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Chevy Vans: Problems & Solutions

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  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    The thermostat is most likly sticking. Refer to my post #1175 under Astro/Safari it explains where to find the thermostat.
  • mib4ukmib4uk Member Posts: 5
    I have an '02 Astro AWD that jerks when turning. Feels like something is hanging up or getting in a bind. Feels to be coming from rear of vehicle. Does it turning left or right. The tighter the turn, the worse it is. Only does it in forward, not in reverse. Only does it after about 15 minutes of driving, not when cold. Rear end was completely rebuilt in August '05. Problem started December '05. Shop says there's nothing wrong, just drive it. They do recommend replacing shocks which are weak. Any help is appreciated.
  • neveragain1neveragain1 Member Posts: 11
    Just an update since the last one - GM did not come good for the fuel sending unit but since I took it to a new garage, it cost only $500. Re-routed wires, sprayed water on coil, coil wire, spark plug wires, etc and nothing acted strange.Hoped problem was solved. Nope. Yesterday it nearly stalled going up a hill near our house.Luckily got it home before it quit - turned off the motor and a sulphur smell came into the van. I've smelled this once before. Today, again, drives good and then going up a hill, it starts bucking and nearly stalling. Put it into a lower gear and nothing improved. Now back at the garage again.

    Has anyone else had this problem? I really could use your help on it - we are heading south with it or renting if we have to, by the end of the week! HELP!!
  • toast44toast44 Member Posts: 2
    hi i need some advice. my 1997 venture bangs going into second gear.almost all of th time. i had tranny flushed approx 8k miles ago. it didn't help. fluid is now black again. i had to have water pump replaced 2 days ago. now when i get up to 50mph,vehicle "pulls back". it's as if i lost 4th gear. any suggestions?
  • huntersredhuntersred Member Posts: 1
    how do you fix if the window is just off track is it a matter of just putting it back on?
  • xxyjoexxxxyjoexx Member Posts: 2
    we own venture 2000 and i have the following problems with the wipers:
    the front wipers works only on the high and dos not move at any others speeds and when i switch it off it stops on the top and dos not go back home
    the rear one dos not move it only make noisy sounds
    anybody can help
    thanks in advance
  • mellenmellen Member Posts: 2
    Our specific problem was the directional lights didn't work on the outside and inside the hazard lights came on each time the brakes were used. This started a few days following our using the tow hitch.

    Our hazard light circuit board was shorted due to the previous owners installing the wrong wiring harness for the tow hitch (our mechanic says there is a specific one for the Venture). The fix cost us 300.00 but so far so good!

    I hope this is helpful to someone.
  • familyof5familyof5 Member Posts: 7
    I have a Venture 2000. It intermittenly Stalls on hills (mostly). Bloody dangerous. I loose control of the car till I can stop, put it in Park and restart again. I just towed it to the mechanic shop. So far for him, it does not stall. I wish I had an answer too. I will do more research.
  • familyof5familyof5 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 Chevy Venture with 150,000km. It intermittenly stalls on curving hills up or down. Very dangerous. It usually starts again after I stop, put it in Park. I just left it with the Mechanic and it is not stalling for him. He thinks it may be a fuel pump. Problem is, this cost $700 bucks and is no guarantee it will work. I just found this site, so I will keep researching for others like me. Any suggestions would be appreciated. It has not had a tune up for a long time.
  • jpracingklubjpracingklub Member Posts: 2
    Help. lastnite i pick girl up from work and coming home the check engine light can on. car was jerking hard after i accelarated. finally made it home. i went to auto zone in the morning (today) and got a code read. P0742 TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH CIRCUIT STUCK ON. so, i call the local gmc shop. they are asking $680 to repair this problem plus they are saying i need another which they never say what other parts. The parts cost $63 and the other $47.They said " they would have to drop the rail and take out the tranny and put the parts and also do a diagnostic check to make sure $85" i would like to know if this is true. and also would like to know if i could do the work myself cost my $$ is funny. don't have $680. last month i had to spent alone a grand to get it fit $980. thats another story. "HAS ANYONE ENCOUNTER THIS PROBLEM AND WHAT DID THEY DO"
  • flower60flower60 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info on the window. My driver's side has been bad for a while and now the passenger side is starting to do the same thing. My hubby is going to try to fix it this weekend (if the van isn't in the shop because the engine light came on today.
  • flower60flower60 Member Posts: 5
    So far, we have not had the leak over the console. My friend has. Her van is identical to mine. My windows don't work, there have been numerous recalls. Other fixes are trans, brakes,fuel injectors, and on and on and on..... Tailgate lock won't work. Now service engine light is on, temp gauge goes up (only 1/2 way) and we have to take it in yet again! My neighbor with the identical van has had all of these same problems. In fact, that is how we know ahead of time what is going to go wrong with ours. If her does it, our will! She just had the head gasket and some other things replaced. I'm assuming that is what is going wrong with my piece of crap van. I will NEVER EVER drive a GM product again (husband's 2000 Envoy has been crap too).
  • mitch42mitch42 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Venture.

