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Volkswagen TDI Models

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Comments

  • sammyhsammyh Member Posts: 2
    sorry its golf mk 4 03 plate
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    A good one if you are planning on stopping there hp/torque wise is the Sachs V6 SM clutch. What is tricky is the lighter flywheel. Stay with the 20# not the lighter flywheel.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Many people find that the GTI or the VR6 clutch can handle the increased power.
  • johnzonhjohnzonh Member Posts: 2
    hey there,

    Im at a loss on this and its something that popped up about a month ago.

    our 99 TDI Beetle has absolutely no get up and go.... and will top out at about 70 mph flat highway. I was thinking fuel and air so I replaced fuel filter and air filter...

    I'm not burning oil, engine sounds good, no jerking or anything like that. It just will not perform. Starts fine (replaced glow plugs last year...of course got soaked for the job for VW to get rid of the check engine light. We live in relatively cold climate but have had no starting issues and have been through a several tanks of diesel.

    The light is back on ...and of course now I am stuck driving slow. Wondering about a waste gate issue? Anything I can do before I go kicking and screaming to VW?
  • oke3oke3 Member Posts: 2
    LOSS OF POWER SOUNDS LIKE A BAD MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR, EASY FIX. GOOD LUCK.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I would bet money that your intake plenum is plugged up... this is KNOWN to happen to MK4 TDIs. The combonation of crappy USA fuel and ExhaustGasRecirculation cause this to happen.The only real fix is to remove the plenum and clean it. It is a very messy job...lots of black goop.

    If you do some research about this on the internet, you will find several do-it-yourself cleanings complete with photos.
  • pludlowpludlow Member Posts: 16
    Possibly the mass air flow sensor, as earlier reply suggested. I had a problem at 80kmi which was sluggish acceleration (low torque), like the turbo quit. Changed the MAF sensor and it was back to perky self. I did not find a max speed as you did, just took forever to get there. Lower gear helped.

    I'm wondering if you have a obstruction in the fuel supply (tank vent??) that limits the fuel flow and therefore the speed. Can you find a flat spot in lower gears at same rpm? If so that would suggest a fuel supply problem.
  • johnzonhjohnzonh Member Posts: 2
    oooh ok now maybe we are getting somewhere. hmm. I will look into the intake and the sensor issues.

    I didn't really find a "flat spot" ...but if I ever need to step on it, go up a hill, or go flat beyond about 70 it will just not do it. Thanks so much ..everyone for the input. I was really getting worried. in this day and age...getting 50 mpg is like gold. I really enjoy the savings.
  • jkinzeljkinzel Member Posts: 735
    Tomorrow I’m going to look at a 2005 Beetle GLS TDI 5spd manual with 21,400+ miles on it.

    The dealer is asking $18,999, Blue Book is $19,150

    Any thoughts on the price. Seems like there are used TDI’s showing up on the lots these days. I wonder why?
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    Probably trades on the Jetta Sportwagen TDI. That does seem a bit high. Though that is one of the real pluses with the VW TDI, high resale value. That is very low mileage for a 4 year old car. Make sure it has a clean title, no wrecks.
  • reid12reid12 Member Posts: 5
    I own a 2006 Beetle with TDI. It is a great car except for one thing. I am only about a thousand miles from replacing tires. Car just rolled over 20000 miles. Mechanically otherwise, great. Watch the electronics, ie: door locks, trunk lock, and cruise control. Mine has been in the shop under warranty for all of these things. Usually a module replacement was all that was necessary.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The factory tires are pretty crappy when it comes to premature wearout. If you try to replace with exact same tires... you will find there is NO MILAGE WARANTEE at all on them.

    Consider getting 4-wheel alignment before installing QUALITY tires with a milage-warantee. Rotate them at least once a year. They should last for well over 50,000 miles.
  • reid12reid12 Member Posts: 5
    thanks for the reply. Can you recommend a good replacement model and brand. I have looked at Michelin and Continetal. Both are similiar. Pricing a good tire is not an issue. We have a place near us called Discount Tire. They can get me just about any brand of that I want to put on her.

    Thanks for the info on what to do.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    I suggest you consider buying five Michelin Primacy MXV4's. These tires seem to be the highest rated all-season touring tires. I'm putting a set on my 2006 Jetta TDI because the original Bridgestones wore out. All auto makers are now recommending not using tires that are more than 5-7 years old, so I rotate all five tires to avoid having an old spare that is unsafe.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I run nothing but NOKIAN tires on my vehicles.

