Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair

americanflag · January 2003

they are made out of latex, one popular manufacturer is Trojan.

swschrad · January 2003

just over the wipers :-D

it's very similar if not identical to the plastic cladding they used on the underside and splash surfaces in the 90 ranger, among other cars. if I hadn't gotten a strip of hood munged up by a cheap windscreen pressing against it on the road, I would lay the sheeting down as soon as it got warm enough to work.

americanflag · January 2003

but maybe not as much fun. And now they make them in different colors too.

arcticman · January 2003

Anybody know the compositon of manufacturer applied paint sealant? My 7 month old white vehicle has it and it's durability is surprising. I was a meguire 3-step believer for 8 years but I don't have the time to continue this procedure on this bigger rig. However, I do want to increase and/or maintain the paint protection I currently have with minimal time investment. The dealership has a sealant protector they sell that will "maintain the sealant integrity better than anything on the market". I would expect such a comment from them. They claim once or twice a year is adequate. I'm receptive to trying the "miracle product without equal". I've perused the Zaino and wax boards and I'm still on the fence as to the identity of this product.

bretfraz · January 2003

hmmmm..... I don't think I've ever heard of a mfr that applies a paint sealant. Which mfr is this? I have contacts in the surface care products industry and can ask them.

How exactly do you know the mfr applied a sealant? Did it come with a warranty? Who wrote the warranty?

The majority of dealer-applied paint sealants are nothing special. Lots of companies mfr and sell sealants. You can buy some of them at retail for about $10/bottle. A number of large dealer chains have supply agreements with certain suppliers to provide sealants. For example, all the Rick Hendrick dealerships get their paint sealants from one supplier in Charlotte. Rumor is that he's one of Rick's good ol' boys. This is the stuff Hendrick dealers push on every new car sold. I forgot what they call it..... Auto Armor or something. Not a total rip but a 99% rip.

swschrad · January 2003

they don't.

virtually all cars are painted with a basecoat and clearcoat combination, if that's what you mean. the clearcoat is the same solvent and paint resin base as the paint, except there is no color mixed in with it. the basecoat is intensely more infused with colorant, metal flake, etc.

as for dealer "paint sealants"... repeat after me... It's Only Waxing. It's Only Waxing......

arcticman · January 2003

Gulf States Toyota applied the sealant according to the dealership manager who sold me the vehicle. I have no proof other than the sticker that lists everything that comes with the $1300 protection package, (which I didn't order but he "gave" it to me for $600). I suppose it's possible that nothing was applied. However, water beads up on its surface like its recently been waxed and the finish (when freshly washed) is still as smooth as a baby's butt. Tar, bugs, mud and bird droppings come off with minimal effort. If this is how new paint performs with nothing on it then why does anyone bother protecting their finishes with waxes, polymers,etc? Whatever is on this vehicle appears to be as good or better than the meguire products I've used.

jwilson1 · January 2003

I don't understand it, but something similar happened to me. The initial coat of dealer wax (I had them detail it before I picked it up) lasted nearly a year on my wife's Subaru. So, when it finally quite beading, I took the car back to them and this time paid for the waxing ... it only lasted like a regular coat. I have no idea what it was.

JW

arcticman · January 2003

I called they told me my truck did not have a clear coat. They supposedly confirmed it using my vin number. I, too, have a tendency not to trust the dealerships but my eyes aren't fooling me. I was told that its common for white vehicles to not have a clearcoat finish. It is possible that Gulf States Toyota does in fact have something that works better than the average wax/polymer. Something foolproof so that anyone can apply it on a new finish without ruining it.

swschrad · January 2003

but if they can't put the same stuff on a year later when you go in for detailing, it's all so very suspicious to me.

especially since you can't seem to get a car without the Unicorn Ear Wax / Kryptonite Undercoat / VIN-etched windows / all-important ADP sticker addition (Additional Dealer Profit - yes, some dealers do this).

it sounds like... yes... Bait And Switch! gouge 'em while they're signing so many papers they can't read the darn things! customer auto-screw! no car sold without brother-in-law insurance!

do be sure to go in for their recommended air rotation in the tires each quarter, and for the draining of extra ads from the radio. it's on the service list, it must be needed.

sheesh, will these slimy sales techniques never end?

jwilson1 · January 2003

Great post. Exactly the reason I never mentioned it before, but I sure wish I could have duplicated the result.

