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Comments
I've never used the vac method just because I like to crawl under the car and make sure everything looks good, no leaks, etc. And with 10k mile intervals, it's good to do an inspection every time.
There are at least two indicators that show it to not be a reasonable worry.
1. Look at the dry sump quantity specification vs the oil change specification. BIG difference, i.e., an oil change does NOT get ALL the oil out.
2. There is a noticable difference in dipstick level based on whether or not you follow the oem specified oil level checking procedure vs i.e. overnight.
So as soon as you get the engine up to operating temp it almost guarentee's some oil will remain (in addition to the differences in dry sump vs oil change quantity)
OR if you "cold drain" the oil you will have more in the sump to drain out but almost NO oem recommends a cold drain.
I use a Mity VAC, but almost any one will work just fine.
I've used my Pela oil extractor on four different car and after the first attempt on each, I crawled underneath and pulled the drain plug, just to see how much oil remained in the pan (if any). In all four cases, pulling the plug yielded a drip or two and that was it. The flip side is that the oil "sucked" out came with far more sump bottom deposits after that first change than was typical. After a few usages of the pump the amount of solids started declining. What that means to me is that the suction is actually picking up solids that would otherwise simply remain in the bottom of the sump when draining the oil via the conventional method.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Please look in your owners manual for the correct VW specification, VW 502.00 OR whatever your owners manual REALLY says!!!! And tell them that is the oil you want!!! So take it back! Unless you see the correct specification number on the Castrol 5w50 oil, the chances are it is the WRONG oil.
The 5w40 is probably the correct oil, BUT since VW specifications have changed SO MUCH since my 2003, the best is to look it up in YOUR specific owners manual to be ABSOLUTELY sure.
*Jess
I notice your recommendation for the Mobil 1 product. The AMSOIL website specifically recommends their products: oil, filter, trans fluid, brake fluid, filters, etc.
Do you have an opinion about this company?
I'll be taking delivery of a 2006 TDI Jetta in July/August.
Jay
Best Regards,
Shipo
And what would you expect the Amsoil website to recommend???
My new job requires me to do a 90 mile round trip commute and my 03 BMW is getting pretty expensive to drive here with $3.50/gal gas. Reading about this Jetta TDI has gotten me very excited but after calling 5 different dealers in socal NONE have one in stock as they won't make them until '08 model year. I'd like to buy one new. My parents own a 2nd home in Arizona where you can still get a TDI. What can I do do get one of these cars before the STOP making them in september?
Nobody knows if it will be a full year until they release the new 08's or could be six months. VW has the 06 TDI Jetta's, but they are selling them as fast as they get them.
I don't read this to be a Tammy Wynette like: "Stand By Your Oil" type of verbiage.
My take is that if you use Castro 505.01 spec oil, they will immediate begin warranty proceedings after say an oil analysis.
My comment was not meant to offend, but was meant to ask you if you would expect their website to recommend another manufacturers product? It appeared you put a lot of faith in Amsoil's recommendations! Just because Amsoil recommends a product, does not necessarily mean it meets the vehicle manufacturers recommendations.
I really have no opinion of Amsoil's products, so I was trying to inject a bit of objectivity into the discussion.
That is part of the problem. You cannot use the same oil in the VW TDI PD as the other TDI engines. Why would you want to take a chance with non specific oil when the manual specifies a certain type? It is not worth the hassle. Most people buy into the VW TDI knowing they have to use special oil that is not available in your local WalMart.
The actual torque is 18# ft of torque if you care to be precise. There is a special tool: cap wrench. Or you can get those multi sized plastic types or use a strap wrench.
In lieu of 18# ft of torque, some folks just tighten it enough to be able to remove it the next time.
We had a MB 300D (non turbo) in the family at one time. Since the dealership was a client at the time, the maintainance was done by them. The car has long since been sold.
I am truly amazed at the new TDI technologies.
Ridicously priced Jetta in CA Doesn't even come with Navi!
These cars sell for more used than new in other states. 10 grand buys alot of gas over the civic.
to that california dude , supposedly an exemption to the buy-new-tdi rule is if you drive a crapbox out of state and it just happens to break down in front of the TDI dealer. you get TDI dealer to sign a thing that crapbox has died and would cost more to repair than it's worth. then you bring that document and your new TDI to CA DMV and they let you register it! or so i've heard.
Selling your Passat TDI is easier than you think. I had dozens of calls with sad voices on the other end when I told them the first person bought it cash.
Mine was about as loaded as they come. GLS with Leather, 17" wheels with the MX4 tires. I bought it to sell. I paid about a grand under invoice April of 2005. I kept it out of parking lots as much as possible so it had no door dings. I had two people tell me I sold it too cheap. Never heard that before.
I think with your sedan without leather you could get $26k pretty easily. You are very close to the 50k mile warranty and that may scare a few buyers. If you like the car and will be getting something to replace it you may be better off keeping it. I miss mine, at times. I also like having the $29k back in the bank and no insurance premium to pay. For me the insurance premium will pay for my PU truck gas for the year. I wanted to see for myself how the VW TDI cars ran. I would buy again if the prices were right. I can see me getting a Beetle with the DSG transmission and TDI. My wife likes the Beetle.
hmm, maybe Georgia is not where you got your name here and you are indicating your preference for wheat beer over annheuser busch rice beer.
coincidence re your wife's beetle idea: my wife test drove beetle TDI DSG last week - we take delivery in a few days.
Now, the fuel-filter housing is full of fuel and ready to go.
on the other hand, my ideas above are so basic that i'm surprised the two shops you tried already apparently have not considered starter/solenoid.
*)no start condition exibits low batty is cause
*)Jumper cables will recharge the battery enough for engine to start OK.
*)Battery is "dead" again after a few days
*)Dealer has checked battery itself to be OK.
Your description is CLASSIC condition of the charging system not working up to snuff. I have a charging-system checker from Wallmart (under $20) that plugs into the ciggerete-lighter socket. It allows me to monitor the actual voltage of the system under all driving conditions.
I would suggest you invest in one of these things and make sure that the voltage is AT LEAST 13.5 Volts at all times the engine is running (even when lights are on)
I am thinking you will find the voltage is too low under some conditions thus the battery is discharging. This can be caused by several factors from a slipping belt or poor connection somwhere...to a faulty alternator.
To answer your question more directly. If you "let the comprossor fail" it will likely distribute metal particals throughout the AC sysem. If these are not dealt with, they can quickly destroy a new compressor.
Most HVAC experts will tell you that when a compressor fails, the entire system needs to be 'flushed' and the accumulator/dryer should be replaced. (because most of the metal particals end up in it)
Thanks,
Chintan Talati
Corporate Communications
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