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Volkswagen TDI Models

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Comments

  • bovinesbovines Member Posts: 2
    What is that Old Navy CCV I have read in some forums?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    VagCom is computer SOFTWARE that you install on your laptop. There is a special cable that goes from your laptop to a connector under the dashboard.

    The VagCom software is VERY powerful and one must use care when using it. Engine damage is possible.

    Here is the link to VagCom:
    http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/

    Here are some links to related stuff (a free version of software called "pro-diag")
    http://www.shadetreesoftware.com/downloads/manual.pdf

    http://www.andywhittaker.com/ecu/obdii_hardware.htm

    Here is a PDA-based software:
    http://www.prweb.com/releases/2003/2/prweb57712.php

    If you have the "Climatronic" option, here is some cool stuff you can do with it:
    http://www.b5glx.com/climatronic.html
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    The Old Navy CCV is a Crancase Ventilation Oil Mist Coalescing Filter that you install to reduce oil mist getting introduced into your intake manifold. People are having problems with there intake manifold and other associated passages getting plugged up with soot. Eventually, it will have to be pulled and cleaned. The source of the soot is from 2 places, one is from the EGR gasses being introduced, but when you couple that with the CCV (Crankcase Vent) mist it is a problem. People are looking at a few differant solutions to help prevent this problem. The Old Navy Filter is a Mom and Pop type shop that makes a filter for this application. I just purchased a Reliable Industries Mann&Hummel "Provent 200CCV" filter to remove the oil mist from my CCV line before it goes into the intake manifold. Racor also makes a filter for this application (CCV4500). I also came across one on a Subaru WRX website where they were selling a CCV Filter. Will keep my fingers crossed that this thing works. Some of the pictures posted on Intake manifold pluggage are nasty. Some people are having this problem at < 35K miles, I guess how long you go depends on a # of factors. I wish that Biodiesel was available in CT, I see where the B20 helps delay this problem also.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    The only way to prevent mildew from forming underneath the carpeting is to completely remove it. Its a bit of a job because the seats have to come out but eventually you will end up doing it (the smell will make you). The carpeting has a rubber sound proofing backing that will never allow you to dry out beneath it until it is removed. Good luck.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    I just bought a 2004 TDI Jetta and received the $1,000 customer loyalty rebate. About a year ago we had purchased my daughter a Jetta and it is registered at our address. In order to get this rebate I had to finance $5K which I will pay off after 90 days. The dealers in CT. don't want to discount the TDI Jettas below MSRP. Lagnon VW was the only dealer in CT that would discount $1K below invoice. I see that in other States certain dealers will do the same.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    This website(http://www.dieselgeek.com/golf_iv_main.htm) sells various timing belt packages for the TDI's. Impex Auto sells VW parts (http://www.impexfap.com/). Active Auto Parts (http://www.autopartsauthority.com/replacement/VW~2004~JET-D-003~- parts.html) was another online site for ordering VW parts.
  • deaner14deaner14 Member Posts: 40
    So why does it cost so much today? Isn't it a by-product of gasoline production? Therefore cheaper?

    "Oil companies were obliged to refine so much crude oil to supply gasoline that they were left with a surplus of distillate, which is an excellent fuel for diesel engines and much less expensive than vegetable oils". quote from bio-diesel article below

    http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/oog/info/wohdp/diesel.asp

    This second link is a great article on those considering biodiesel.

    http://www.eia.doe.gov/oiaf/analysispaper/biodiesel/index.html
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    A little off-topic here, but diesel is actually closer to crude than gasoline. Gasoline is a solvent, while diesel is still oil. It requires less refining, but is not a byproduct of gasoline.

    Diesel is very close to home heating oil, and thus its price increase every fall and decrease every spring. Oil companies divert more production of the same base oil to HHO when it's cold, and diesel supplies actually are reduced. Diesel also requires additives in colder weather to prevent gelling and waxing.

