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Volkswagen TDI Models

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Comments

  • dieselbreathdieselbreath Member Posts: 243
    As a real world example, I've raced MANY riced-up Japanese cars off the lights, and other than one particular modified 4WD Mitsubishi flame-breather I have ALWAYS beat them to the other cross-walk ... in my 90 HP Beetle TDI. (you have to get the revs/throttle just right to avoid melting the tires or launching with no boost ... and sticky Yokohamas help compared to the stock Michelins).

    Now, once across the intersection, its another story. I have to shift into second, and the rice-burner is just hitting its power band. Fortunately for me most of these incidents occurred in Seattle/Redmond where there was always major traffic preventing you from going far anyway.

    But the point is that 155+ Ft.Lbs of torque at 1900 revs gives a lot more torque to the wheels at low speed to launch your car.
    (NOTE: at 150,000 kms I had to have the STRETCHED BOLTS on the front motor mount replaced ... one was broken, the other two were stretched out)
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    It just kills me that VW has a V10 diesel 300 something hp and 500 something # ft of torque!! AW AW AW !!!
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Yeah, I don't really get that though. My Cummins Ram has 305hp and 555lb-ft out of a 6-cylinder.

    I'm not sure why VW needed a V10 for that output. Unless they're putting a gas engine powerband to it so it drives more like a car engine.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    That would be my guess also. The Cummins RAM is probably a SUPER tow mule and almost can darn near pull a tree stump out of the ground :) I am thinking a cross 4 door sedan/suv/sav/whatever probably has not as much requirement for that.
  • chmeeeechmeeee Member Posts: 327
    The Toureg does have a pretty good towing capacity though, 7700 lbs.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #711

    For sure 7700#'s is NOTHING to sneeze at!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The towing capacity of a vehicle is based more on the WEIGHT and "heavy dutyness" of the pulling vehicle... not its POWER.

    The pulling vehicle should weight signigicantly more than the deadweight being pulled. This is a safety factor that should not be ignored.

    That 6 cylinder Cummins RAM can pull a BULLDOZER on a tripple-axle trailer uphill. I would not try that with a Toureg even if it HAD the V10.

    More cylinders generally make for a SMOOTHER engine due to the lower mass of the smaller pistons flapping around. Also due to more power pulses per rotation of the crankshaft.
  • roweerowee Member Posts: 21
    great effect-small consumption: 128KW(174bhp) max.torqe of 400Newton meters;189kph top speed;12.4 seconds to 100kph.
    However, my N.American friends, this T-reg version(with 17" alloy and235/65,only!!)will not be sold in your part of the world. But stay calm; we here pay for the R5 TDI almost as much as you will
    pay for its larger brother V-10.
  • dieselbreathdieselbreath Member Posts: 243
    Its simple economics. All VW engines share the same parts. In fact, VW is the only manufacturer I know of using diesel blocks for gas engines. (that's why the little 1.8t in rally form puts out 368 HP with stock pistons, crank, block, etc. and its totally reliable)

    So, back to the cylinders. ALL new-design VW/Audi engines are 1/2 liter per cylinder giving:
    3 cyl. 1.5 liters (future Lupo, etc)
    4 cyl. 2 liter GAS: Beetle, Golf, Jetta
    4 cyl. 2 liter DIESEL: Passat, future Golf, Jetta
    5 cyl. 2.5 L GAS (V5): Passat, A4, A6 (in Europe only)
    5 cyl. 2.5 L GAS (straight): VW trucks, vans,
    5 cyl. 2.5 L DSL (straight): T-reg, VW trucks & vans
    6 cyl. 3 L GAS (V6): A4, A6, A8, T-Reg, future Passat,
                       future Jetta, Golf, etc.
    6 cyl. 3 L DSL (V6): Passat, A6, future Jetta... (Europe)
    8 cyl. 4 L GAS (W8): Passat W8
    8 cyl. 4 L GAS (V8): Audi, T-Reg, Phaseton
    8 cyl. 4 L DSL (V8): A8, future Passat
    10 cyl. 5 L DSL (V10): Phaeton, T-reg, and that
             pickup shown in Detroit 3 years back
    12 cyl. 6 L GAS (V12): Audi A8, Bugatti, Phaeton?
    16 cyl. 8 L GAS (W16): Bugatti Veyron

    And the cool part is, they are ALL sharing pistons, connecting rods, valves, etc.
    That's the only way to keep costs down and give the variety.