    For me, it is important to have traction and safety in the winter months here in Vermont. The WRG2 is one of the only tires on the planet which is rated for summer AND winter (not just an "all season" tire which is NOT rated for snow.)

    NOKIAN also stands by their products. I used to own a 4X4 Honda Civic which used to really wear through tires. I went back to the tire-seller to exercise the tire-warantee and NOKIAN replaced all 4 tires for about $15/tire (pro-rated pricing) They did this about 3 times over the time I owned that vehicle!

    Also, I demand low rolling resistance to get the most MPG out of my Jetta TDI. These tires deliver with up to 56 MPG on the highway. (I have xcell charts to prove it!)

    My eldest daughter has a NB (New Beetle) with 4 NOKIAN WRs on it. I have driven it in the snow and it does well.

    If winter performance is not a priority for you... NOKIAN also offers summer-only tires.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Michelin DOES NOT provide any milage-wearout warantee at all. Given that the original MXV4s on my Jetta only lasted only about 24K miles... these tires are NOT worth the price they ask. (about 30% higher than simular tires)

    When price and longevity are considerd, there are better tire-choices available than Michelin.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    I have a warranty for 60K miles tread life within six years for the Primacy MXV4's in my hand, and I can read. If you are concerned about winter driving, the Nokian's do not provide the ice traction of dedicated studless winter tires. I drive mountain passes several times each winter, and I would not risk my life with "snow" tires.
  • jkinzeljkinzel Member Posts: 735
    Today I took the plunge and purchased a used 2005 New Beetle TDI, GLS and DSG transmission with 47,000 miles. CarFax shows it to be clean. I was told the factory warranty has run out, but I can buy an extended warranty that averages out to about $1000 a year for three or four years. A bit steep I say, but VW repairs are really steep. Might be better to keep the $3K in a repair account and hope for the best.
    We tend to keep cars a long time. I traded a 1993 Explorer with 208000 miles, we purchased new, for the NB. $1,200 they gave me.
    Bpeebles, would you be so kind as to tell me the fuel treatment you use. I know it has been gone over hundreds of times, but I have been away from the threads for a while.
    What sweet ride, can’t wait to take it over the mountains (Cascades).
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Keep in mind that Michelin sells many tires that carry the MXV4 tag, and also keep in mind that your Jetta certainly did not come with the Michelin Primacy MXV4. More than likely, your Jetta came with Michelin Energy MXV4s, tires that I had on a former BMW, and tires that, while they are decent, are ranked no where near as highly as the Primacy MXV4.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I did not know they put the DSG in the 2005 Beetle TDI. I have only been watching for a 2006 model. That is one of my choices as run about. My neighbor has an older NB TDI with about 200K miles. He loves the car and it looks like new. He and his wife drive it more than any of their other cars. Well getting 50 MPG could be the reason.... :blush:
  • svargassvargas Member Posts: 5
    Hello bpeebles! I used to ask you questions a few years ago about my 2001 jetta 1.8T. I thought I'd ask you about the most recent issue I'm having because I am really low on cash right now, and I cannot afford to pay to take it in.

    Usually when I accelerate the oil pressure light blinks and is accompanied by beeping. This only happens when I'm accelerating, and it happens more on some days and not at all on others. My check engine light isn't on either. I'm not low on oil either, and it has always had it's scheduled oil changes.

    Is there something I can do to eliminate this? I know oil pressure can be detrimental to the engine if it's too high or too low. I'm worried about driving it so I've been driving as little as possible.

    I hope you can help!!
    Thanks in advance!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    VW has an 'intelligent' oil-pressure sensing system. It consists of 2 pressure-sensors. One BEFORE the oil-filter and one at the end of the farthest (from the oilpump) oil plenum.

    Using the input from these 2 sensors and other details such as engine RPM, this setup can sense several possible problems
    *) OilFilter plugging up
    *) OilPump not providing enogh pressure
    *) too much oil 'bleeding out' of the main bearings
    *)...etc

    I am assuming you are not seeing the light flashing if you just rev the engine in neutral. I am also assuming this happens more when the engine is HOT. (oil thins out when it is hot)

    I have seen this exact same problem many years ago on my daughters 1st VW gulf. The engine in that car had many hard miles on it and the bearings were getting 'lose'. I was able to keep the engine going for the 2 years that she owned it by adding a can of STP OIL TREATMENT each time I changed the oil.