    Just to clarify... the distillate mentioned is referring to petroleum, not gasoline - petroleum being crude oil.

    kcram
    Host
    Smart Shopper and Wagons Message Boards
  • bho11bho11 Member Posts: 2
    I have two questions. When I went to the dealer in Santa Fe, NM to try out the Jetta TDI they had added $1K premium to the MSRP and the salesman said all of the dealers do this for the TDI, sounds like BS to me. Are they doing this in other parts of the country? Second question, when does the new model year come out, salesman said next March or April, is this correct? Thanks
  • billmchalebillmchale Member Posts: 107
    Well it depends on what you mean by the premium; the diesel engine version of the Golf/Jetta does cost more than the 2.0L Gasoline version. That being said, if you mean an additional $1k added in addition to what VW says is the MSRP, then it is basically the dealer trying to make a profit on increasing gas prices. I don't think it happens all over the country, but some dealers might be doing it if there are not that many VW dealers in the area and the diesels are popular in that area.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Firstly, a $1k markup over MSRP on a Jetta TDI is not uncommon, depending on the market, but that doesn't mean people actually PAY that price. There is nothing precious or unusual about any Jetta diesel, and a price UNDER MSRP is much more like it.

    On the '06 [based on the new 5th-gen Golf platform], yes, the current word on the street is that the Jetta will be the first one released, probably in the late spring of '05. CAUTION: being an early adapter on a new platform carries risks, especially with a brand like VW that already has plenty of reliability problems to start with. I sure wouldn't be buying this car for at least 12 months after production starts on the new one.
  • ncskibumncskibum Member Posts: 42
    One other thing to remember is that since diesel fuel is still an oil, the backdone can be cracked through high heat distillation and turned eventually turned into gasoline. It depends on the higher demand. This is one of the main reasons that there is usally a shortage of fuel oil in the early fall. Most of the efforts through the summer have been geared towards turning it into gasoline, not stock piling for home heating or diesel fuel.
  • tdijoetdijoe Member Posts: 3
    My 04 has about 1,600 miles on it. I only got 38mpg on one tank of mixed driving. and on another tank all hwy i go 553 miles and it took 13.5 to fill up that is 40.96
    mpg 75-80mph with cruise control most of the time and AC running all the time cause im in FL. Will? When or How will i see 46mpg like it says and so many claim.
    Also i check the oil level between fill-ups it is ok but the oil seems much dirtier than a gas engine is that normal? Will it get more mpg with age.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    These motors seem to take quite a few miles to really break in. It should increase until well into the 5,000-10,000 miles range. 75-80mph with A/C running is also a pretty thirsty zone for a new engine. You also didn't mention which transmission you have. I assume manual because the automatics rarely see much over 40mpg.

    There is also some inaccuracy in fueling if you don't top-off the tank (actually vent the tank and see the fuel up in the neck). Doing this will generally get you another gallon or so (which would make your mpg worse the first time) and will make the tank fills consistent over time.

    The oil color is quite normal for diesel. It has soot in it and will dirty up the oil quickly, however diesel oil is specifically designed to suspend these soot particles so there is no damage. It's good to check the oil level, although I'm lucky to check mine once between 10k mile oil changes. In 90k miles, I don't think it has ever been more than 1/8" from the full mark on 10k mile intervals.
  • tdijoetdijoe Member Posts: 3
    Well thanks for the info. I calculated the mileage by first filling up to the neck let the bubble settle til i felt getting anymore in would be risking a mess. Then drove the tank till 60 miles or so with the light on and i was able to squeeze exactly 13.5 gallons after that trip, hence the 553/13.50 40.96 number. will it only need oil changes as noted in the manuel 5k,10k 20k, etc seems like not enough.
    i thought every 3k for a diesel especially.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Oil changes every 3K miles is only suggested by those that get PAIED to change your oil. It is a waste of time, money and oil.