JW

arcticman · January 2003

I was wrong about the amount paid for the vehicle protection package. The manager we dealt with quoted us a price $4900 below MSRP for the exact model,color, options, etc.that we wanted. However, he could not promise delivery for at least a month. I told him never mind his price was too high. He then told me that his net on this quote was $750 and good luck finding it cheaper. He told me he plans to make money servicing the vehicles they sell. After searching throughout the gulf states region and the net I couldn't beat his quote. Two weeks later he found us the exact one we wanted except it already had the vehicle protection package ($200), the extra mileage package ($1362) (neither of which we wanted), and turn signal mirrors (we didn't mind that option) for a total of $400 more on his original quote. So we paid $400 on a total retail package of $1962. Thus the unicorn ear wax, Kryptonite undercoat and stained glass windows were free. AND the dealer threw in free tire air rotations and extra hard drive storage for the radio ads! Swschrad, I wasn't the one who had the dealer reapply whatever they use. I haven't added anything to my finish. I reiterate from earlier, whatever is on it seems quite durable. And IF I got ripped off and they applied nothing then nothing seems to be needed!

bretfraz · January 2003

Gulf States Toyota is a distributor not the mfr. Toyota Corporate sells their cars to regional distributors who in turn sell and allocate cars to dealers within that region. I don't recall who own Gulf States but I do know Southeast Toyota Distributors (SETD) are owned by the Moran family who are megadealers in FLA among other states.

If you want some of their sealant you might want to contact Gulf States and ask. I have no idea who supplies them.

swschrad · January 2003

how could I forget that? oh, well, at least I got the last set of genuine mink fuzzy dice when I got mine

sure would hate to settle for polyester dice

mosquitonet · February 2003

need help on how to manage/remove asphalt stains along my suv side panels. Vehicle is brand new and painted white.hope someone would be able to help.thanks and more power to all !!!!

swschrad · February 2003

comes off slick. stoddard solvent (tar and bug remover) will also work, and is also gentle on paint, but I've removed a tubload of tar from, alas, my counter and floor from rebuilding old 1920 radio parts... and cleaning out a couple dryers in the laundry room that some poltroon has gooped up to the devilment of us all... and dude, it's slick and quick and all done fast.

peppe1 · March 2003

I have a Forest green Ram and they guy at the dump leaned up against my truck and his Zipper scratched the ???? out of the bed fender. Lots of little scratches and two through to the white/silver primer. A friend used a little green color turtle wax and for the most part the scratches except for the real bad one disappeared. When I detail later when the weather warms will use a clay bar.
Question: Do the color waxes work or are there other methods of hidding these type of scratches.

swschrad · March 2003

keep it waxed solid until it warms up, then clear that out with some isopropyl alcohol or other strong de-waxer, and fill the scratch with primer and paint and clearcoat. wax also absorbs water from the air (or from rain or salt splash in snow country) and softens a little... which can let the water through to metal. you do want to get this cleaned out, painted, and protected when the weather allows... or if you want to be sure about it, get a body shop estimate now.

if you don't want it to show at all, period, you may have to have the paint airbrushed in or the panel repainted.

jwilson1 · March 2003

Can any body/paint shop airbrush? If not, how would I find someone locally. Is it a hard skill to learn -- yeah, I'm wondering if it would make sense for a hobbyist to try to do it for himself.

Thanks as always.

JW

bretfraz · March 2003

Like any technique it takes some time to learn but its not rocket science or anything.

There are lots of places that sell airbrushes for modeling. Check out your local hobby store that sells plastic and wood models. Or shop online. I have a small airbrush and compressor made by Paasche. Badger is another well known brand.

pap5 · March 2003

I'm new to this discussion, so please forgive me if I'm asking something that's been covered 100 times already. I just discovered some SOB scratched the driver's door of my '01 BMW 530i. It wasn't accidental -- he/she made multiple passes. It's hard to tell what instrument was used -- the scratches are wide but not too deep, with no primer or metal showing. The color is topaz, a rich, medium metallic blue. Any suggestions for eliminating or minimizing the damage? Thanks for any advice.

dq1 · March 2003

Anyone know how to remove those plastic emblems, i.e. "Toyota", "GT" or whatever that are apparently glued onto the back of the car. I think I've heard to use a hair dryer to heat up the glue, but thought I'd see if anyone has done it before or knows a better way. Most importantly, I don't want to damage the paint.

swschrad · March 2003

1) emblems are attached either by screws through the panel.. or double-stick foam tape. try to fish some monofilament fishing line or solid, top-line dental floss behind a corner of the emblem, pull the ends slightly towards you, and seesaw the thing off. you can get more of that tape at a real good auto shop's body supplies corner to put 'em back on later.