    Speaking of variety, compare engine choices between an Accord and a Jetta:
    Accord has 4-cyl gas, V6 gas [2 choices].
    VW Jetta has 2L 4c gas, 1.8L 4c turbo gas, 170 HP V6 gas, 201 HP V6 gas, 1.9L 4c DSL [5 choices] just in North America. In Europe, add smaller 4c gas, V5 gas, etc... and a few years ago Accord had only one engine!

    VWs "Platform sharing" is going very modular, and gives great "mix and match" flexibility. Plus, mechanics are more expert as soon all engines will be variations of a single design!

    PS: For you Cummins fans, VWs heavy trucks and busses are powered by Cummins diesels.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    thanks, good info.

    FWIW, I'd be more interested in a Toureg with a more reasonable sticker price and a 2.5 diesel. I don't see a need for 500lb-ft in an SUV and certainly not necessary to move it's 7500# tow limit. My Cummins with similar output (in a much heavier chassis) moves a 7500# trailer as if it was a bad joke.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    What heavy trucks and busses does VW sell? With Cummins? What are you talking about?
  • croy4croy4 Member Posts: 14
    Hello all. I had been considering the purchase of a Golf TDI for the 30k+ miles that I put on each year. This forum has been very informative.

    I am in CA, and I recently hear on the TDI club website that the TDI would no longer be available in CA in 2004 due to emissions requirements. I emailed my local dealer, and got this response:

    "My name is Jason and I am the Fleet Manager at Timmon's VW. You are correct!! They are not making the TDI for the US market next year. There are only a few TDI engine cars left and they already stopped production at the factory. Please call me to go over your options, colors, etc. and let me see what I can find that is close to what you want. I also have 3 tdi golfs in stock."

    Has anyone else heard of this? It sounds like it is not just in CA, but all of the U.S. Perhaps I need to jump on a 2003 now, or wait and be forced to buy a gas engine 2004. Thanks CA for ruining the availablity of this fine fuel efficient machine.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I think your salesman is either misinformed or trying to really get you worried so you'll rush in and pay him a bunch of money to get an '03. While the '04's won't be available in CA and several new england states, the cars will be readily available elsewhere.

    The reason the '04 will not be available in CA and those other states is because the Jetta/Golf will be getting a more powerful engine that doesn't meet the emissions laws in those states. The Passat will be arriving in early '04 as well as having a larger TDI engine. I wouldn't be surprised if these make their way into these low emissions states in the near future with some extra equipment to get the emissions down.

    How fast you want to run out and get one is up to you. There will always be used ones on the market as well, and I'm guessing a decent low-mileage '02 or '03 model bought in another state shouldn't be too hard to get registered in another state. It's not hard to register a vehicle in another state either, just need an address.
  • chmeeeechmeeee Member Posts: 327
    If you are buying used, you wouldnt have any problem registering a car in CA. The only problem I could forsee would be buying new out of state and trying to register it in CA. So even in a year or two, you can still pick up anything pre-'04 no problem, they cant make used cars illegal in the state, that would screw over too many people.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    If I understand what you are saying, if one wanted a 04 TDI for use in CA for example, all that would need to be done is buy it out of state USED and pay the transfer/smog fee when it is registered in CA!?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    There is one notable error in your assessment of why the 2004 TDIs will not be available in CA.

    It is NOT due to the newer engine (which is LESS polluting than the previous TDI engine)

    It is, instead, due to a scheduled change in the emmissions rules that goes into effect in 2004. Neither the 'old' nor the 'new' TDI engine will meet the new emmissions rules given the available fuel.

    The schedule for the new VeryLowSulpherDiesel fuel is to become available in several more years. With the approprate fuel, the newer TDI may actually MEET the emmissions requirements.

