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Comments
All the UOA's on my 2001 Toyota Echo had single digit (or zero) numbers for all the important metals and other oil suspended particles. This for OCI's between 15 and 18k miles!
The numbers were essentially the same as UOA's for 3k miles without the special filtering.
Here is an example: http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB3&Number=2257- - 89&Searchpage=2&Main=225779&Words=highmiler&topic=&Search=true#Post225789
Only copper was 10 after 11k miles!
The big question is, will the timing chain survive that kind of mileage? Or is it the water pump, the alternator or some other accessory item that will go first?
I never had to replace anything, not even a light bulb on my Echo. I sold it with 200k miles because I wanted (not needed) a new car.
I did, however, quite a bit of preventive maintenance like ATF and coolant drain and fill on a yearly basis. Belts and spark plugs every 2 years.
If I understand your post, since you sold it; the question is now academic?
I meant my 2007 Sentra.
The alternator and water pump are truly consume able items with higher mileage cycles. I would replace only when it fails. But...
In the VW TDI (A4) for example, it makes sense to change the (app 60 dollar or less) water pump at the 100k mile timing belt change as most of the cost is labor (on the A4 model-due to the design) and the labor cost to change the water pump out at the timing belt cycle is a minor percentage. On the A3 model, since the water pump is not an intergral part of the design, changing out a water pump at 100k makes NO sense, as it can easily last 250,000 miles.
So on the 2007 Sentra, you will need to determine if the water pump is out of line or in line designed.
I will find out.
For this odd problem, perhaps you may want to try the TDI club
clogged fuel-return-line.
It is not uncommon to get a small airleak in a fuel line. Most of the time, it is harmless or you may observe som airbubbles in the clear fuel line between the filter and the Injectionpump. It is possible that the Injectionpump can "suck air" and the engine would stall out.
One easy thing to try is to simply replace the fuel-filter and MAKE CERTAIN that all the hoseclamps are snug and BOTH of the O-rings are installed properly and in the correct location. (The 2 O-rings appear to be the same but are intended to be installed in different locations.)
I am thinking by doing the above, the stalling problem will be resolved.
Hope this helps.
Pete
As for the "cutoff" with the brakes on... you are only partually correct. It is actually a specific RPM limit when brakes are applied.
To prove it to yourself, try this -- while sitting in neutral put left foot on the brake pedal and then use right foot to bring engine RPM up... you will notice that the engine WILL NOT GO PAST a specific RPM while the brake is applied.
I still would replace the fuel filter if it were my TDI stalling. It would be a cheap way to "shotgun" the problem with more than 60% chances of success.
Mine has 109HP and 178 ft.lbs torque and up to 42MPG @ 80 MPH - and it's plenty fast. Lucky 07 TDI shoppers, the 08 1/2 Jetta TDI will have 140HP and nearly 200 ft.lbs torque and better mileage. I wish I could have waited.
I have never been "wanting" for more power in my 2003 TDI. I "drive the torque curve" and it can outperform many other cars... especially passing power.
Not too many areas in the continental USA exceeds the altitudes of the Rocky Mountains. Literally the TDI runs like a mountain goat in this performance parameter and range. (forgive the juxtapositions of metaphors here) The nexus of course if it can run well there, almost anywhere else is by definition: "down hill".
I was amazed at the mpg going from sea level to 6500 feet. I was particularly amazed from 6500 feet to 2000 feet!! 584 miles, 12.1 gals, travel time 6.25 hours, @ 48.26 mpg!!!!! It is amusing to get those surprised quizzical looks from V8 drivers during pull away.
(Durango, CO to Las Vegas NV, for those who want to mapquest)
http://www.laplatadiscount.com/Durango/Reference/tips.html
..."Did you know? About three-quarters of the nations land above 10,000 feet is in Colorado. Estimates place more than half of Colorado above 5,280 feet."...
Yet in listening to folks who have these types of machines in Europe; such as Alltorque's Skoda examples, it becomes apparent that the USA market get the "less powerful version" (90 hp vs 100 to 110 hp). They also get another gear, (6 speed vs 5 speed)that can also wring out 2 more mpg, if they do not demand the extra hp and torque.
To clean/test N75 - Disconnect 3 hoses from N75, mark each one so you know how they go back on. Be careful not to break the plastic nipples, then cut 1/4 inch off the end of each hose to eliminate possible holes or cracks in hose, if not new.
Connect 2 wires to battery POS and NEG, touch the connector on the N75 with the wires to cycle it ON. you'll hear it clicking. get electronic contact cleaner and spray in all nipples and cycle ON. black stuff will leak out. repeat process until liquid comes out clean. it should evaporate fast. then lube with electronic parts lube. reconnect hoses to N75, reconnect plug and you are done.