    This worked because STP OIL TREATMENT is a viscosity improver (oil thickener) which helps keep the oil-pressure pumped-up when the oil is hot. Also STP OIL TREATMENT contains a big dose of detergents which can clean up the inside of an engine.

    I did a couple oil/filter changes using STP OIL TREATMENT and the cheapest oil I could find. (about 1000 miles apart). The oil I got out of that engine was black black black. I knew the STP OIL TREATMENT was removing years of gunk.

    After that, I did one more oil/filter change with quality oil and STP OIL TREATMENT... The engine ran smoother, quieter and the oil-pressure light never came on again during the 2 years my daugher drove that car.

    You asked for a low-budget solution... I cannot guarantee anything but what I described above is a lot cheaper than tearing the engine apart or replacing it.

    Also I assume you know that your 1.8t engine REQUIRES synthtic oil. VW/Audi had issues with some 1.8T engines which had NONsythentic oil run in them. The oil would overheat and start to break down leaving goop sticking to the inside of the passagways. (Almost like what cholestoral does to arteries)

    Good luck... let me know how it works out for you.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "This worked because STP OIL TREATMENT is a viscosity improver (oil thickener) which helps keep the oil-pressure pumped-up when the oil is hot. Also STP OIL TREATMENT contains a big dose of detergents which can clean up the inside of an engine."

    Hmmm, maybe things have changed over the years, however, STP used to be an absolutely slam-dunk way to sludge up an engine in a very short period of time. The fact is (or was) that all of the detergents in the world couldn't stop the pariffin wax that was a significant reason why STP was such a thick oil (yes, "thick" oil, not oil with viscosity improvers).

    For my money at least, I I'd rather put tar in an engine than STP.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Instead of being a nay-sayer... perhaps you can provide alternative LOW BUDGET options which would help the original appender. Are you suggesting that they put "tar" in their engine?

    Let me be clear - do not any oil-treatment on a normal basis and instead use only real GERMAN MADE OIL that VW uses in German built vehicles.

    HOWEVER: The original appender asked for a LOW BUDGET way to alleveate a problem with oil-pressure sensor alerting when engine under load. My response assumed that they would prefer not to order oil from Germany nor rebuild engine. With a high-milage engine and the other option is to tear-apart engine.... using STP Oil Treatment is a GREAT alternative in my book!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I'm not sure who's feeding you your information, but they're not doing a very good job of it. Regarding the Jetta 1.8T engine; there is absolutely no requirement to use an oil made in Germany, that said, there is a requirement to use oils that meet the VW 502.00 oil specification (and be assured, the STP does NOT even come close to meeting that spec). Oils that are available here in the States that are certified to meet 502.00 are (in no particular order):

    - ExxonMobile:
    - - Mobil 1 0W-40

    - Valvoline:
    - - Synpower MST 5W-30 & 5W-40
    - - Synpower HST 5W-40

    - Pennzoil:
    - - Platinum European Formula Ultra Full Synthetic 5W-30
    - - Platinum European Formula Ultra Diesel Full Synthetic 5W-30
    - - Platinum European Formula Full Synthetic 5W-40

    - Quaker State:
    - - Q European Engine Ultra 5W-30

    - Castrol
    - - Syntec 5W-40
    - - Syntec 0W-30

    Please note that of those listed oils, only the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 is made in Germany.

    FWIW, the complete list of approved oils can be found here:
    http://www.audiusa.com/etc/medialib/cms4imp/audi2/aoa/company/aoa-specific.Par.0- - - 023.File.pdf

    Regarding the OP for this thread; I didn't respond because I didn't feel there was enough information in the post with which to formulate a response. The fact is that unless the OP has used 502.00 oil since very early on in the life of that engine, and changed it at least every 5,000 miles, the engine is probably heavily sludged. If that's the case, then one of the first indicators that the sludge is in there is when the oil pressure light starts blinking. The thing is, the blinking light is typically because the oil pickup screen has become clogged with sludge. If that's the case, then thickening the oil with STP will only hasten the demise of the engine as it will be even more reluctant to make its way through the pickup screen.

    So, to the OP:
    The first thing you should check is the oil pressure sensors, however, to do this you'll probably need to take the car to a mechanic familiar with the 1.8T and have him put a mechanical pressure gauge of known accuracy on the engine. If the pressures look good then you probably have a sensor or two that is in failure mode (this is a relatively rare but not unknown problem).

