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Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)
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Comments
Check your states lemon law. A door that won't close properly, that the dealership is unable to fix, is a good reason for the dealer to refund your money.
Any ideas about what may be happening ?? Thanks !
2. The Driver door is about 4millimeters, 1/8th of an inch out of allignment with the frame.
3. I get a clanking sound from where I think the transmission is when I put the car in drive when it's cold and backing out of the driveway.
4. Engine refinement is better in my 2000 Honda CRV-SE with 80,000 miles in it. I get a rough "feeling" from the steering wheel at 2000-2800 rpm's while accelerating gently.
5. FUEL Economy is dismal. I got better MPG from my 2000 BMW M5 putting around the town than this thing. I'm getting 290 miles a tank! CRAP!
Anyone out there think I'm crazy or have you seen the same thing?
Thanks.
Honda raised the bar on quality and what to expect when you own a honda product so you expect nothing short of perfection when you get one.
1. I love the ride on the Odyssey
2. I love the stereo.
3. I love the leather.
4. I love the quiet cabin.
5. I love the performance of the engine.
6. I love the breaks
7. I love the style
8. I love the features...
I could go on and on. I've tried to drive a grand caravan, and other domestic vehicles, and there are more things I can't live with on those cars than any odyssey I've come across.
Maybe this is why the German automakers are starting to produce cross over vehicles...
I still love my 05 Odys, but sometimes I worry that it may not last 100K miles like typical Honda products. Things that concern me:
1. Reliability of its Auto Transmission (the most)
2. Brake Performance
3. Power Sliding doors
jt
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Maybe, just maybe......since the domestic designs are provened, tested, and have been in production a number of years, there just are no major teething problems? You can look at the DCX problem area, and see people are having problems with their 1995-2002 minivans, they're posting issues and asking for advice. Same is true for previous gen Oddys. My 05 DCX has been completely trouble free - not a single problem or recall.
Isn't the Oddy being built in a brand new plant? with brand new workers? building a brand new design? Whereas the DCXs are using existing plants, same workers, and same basic design.
socalawd........did you catch the condescending "inferior"???
YES!!! I have to admit, and while I'm at it, will speak for everyone who hasn't purchased a Honda Ody..... I bought my DCX with expectations of having many more problems!!! I'm sure everyone who didn't buy an Ody feels the same way too!! I was hoping to go back to the dealership for free coffee, donuts and car washes! I feel very cheated by DCX......how dare they produce an obvious inferior product with no recalls or major problems!!! That's what I wanted and expected!!!! I'm soooo upset with DCX, I'm gonna find myself a lawyer and sue them!!!!
A "remanufactured" tranny should be every bit as good as a new one. It is not "rebuilt" which is more of a "bench top" procedure in a shop (aamco, etc.). A remanufactured tranny is typically a reused case with all new parts inside. It's done in an extremely clean, nearly sterile, environment on an assembly line just like a new one is built. There are new ones that leak from day one as well, that shouldn't have happened and you should have gotten it fixed. Could have been something simple like when the dealer installed the new pan/fluid. I would have no problems receiving a factory remanufactured tranny. I'd leave the "rebuilds" to the cars with higher mileage.
Its really frustrating because its noisier than my Civic.Anyway, I just want to know what did you tell the dealer to convince them to fix it. Thanks-RN :confuse:
a) Noise from the brakes. The pads were replaced and the rotors resurfaced, both under warranty. That has taken care of it.
b) Whistling noise from the windshield. Dealer asked me to drop off the car at the dealership to fix it. I am not in that much of a hurry to fix this, since I can live with it for a bit longer.
No other problems (keeping my fingers crossed) !
Well then maybe not. Of course this comes from someone who thinks these forums are the bottom line on cars. All other sources that are not of his opinion are void. BTW my 05 Ody has had no issues ethier and no recalls.
Isn't the Oddy being built in a brand new plant? with brand new workers? building a brand new design? Whereas the DCXs are using existing plants, same workers, and same basic design.
While I will admit the DCX has come a long way. The 2005' s will probably be about the same for reliability when the ever biased CR reports come out.
socalawd........did you catch the condescending "inferior"???
I catch something you know this is a Honda problem & solution and the only reason your here is to make fun of people's problems. Also I catch some Honda envy, it's ok let it out!
I think my explanation is more plausible then any offered so far. I note you offered nothing, just attacks on my opinion.
I catch something you know this is a Honda problem & solution and the only reason your here is to make fun of people's problems. Also I catch some Honda envy, it's ok let it out!
Again, have I made fun of someone's problems??? Have I attacked anyone??? All I did was offer a possible explanation, and point out the attitude.
Thank You.
Thank You.
Could it be that the iVTEC engine is not as good as advertised? I notice that cylinder deactivation doesn't really help the 2WD Pilot get much better milage than the 4WD Pilot without cylinder deactivation even though the 2WD version weighs less to boot. After being a a believer, I am now doubtful. If you're listening, Honda, I want you to know that I'm disappointed.