    The oil in a diesel does get black pretty fast. This is due to SOOT suspended in the oil. Diesel oil is DESIGNED to handle that much soot.

    Just follow VWs recommendatation but MAKE SURE you use the approprate lubricant. (VW 505.01 for your engine) Any other oil will cause engine damage.

    This specific oil is available from VW dealers or from Motul ( http://www.motul.com/uk/produits/index.html )
  • hondanvwhondanvw Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Beetle TDI with 60 K miles and routinely get 42 - 44 mpg in town in heavy traffic and up to 46 on the highway. No complaints there. I have to think that the gas mileage between the Jetta and Beetle should be almost identical.

    Speaking of oil changes, I'm the guy with oil in the intercooler. I have records indicating that I changed the oil on average every 4K miles, but I have one interval of nearly 7K miles (I think I changed it in between there but can't find the receipt.) The dealer indicated that I'd have to produce records showing oil changes with no interval greater than 5K. Do you think I'm hosed on my 100K mile power train warranty???? Any opinions out there? Thanks.

    One last comment. I just got back from Belgiun and my host owns a 2003 VW Sharan minivan with a 1.9 L TDI and automatic transmission. Its as big as a Voyager and was surprisingly peppy. My friend indicated he gets 30+ mpg. Wish we could get that minivan over here!
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    have records indicating that I changed the oil on average every 4K miles, but I have one interval of nearly 7K miles (I think I changed it in between there but can't find the receipt.) The dealer indicated that I'd have to produce records showing oil changes with no interval greater than 5K. Do you think I'm hosed on my 100K mile power train warranty???? Any opinions out there? Thanks.

    The dealers can say anything they want, but that doesn't make them right. Perhaps he just doesn't know (which is quite common for VW dealers). Your owners manual tells you the requirements for that engine, and as long as you can produce records showing oil changes at the specified intervals with the specified oil, they can't deny warranty for that reason. They'll have to dig up some other excuse not to cover it;)

    Has anyone confirmed that this oil in the intercooler is a problem? Most everything internally with these has a nice oily coat to it thanks to the EGR and CCV system. I've never physically looked inside my intercooler, but most all the piping leading to it has some soot/oil in it. Perfectly normal, at least for the way these are designed.

    As for oil change intervals, the manual calls for 10k miles on synthetic oil. I've tested mine a couple times and the oil has never been even close to actually needing changed. Even at 12k miles on one change. I'm running Delvac 1 with an OEM filter.
  • tdijoetdijoe Member Posts: 3
    Well thanks for the info. I calculated the mileage by first filling up to the neck let the bubble settle til i felt getting anymore in would be risking a mess. Then drove the tank till 60 miles or so with the light on and i was able to squeeze exactly 13.5 gallons after that trip, hence the 553/13.50 40.96 number. will it only need oil changes as noted in the manuel 5k,10k 20k, etc seems like not enough.
    i thought every 3k for a diesel especially.
  • bkj48bkj48 Member Posts: 1
    When I look over past messages almost none of them are for the Passat. Why not? I currently own a 2002 GL Passat Wagon and am looking into getting a new Passat Wagon because this one has given me a few problems and the warranty is due to expire. I was thinking of getting a diesal this time. How does the reliability, performance, maintainance costs, and gas mileage compare to the gas powered version? Does the fact the diesal is not available in some states mean that by driving one I would be contributing to air pollution more than if I were driving a gas powered version? Thanks
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    There's a specific thread for the Passat TDI that gets some action. Not a lot of folks have them either! I would check out that forum for more of what you're looking for. As for emissions....well the diesels put off more NOX than a gas car, but usually a lot less CO. The law sets limits on NOX though and you don't get bonus points for not having CO, so the TDI doesn't meet requirements of the CARB states.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I just read your previous post about the intercooler oil, and was wondering exactly what your mechanic meant by "a lot of oil in the intercooler". It's quite normal to have the insides of the intercooler be gunked up with oil. It's not from the turbo, it's from the CCV and the only way to stop it is to bypass the CCV. It's an emissions thing, and you either bypass the CCV or clean the intercooler at regular intervals.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is also well known that the TDI likes "occasional bursts of full-throttle accelleration"

    This does many good things for the engine-systems including blowing most of the oil from the intercooler into the engine. It has also been shown to reduce the "intake plugging" phenomonon on the TDI.

    It has pretty well been established that babying the TDI over 1000s of miles of driving is ASKING for troubles. 2-3 full-throttle accellerations for each tank of fuel is a good rule-of-thumb.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    That is very true, and worth mentioning. To prove this, all you really need to do is baby the motor around for awhile and then nail the pedal hard. All that black smoke/soot coming out the back is what's being cleaned from your intake. If you don't run the car hard enough for this to get blown out, it will build-up and will require repair. Eventually it will build-up enough to drastically effect performance/economy. I run mine quite hard regularly, and have also made some "adjustments" to reduce the intake/intercooler build-up and I recently checked mine. At 90k miles, it still has a very mild build-up, most likely from the first 20k miles where I too was not running the motor as hard and did not have the adjustments made.
  • rotwein1rotwein1 Member Posts: 4
    I get 42.1 running at 75-80 on a trip. 2002 auto trans with A/C on. I saw increases at about 7K and 18K, now at 34K. The 04 gets slightly less mileage.
  • hawghawg Member Posts: 4
    In Canada, a part the warranty is null and void with the chip added. I've talked with an employee at my dealership, who told me that he added the chip after his warranty had expired, and is V. satisfied with it's additional HP and MPG. He also tuned his exhaust system, using straight pipes, and the rear flange (below the bumper) from a gas model - I don't recall which one - to accomodate the pipes. He says it sounds and looks good. Anyone else do this?
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    Another solution to prevent the oil mist from the CCV from getting into your intake is to install a coalescing CCV filter. There are tons of posts with various installation pics on Fred's TDI Club website.
  • joephyzixjoephyzix Member Posts: 1
    When I call for power to get into traffic or change lanes, about 1 in 40 times the engine seems to stagger. I check rpm and it is at idle with accelerator depressed, it has taken up to 2 pumps on the pedal to get the proper response.

    2005 Jetta TDI GL - dealer cannot find problem, and no errors on the computer.

    Any ideas?
  • hvyhvy Member Posts: 8
    i have an o4 golf tdi 1.9 in past readings i have seen info regarding the air snorkel screen clogging up and the need to check it. i recently remove the snorkel however i found no screen like the one from the video \(tdi club) is the new 1.9 airbox-snorkel redesigned,thus no more screen?
    also cold weather starts only outside temp in the 20,s car starts fine but seems to run rough for a few seconds, no drivabilty problems. is this normal for diesel cold starts
  • todd53todd53 Member Posts: 47
    Has anyone installed a K&N air filter in a TDI? I am thinking of installing one in my 04 Passat and was just wondering if I can expect any noticeable difference in acceleration and fuel economy. Please share your thoughts.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I am sure my performance minded friends would disagree, but all indications are the oem product filters better. Not only that, a 10 dollar oem filter lasts 30k and you don't really have to fiddle with it!

    Also the mineral oil used for one part of the filtration process CAN migrate to the MAF which CAN cause problems.

    If you feel the stock "snow" snorkel is too restrictive, believe it or not you can remove it and let the air come in from the bottom corner opening to the air box. Obviously you would have just removed the prophalactic device and its attending "benefits" for what it was designed to do.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I used to buy reusable filters (k&n, amsoil, whatever), and had them on several vehicles. I personally never noticed a power/economy difference, but they usually made the engine more noisy. I bought them for their cost savings.