"what is it? "
The N75 valve is simply the name given to the valve by VW. It is an electronically-conrolled air-valve which controls the signal to the VNT vanes of the turbocharger. The N75 is Pulse Width Modulated to control the vacuum signal coming out of the actuation port. Although TDIs do not have a wastgate on the turbocharger, some repair manuals refer to the the N75 as "Wastegate Bypass Regulator Valve".
Here is a technical description of N75 operation.
"where is it?"
The n75 is located on the right side of the car just foreward of the fuel filter,on the inner fender.
"how do i replace it?"
Remove the 3 hoses and the electrical connector and replace it. DO NOT MIX UP THE HOSES!!!
Here is a photo of N75 valve from my favorite TDI parts source.
1998 vw TDI
Good luck - it's always the dreaded problem with diesels.
The engine should start and run just fine running from that container of fuel.
If that gets the engine going, then you likely have an air-leak in the system between the fuel-filter and the tank.
If engine does not run - your problem is between the fuel and the engine. (lets hope your injection-pump did not run dry and self-destruct)
I will try both ideas in the morning and let you both know.
Welcome to the Forum...
Thanks.
(If it detected wrong-resistor-value in the original valet key, and you tried it a few times in a row, i think it might lock-out the ignition for 15 or 30 minutes. some cars do that. not sure if your VW is one such...)
My experience is with a 4 cylinder diesel if one of the glow plugs has burned out, starting will be very difficult. This is based on owning three 4 cylinder diesels with >500k mi. To check the glow plugs, pull the electrical connector caps and measure the resistance of each to a good contact with the engine block. You will see either low resistance of <10 Ohms or an open circuit which means burned out. Removal & replacement is simple, just be sure to clean the area around the plug before removing it. Around 100k mi I replaced one on my TDI for the same symptoms, and several on my Ford Tempo over 300kmi and lots on my Peugeot, but it was French!
If it's your fuel filter you would likely see the problem at any temperature.
Waxing becomes a problem after operating for a short time. For sustained cold weather below 10deg F I would use a good wax inhibitor.
Your IQ is the most critical thing when it comes to starting TDI engine. With the IQ adjusted to slightly above the nominal setting, a TDI will start very easilly in -15F temparatures.
IQ = Injection Quality (aka timing of injection pulses)
The first sign of problem was that at a stop light the engine idol was really "chugging." The whole car would shake violently and I took it back and said "I've owned a diesel before, but this can't be right." In fact I was right and the car had more problems than I knew. The dealership said that the fuel injection lines had been switched, that the intake was connected to the outtake and vice a versa. Since they "corrected" this problem my MPG have dropped by 20 mpg (from 50 to 30). Does anyone know anything about this? OR know any mechanics that are trust worthy?
THanks
I recently had to shell out $2000 to replace my turbo that failed due to excessive carbon buildup. I own an 02 Golf TDI with 77,000 miles on it. The extended warranty company is balking at covering the cost due to the presence of this excessive carbon. I take good care of teh car and am pissed. does anyone else have this problem? any suggestions when i sue the extended warranty company? DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A CLASS-ACTION SUIT AGAINST VW FOR THE [non-permissible content removed] TURBO IN MY GOLF?
Most likely the problem with your turbocharger was the DRIVER. There is a reason that you need to use full-throttle accelleration at least once per tank of fuel. TO KEEP THE CARBON BLOWN OUT OF THE TURBOCHARGER!
Besides, your old turbocharger is likely to be good. I hope your repair-shop did not KEEP your expensive trubocharger. I am sure THEY sent it out for rebuild. (and got several 100 dollars for it)
As a pre-warning to you... the INTAKE-PLENUM on TDIs is known to get plugged up with carbon and needs to be cleaned. (around 80-100K miles) Did your service-poeple include this cleaning in the $2000 bill? If not, you will be in the shop again soon...
Mine is at 107,000 miles. The goals are a min of 500,000 miles plus. The EGR and intake manifold was inspected during the 100k mile TB/WP change. It was pronounced good to go for @ least another 100k by one of the regional gurus. It was blacked, but there was NO carbon/soot build up.
So when your water temp is cold (aka, less than normal operating temp @ app 190 degrees on your temp gauge) run your revs (through the gears) to not more than 2,500 rpms. When it is warm (aka @ app 190 degrees on your temp gauge) run your revs (through the gears) to app 3,500 rpms.
You CAN rev to 5,100 rpms BUT much over 3800 rpms does NOT much good. (economy, power, speed, wise) This type of up and down reving keeps the turbo's vanes from getting stuck.