    A few weeks ago, the van sat out overnight in <10 degree F weather. The locks started continuously unlocking every 20 seconds or so. I pulled the battery from my remote, just to be sure that wasn't it, and it didn't stop the problem. I pulled the fuse for the locks to be sure the battery wouldn't drain overnight, and flipped the switch on the overhead lights.

    The next day, after driving it a while, I replaced the fuse and the problem was no longer happening.

    Then we had a cold spell with temps below 0 F. The locks started acting up again. When I had the door open, it would give me a warning tone, like when you hit the lock button with the door open, but the locks were mostly trying to unlock, as far as I could tell. Even with the dask fuse for the power locks pulled, there was still a clicking behind the dash and the warning tone. I pulled a main fuse from under the hood to prevent battery drain. The next day, after replacing the fuse it was still happening, so I made an appointment with the dealer shop and took it in. By the time I got there, it had stopped happening.

    The dealer pulled the switches and inspected them for shorts. They said that was the most common problem with the locks acting up - the switches getting wet from rain or some other cause. They didn't find anything, and of course the problems wasn't happening for them.

    It happened again this past weekend when the van was left outside overnight. No warning tone, but the continuous clicking of some mechanism behind the dash even when the locks fuse was pulled. I took it in to the dealer, left it overnight so they could check it first thing in the morning. Of course, we've had some warmer weather, so the van didn't get as cold, I guess. They reported that nothing was going wrong for them.

    I left it out again last night just to see, and when I got up this AM the locks were at it again, along with the warning tone.

    I'm trying to get this fixed under the extended warranty, so I think they are hesitant to just start replacing things. If anyone has had this experience and could point us in some direction, I would really appreciate it.

    Thanks!
  • familyof5familyof5 Member Posts: 7
    Just an update. $1477 bucks later. The mechanic had the car for a week trying to see if the car would stall. Weird thing, would not stall for him during the day, it finally stalled for him when I told him to drive it home in the evening. He b-lined it back to the shop as it freeked him out too. Turns out the Fuel Pump ($777 bucks) needed replacing. He also let me know the front break were shot, lucky me. Soooo, no more stalling and my wallet is feeling mighty lighter now. At least I don't feel like I am going to stall out and crash when I take the family out.
  • scott808scott808 Member Posts: 3
    I own a 1995 Chevy Astro with about 148K miles, 4.3 V-6, "W" engine. Over the past several months, the engine has developed a pronounced misfire. Gas mileage has dropped considerably from 20 to 22MPG to just over 16MPG with no change in my driving habits or distances. It's at the point now where it's almost undriveable.

    I've had it in to my mechanic who has replaced plugs, checked wires (judged okay), fuel filter, and replaced the oxygen sensor. When my mechanic pulled the plugs, although not abnormally worn, he noted that the 3 left bank plugs were "normal" in color while the 3 right bank plugs were very dark...he thought indicating a rich mixture on that side of the engine. I've seen the old parts and can confirm his observations.