2) sounds like your door has been keyed. those dumb sonofaguns oughta be shot. anyway, the paint has to be fade-matched to what is really on your door now, not what it was at the factory, and then airbrushed on. the alternative is to full and sand the area, and repaint the panel. both work.

arcticman · March 2003

I've had good results using GOO GONE to remove the tape/glue residue after prying off the emblems with a butter knife. Both times the vehicles had been cooking in the Texan sun.

sddlw · March 2003

If there is no primer showing, you might try to buff the scratches out using a polishing glaze or rubbing compound. Maguires and 3M both make some good products that can be used with an orbital buffer. How fine or abrasive a product you will need will depend on how much polishing you need to do. There is a lot of information on their websites. Once the scratches are gone, finish up with a really fine grit polish. The type of polishing bonnet will also effect how quickly and deeply you remove paint layers. Use a synthetic wool bonnet for a more agressive polishing and a foam bonnet for finer polishing. If the alternative is to have the door repainted, what have you got to loose?

peppe1 · March 2003

On My 02 Dodge Ram I am getting a filmy overspray from the tires at the rear of the wheel wells. It looks like clear coat overspray but it is from the road salts etc.(I live in Maryland)
It is on the painted fender edges and undersides and the plastic wheel well liners.
What should I use to remove. already tried Bug and tar remover but it did not work. Any Ideas??

sddlw · March 2003

Try using white vinegar, full strength. It might take a couple tries, or try to get a vinegar soaked rag to stay in contact with the salts/film for a few minutes. The acetic acid in the vinegar should disolve the salts better than soapy water. Bug remover is mostly organic compounds and would not usually disolve salts.

dylan383 · March 2003

This is my first black sedan. I love the look of the black paint but have already discovered that it quickly can get dirty. Any suggestions on maintaining the beautiful appearance of the black paint? Are car washes overly harsh to black paint? Do people hand wash instead? Are spray waxes at all effective?

k005 · March 2003

We had a significant hail storm recently. As a result my wife's 2000 Honda Accord has small dents approximately every 3 to 4 inches on the
hood, the trunk, the roof and both driver side doors. Auto-body shop gave me an estimate to replace everything including the roof. (And looks like insurance is willing to pay for it). My question relates to replacing the roof. Sounds like a fairly significant job to me and I'm wondering if that might not lead to other problems later (like windows not sealing properly or the interior not being redone like the original). Any advice highly appreciated.

sddlw · March 2003

Black is indeed beautiful. But in addition to dirt, expect to see all the minor sctatches and swirls in the surface of the finish over time. Taking the car to a car wash will definately lead to more swirls than carefully washing it yourself. Even the brushless washes, as cleaning rags get dirty and no one else will be as careful as you. There are a couple of car wax discussions going on, on this board. They are great places for tips on keeping your car looking great. ........any wax is better than no wax, but some waxes or polymers are better than others. There are so many different products, with different properties out there, one could write a book. But the 2 main car wax discusssions have already done that. Look at "Store bought waxes" and "Zaino experiences".

dylan383 · March 2003

Thanks for the advice. I've had good luck with the meguires' products. Zaino sounds great as well.

bigfur · March 2003

Replacing the roof shouldnt have a much of an effect on the windows or door lining up properly. All they really do is pull a thing sheet of metal off the top, but the roof panel stops at the drip rail where it is welded on. Plus odds are when the body tech gets the supplement sheet to adjust the times and things, he will fix the roof rather than replace it, or atleast thats what i used to do and everyone i worked with used to do. In extreme cases when we would replace a roof, the only real pain was dropping the headliner out of it and pulling the interior parts off so they didnt get burned when welding it (the roof) back on. Talk to the body shop and ask to talk to the tech that will work on it and see what he thinks would be better.

cds12 · April 2003

Anybody use this stuff for repairing paint chips?

If so, what do you think?

4runnercanuck · April 2003

Like the cladding or not ........... all I want to do is find something to clean/protect the material. Toyota Canada and Toyota US refuse to recommend a product. One dealer says 'don't wax it..... it's porous'. Another dealer says 'use a good quality vinyl cleaner'. ???? Another dealer says ....... we have a product shipped dirctly to us from Toyota but we can't sell it retail ???

Any suggestions or proven solutions would be appreciated.

chile96 · May 2003

Quickie question: I had my hood on my yukon replaced and then painted of course and the new hood now feels "rough", not smooth like the rest of the original truck - is this normal. The place where I got it done(last summer) gives a 5 yr warranty on paint & bodywork. Should I take it back? Also, I've noticed a few real small spots randomnly on the hood where the paint is gone, looks like rock chip damage but on the top of the hood? Finally, I just noticed that there is some overspray? on the top of the car above the windshield(no idea why they were fooling around up there). It looks like dust but doesn't wipe off - and it's "rough" too. Did I get hosed w/ this repair job and should I take it back to them?

thanks
fo

bretfraz · May 2003

Absolutely take it back. I'm not sure what the 5 year warranty covers so it might be a smart idea to read all your paperwork completely before going back to the shop.