Some might have different definitions, but you will want to run the car slightly ahead of the torque curve (again slightly to more aggressively). You do NOT want to wind it up like a Honda VTEC then shift. But you want to shift (slightly) before and let the torque pull you to where you want to go. So while I normally run the engine at higher rpms ( for the reasons stated) when I want max mpg, I run it between 1700- 2000 rpms(sweet spot) . Again, when you feel the need to down shift let the revs take you to between 2,500 to 3,500 and this will actually keep the turbo issues at bay while you can do the economy range if you so chose.
In any case -You may want to start with a compression-test to ensure that all 4 cylinders are mechanically sound.
Then, consider one of the injectors may be mis-behaving.
It took a little bit of creativity and patience, but here's a sample of what I was able to get.
I've posted some additional views at Automotive Traveler, including some higher resolution images. Here's a direct link to the blog:
2009 VW Golf Plus Spy Shots
I invite you to drop in, take a look, and leave any comments that might better identify the cars in the shots. Feel free to post the above image on other VW-related forums if you want so long that you properly credit it to Automotive Traveler and the link above.
If the editors at edmunds.com would like to feature the images with proper attribution, please contact me directly.
Thank you and have a great weekend.
Richard Truesdell
Editorial Director, Automotive Traveler magazine,
www.volkswagen.de/vwcms_publish/vwcms/master_public/virtualmaster/de3.html
Only registered forums users can find email addys this way so there's no danger of exposing your email to just anyone this way.
Example - Ford no matter how random or unacceptable the issue was would bill the owner for the fix. Both my Subaru and my Toyota had repairs done way outside of the warrenty with no questions asked. Both Subaru and toyota dealers simply said hmm? thats not right it shouldn't do that we'll fix it no bill to me and a 100% happy customer and future buyer. Our VW had some issues not surprising even with a full extended fancy warrenty we still left the dealer $700 light for a car with 50,000 miles on it.
My conclusion is that any dealer can be bad and the parent company policies can contribute to this poor service. I've also come to the conclusion that you should always learn as much about your vehicle as you can man or woman so that you know when things that shouldn't go wrong do and you can put pressure on the dealer to do the right thing vs charge you for a big fix etc.
I've had mistakes made - vacume hoses left detached on my Toyota which resulted in me getting stuck given my 4wh drive didn't lock - I gave the dealer an ear full they fixed it no charge and payed for my tow which wasn't cheap.
My Subaru which has been beat and abused like no other car I've ever had developed a very rare leak Subaru took one look and said that shouldn't happen we'll fix it the car was 40K out of warrenty! And yes they were right no matter how the car was used the leak it developed should never happen.
VW - for years and - years and as for as long as I can remember has had horrible dealer reputations. It has 100% to due with the policies the parent company has regarding dealer pay back and credit from the parent company for warrenty and "goodwill" repairs.
If you want to just drive a car not knowing a thing about how it works etc there are only three companies you should own a car from in this order Honda, Subaru, Toyota.
If you take an interest in how your car works how it is put together etc then owning more exciting cars like VW's BMW's , Audi's - Mercedes etc.
If you have little money for a car you should have a used Honda, Subaru - Toyota.
If your a die hard American made type you need both money and car smarts for the Fords - Chevy's etc given the cars are OK but spotty regarding quality and the dealers have historically always been Ok but not outstanding when it comes to doing the right thing.
I really do not like our 2001 1.8T Jetta its poorly put together - not comfortable - small and isn't exactly enjoyable to drive. Having said that the 5spd manual is well done something VW has always been known for is well done Manual transmissions. I drove the new 2L TDI jetta and was greatly impressed all my complaints appear to be fixed with the new 09 Jetta and for the price its hard to beat. Again its a VW so you should be the type that takes an interest in how the car is built and works so you know when things need addressing and when to call BS on the dealer.
I disagree on Toyota though. I lump them clear at the bottom of the dealer service pile, right there with VW. In fact, their CSI scores usually reflect my sentiment. I always swear I'll never buy another Toyota (but usually do anyway...i.e. my current Tundra) because the dealers are so bad. I've fought with them on every warranty repair I've gotten out of them on the five Toyotas I've owned. Been screwed a few times on issues that were slightly out of warranty. My '07 Camry had bad strut mounts at 37k and even though there was a TSB on it, three dealers and Toyota corporate told me tough luck, I should have complained before 36k. I even called Toyota corporate after the run-around they gave me on the Tundra recall and they didn't give a rip. What's funny is nearlest dealer is a Toyota/Honda franchise owned by the same folks. They're right next door to each other. The Honda dealer is clean, drive-in service bay, free loaners, awesome waiting area with food/starbucks, and they've always given me top-notch service. The Toyota side is a trash heap, no loaners, dirty bathrooms, and the biggest [non-permissible content removed] of a service advisor I've ever met. Makes no sense, except that Honda holds them to a higher standard. The only up-side is that the problems are usually few and far between. God help the person that gets a bad Toyota though!