak. I've heard this from about 3 different people now. They say if you develop it and go to Ford, even after the warranty they will fix it.
  • jcave1jcave1 Member Posts: 137
    My last truck was a '92 F-150 4X4 supercab shortbed with five speed manual tranny. It had been maintained however at 150k miles it needed engine work primarily with the heads. There are tons of these on the market therefore trade in value stinks. Paint and interior held up very well. Those captians chairs are very comfortable. The backseat folds down giving you a steel platform all the way across. Mileage when new was about 15, at trade in was about 11.

    If possible you should check maintenance, particulary the auto tranny. It needs to be maintained properly, drained, and flushed. Check the tranny fluid, it shouldn't look or smell burned at all. Burned would be a brownish color, not a nice red.

    I see lots of these in the 6 - 8k range but most are 4X4. Add another 1500 or so for that option. We're partial to 4X4's out here.

    I'd say at $5,200, it could be a decent price depending at least these things.

    Mine served very well. The oxygen sensor would fail about every 40k miles which is fairly normal I'm told. Overall I was very satisfied. Have a 2001 Superduty Powerstroke Diesel today. The
    F-150 was good enough that I decided to stay Ford.

    jerry
  • eleets00eleets00 Member Posts: 27
    Hello all. I would like to know if anyone here owns the 2000 F150 Harley Davidson SuperCab &/or the 2001 F150 Harley Davidson CrewCab. How do they drive? How is the reliability? What is the gas mileage like? I'm looking at the 2002 Ram Quad Cab, but like the Harley Davidson F150's better. But.. after my 96 Contour fiasco, I'm skeptical of buying another Ford product (I've heard the horror stories on the pre-2K2 Ram's). I have a 48 mile round trip to work every day. Plus I plan on getting sport bike & would like to know which one is better equipped to handle the bike. How much should I expect to pay for either? Any info/advice anyone can provide will greatly appreciated.

    PS - Anyone know where I can get some info on the next generation F150's?
  • mwautomwauto Member Posts: 4
    I have an 2002 F-150 Suprcrew with 7,300 miles and the transmission slips intermitently between first and second gear approximately 10 times per week. I notice it mainly in stop-n-go traffic when I do not come to a complete stop or leaving a parking lot etc. and go to accelerate. The vehicle jerks when the rear wheels finally catch and I have heard a metal scraping noise from the rear once. It has been in the shop twice so far and they have been unable to find anything. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
  • capitolason2capitolason2 Member Posts: 4
    The F-150 truck seats hurt my back. That is the only reason I have not bought one. I find that the Ford Windstar seats are very comfortable and the Ranger seats are not bad. But I want a full size truck, not a van. Does anyone know if F-150 seats have been successfully replaced by anyone? I don't want to buy a Ranger because I want the extra room and size that an F-150 would give me.
  • scubachikscubachik Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 F-150 extended cab flair side...I love it. However, there seems to be a short in the electrical somewhere around the dome light area. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • dwrestledwrestle Member Posts: 72
    Has ford already offered a F-150 with a deisel engine in the past? I was just wondering because on www.kbb.com they have the 7.3 as an option on the engine selection part, well at least on a 1993 F-150.

    Any help would be nice, that engine would be sweet in an F-150.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Think that's a typo on the part of KBB. I think that the 7.3L Powerstroke diesel only came out in '98. Prior to that it was a 6.9L Diesel, but they were only available in the 250/350 series trucks. (Jim can you corroborate?).
      I don't think that the front end of an F150 could carry the extra weight of full-sized diesel motor.
  • playerplayer Member Posts: 2
    Just purchased a 2004 F150 Lariat with the leather trimmed captains chairs. I find these chairs to be very uncomfortable. The back side bolsters are not very big and set too far outboard causing my back to slide left and right when making turns. Also, the side bolsters on the seat is uneven. the outboard side is almost flat where the inboard side in high. This makes me feel as if the left side of the seat is lower than the right prompting me to constantly adjusting my seating position. The passenger side seat has similar problem except reversed. I also noticed irregular surface areas just beneath the leather sheathing. When I took the vehicle to Ford dealership, their explanation was that Ford made the outboard sides of the seat cushion lower to aid ease of getting out of the car. Does this make sense? Does anyone else have this problem?
  • playerplayer Member Posts: 2
    Just purchase an 04 F150 Lariat with the 5.4 liter 3 valves per cylinder. The engine idles rough when stopped or in park position. Took the vehicle to Ford. Their explanation was that the new 5.4 idle a bit rough due to the nature of the design of the 3 valves per cylinder configuration. Anyone else experiencing this problem?
  • shawnc2shawnc2 Member Posts: 12
    I have an '02 F-150 supercab flareside with the FX4 off-road package. I wanted to put a flowmaster dual exit rear exhaust on it. I saw that some of the other aftermarket catback exhaust systems require you to move or remove the spare tire (Gibson and Jeg's and I think), something I'm not willing to do. Has anyone put this on their truck? I wanted to know if you had to make any changes to the spare or if the tail pipes will clear. Also, how long do the aluminized pipes last compared to stainless steel.

    Thanks.
  • todd1965todd1965 Member Posts: 16
    I have a 2003 F-150 SC and I placed a Flowmaster Dual Exhaust System on my truck. I think you can't put any other system on your truck, it gives that low rumble sound that everyone can hear when you start up your energy.
  • price4000price4000 Member Posts: 4
    I recently bought an '01 4x4 SuperCrew and have been researching some exhaust systems, as well. My question for you is: even though you love the low rumble of your FlowMaster split dual upon start-up, how loud is the internal hum/rumble at highway speeds? I hear from the installers that the usual complaint by customers is the loud, internal rumbling on the highway. Have you experienced this and just live with it, or does your cabin stay relatively quiet at all speeds?
  • price4000price4000 Member Posts: 4
    I recently bought an '01 4x4 SuperCrew with 29k miles. Mint. Although I've owned two V-8 Bronco's in the past and know quite well that V-8's obviously aren't the fuel efficient wonders that we wish they were, I've been a little surprised to see a city avg of 13.3 mi/gal and city/hwy avg of 15.5. For those of you with '01-'03 4x4 SuperCrews, does this fuel economy sound about right to you? Also, have any of you upgraded your air-intake systems and seen positive effects on your fuel economy since? I'm thinking about going to an aftermarket ait intake, primarily for throttle response reasons, but I hear such changes (also going with true split exhaust, etc) often result in slightly better fuel economy as well? Any suggestions are appreciated.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles