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Volkswagen TDI Models

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Comments

  • safety51safety51 Member Posts: 9
    I am preparing to begin commuting 200 miles per day. I have been considering the Jetta TDI and a Toyota Corolla. They both obviously are great for fuel mileage. I am aware of the Toyota reputation for long life and dependability but what feedback can I get from VW owners concerning the TDI?
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Throw the mpg/dependability out the window, the Jetta drives extremely nice and has a lot of features that make it enjoyable to live in for 4 hours a day. That's the big difference in my book. The added fuel savings (comparing a 5-speed TDI vs a 5-speed Corolla) of the TDI will likely make up any cost difference if the TDI turns out to need an extra repair or two over the course. It's personally the only econo car I would want to live with. Otherwise, I'd be driving a V6 sedan of some sort to get the comfort/feature factor up to the Jetta level.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Let's see, that micros out to 52,800 miles per year. Divided by 37/50 mpg= 1,427/1,056 gals. Savings of 371 gal per year or x50 mpg =18,550 miles/1546 miles per mo, or x 2.77 gal =$1,028. per year/$86 per mo.

    (Correct me if I am wrong. If I am incorrect, then rerun the correct figures)

    I do not really know what a Toyota Corolla gets in reality, but here is what I have side by side.

    (80/20 freeway/city: 35-1.5 hr, 25 mile x2=50 mile R/T daily commute)

    EPA 29/38, 2004 Honda Civic, range 37-41 commute 37.

    EPA 42/49, 2003 VW Jetta TDI, range 44-62 commute 50

    While I indeed like the Honda Civic, for the commute you mention my OVERWHELMING preference would be for the TDI. You can of course get more like 62 mpg in your commute. Watching paint dry is adrenaline pumping activity compared to trying to get 60-65 mpg and up. BUT that is purely knowing ME. The fact is you can not GET 60-65 in the Honda Civic, where you CAN get it in the TDI.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    So to conclude.

    1. you BE against a 1.8T almost immediately

    2. You BE against a 2.0 in app 1 year

    3. You BE against a Honda Civic (12600 vs TDI 18,000)
    in 5.3 years.
  • insiinsi Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for your reply.

    I think I will be getting FSI 2.0T 143kw engine instead of diesel because the TDI only comes with 103kw and I feel it is not enough power to get it going especially if I am buying the estate wagon.

    But TDI still in my mind because of longer km to travel per tank and since it is less power it is cheaper too compare to 2.0T FSI.

    I am disappointed with VW Australia they are not bringing 125kw TDI and some of the features not as much as I expected.

    Maybe getting Accord Euro (Accura TSX) instead, because leather, power front seats, sunroof, xenon and fog light already standard and cheaper AUS$4000 compare to 2.0T.
    What do you think?

    Thanks.
    Iwan
  • safety51safety51 Member Posts: 9
    I agree with your #'s but, TDI msrp = $24,000 Corolla msrp = $16,000. In order to make up the difference in costs, I would have to drive the TDI for 7 years @ 50,000 mi/yr or 350,000. I don't think that is practical. The other consideration I have to take into account is, will the tdi last at least a year (50,000) longer? If so, forget the msrp difference because I just drove an extra year before a new purchase. Thanks for the feedback
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Are you comparing apples to apples on those prices? A fairly well equipped TDI looks closer to $21,000. Either way, the TDI will always be worth significantly more than a Corolla so you can't write-off the entire difference up-front.

    My '00 TDI with 130k miles currently books for about $4,000 more than a somewhat similar Corolla.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    "TDI msrp = $24,000 Corolla msrp = $16,000"

    The essential issue seems to be buy two @ 16,000 per or 32,000 vs one at 24,000. And is it reasonable to project one will go in effect a min of twice as long.

    Let's see, if I might say, your mileage can be considered EXTREME. Another way to look at it is at the 7 year mark do you anticipate still having the requirement for the 50k plus per year? Again if so and having one car to do it, I would still chose the TDI.

    So for example, we have a requirement for a 18k commute plus 28k for a 46k per year. The only reason we got the Civic was the wife was tired of (wanted auto) shifting, but still wanted good mpg, or as best as possible. My goal and time horizon was and still is 500k -1M for the TDI. So I guess the real question is what is the time/mileage horizon for the Toyota Corolla for you? (for the Civic it is 250,000 plus)
  • safety51safety51 Member Posts: 9
    Good arguments that are swaying me in a direction that I was already leaning. I had a typo on the msrp of the Toyota. Similar equipment, Jetta msrp = $24,200 Toyota msrp = $17,199. I plan to discontinue this commute within 5 years.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Also if this is a bit too deep, let me know and I will cut it off. However since you anticipate doing 250,000 miles in 5 years, it would help you further decide based on the logistics. I mean stuff like oil and filter changes, fuel filters, cabin filters, brake pads, rotors, tires, balancing, alignments, timing belt, water pump, changes, bearings, strut/shocks, /strut/shock hardware.
  • jkinzeljkinzel Member Posts: 735
    Safety51 My hat goes off to you. A 200 mile a day commute? I hope that is round trip. I commute to work once a month, stay 15 days and return. My commute time each way is 35 minutes so it is not much of a problem. Tomorrow I have to drive to Seattle and that will be about 90 minutes one way IF the traffic is normal, what ever that is. I’d almost rather put a bullet in my foot than drive to Seattle on I-5. :cry::cry: OK, Im spoiled :blush: Coming home should be good for two hours. :sick: If it snows as predicted, I may never get home, well maybe Friday morning early. :sick:
  • safety51safety51 Member Posts: 9
    I actually made this commute for 8 years. For the past 4 years, I have gone back and forth only on weekends. Since the daughter was married, wife has decided it is too lonely during the week so guess what? If there is anything good about my commute it is lack of traffic, can make the trip in an hour and 40 minutes. Have to be on the lookout for deer though.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Given your 8 years and app 425,000 mile commute, what are some of the statistics and tools you used to execute 50k plus miles per year?
  • safety51safety51 Member Posts: 9
    Not sure what you are asking for with tools and statistics. One tool is a strong back (used to be before 3 episodes with the surgeon)I drove Saturns, Pontiacs and Fords. That is why I am now considering the Jetta. It seems to be much more comfortable and have good lumbar support.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I meant how many miles did you put on what vehicles. How did they hold up. What kind of scheduled and unscheduled maintenance did you do,etc.
  • safety51safety51 Member Posts: 9
    Here is the break-down
    Chevrolet S-10 50,000 (new engine, 2 transmissions)
    Saturn sw2 60,000 (very uncomforatble for 6'2")
    Pontiac Sunfire 175,000 ( no problems, wanted something new, bad decision)
    Ford Focus ZX3 60,000 ( gave to daughter on 16th B-day)
    Ford Ranger 75,000 ( traded for F150 when I discontinued daily commute)
    4,000 mile oil/filter change interval, for automatics I complied with all service recommedations.
    If I thought I could find another Pontiac that would give me the service that I got out of the last one, I would but feel that the previous one was an exception.
  • mikep5mikep5 Member Posts: 1
    I'm trying to hook up trailer lights on an 03 TDI wagon. Anybody know how to remove the plastic tray behind the spare tire? I'm trying to find the best spot to run the wires thru to the hitch area. I'm using the lighting adapter from Hidden Hitch. Any advice?
    tia,
    mp
  • bobjoe16bobjoe16 Member Posts: 1
    have had the same problem at about the same mileage vw dealer could not figure it out (in warranty)after 3 injector pumps, misc other parts,6 months etc. I am retired mercedes tech. I finally pulled engine cover and started checking and found air bubbles going up fuel line when engine running, fuel line uses o-rings to connect fuel lines together, designed for gas cars they suck air when heavy diesel is pulled past them and they are worn slightly (worse when hot). check for bubbles there should not be any, if present, replace the fuel line o-rings where the lines clip together. you will need a fuel line tool for this. kd makes 1 for fords etc. that works fine!
    hope this helps. interested if anyone else has seen this problem
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    So simple, yet the parts changers at the dealership were not able to find the trouble. Our eyes are still the best tool we have. Along with common sense.

    Thanks for the tip and welcome to the forum...
  • hvyhvy Member Posts: 8
    currently own 2004 vw golf with 57,000 miles. no problems excellant vehicle. question i have is what to expect with the new low sulfur diesel fuel thats expected to come out. i heard problems relating to seals etc going out.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The Diesel fuel in USA has been "Low Sulfer" for many years. I assume your concerns are about the "Extremely Low Sulfer Diesel" (ELSD)

    You can put your concerns to rest... the VW engines are DESIGNED to run on ELSD in Europe. Your VW will run BETTER when fed with the fuel it is desinged for. (less emmissions, less smoking, less intake-plugging....etc) In fact, a lot of the problems that folks have with TDIs in USA are linked to the exxcessive sulfer in our cr@ppy fuel.

    I have NEVER EVEN HEARD about concerns with "seals" (whatever that means). I am curious, what kind of "seals" are you talking about? How can the LACK of unwanted sulfer affect anything? (except in a positive way)
  • hvyhvy Member Posts: 8
    yes i meant the new extremely low sulfer. in regards to seals i was referring to the fuel leaks. also are there going to be problems with fuel lubricity problems
  • stetsonhatterstetsonhatter Member Posts: 16
    I have a 2002 Jetta GLS Wagon TDI,auto and leather. I only have 29,800 miles on it and it's in great shape. My purchase option is $11,700. Here's my dilemma-- do I buy it, knowing it's worth more than I'd pay or turn it in on another lease (Passat has a great deal now)? I'm in "repair averse" and am concerned about the car going out of warranty in a month. My dealer's service is not great and I have no mechanic otherwise that I trust. Are there any issues I should think about? Potential expenses coming down the road? I'm worried about the annual shift lock sensor repair I've had, brakes,tires,window switches, what else?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    As I said before, I have not heard of any "seal" issues causing leaking on the millions of TDIs that VW has sold in Europe. There is no reason to think that your TDI would exibit any "seal" issues.

    As for lubricity, I ALWAYS add 6oz of diesel additive at evey fillup. Not only does additive improve the lubricity, it also adds the all-important CETANE which noticibly improves MPG and quiets the engine. If you are worried about lubricity, just put in some additive. You will be rewarded with a better-running engine.
  • vchuckvchuck Member Posts: 2
    How do you check the automatic transmission oil levelBy accident the bung for the transmission oil was pulled and about a cup of transmission oil came out. Now I would like to check my transmission oil level. Does anyone know how I do this? Any help would be appreciated.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Checking the automatic xmission fluid level REQUIRES a computer hooked up to your car to determine fluid temperture and other criteria. If you do not have the equipment, see a reputable VW dealer.
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    You would need Vagcom (check "http://www.ross-tech.com/products.html")in order to check this yourself. Vagcom allows you to check data in your car's computer. In Vagcom, select 02- Auto Trans, then measuring block #8, then group #5 field #1. That is the temperature of your tranny fluid in degrees celcius. To start you should be about 30 degrees celcius. There is a plug on the side of the transmission that gets removed to check the fluid level. Somewhere between 35 degC and 45 degC tranny fluid should drip out of this plug. If that happens your level is OK, if you get to 45 degrees C and no fluid, you add until it does come out. VW has a small container with a hose and a wand for adding fluid. The plastic container gets pressurized and the wand has a small valve to admit fluid. Looking at the Bentley manual, it looks like you add through a fill plug and it says to replace seal any time it is removed. They sure do make this process difficult huh? I'll take a simple dipstick any day. I just hope that my level never changes, even though I have Vagcom this still looks like a PITA.
  • vchuckvchuck Member Posts: 2
    Thanks a bunch for your info. Wow nothing easy about that. Might be the best idea to take it to Volkswagon & have them check it. But thanks for all the time taken to explain it so well and will keep on this info on file.
  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    OK guys, I need the collective wisdom on this one. Belt went on my 1.9L ('02 Jetta). Why I'll leave for another post. What I need know now is what to ask, what to beware of, what to expect if I replace the engine. Car was bought used with 46K. I've done the scheduled maintainance on schedule.
    Particular issues; how do I determine how much of the engine can be salvaged? Use dealer or regular repair shop? Buy engine myself or let mechanic buy? What kind of warranty can I expect?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You should be able to "salvage" much of the engine. It is likely that the HEAD and everything in it (valves) are junk. Also expect to have some damaged pistons.

    You really need to do some research on this. Installing another engine *may* be more cost effective given all the labor of rebuilding the engine might entail.

    Here is a link to a place that sells TDI ENGINES

    OK--- now PLEASE tell us why the timing belt would break at such a low milage.
  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    Belt went at 130K. I had the dealer do an 80K service at that interval. Part of the specified maintainance in the manual is to change belt and tensioner. They didn't. When I pointed this out to the service manager his response was that was a year and a half ago and why didn't I ask at the time? (Because you expect people to do what the manual says to do). Claimed VW does not warranty belts.
    VWA is not giving me warm and fuzzies either.
    OK, what I need a reality check on...dealer is asking $3400 to replace the head. I presume (deadly word - need to ask) that his includes belt, tensioner, stretch bolts and the rest. In the ball-park? OBTW - they said nothing about warranting the work. Another item to ask about.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I'd have the vehicle towed away from the dealer and do your best to find a good private mechanic that knows TDI's. Your dealer wants all the money in the world and are obviously inept to begin with. With very few exceptions, VW dealers suck when it comes to TDI's. And their prices are out of touch with reality. These vehicles are very cheap to own/maintain IF you do the work yourself or find a good independent mechanic. The guy I use to service my TDI charges $350 for a timing belt change and it's done right. How much did that dealership charge for their incompetent work at 80k miles?
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    Your dealer wants all the money in the world

    I wanted to get rid of my wife's Lexus LS400 until we found a competent independant shop. Most foriegn dealerships are a giant RIP-OFF!!!
  • pusterracingpusterracing Member Posts: 186
    "Your dealer wants all the money in the world

    I wanted to get rid of my wife's Lexus LS400 until we found a competent independant shop. Most foriegn dealerships are a giant RIP-OFF!!!"

    I agree, I take both of my TDIs to an independent auto repair shop that not only specializes in German auto (hence their name...German Concepts) but also makes sure that they have a mechanic on staff at all time that is specifically trained to deal with automotive diesels (pretty much just MB and VW). I feel really comfortable with them, and the ONLY thing they do not do on my VWs is warranty work (which unfortunately has to be done at the dealer).
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    All of the talk about oil changes and making sure that the proper VW spec oil is used, got my curiosity up about my dealer. The following story is true and a bit scary, espcially when one should believe that the dealers know the vehicles the best!

    I contacted my dealer and asked 3 questions: 1. What brand & weight of synthetic oil is used for an oil change to my '05 Passat TDi; 2. Why does the window sticker always 'remind' me to come back in 3,000 miles; and 3. Why did you decide last oil change to install an MOA oil additive ( Ihave had a TDi since '02, and had never seen this before)?

    I talked with service advisor #1 who was basically unknowledgeable. She told me she had "no idea what brand of oil they used, but was certain it was correct". As for the window sticker, the guys who change the oil work "on auto-pilot" and since most cars require a return between 3K and 5K miles, they just write that down without regard for the unique 10k interval of the TDi. As for the MOA additive, she did not know why that was installed, but doubted it would hurt anything. I thanked her for the info, and asked for the name of the service manager (and left him a message for a call back).