    Previously, in late 1992, the following items were replaced (mileage was about 112K miles): fuel pump & strainer, fuel filter, throttle position sensor, EGR valve, plugs, distributor cap, distributor rotor, distributor ignition control module, ignition coil, plug wires, idle air control valve, fuel injectors and spider, and the engine control PROM.

    My mechanic now believes there may be a problem with the distributor itself and wants to replace it.

    I think he's guessing...while I don't necessarily mind that, he's guessing with my checkbook which bothers me in light of the possibile, never ending, perhaps un-necessary replacement of what can be very expensive parts. The mechanic has had the vehicle in his shop for over 2 weeks and there's no end in sight at this point.

    Is there anyone out there who might be able to give me an idea of what might be wrong here? What could cause the plugs on one side of the engine to look as tho the mixture might be to rich? The service engine light has not come on. My mechanic tells me that the vehicle "computer" has registered no problems.

    Previous to this, for the most part, the engine has run well inspite of high mileage.

    Hope someone has a few ideas besides finding a new mechanic!

    Anything is appreciated.
  • jhortonjhorton Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Chevy Venture that I purchased new last year. After a few months, I noticed a mildew smell coming from the vents when I put on the AC or outside vent. After 20 minutes or so the smell seems to go away. I've had the AC and ducts cleaned out twice and the in cabin filter changed twice, but the smell comes back. It seems to happen only during the summer months (in Texas that's almost year round). Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can get this problem corrected? When I take the van in to get the problem fixed, it is only temporary and the smell returns!! :cry:
  • ventureowner1ventureowner1 Member Posts: 3
    Intermittant problem 2003 Venture/61K miles. Van stalls when attempting to stop. There's not chugging when it stalls. It cranks right back and keeps going. GM mechanics did not find any codes nor could they duplicate. Has anyone experienced this problem/found solution? Past repairs: water pump
  • jyoung15jyoung15 Member Posts: 12
    i have a 2000 venture and it stalls the same way it turned out to be the fuel pump at #6664.00 hope this helps :mad:
  • jyoung15jyoung15 Member Posts: 12
    post #431 should have said $664.00 and it fixed that problem and made anouther check engine light can on
  • familyof5familyof5 Member Posts: 7
    Same thing with mine, except it happened on hills. Turned out it was a fuel pump problem. Cost $777 just for the part. Doesn't stall any more after the mechanic replaced the fuel pump. One thing that does hurt, my wallet is alot lighter now.
  • jyoung15jyoung15 Member Posts: 12
    guess i was lucky then the part cost $425.00 the rest was labor but know my check engine ligfht comes on and i get a code for the vapor recovery canister did not have any codes before they changed the fuel pump any ideas :mad:
  • ventureowner1ventureowner1 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for responding, jyoung15 and familyof5. This info would not be as alarming to me if we were talking about a vehicle that had 150+K miles. However, I only have 61K miles on this van, taking care to do scheduled maintenance as suggested. I'm a repeat Chevy buyer and have been happy with each one; 96 Astro - lived to see 182K miles and a small repair history, 96 Silverado - 242K miles and small repair history, 99 Lumina - currently 175K miles and still going with only a small repair history. Again all have been good vehicles, lasting a very long time, and costing less in repairs than this particular Chevy vehicle. Until recently (>50K miles), I've been very satisfied with it. I've already paid $1300 in repairs in the last 5 months for this van.
  • jyoung15jyoung15 Member Posts: 12
    mine only had 93000 when the problem started and i have heard that it has happened to people with as little as 35000 so hope this makes you feel better you can find the fuel pump on e-bay for about $128.00 instead of 448.00 from the dealer or auto zone has it for $280.00 good luck and keep me informed :lemon:
  • jericnyjericny Member Posts: 2
    Ok, I jacked the van tried to move the wheel and didn't see any excessive play. I changed the idler arms they were worn and showed some play, but the noise remains. Seems to be coming from the driver side and happens on bumps or uneven road. The noise sounds like something is loose and going to fall off, any ideas or someone who had a similiar problem?