    If the pressure is genuinely low, the next thing the person on a budget might want to consider is pulling the oil pan (a job I haven't done on your particular car but have heard that it is pretty easy as there aren't too many obstructing components below the engine) and inspect the oil pickup screen. If it's clogged, pull it and either figure out how to clean it with some sort of a solvent, or buy a new one.

    Long story short, whatever you decide to do, do NOT put STP in your engine.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • alltorquealltorque Member Posts: 535
    Fully agree on the need to use only VW 502.00 oil in that engine and, as you point out, there's no need to import it.

    However, the drain period you suggest of 5000 miles is, I believe, merely a device used in the U.S. market to generate income for Service Departments. Same engine, same oil spec here in Europe gets 10000 mile oil changes, (IIRC), as a VW recommendation in the handbook and current editions are 20k. Even the later TDi engines now go for 20k miles between changes - using the correct spec oil. Low-miles between oil changes seems to be a feature of the U.S. market which Europe would never tolerate. My 2004 1.9 TDi 130bhp had an interval of 10k miles and that is now 20k miles on the later ones. My Volvo S60 with the D5 engine runs 18k between changes under full warranty, sames as the petrol-engined variants. The oils and the engines are certainly up to it but the Service Dept doesn't get as much profit. I cannot imagine a 1.8T engine sludging up - using the correct spec oil, anyway. I can't remember when 5k oil changes ceased in Europe; it's so long ago, (except, perhaps, for some very exotic stuff but certainly no "production" cars).

    I have related elsewhere a local taxi guy running 410k miles in 4 years without any problems other than tyres, a clutch and service items. That was a 1.9 TDi engine running on 10k miles oil changes and the car is still in daily use by his wife.

    As for STP in modern engines - no thank you. With a TDi engine it might just invalidate the warranty as you have contaminated the original oil spec.

    Just some thoughts from the U.K.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    The fact of the matter is that a huge number of 1.8T engines here in the U.S. have died prematurely due to sludge. While not a hard and fast rule, the vast majority of 1.8Ts that have failed either didn't have their oil changed every 5,000 miles, and/or didn't have 502.00 oil in the oil pans. True the 2.0T (both versions) are capable of 10,000 miles or more, but only a very foolish or very naive person would run a North American 1.8T any longer than 5,000 miles.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    As a look back, I am surely glad the TDI motor selection has allowed me to dodge (literally) those bullets. Further in retrospect, the TDI seems to have been the best motor of the three 1.9 TDI, 2.0, 1.8T, for the 2003 MY.

    While this might seem like a small thing, The TDI's "oil use" has been app 8oz per 10,000 miles or app 1/2 qt (16 oz) per 20,000 to 25,000 miles OCI. Incidently the oil used since oem fill and recommended oil change at 5,000 miles, Delvac One 5w40, aka Mobil One Truck & SUV 5w40, aka Mobil One TDT 5w40, does not carry the VW 500.00 series rating. While I would recommended using oils with the VW ( du jour) approved ratings, this oil seems to perform in an almost stellar fashion.

    For the 2.0 and 1.8T I have heard of consumption up to 1 qt per 1,000 miles (and even less than 1,000 miles !!)
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    One thing to keep in mind is that there are two completely distinct 2.0T gasoline engines. The BPY version (aka. the FSI engine) which ran from ~2004 or so up until the end of the 2008 model year was known to consume oil (especially of the PCV system was not properly operating), however, the new CCTA engine (aka. the TSI engine), which started appearing in some transverse PZEV cars mid-way through the 2008 model year is developing a reputation for not using any oil at all.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Perhaps another way to say this is still... buyer beware. I think it is good that VW is finally able to translate the effort into a good gasser product, i.e., CCTA engine aka TSI.

    The "needle in the haystack problems" remains however.

    So for another example, I could have selected the 2003 TDI with the O1M automatic transmission....... :lemon: Perhaps the outcome COULD have been FAR different on the transmission despite a GREAT TDI engine
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    The new Touareg TDI has hit the showrooms here in San Diego. The tax credit is only $1150. Better than nothing I guess. I like the looks of the Touareg best of the diesel SUVs on the market. The ML320 CDI is the most comfortable of the bunch. The BMW X5 & GL320 CDI get the biggest tax credit of $1800. The VW comes with leather in the base configuration and should be going for right about $40k before TTL and the tax credit.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Let us know how the test ride goes!