    I read of some folks stating their wear metals and contaminants increased when they switched to a foam/resuable filter. So I through in an OEM paper filter (in place of the amsoil foal filter I had used for 50k miles) and retested my oil at the next interval. They were right, my wear metals and "dirt" levels were lower than any previous test. Now, previously my oil testing looked fine, everything was perfectly within spec. However, IMHO lower is better and I'll spend the very minimal extra money on the paper filters.
  • hondanvwhondanvw Member Posts: 4
    Sorry for the delay in responding. The mechanic indicated that I had about half a quart in the intercooler. Since that time, though, (mid-summer) I watched my oil consumption closely and it never dipped. I really don't have an explanation for how it got there,

    Having said that though, with the check engine light coming on a few times in the past few weeks, I finally took the car into the dealer. They held the car for 4 working days, checking out a starting problem and looking into the issue raised by the check engine light. Sure enough, the turbo was bad. The service manager indicated the turbo's wastegate was stuck. They replaced the full turbo assembly at no charge to me (would have been $3K). I believe this 10yr power train warranty is on the 0200 and 2001 model yrs only and only extends to the original owner - I feel pretty lucky.

    They did hit me up for $500 to clean the intake and EGR twice - they blamed the starting issues I had recently encountered to massive carbon build-up. He indicated that this is never a problem in Europe and shouldn't be an issue here either in about 18 months when the new diesel fuel formulation rules come into effect.

    Does anyone know if we will have to do anything to our TDI's with the new diesel fuels coming out in 2006?
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Glad to here everything is getting taken care of. Do some research or email me on how to eliminate the EGR issue in the future. It sounds like your fuel/driving habits are contributing to the build-up so I would look into avoiding that again, even with new fuel coming. 18 months could cause quite a bit of build-up again. The new fuel should just make the cars run better, no need to do anything.
  • suveneelsuveneel Member Posts: 1
    New VW Golf-10 miles- Engine Problems < suveneel > 11/20/04 06:54

    I Brought a new VW Gof on 10/22/04 and drove back 7 miles to where i live. after i drove 3 miles the next day the ENGINE MALFUNCTION showed up. I took it back right away (10/23/04) We waited 2 hrs while they fixed the car and went home (7MILES). The very next day(10/24/04)after another 3 miles teh SAME PROBLEM. Since the dealership is closed on sunday. I had to call them on monday and scheduled an appointment for tuesday(10/26/04) and dropped the car off. THey tested and repalced some engine part and told me that i should not have to worry for another year at least.They delivered me the car on Friday (10/28/04) This time the car was problem free for exactly 1-1/2 day. Same problem again on(10/30/04). Then I dropped the car off on 11/01/04 .They called me on 11/3/04 and told me that they would have to replace teh complete turbo component.
    By this time i had completely run out of patience and my excitement of getting a new car.

    So i went to the dealer on 11/03/04 and dropped the keys off and requested a replacement as they clearly haven't sold me a car that works.
    This was a defective car. the only mileage that put on this car is from going backl and forth from the dealers place.
    SO FAR VW USA AND THE DEALER HAVENT BOTHERED TO CONTACT ME ABOUT THE REPLACEMENT OR REFUND FOR THE CAR. I HAVE FAXED MAILED AND CALLED MULTIPLE TIMES BOTH VOLKSWAGEN USA AND THE DEALER. - NO RESPONSE
    THIS IS SINCE 11/3/04.

    Oh by the way the dealership that sold me this peice of junk is
    VW OF SPRINGFIELD, SPRINGFIELD, VA

    and the service manager on 11/19/04 calls and tells me that i can do whatever and they are going to do nothing.

    DO I DESERVE THIS FOR PUTTING 21,000.00 into their hands. I wanted to buy a NEW car & this is my first purchase ever.. please help..

    If any of you know what i should be doing.. let me know.