    It is a VERY SAD SITUATION INDEED that the one of the most economical vehicles available in NorthAmerica is not 'legal' in some states.

    Those stupid "hybryd" vehicles are tin-can econo-mobiles that have 100s of lbs of batteries that are significantly worse for the envrionment than the TDI.

    Do not forget that Europe has stringent emmissions rules too... and the diesel engines are everywhere. WHY?? Because the CARB (California Air Rescources Board) has other goals in mind... you figure it out from there!

    Another question... Why is CARB not just pushing up the introduction of the VeryLowSulpherDiesel fuel? It seems that would benifet EVERYONE. (There are Diesel trucks all over the country)
  • asimovianasimovian Member Posts: 1
    Croy4, this is an amazing coincidence. I live in the Southern California area, and I just bought my Golf GL TDI 2dr from Jason over at Timmons. I would HIGHLY recommend him to you. You'll get a much better price from him as a fleet manager, and he keeps his word. I negotiated the price with him over the phone, got him to email the conditions to me in writing, and when I got down to Long Beach, my car was ready, we signed papers, did the once-over, and we were gone. Fantastic experience.

    To answer your question, though, I was under the impression that it's just California (and four other states) that won't get TDIs next year. I think the rest of the country will actually get the 100hp TDIs, but perhaps I've read that wrong. I didn't have that specific discussion with Jason, but the other dealerships I spoke with gave me that impression.

    If you want more info about my experience with Jason (and a very negative experience I had at another local dealer), email me at my username here at yahoo.com.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Touareg V10 TDI in 04. Passat TDI Wagon and Sedan with 2.0L TDI and 5 speed Tiptronic automatic transmission in 04. Golf, Jetta, and New Beetle TDI with 1.9L PD TDI 5 speed manual or 5 speed Tiptronic automatic transmission in 04. Available in Canada and everywhere in the USA that Federal emissions laws are in effect and CA emissions laws are not.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    [quote dieselbreath-PS: For you Cummins fans, VWs heavy trucks and busses are powered by Cummins diesels.]

    No one knows what heavy trucks and busses VW makes with Cummins engines?
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I don't know the names of the models, but Volkswagen Commercial Vehicles has a medium/heavy truck and bus line in Brazil that use Cummins. I'm sure they're in other places as well.
  • cabrales1cabrales1 Member Posts: 36
    My wife took my Jetta Wagon into the dealer for the 10,000 oil change. While there they also did a "10,000 mile service" which cost a whooping $130. I haven't seen the paperwork so I have no idea what they did. Is this a service recommended in the manual? What type of service can a 6 month old car with 10K possibly need that costs that much?? The kicker is that, as far as my wife is concerned, she did not authorized this, but she was pressed for time so she did not questioned in on the spot. Do I have any recourse at this time? It's too bad because the buying experience at this Annapolis dealership was great, and we get the oil changes at a steep discount because we bought the car there, but I may just have to stop going there.
  • chmeeeechmeeee Member Posts: 327
    As far as I am concerned, the service is a ripoff at the dealers, that price does not sound unusual. I would suggest either doing the service yourself, its fairly easy on the TDI, or if you are not comfortable with that, find a local mechanic and buy the appropriate oil yourself.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (cabrales1) How much do you think the labor rate is for a good mechanic?

    Lets look a bit closer:
    *)4 quarts of special Castrol 5W40 synthetic oil that is only available at the dealerseship? $30
    *)Real VW Oil filter? $20
    *)Various lubes and windshield washer fluid $5
    *)1 hour labor? $67

    Gee... we are getting pretty close to your $130 once the mechanic does all of the various checks and adjustments called out in the 10K mile checkup.

    Perhaps you need to think of this as one hour of PREVENTIVE MANTENANCE (PM) every 10K miles. That does not seem unreasonable to me.

    Heck, a LAWNMOWER requires more PMs than that... with sharpening the blade and changing the oil every 50 hours or so.