    Before I go on with the rest of the story, let me share my position on a few things. 1. I expected a better answer on the oil brand issue, especially since the VW oil spec is so specific and there are few oils that meet all of the conditions. 2. Mistakes happen, so I expect the person who just installed synthetic oil in my car to know that they won't need to see me again for 10K. The whole 3K sticker thing raises concern that perhaps they mistakenly put dino-oil in my TDi, and that engine damage could occur. It is a confidence issue to me (did they do it right??). 3. The manual is crystal clear - use of oil additives is not recommended and may void the engine warranty. I have read many horror stories about oil usage in the 1.8T and the difficulty people encountered with warranty work for sludge issues. Oil intervals in the manual were used by some dealers to not perform warranty work. Therefore, it annoys me that they would ignore part of the manual and take it upon themselves to put in an additive that is not required or recommended (and is in fact mentioned as a warranty voider).

    The service manager did not call me back, but passed me onto service advisor #2. On the oil brand question, he also did not know. He told me that the service tech goes into parts, and they "set the dials on the oil dispenser" and that the parts guys know exactly what is called for by VW and are certainly setting things correctly. I asked for the brand again, and he said "it is VW pumpadiesel", a special oil sent to them by VW. I verified this with him, and asked for the spelling (listed above). On the sticker question, he also mentioned "auto-pilot" as the reason, and told me to just make sure I know when it is due again (the confidence issue did not seems to make any point with him). And on the additive, he told me that was one service advisor who used to work for Ford, and they used that in their oil changes for diesel trucks. Not exactly confidence building...

    So, I spoke with a parts guy to find out how the "dials are set". Finally someone who knew the TDi!! He told me that the synthetic oil is not in barrels, but is in containers and is Castrol 5w-40 and meets VW spec. 505.xx (I was writing and missed the ending #). My confidence was slightly restored. I asked about the additive, and he said that it was sort of a renegade service advisor who was putting this into cars on his own initiative. At least it was included in the price of the oil change - $52.95. I avoided the sticker question with him.

    3 days later, I get a letter from the dealer and think it may be a follow-up. Instead it informs me that the dealer (a very large multi-brand dealer) is dropping the VW line at the end of April. They say they "they will be able to continue service of your VW vehicle" at the Ford facility (oh no), but if I have warranty work I will need to go to an "authorized VW dealership". I have already found a small local dealer (they only work on northern european cars, especially VW and Audi) and plan to become a customer of theirs.

    Sorry for the long entry. To me, this proves that the service people, despite all of the training and flashy plaques on the walls of their cubicles, need to better understand how to meet the needs of the TDi crowd. It is the dealers of VW that are driving the brand to submission.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    It is the dealers of VW that are driving the brand to submission.

    100% agree with that. While I may put-up with some nonsense just because I love the TDI, there's no reason someone else would. And I'd never put up with it for a gas powered VW. The cars themselves really aren't that bad, but many of the dealers are as accomodating as the mafia.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    mjrette, it's probably obvious to you, but you really need to strongly consider finding a different/better service place to have your VW service work done. your saga makes me appreciate my local VW dealer all the more. they are total experts with the TDIs.
  • anointedhelpanointedhelp Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2005 PASSAT GLS TDI which I purchased in 9/2005. At a "new car" clinic offered by my local VW dealer, I was told that I need to winterize my diesel fuel and that it would be a good practice to add a diesel fuel conditioner once per quarter. I can purchase this conditioner at the dealership but I haven't seen it at Autozone. The only brand they recommend is Stanadyne Performance Formula All Season Diesel Fuel Conditioner #ZVW340 002. I don't recall this recommendation being made in the owner's manual. What do you guys think? Is anyone doing this and does it really make a difference? I think they're out to get more of my money. :confuse:
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    You don't state where you operate the car during winter, so I would say another product to consider is the Primrose 409S product.