    Not to get anyone's dander up, but @ first look, it looks like a VW Jetta Sportwagon, albeit higher and bigger/chunkier. link title VW Sportwagon link title

    It will be interesting to see/hear how the 3.0 V6 TDI does. @221 hp/407 # ft and EPA of 17/25 mpg, it does set the bar/s very high, both for SUV's and INXS of 4,000 #'s segment vehicles. With a 26.4 gal tank, a 650+ miles range is nothing to sneeze at either.

    I am swagging after 10,000 miles initial break in, 26-30 mpg will not be difficult to achieve.

    Vs a TLC getting 14-16 mpg ( mid point of 15 mpg) , getting 25 mpg , I will take 67% better fuel mileage !!!!!!!!!

    To put it in perspective, Jetta TDI 2.0 I4 @140 hp/236 # ft, EPA of 29/40 mpg. It is getting a range of 39-45 mpg. During the normal commute, (can't be herky jerky) more like 41-44 mpg. During a break in 2,300 miles trip/run (lots of spots to be herky jerky), it posted over all 43.5 mpg. (or so)

    Highway 5 N/S, S/N was actually in construction herky jerky, (more like perpetual , but another issue) so it was simple to blend in. :shades: :lemon: Vancouver's WA,BC were both BAD. Portland's and Seattle's downtown's traffic was a rolling parking lot- (I am being too optimistic here I know). All in all a great trip.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I would like to go drive one in the next several days. Will post my impressions.
  • mistake1mistake1 Member Posts: 1
    2002 TDI-I bought this car while not feeling well-it worked out OK.At 53,000 the transmission failed-it took 3 weeks to get another "shipped over"-since then I change the fluid every so often-I have it changed-current milage 189,000 and counting-I use shell rotella synthetic and I change it myself every 5-6,000 miles. Anybody know a TDI mechainic near cincinnati-I am trying to decide whether to trade or spend a couple thousand to keep it-it is due a timing belt and water pump and it needs struts and the finish is just ok. Thanks
  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    Has VW given up on bringing this over to the US?
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I hope not. That would be a great little 35 MPG SUV. It would kick butt on everything in its class. The only fear I can see by VW is it would not be a neck jerking 0-60 MPH rig, that US consumers are enamored with. Personally climbing my 7% grade on Interstate 8 at the speed limit of 70 MPH without downshifting is my benchmark. None of the small 4 cylinder gas or hybrids can manage that. Heck my Toyota V8s are borderline.
  • wleighwleigh Member Posts: 1
    2002 jetta seems to be using oil. do not see any smoke at ignition or oil on driveway but barely get read on dip stick at 3000 oci. real amatuer here, just need advice.
  • taylor4650taylor4650 Member Posts: 1
    When I try to accelerate even moderately black smoke bellows out. This does not happen when sitting in the driveway and "stepping" on the pedal. The car is not burning oil. Any suggestions?
  • alltorquealltorque Member Posts: 535
    Sounds like a classic fault. Check the turbo outlet pipe. Sounds like it's fractured/split and needs replacing. Engine is getting right amount of fuel but not enough air as it's leaking out of the split. Think it's a rubber-type hose so no bigggy.

    Next ? :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    As mentioned above,,, Black smoke indicates that there is not enough air entering the engine in accordance with the amount of fuel that is being injected.

    Here are some other possible contributing factors.

    The turbocharger and intake manifold have a habit of plugging-up if you do not follow the advice of how to keep things cleaned out.

    You *MUST* use full-throttle accelleration several times per tank of fuel lest the trubocharger and intake manifold may get plugged up with soot/oil mixture.

    Also, the use of sub-par fuel or the wrong engine-oil has been shown to contribute.

    You may also consider checking your MAF (Mass AirFlow sensor), if it is not measuring the flow properly, you could get that black smoke.
  • mrjettemrjette Member Posts: 122
    I have a 2005 Passat TDi. My local mechanic says to change the timing belt at 60K while the manual says to do it at 90K. He says it is the same belt that used to say to change at 45K, but VW upped the time interval to reduce the annual expense of Maint. I do know about the issue if it goes, but not sure I should spend the money to replace a belt with plenty of life (I have 61K and treat her like a baby).