    SUGGESTION: Find a fellow TDIClub member in your area... they are often glad to provide this service at a fraction of the cost AND, they know your TDI much better than the dealership ever will. They can also adjust your EGR to eliminate the intake clogging problem that the TDIs suffer from due to the poor quality fuel in North America. (I asked a local TCIClub member to adjust my EGR at 500 miles... the VagCom is a wonderful thing)
  • dieselbreathdieselbreath Member Posts: 243
    How about a range of capacities up to 26 tonnes (metric), with
    - Cummins 6CTAA Turbo/inter-cooled 8.27 liter 6-cylinder
    - Bosch P-7100 injection
    - Eaton RT 11-710-B 10-speed transmission with 2-speed rear-end
    - 275 liter fuel tanks

    VW's busses range from 8-tonne, front engine rigs to massive 17-tonne highway rigs with MWM 6.1 liter rear pusher engines driving through an Eaton FS-6406 6-speed Automatic tranny.

    "Medium Duty" trucks offer a choice of MWM engines, or Cummins 6BTAA 5.9 liter engines (like in the Dodge pickups)

    ... and, of course, you're already familiar with the line of VW trucks with Mercedes diesel engines...
  • vzh9p7vzh9p7 Member Posts: 24
    Thanks once again for all the input. I changed the oil and filter this weekend and it went off without a hitch; simple and clean using the MityVac...and actually kind of interesting to watch; simply pump it up and walk away and it's done.

    Now, Ruking...please tell me that the fuel filter is NOT located on the left side (when looking at the engine from the front), between the windshield washer and overflow containers....how the heck are you supposed to get to the bottom of it? The only person I can think of who'd have hands that would fit in there (from the top), is maybe E.T.!
  • cabrales1cabrales1 Member Posts: 36
    I should clarify something. I bought the car at that dealership, and as part of buying it there, I am suppossed to get free oil changes while the car is under warranty. However, I pay I pay $30 per oil change to cover the syntetic fuel (That is what I paid at 5,000 miles). This time, they charged the $30 that covers the syntetic oil, and did the "free" oil change. In addition, they charged $130 for the 10k checkup, which as far as I can tell, entailed rotating the tires, topping off fluids, and doing a bunch of "visual checks". There is no way this is worth $130. I'm specially upset because my wife swears that when they mentioned the 10k check she told them she was there just for the oil check. I had been planning to take the car to the dealers for the oil changes and for major checks, but there is no way I'll be taking it there if every 10k miles a simple oil change is going to cost me $168 with tax. This is when I look for the local VW mechanic.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #731

    Just as a point of reference, how much oil were you able to evaculate? (the ticks on the Mity Vac are in liters.)

    I just did another, a 10,000 mile oil change (with Mity Vac), disposing slighty over 1 gal, (1/8-1/4 qt). I also did the oil filter change, fuel filter drain and a tire rotation among the other 10k checklist items, and a few more that are on later mileage checklists.

    Caliper measurements indicate that on the Goodyear LS (oem with a 360 utog) tires that I am on track for 80-83k miles. The other thing I have deduced, is that after research and caliper measurements of outside, middle, inside, tread that this vehicle is almost a mandatory 5-6 tire rotation animal. The reason for it is that the right front tire position wears FASTER than ALL the rest. So the projected upshot is that if you only rotate (4) four tires, you will wind up with 1, mostly likely 2 tires wearing significantly faster. By significantly, I project 10k miles or more, hence at a point, app measurements being 1/32 or more, probably less than the 80-83k, you will NEED at least two tires. Most likely at that point, you will probably decide to change them all. So in the interests of increased wear mileage, I would highly recommend a 5 tire, but if you have the luxury of another tire, then 6 tire rotation. I was also pleasantly surprised to note that the alignment and balance yielded very even wear patterns.

    RE, the fuel filter on the left side as one looks AT or faces the engine, YES that is the one. To further ID the filter it is the one that has the hoses one black and one clear going to and from it. The trick is to look for the screw that secures the clamp. loosen that, and you will be able to lift out the fuel filter, so you can put like a plastic or rubber hose over the bottom fitting and loosen the plastic screw so the diesel fuel can flow into say a glass jar, or forgo the hose if you can lift it out enough.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (cabrales1) Gee, I payd $50 for my 5K service and this INCLUDED the synthetic oil. I have no "free" offers... this is their normal charge for this service.