    I just want to get my money back now, anyone know how to handle this, to qualify for alemon i should use the car and get teh same problem a 4th time. but i dont want to touch the car. remember 10 miles and problems..
    shall appreciate any suggestions or help

    email me neelapala@netscape.net
  • atfatf Member Posts: 8
    I purchased a 05 Passat TDI wagon in September
    an am really happy with it , I have the GLS model with leather and wood ,It rides well and the MPG is 35 in urban low country no hill's to speak of, I have not been on a long trip to see what the MPG would be . My wife drives a Lincoln Town car and I can honestly say that the Interior finish and attention to detail is much better on the Passat, I know I am comparing apples to orange's but well made is well made.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Well, since you posted the question three times, I'll take a crack at it.

    No car manufacturer in the world is going to consider a buyback in the circumstances you describe. Period. You have to give them a reasonable number of chances to fix the car. Three times is, in most states, the bare minimum threshold for consideration under the lemon laws, and in some states, your turbo problem wouldn't qualify anyway.

    As frustrating as it is, and it would be for me, the approach I would take is to get an interview with the General Mgr of the dealership. Tell him/her that you want a loaner while they definitively fix the car. Tell them to take as long as they need, but get it right. In the meantime, consult your state's lemon law rules to be prepared in case you have to take it to the next level.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The Dual-clutch automatic tranny and the electric power-steering.

    From my research, that dual-clutch automatic tranny shifts like an automatic but has the efficency of a manual. It actually has 2 seperate power-paths each with its own clutch. The gear is ALLREADY enguaged and the electronics swaps between the clutches to change gears. It is currently available on high-end Audis.
  • dclmeisterdclmeister Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find your armrest? I just upgraded mine to a leather and have the original cloth (grey) that I would be in the market to sell.
  • lewshellewshel Member Posts: 37
    We have a 2004 Passat V6 GLX bought new in July. Last weekend the engine/emission light went on for no reason and then went off again. I think the gas cap may not have been screwed on tight and this triggered the emmissions control warning light. We tried this and the light stayed on for a day and then went out again.

    We also have a 2003 TDI Golf with 43,000 miles. Only two minor gliches, a sunroof leak (always park with the nose uphill and keep the rubber sunroof drains clear) and a bad AM antenna.All covered by warranty as well as a headlight bulb which went out 2 weeks ago. I get 40 mpg city/50 mpg highway.
    Find another dealer to do the warranty work and read the TDI club info.
  • kgunningkgunning Member Posts: 2
    Hello:
    My wife is the proud owner of a 2004 Jetta TDI. I am so impressed with the car, I am not looking for a Golf TDI or possibly another Jetta. Most of the cars I see for sale are outside California. I need to know what the restrictions, risks and hastles of buying and bringing a car into CA from elsewhere. I called the CA department of Motor Vehicles and go no help. They did say the car has to be a 50 state car! How would I know this.

    My other questions is about 'salvage title' cars. Is this a risk too?

    Any advice welcome,

    Kevin
    Sacramento, CA.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    In theory, the current TDI is simply not legal for sale in California. In practice, my understanding is that you can register the car in CA if it has at least 7500 miles on it. You are not likely to get this response from the DMV - their job is not to make it easier for you to do this. You asked the wrong question - try this one:

    "I'm bringing a used car into CA for the first time, and it is a diesel and not CA-certified. What do I have to do?"

    The car cannot be made to meet current CA regulations, and thus cannot be "certified", as most gasoline cars can. However, when a new resident moves to CA with such a car, they are not generally required to sell the car, as long as it has a certain number of miles on it that "proves" that the car was not purchased out of state just to circumvent the regs.

    Bottom line: Since you are already a CA resident, the hassle factor is indeed considerable. Better to wait until the car meets CA regs [the '06 or '07 model year].
  • kgunningkgunning Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. I guess my hope was that 2004 TDI's where legally sold in CA. We have one so I know that. Therefore, would a 2004 TDI that is from another state easier to bring in. Would a 2003 TDI from Michigan be different from a 2003 TDI sold in CA?

    DMV did say something about checking the VIN # or 50 state sticker? I don't know how to do that when buying from a prvate party.