    ..."DESCRIPTION: Flow-Master allows diesel engine operation with No. 2 diesel fuel in subzero weather without the problems caused by fuel gelling."...

    At best it has a 1 qt treats 250 gal ratio (32 oz/128 oz per gal) or 1 to 1000 dilution ratio @ 6 per qt.

    For further 411 you might want to check the Primrose web site. Here it is if it is not disallowed.

    http://www.primrose.com/Pcatagories/fueltreat.htm
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    i only use a diesel fuel conditioner when the temperature gets below 10 degrees Fahrenheit. this happened a few times during the winters i had a 2003 jetta TDI. but it hasn't happened since i traded the jetta (60k miles) for a 2005 passat TDI 11 months ago (35k miles already).
    i don't use stanadyne - instead i use powerservice "white bottle".
    with the jetta i noticed that it ran smoother and with less smoke at startup if the conditioner was in there. but maybe that was the placebo effect. less smoke is actually a disadvantage for me since i tend to use "sooties" to keep the tailgators away.
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    Agreed! Now that they have 'given up" the VW store in Concord, I will be forced to drive to Manchester or Laconia to get warranty service. And, I will have to find out what level of service I will find at those dealerships (have not been there). That is why the small independent garage that specializes in Northern European cars (VW & Audi) will be my next choice for maintenance that is not covered by warranty.
    :mad:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    VW has been recommending Stanadyne since at least the year 2000. Here is a link to the official VW notice that went out to the dealers.

    http://users.adelphia.net/~peebsrus/3093Stanadyne.pdf

    BTW: You ask if it would "make any difference" The answer is an unequivial YES!! The use of an antigell is MANDITORY in the winter for any Diesel engine.

    In the summer, it is a good idea to use a fuel additive too. (not for antigell) If you can boost the cetane about 5 points, you WILL notice a differnece. (quiter engine, better MPG and less smoking) Given that the fuel-pump is about $1000 part... the additive provides all-important lubrication to the fuel which helps protect that expensive part.

    Personally, I use the "Power Service" additive available at Wallmart. (Grey bottle in summer and white bottle in winter.) I add about 6oz at EVERY fillup.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    mrjete - tulley in nashua is my vw dealer - total TDI experts. maybe worth the extra 15 minute drive from manchvegas to nashua!
    as for additive being "mandatory" in winter, i think that is way wrong. it's not mandatory at all, and i know everything about everything! ;)
    like i said, i find it using powerservice winter formula to be nice when the temps are 10F or below. am i doing long term damage to the engine by not using additives above 10F? i doubt it but probably will never know - i've never kept a car beyond 100k miles. maybe i'll keep this passat TDI for longer than that though.
    on the downside, now that temps have gone above 50F , the dreaded passat TDI "shudder/hesitation" has returned sometimes. i guess i'll avoid it by running in a lower gear. also i have such a heavy foot , that avoids the shudder - except when i do lift-throttle after reaching whatever cruising speed, 60 or 80 mph depending on traffic.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    This may have nothing to do with nothing, but I have never experienced the dreaded shudder with my 2004 Passat TDI. Except for a couple fill-ups during a round trip to CA, I've used an additive with every fill-up since 07/04.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (elias)I know you were being somwhat humorous when you quoted me... but you really should quote the words I used instead of somthing else... I said that an antigell was MANDITORY.... Perhaps you are not aware that ALL diesel fuel sold in cold climates has an antigell added to it before you buy it.

    If an antigell was not added, the diesel fuel would most certanly plug up your fuel filter and starve the engine of fuel.