    Forgive me for suggesting that your dealers offer to provide "free" oil changes is just a way to get you to show up there for service.... you are certainly not saving any money with these "free" oil changes.

    How the heck can they have the odacity to offer "free" oilchanges then charge you additional cost for the oil that VW specifies for use in the TDI engine. (This almost seems illegal to me.)
  • cabrales1cabrales1 Member Posts: 36
    I'm with you on this. This dealer has seen the last of me. I called the service manager yesterday, he says he'll look into it. I see (and agree) with your comment on the oil change. When I took it in the first time I figured it would be free. But they would only do it free with regular oil, not synthetic. I figured that $30 for an oil change with synthetic was not bad, since it would probably cost me that much just to buy the oil. I'm not in a position where I can do it myself (townhouse and all that). But I think this dealer has seen the last of me.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    With the right parts, there's no reason you can't change the oil in the Wal-mart parking lot. No reason to go under the car if you use a mighty-vac and the filter is right on top. If you're allowed to lift the hood of your car you should be able to change it in a matter of minutes yourself. Literally takes 10 minutes and at 10k mile intervals it's hardly a bother. At least you KNOW that it's getting good oil a new filter that way.

    I'm always skeptical about having someone else do any type of work on my vehicles, but I also get cramped for time as well. Had to run to texas a couple weeks ago with a 40' trailer and two horses. Ran to the dealership real quick for an oil change. Half-way across OK, I have oil spraying all over the side of the truck. Seems they forgot to put the oil cap back on. Whoops! So I spend an hour to so searching for an oil cap and trying to get oil cleaned off my windshield. Not really a good idea to lose a gallon of oil pulling 16,000# in 95F heat. If you have to check everything they do, what're the odds they're using the right oil, quantities, filters, etc.
  • chmeeeechmeeee Member Posts: 327
    They shouldnt have even charged you for the synthetic though. If they offer you free oil changes with your car, it should be a free oil change AS SPECIFIED by the owners manual. Its not like putting the synthetic oil in is a luxury that you choose to do, its required. See what they think about that.
  • hloadhload Member Posts: 27
    I'm got 52 mpg on my last long trip - kinda makes the current "Fuel Crisis" mute to me
  • cabrales1cabrales1 Member Posts: 36
    Well, the service rep from the dealer called yesterday. Very apologetic, etc. I don't know if he got chewed out by the manager or if this was just an act. Anyway, they offered to pick up the entire bill when I bring it in for the 20K miles oil check and "service". Although I don't think that still makes up for the $168 bill, I figured it was better than nothing and I didn't feel like fighting for more (like a refund). So I guess I'll take it in at 20k. After that who knows? I'm with you guys about doing my own stuff, but I can't do it where I live. I used to go to my parents' to take care of this type of minor maintenance, but I found myself going well over the specified periods of time between oil changes, etc. (with my other cars). There is a VW mechanic about 20 minutes from my house. The place looks like heck and has all kinds of vintage and new volkswagens there on a regular basis, so I'll check it out.
  • cabrales1cabrales1 Member Posts: 36
    It is great isn't it? I regularly get 41-43 mpg in heavy city driving, and 47-50 on the highway. Once coming back from Tenessee I got 56 and once coming back from Atlanta I got 54. Pretty cool. The biggest downside, when I'm filling up, is trying to remember the last time I filled up.
  • deaner14deaner14 Member Posts: 40
    In a couple weeks, I'll have owned my '02 TDI Jetta for a year. It has just over 26k on it and I'm wondering if there's anything I need to address with the dealership (read: Prev Maint) before my one year warranty is up. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

    Also, my fuel economy has been great at between 45 and 50 mpg but that's also driving over 80mph with the a/c on. Weather in Tx really bites sometimes....lol
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #741

    From a few things that I have read these come to mind. 1. whatever rattles, squeaks 2. make sure the window regulators are ok. 3. check the rear brake pads and rotors 4.
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Member Posts: 300
    Hey guys! I'm in the market for a new car and have been interested in Alero's and Jetta's...especailly TDI models. You guys all know how hard it is to find a low mileage TDI in good condition, right? Well I found a white TDI 1998 63,000 miles 5 speed, a/c, and sunroof for about 10K. What do you think...good deal or not? What is the timing belt change interval on that? How do the older (pre-1999) TDI's hold up? Any advice would be VERY appreciated. Thanks a ton guys!