Without seeing it I can't tell you why the hood is rough. It should have been clearcoated by the shop and it should be glassy smooth.

Rock chips on the hood are common. Have a look at them with a magnifying glass to see them up close. Could be lots of things.

Paint overspray is more of a hassle than anything. They probably didn't protect the area on the roof very well and some paint got on there. Paint detailing clay can usually take this off but the shop can fix it easily too.

chile96 · May 2003

I'm off on Tuesday so I'll go back then. I know it'll be a hassle b/c when I picked my truck up there was a considerable dent on the passenger side w/ FRESH white paint on it that they didn't want to do anything about - "Are you sure that wasn't already there?" Honestly, what do they care about forking over a little extra to make it right - it's not like they work for HMO's and make more the less they do....lol

fo

bigfur · May 2003

sounds like the hood might have an orange peel effect. or they may not have let the clear coat bake long enough...either way take it back and ask nicely the first time, then scream and yell. If its a body shop chain you could also try another shop of the same owership in the area, may have just been the one shop.

lapvn · June 2003

2 years ago, I was still living in an apt and parking the car on the street. One snow storm, some dork was backing his way out of our street and ended up banging into our front right side area, right around where the crease of the door begins. Anyway, now that I have space to work on it, what can I use to pull the dent out so I can then start thinking about taking the rust out, then priming and painting the car. I am a newbie at this so what can I use.

What about that informercial for the "dent king"? same as all infomercials, waiste of time and money?

Any help is greatly appreaciated.

jander111 · June 2003

Never worked on one but watched a pro. did it in a few minutes. They just put a wood block at back of the panel then hammer on it. A few strikes later the panel is back to original shape and ready for a repaint job. Amazing! I can't do it anyway.

The "ding king"? Yeah, waste of money. There is a website to evaluate all sorts of products, basically they answer the question -- "Does it work?". The answer for "ding king" is NO.

swschrad · June 2003

you could tweak the dent out from the inside of the door using a stout wire tool. you could maybe pop it with the wood block. or you could give up, cut the paint off and groove the dent metal with a coarse sanding wheel, and then bondo it.

or you could have a body shop do it, and the likelihood is that they would also be sure to get the door back refinished as well so it doesn't start rusting.

alternator · June 2003

"or you could have a body shop do it, and the likelihood is that they would also be sure to get the door back refinished as well so it doesn't start rusting"

If the body shop can make a cosmetic repair from the front side, I very much doubt they will do anything at all about the back side IMO.

swschrad · June 2003

and would be in a position to thus inspect and deal with the protective coatings.

alternator · June 2003

by drilling a hole, inserting a stiff wire with a crook on the end and pulling. Or, the latest technique is to gain access through a small hole on the back side through which special tools are inserted and used to bump the dent outward without ever seeing the actual back side of the dented area. I am afraid that repairing finishes on the back side of a dent is not a priority for a body shop.

bigfur · July 2003

Basically if your gonna do it yourself, take the trim panel off and see if you can acess the dent from the back. If you can hit it with a block of wood. If you can go down to the local like Checker auto parts or something and see if you can rent a dent puller. i have seen alot of places renting them now. If you use these you will put a hole in the door, do not bondo over the holes, use duraglass...it works much better but is harder to sand. My other question would be what year car is it? if its old enough it might be easier to just get a used door in good shape and swap it out.

roper2 · July 2003

Shop around on windsheld replacement.I called 4 different installers and got a wide range of prices.They were anywhere from 354.00-262.00-300.00-182.00

1koolz · July 2003

Anybody know what I can use to remove a bird **** stain from a 3M clear bra? It's a very small bright yellow stain on the bra, but it really shows up on my white vehicle!

I tried washing it off gently with Dawn, but it didn't budge. The bra is only a few weeks old and I don't want to damage it with chemicals. Any ideas?

jwilson1 · July 2003

1) Contact the installer

2) Try some plastic cleaner such as would be used on the clear plastic windows of a roadster. Several are available & okay.

Good luck. J

ezshift5 · August 2003

front plastic/vinyl (non-metal) bumper-grille of my white Solara.......thanks, ez....

redsox5 · August 2003

Last time I waxed my car, I failed to wipe off some that accidentally got on the plastic door trim. The red plastic now has small white patches along the top and bottom edge. The product was Eagle One wet polish and wax. Can I restore these areas or is it too late?

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