  • jyoung15jyoung15 Member Posts: 12
    it sounds like you may have a bad struit or its loose at the mounting bracket. does it make the noise on even roads or any other time :mad:
  • jericnyjericny Member Posts: 2
    There are shocks and a spring up front, smooth roads are ok just when you hit tiny or big bumps will you hear the noise and more to from the middle to driver side front of the vehicle. :confuse:
  • cuzzxcuzzx Member Posts: 3
    I just bought a 1989 Chevy van for an extra work van.
    noticed the a/c vents will not let air past.
    must be the vacume hoses or what do you think?
    with van running and a/c on I get no air at all through the vents.
    ideas?
  • tkjensentkjensen Member Posts: 1
    My van blows hot and cold air out of the vents. It is just very weak--no matter what setting I put it on (1-5). Any thoughts as to what is causing this????
  • jyoung15jyoung15 Member Posts: 12
    when you are driving does the air go from hot to cool then back to hot and when you speed up the fan does it go faster sounds like you may need a can of freon that your ac is low. and do you have the ac on max and the fan all the way to 5 keep me informed :cry:
  • kcutshallkcutshall Member Posts: 1
    My Venture has 64K miles and had to replace the fuel pump about 1 month ago. I had the same thing occur 1 month after replacing the pump. I had it towed to a repair center but they could not find anything wrong. It started right up at the repair center but i'm worried it may start again. It would turn over but would not start. I listened at the gas tank but could not hear the fuel pump running. Any ideas guys?????? :confuse:
  • jyoung15jyoung15 Member Posts: 12
    had the same problem and found that the electrical connection plug that goes to the fuel pump was not plugged all the way in the terminal is right between sliding rear door and the drivers seat under the van pull it out and use come electrical contact cleaner you can get at radio shack then plug it back in hope that helps :(
  • ronbo66ronbo66 Member Posts: 11
    TWo things do you have steel wheels with the black centre caps that encompass the lug nuts? if so these things are held on with metal tabs from behind the lug nuts they can get loose and there you have your rattle! If you have the one piece aluminum mag wheels then you can also try this; while going over a known bumpy road that you can hear the rattle try gently pressing on your BRAKE pedal while holding your speed with the other foot, IF the noise goes away then whomever installed your brake pads forgot to STAKE (bend down)the large metal tabs that hold you brake pads from rattling you can also use some brake backing plate glue but sometimes this wears off. then they rattle again HOPE THIS HELPS! RON Y.
  • texas4texas4 Member Posts: 11
    we have a 2000 chevy venture, with 68,000 miles..i have been reading all the issues about gasket problems, and have a question... what are the symptoms when these start going bad ??
    we need to try to keep van for as long we can... would like to know what to look for when these gasket problems start....thanks
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    Keep an eye on your coolent level. The gasket that leaks is the lower intake manifold gasket. It will either leak coolent into the oil or onto the ground outside the motor. Watch for leaks on the garage floor, remember the coolent is red may appear like transmission fluid.
  • mccullonmccullon Member Posts: 2
    my 98 astor van service engine soon light came on. auto zone said it was a low level oxygen sensor. van seems to run a little bit ruff, but otherwise the same as always. I recently had new rear brakes installed and the van inspected. what will happen if I do not have the oxygen sensor replaced. I need to take a 10 trip to Illinois and wonder if it would be safe to go.
  • bell5bell5 Member Posts: 3
    1990 chevy G20 conversion van with 5.7L (350). It jumped time and I got the timimg chain & gears in time but when I put distibutor on #1 it wont start.I turned it 180 degrees and it starts but backfires and just don't run right.PLEASE HELP!!!!
  • bell5bell5 Member Posts: 3
  • bell5bell5 Member Posts: 3
    I NEED HELP PLEASE!! My wife's 1990 G20 jumped time.I replaced timing chain & gears & it is definately in time but when I put the distributor on #1 it won't crank. I tuned distributor 180 degrees and it started but backfires and just don't run right.I have worked on these type of chevy engines for years bet never encountered this problem. PLEASE HELP IF YOU CAN!!