    The downside is that antigell is most often just kerosene. The use of kerosene in diesel fuel has several drawbacks. Some of them are;
    *) Less lubrication to the expensive fuelpump
    *) Lower cetane (less BTUs available in the fuel)

    Using an additive DESIGNED for diesel fuel contains components that do not have these negitive factors on your engine.
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    Thanks for the advice on Tulley, elias. If I am going to venture into southern NH or northern MA, a few extra miles for really good service should not matter!

    I still plan to go with the local independent mechanic for routine maint., and will use the dealer for warranty work only. Plus, i am waiting to see if a new dealership opens in Concord or if another dealership nearby accepts the VW brand.
  • deaner14deaner14 Member Posts: 40
    On my way to work Friday the Generator light (battery light) came on in my '02 Jetta. I checked the engine compartment when I got to work and found my serpentine belt rather loose and a multi-ribbed belt pulley sitting on the bottom of my skid plate. I looked at the inside of the pulley and noticed that most of the roller bearings are either fused to the sides or gone. There's a black plastic cap on the exterior(?) of the pulley.

    I have no idea where it broke/dislodged from and was hoping someone could help me locate a diagram for the serpentine belt. That way I could tell if the point where this pulley was mounted also needs to be fixed/replaced.

    Also, any advice on how to re-install this component would be greatly appreciated (and/or if I should petition my local VW dealership to do the work gratis). I have ~105k miles on the car.

    Not sure if I can safely drive the car at this point either. A one way drive to the dealership would be about 30 miles.

    Thanks

    Deaner
  • pruzinkpruzink Member Posts: 112
    At 105K miles, I don't see why any dealer would consider doing this repair gratis, that is just normal wear and tear on moving parts. Just out of curiosity, have you had your timing belt changed? On the ALH engine, the pulley to the far left (facing the engine from the passenger side) is the crankshaft. Just to the right of the crankshaft pulley is a smaller tensioner pulley, just to the right of that pulley is the generator pulley, just below the generator pulley is an idler pulley, below the idler pulley is the Air Conditioner compressor pulley, the pulley at the top is the power steering pulley.
    Odds are that it is your belt tensioner pulley. It's fairly common for the springs in belt tensioners to break. Depending on how the spring breaks, the pulley can start bouncing against the belt and things won't last long that way. When I do a timing belt at 100K miles, I also replace the serpentine belt, the idler pulley, and the tensioner pulley.
    I really suggest that same logic on doing the timing belt as it also has a tensioner pulley, any idler pulleys, plus the water pump. Its just so much work to go taking all that stuff apart that I want to be sure that all of it will last another 100K miles. Unlike the serpentine belt where a component failure leaves you stranded, a component failure on your timing belt train will leave you a ruined engine (all diesel engines are interferance engines).
    As far as driving 30 miles to a dealer without a serpentine belt. Obviously you won't have any power steering, AC, or a generator (all of which you could probably do without if you battery is fully charged). I would be concerned about the loose belt getting caught in something and would probably feel better completely removing it (I guess the only pulley that will be turning without a tensioner is the crankshft pulley). Good luck.
  • deaner14deaner14 Member Posts: 40
    had the timing belt changed at 95K and all was replaced.

    Did some investigation with some (alot) of assistance and the pulley directly attached to the alternator was broke. So, the alternator has been pulled. I couldn't see how the new pulley could be pressed on when we had such a difficult time getting the rest of the collar off.

    Off to the dealership to get the parts tomorrow....

    Thanks for the advice.

    Deaner
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    What you are describing is the tensionor pully for the serp. belt. Since it drives the alternator, that is why the light came on.

    If it is any consolation, yours is not the first tensionor-pully that has failed.

    Since the waterpump is driven from the TIMING belt (not serp. belt) It *may* be possilbe to drive a short distance.... just keep in mind that ALL of your electronics are being powered by the BATTERY... once the battery is depleated, it will quit running because the fuel-pump will stop pumping.

    The main things driven from the serp. belt are;
    alternator
    AC compressor
    Power Steering pump
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