    Any advice on whether to change the timing belt (at about $1000) or wait?

    Thanks!!
  • pludlowpludlow Member Posts: 16
    I had VW do the job along with the water pump which was leaking after 120k mi. The belt was till good without cracks or edge wear.
    My son bought one of the on-line tool kits for TDI timing belt changes and said it was a piece of cake and <250$.
    I'll borrow the tool kit the next time.
    It's fairly easy to keep tabs on the belt by pulling the top cover each oil change as the schedule mileage approaches to inspect the belt.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    I recommend to replace timing belt at 90k like the manual says.
    I think you have a bigger problem with that car, however. The oil-pump chain design is apparently flawed and has/will fail on 100% of USA passat TDIs, usually before 100k miles. Apparently it is a multi-thousand-dollar repair.
    Go to TDICLUB passat/B5 forum to learn about it.
    I understand VW won't sell the replacement oil-chain-drive system/part -they sell a gear-driven system now instead.
  • rainwater05rainwater05 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone have the collector eddition of the 2000 beetle that looks like a baseball can you tell me the company that made tha original stickers? I really need to no
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    A little off topic,but does anyone think that a set of 4-205/60-16 snow tires would/would not work on a 2006 Jetta TDI?

    Tire rack says they are about 1" taller than the 55's and says 'they won't work"

    The 60's are 66.00 each, the 55's are $77.00 each...that one I don't get either, $11.00 more for a smaller tire?

    I think I could use a little more clearance under that low hanging Jetta this winter.
  • pludlowpludlow Member Posts: 16
    I have a 2000 Jetta TDI which has 195/65R15 with a diameter of 634mm approx.
    Your 205/60R16 should measure out at approx 652mm. Typical tread depth ranges about 10mm on the diameter measurement due to wear. The 205/55R16 would be about 631mm which is close to my Jetta's.

    The tire shops will not go outside the spec range due to emission control req'ts but at least in NY the diesel does not have emission testing so the risk is probably non-existent to use a slightly larger diameter tire. You should recognize that your rpms and speed will read low by about 4% so don't drive on the "edge". My Jetta reads low by about 3-4% anyway, at least that's what all the radar checkpoint displays say.

    I'd try the 60's!
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    The reason they're cheaper is because a 205/60 is a very common tire....but a 205/55 is not. They don't sell as many so they charge more to recoup the fixed cost of producing a size run. It's not quite an inch difference.....21mm to be exact. Hard to say what the clearance is on the newer Jettas but you need to make sure the front tires will clear the suspension during full turns. You'll also take a little hit in performance/economy and handling (which will be even more noticeable with snow tires) because of the taller sidewall. IMHO....I would pony up the extra $44. If anything, perhaps shop a more narrow tire which will work better in the snow anyway. A 195/60 should be priced a little better and much closer to stock size.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    Go with 195/65-15 studless winter tires mounted on steel rims by Tire Rack. That combo will be the least expensive over the approximate 5 year life of the tires and the most effective in winter conditions. That is the package recommended by Tire Rack for good reason. You want a more narrow tire for winter conditions, and having the tires mounted on steel wheels will prevent damage to your alloys and reduce the twice yearly expense of changing from winter tires to highway tires and back.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    Good idea. The narrower tires do work better in snow and on ice. Having them mounted on cheap steel wheels saves wear on expensive aluminum wheels. You can polish them all winter so they are ready for cruising in the Spring.
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    imageSee more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com

    Not my Jetta, but it is such a beautiful photo, I thought you would all like to see it anyway.

    I will be shopping for that hood deflector today..on the 2500 mile trip home with my mint white Jetta from Texas last week, I picked up multiple rock dings right down to the metal, and who knows how many bits of flying crap hit the windshield.

    Anyway, thanks for all the input on this, I like the idea of going with the 15" steelies and 195 65 15's, a set of 4, Tire Rack balanced, installed and shipped comes to $529.56.
    At only $132.00 each that seems to be the best deal around for new snows, rims, balanced, installed and shipped to the door..

    The same set up with the 16" wheels is $100.00 more and the tires overall numbers are pretty much the same. I assume the disk brake system will tuck into the 15" rims without a problem.

    I'm looking at the General Altimax Arctic, or the Firestone Winterforce, both have a very aggressive directional tread that is similar to the Nokia's I have on our 2007 Nissan Versa.

    (those really kill my already bad mpg's in that car but the tires are great)
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