  • falicity_98falicity_98 Member Posts: 1
    We have a 1999 venture with 62,000 miles on it. First we had the intake manifold gasket replaced, then they said the head gasket blew. Drove it for about 2 weeks after that and we noticed ALL the oil gone out of it and the radiator had a thick cream color liquid in it. The overflow tank had what we thought was oil in it but the mechanic said it was tranny fluid. He also said that was what was in the radiator. We asked him where all our oil went and he said "hmm....I don't know". So we had a new radiator put in. Drive 10 miles, oil in overflow tank again. Put it back in the shop. It won't be looked at until Mon. (24th). Any ideas of what could be wrong? We're trying to sell it but it has to run first! :)
  • ventureowner1ventureowner1 Member Posts: 3
    Similar thing happened on our chevy car. Engine light came on and wouldn't go off. Occasionally it would run a little rough - as if there was water in the gas? Turned out we had replaced a gas cap that wasn't a proper fit. Mechanic said it was not creating the necessary vacumn or seal. Cheap fix and it worked. Engine light went off. Good Luck
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    If you have the cam gear and crank gear lined up correctly. I assume you turned the motor until #1 cylinder was at TDC (by pulling the plug and feeling for the compression stroke on #1. Then drop the distributor in at #1 it should start up and run correctly. If you turned it 180 and it backfires than it sounds as though it should be turned back 180 deg. The only other thing it could be is valve train damage due to the jumped timing but, I don't think that a 350 is an interfearance engine.
  • cobcob Member Posts: 210
    You can run with a bad sensor for a while but one of 2 things will happen. Your van may run rich resulting in poor fuel economy and black smoke out the exhaust and gas going by the rings into your oil eventually. Your van could also run too lean which would give you better fuel economy but the motor will run hot and may burn a hole thru the top of a piston. I would get the O2 sensor replaced before too long.
  • jyoung15jyoung15 Member Posts: 12
    have the same problem the check engine light comes on and when i have it scannered says the fuel vapor canister did not have this problem till i had the fuel pump replaced because the gas gauge was not working correctly any ideas :lemon:
  • gigginpiggigginpig Member Posts: 3
    Checked your tie rods?
  • gigginpiggigginpig Member Posts: 3
    Okay: Van started vibrating on the freeway. It's a grinding vibration that you can feel in the pedal and steering wheel and floorboards. Not a "shimmy". I've had a tune up, brake job, front end repair, alignment, balance, etc., all to no avail. Engine runs and idles flawlessly. Trans shifts perfectly. On the freeway, I put car in Neutral and coasted/swerved on clean pavement. Vibration seems to be more prominent when veering LEFT. I'm thinking wheel bearings or u-joint, but I'd appreciate any suggestions.
  • texas4texas4 Member Posts: 11
    Cob,
    thanks.....i'll keep an eye on the oil for signs of coolant....and on the floor where we park....
  • budlybudly Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    I have a 2004 Chevy Astro Cargo van.
    A paper or a bag was sucked up into the intake for the AC
    from the floor.
    Any ideas on how to get it out?

    Thanks,
    Budly
  • mccullonmccullon Member Posts: 2
    I had the 02 sensor replaced on the right manifold before the catalic converter, using a generic part at half the price of major brand part. the service engine light went off. Most of the auto part stores in my area did not carry the part, either brand name or generic. My mechanic said that the other two sensors may go bad soon and we could replace them easily.
  • wizardrickwizardrick Member Posts: 1
    i am putting a 305 in a 92 astro have done this before in an older model but the 92 throttle control is located in the front of the engine and is what the mec. calls a tuneport like throttle body how do we change it so we can use the side mounted throttle contrpl on the carbated 305
  • gigginpiggigginpig Member Posts: 3
    Yes. Tie rods (left and right) have been replaced, along with both idlers, and the drag link. That pretty much constitutes a completely new front end...
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