    Jeremy
  • chmeeeechmeeee Member Posts: 327
    How come your warranty is only 1 year? The warranty for the 2002 models is 4 years/50k miles...

    1998 Jetta: Sorry, I don't know much about the older ones, but the timing belt interval is probably 40k miles, so you might want to make sure its been changed. If you can't find a record of doing it, then its worth doing just to be sure. If its a dealer, maybe you can get them to change it for you as part of the sale agreement or something.
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Member Posts: 300
    Well I went to check her out and drive her. It was the first TDI I've ever gotten behind the wheel of. I asked him about the timing belt and he said, "if there is something that needs to be done when we get the car, then we do it". I doubt that though because it's a Jeep dealer, and I'm sure they wouldn't know too much about a TDI engine. I dunno though. Anyway, that car was awesome. Inside she had EVERYTHING except power windows. The only thing that bothered me inside, was the stupid chime that goes off if you open the door when the car is running...it's sounds like a freakin music box. The outside was about average. There were a lot of places on the front-end where the paint had been touched up, like rock chips and stuff. There was one part on the grill that was cracked. The engine (I guess) sounded okay. I said I guess because I'm not used to TDI's. There was a little hesitation when in neutral when I would rev around 2K RPM's. The dealer said it was just turbo lag. Can anyone confirm that? Driving it was awesome and easy. I've only driven a stick one other time and this TDI was soooooo easy.

    After everything you guys have heard, do you think 10K for 63,000 miles is too much? Oh and I forgot to say it only has a tape player.

    Jeremy
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    $8000 is a fair price for a 98 Jetta TDI in excellent condition with 63K miles. Sounds like the one you are looking at may exellent inside and fair to good on outside. Not worth $10,000.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    42 mpg with my automatic Golf TDI and I was smiling ear to ear when I filled up today and there was a $0.39/gallon price difference in favor of diesel. WOOHOO!
  • jtrujillo86jtrujillo86 Member Posts: 300
    True market value for it was around 9,800 or something. I think I'm gonna have to pass on her for two reasons:

    #1 - The price, like you said. I was thinking (I don't do that too often) and came to the conclusion that 10K is over the top.

    #2 - I wouldn't mind having a TDI, but since I don't know very much about them, I'm weary about getting a 98 with 63K on her, in case something happens. Most stuff with my car I can do, but the diesel thing is new to me.

    Maybe I'll just settle for a 99.5 Jetta. We'll see...

    Jeremy
  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    Ok guys, I must be doing something wrong. I see postings of people getting 45-50mpg. I'm not getting it. I'm only getting 42mpg out of a 02 GLS TDI automatic. And that's after I did a complete service to include installing a K&N airfilter and running Diesel Kleen through the system to clean out the injectors. Granted I am running with A/C on, but I keep that tuned down. I was hoping to get 45mpg out this car. Not a happy camper.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    First off, the EPA rating is 34/45 for an automatic and 42/49 for a manual 5 speed. So a decrease of 5 to 8 mpg is one of the penalties of an automatic vs manual. So 50 mpg-5-8 mpg is 42-45 mpg.= normal or to be expected. You also dont state your speeds and driving condition and or passenger and luggage loading.

    Second, the K/N filter is not advertised to FILTER better than the stock . In fact the stock filter is best for longevity. If it were me I would go back to the stock or oem filter.