    Kevin
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    The emissions certification sticker is displayed in the engine compartment, on most cars I've seen as a stick-on somewhere under the hood itself. It has, in every recent car I've ever known, indeed noted whether the drivetrain was CA certified, 50-state legal, or otherwise. So yes, if the '03s and '04s were 50-state cars, it should say so on that sticker, and you should be able to register it without further ado in CA.

    Insist that any PP selling the car take a digital picture of the sticker and send it to you via e-mail, or ask to have the car inspected by an authorized VW dealer before closing the transaction. I would also check with your nearest VW dealer to verify that the car you're bringing in is one they can confirm was originally legal for sale in CA.
  • martyb1martyb1 Member Posts: 6
    I am now on my second jetta, my first was a 931/2 new body style for those days and I drove it to 392000 kms then I got my timing belt changed and the guy wanted to time it a little bit ahead to get more power, I imagine he was just trying something because it basically blew my motor, so I then bought and 98 TDI and I already have 245000 kms and I have never had anything wrong with the engine other than glowplugs which was also a problem on my 931/2 but all in all, it is awesome on ice, through snow and don't get me wrong, I don't BABY this car when it comes to driving it! I do the occasional rally racing with it just for fun and its been through pretty much anything I could think of, yet no problems!! So whats up with the newer ones then! I still get about 53mpg on average with a fillup cost of about 35$. If thats not stunning, what is?
  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    CEL is starting to come on. Checked codes, reports intermittent problems with EGR. My question is: will a gallon of biodiesel in the mix clean out the manifold or do I need to take it apart and manually clean it?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The "heated EGR" on the TDI engine is not desigend for the sulpher-laden fuel that we have here in North America. I am eagerly looking forward to the mandated ELSD (Extremly Low Sulpher Diesel) starring in 2006.

    If your EGR problem is the ol' "intake clogging" issue that all TDIs endure, then there is nothing you can pour into the fuel tank that will magically fix it. Lets not forget that diesel fuel should NEVER be present in the intake manifold.

    Instead of guessing that plugging is your problem, a physical inspection of the intake plenum is trivial to do and will tell you if it needs to be cleaned.

    Do not forget that for the EGR to be flagged as a problem, it only takes a minute difference in the calculated airflow -vs- the actual airflow.
  • archer1archer1 Member Posts: 4
    I finally did it, after much research and test driving. I bought a new 04 Jetta TDI today. It is a GLS with the leather package and automatic. I paid $21,200 plus $369.00 dealer handling. MSRP was $23,400.00 It seemed like a good deal but I could not find alot of information on pricing. Here in Colorado it did not seem like the dealer wanted to deal on the TDI's, regardless of what model you are shopping for. Let me know what you think. Thanks, Bill
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    As long as you're happy with the deal, don't dwell on it! An $1800 discount sounds reasonable though. Congrats and enjoy!
  • tdi_tantdi_tan Member Posts: 60
    CEL is starting to come on. Checked codes, reports intermittent problems with EGR. My question is: will a gallon of biodiesel in the mix clean out the manifold or do I need to take it apart and manually clean it?


    adding B100 doesn't reduce the existing crud in the EGR/intake manifold. It does reduce the it's formation (with less soot). Since B100 is a good solvent, chances are. the B100 added to the tank may clean the lines out and end up clogging the existing fuel filter.

    You'll have to remove the intake manifold to clean it completely (not a fun job). You can use B100 to clean the intake manifold and EGR. Plenty of information at Fred's about it.

    Depending on what part of VA you're you can do to 2 things to mitigate (well 3 things) the crud in the intake:
    1. EGR mod which reduces the exhaust gas recirculated back into the intake (depending on the part of VA you live in, you may not have to worry)
    2. Get something to "filter" out the oil in the ventilated cranckcase air, such as the Mann Provent CCV or something
    3. Use biodiesel to reduce the soot ouput.
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