    The Diesel Kleen is a good product and not only a cetane boost, provides lubricity which is better to the pump system over the long haul and it helps to trap H2O in your fuel system.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (vwinva) There are several 'factors' that can affect the MPG. (Dragging brakes, Injection Timing, Cetane...etc)

    I can second what ruking1 is taying about "Diesel Kleen". I run about 6oz at EVERY fillup. The benifets are tremendus. Until the better-quality diesel fuel becomes available in 2005, I plan on using a Cetane-booster/lubricant.

    As for your MPG... too bad that you ended up with an automatic. If you are looking for the best MPGs. an automatic tranny should not be used.

    Are you aware that the very best economy is at about 1800 RPM. (about 55MPH in 5th gear)

    What was your MPG while the "Diesel Kleen" was in the fuel?

    For the record, I have not gone below 50MPG for the last 5 tankfuls. averaging about 52MPG with 'country' driving. (with AC on full... it has been HUMID!)
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #750

    I was also thinking that to aid in managing both your expectations and the actual vehicle with the automatic, here are some other penalty issues. (gas mileage we have already discussed) 1. automatics with belts, especially VW will need belt changes more often. 2. In addition to the performance penalty, there is also a slight weight penalty, for the automatic's "physical plant" weighs more than the stick shift's. 3. The rule of thumb for mileage penalty is for every 100#'s it will set you back 1-3 mpg. 4. While you can not see it, for every 100#'s of weight you need 10hp more to overcome the weight. 5. Brakes, tires, shocks/struts and springs will wear FAR faster than a similar stick shift model (all things being equal, which they never are) 6. acceleration, cornering, braking will be slower 7. Again all things being equal, again they never are, automatics will require more maintenance than a stick shift. 8. In the high performance world, (specifically Z06 Corvettes) the "parasitic loss" on stick shift is app 10-15% as measured on a dyno. To put some numbers to it 385 hp/385# ft of torque x 11% parasitic loss= -minus 42.35 hp/#ft of torque= 343 hp/#ft of torque. The same car, but automatic's figures are more like 20-25%. While I would GUESS it would be similar for the VW, I have run across NO threads that discuss this at all!!
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Quote- 1. automatics with belts, especially VW will need belt changes more often.-end

    Incorrect.

    Timing belt requires change at 80,000 miles on 02 and 100,000 on 03 for manual transmission or auto. No difference. The new belt and tensioner is applicable to all 99 1/2 to current TDI manual or auto transmission.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Will greater weight equal greater wear? Yes. Is .0000001 less than .0000002? Yes.

    53 lbs is the difference in weight between a GL 4 door Golf TDI manual and automatic. This will not result in any detectable difference in component wear. It is not a valid reason for transmission choice for anyone with any common sense.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    http://www.vw.com/SP/SchedMaint.jsp?displayMode=Next&makeCode- - =JETTA&year=2003&engine=TDI&odometer=700&units=MI- - LES&submit=Display+Maintenance

    Perhaps a look at the technical item list will further demonstrate why early belt changes can be needed. If you do the check timing belt correctly, it is truly a more than make sure it is there procedure. In fact you are measuring tolerances. So obviously this is a precurser to doing a belt change earlier than say scheduled. Be that as it may, just this weekend, I witnessed the after math of 5/9 belt changes and saw three belt changes. The belts on first glance look remarkably similar both on automatics and the manuals. However, at closer look there were more cracks in the automatics' belts than any of the manual ones'One automatic owners response to this was "MADE IT by the skin of my teeth". But as you will probably agree ALL belts could have gone longer, but at what point do they REALLY break? As you know belt braking can cause catastrophic damage within 100 yards, necessitating almost a new motor or massive work, ie massive dollars if not under warranty.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #754

    Well, I am not the one complaining about poor gas mileage due to transmission choice. 53#'s is not the SOLE reason by any means, but by common sense, they ALL add up. Also, in the performance market getting rid of 53#'s is almost a Herculean task. In fact I would hazard a guess that for the OEM to get rid of 53#'s would require a massive redesign, given all the plethora of design parameters. So if you dont think it is a big deal, it ain't! But again 45 mpg vs 49 EPA rated mpg is probably no big deal to you also!? Or in the confines of the range, 5-8 mpg is no big deal???
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