The SAE recently tightened the chain on how auto makers can report horse power (no more tests with no A/C, reduced engine oil amounts, etc.). Maybe the EPA will require auto makers to come to the tests with a vehicle right off the assembly line in the future.
Does anyone know what kind of fuel consumption rating the new Ody gets in Canada--they actually do real road testing up there. Of course, we don't know if the vehicles are tuned differently.
Explaination for what?? The fact that people don't post in the DCX forums? I explained this many times but you think otherwise it's really no bother to me. The reliability is probably very close. There just isn't much posted on the DCX board. Heck there is a investagation on 2001-2002 DCX vans where 35,000 vans had warrenty work flickering/dimming and shuting off headlights. Not a one in the DCX forum. Wierd no normal, they just aren't interested.
Again, have I made fun of someone's problems??? Have I attacked anyone??? All I did was offer a possible explanation, and point out the attitude.
You constantly find one of a kind problems and then push them as normal. Here's a typicial quote! No you don't attack people individually you go for the whole group!
I go to the Dodge problem area and some poor guy is having problems with his 1994 Caravan. At 150k miles he's putting a new tranny in it!!
Then I see on the Honda problem area that Honda is putting new trannys in their new Oddys!!!! Someone else got a whole new engine in their 2005 Oddy with 600 miles.
God! I thought Hondas were the zenith of perfection??? I thought Hondas never have problems??? I see comments about Dodges alway being at Dealerships and never lasting more than 80k miles.
What's going on here????
You called me out to look at someone elses opinion. I really could care less if he think domestics are inferior. That's his call(opinion) At least Penn State is doing well, so you should be happy LOL!
MrShiftright
Host
There is really no practical way to change the pedal position without doing major surgery on the linkage and related hardware.
My wife is 5' 2", and way back in college we had a block of 2x4" taped onto the pedal of her '69 Buick LeSabre so that she could reach it! Today, there are a good number of 'accessability shops' that can modify almost anything on a car to make it more fit for the handicapped (God forbid that should ever get back to my spouse!!!). But seriously, check out one of these shops. I am sure that they have big rubber blocks that graft onto the pedal for this purpose.
Steve
Where can we get the data on cars from testing the "real" way in Canada. I'd like to see what different cars get for results.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I had a better experience with 2000 Odyssey, only reason we turned it in was to get automatic doors....regretful.
the filter goes into an assembly situated behind the glovebox.
here's one method i followed to do the job. YMMV.
you remove the rubber bumper tabs on both sides of the glovebox (which snap in) allowing the glovebox to drop down. back out two screws holding the box hinges, and remove the glovebox from your field of work.
you cut away a horizontal section of dash material (which probably added rigidity when the dash was originally installed in the car). it can be cut at both ends using metal snips, or a utility knife. this piece which must be removed hides a horizontal metal bracket obstructing access to the air/pollen/cabin filter door.
you back out two 8mm bolts to remove the metal bracket. you might want to see if you can leave the left-hand bolt backed out but still installed, removing the bolt on the right to see if you can get the bracket out of the way. the bolt on the left is a bear to re-install because it is situated behind the center dash garnish / multipurpose compartment door.
the filter compartment door un-snaps at the top and bottom.
observe the position of the filter. observe the direction of air-flow.
clear the area of debris. install the replacement filter in the proper position and orientation w.r.t. air-flow indication.
you need good light, patence, time, nerve.
when you are done, you'll wonder why they made this task so non-trivial.
Just follow the Honda instruction sheet for installation/removal.
(Although, I may try not removing the left screw. Instructions call for removing the center console stuff, but if it can be accomplished without that, it would save some time. ) After the first time, you don't have to cut out the temporary brace that is molded in to hold the dash parts straight during assembly.
I wouldn't have complained about using time if accessing the left-hand bolt were made easier. It just wasn't obvious how that center console stuff came off.
I'll let ya'll know how it goes. (pgriffinifd@aol.com)
.
I remember taking 2 screws out to completely drop the glovebox. You took the wrong ones off, perhaps? The ones to remove are the ones that go vertical from the floor, up through the hinge assembly on both sides.
2 screws and 2 8mm bolts. 1 piece of dash material (which you cut away and discard) covering the horizontal bar sits between you and success.
two reasons to make it difficult: one they can get then allow service people to do the work and that means more profit for the dealership, and two: i think that metal bar adds a great deal to cabin integrity. it is heavy gauge and it is formed to increase strength in two dimensions.
seems like they could have designed something a bit easier to maintain...i agree.
Let me clarify a bit. After I dropped the glovebox, I could see the metal bar. It was not covered by plastic at all. It has a phillips head screw on the left & one on the right. I removed both of these & the metal bar would not come out. I can feel at least one additional fastener of some sort on the left & at least one on the right. They are hidden under the plastic. It looks to me like more dash plastic is going to have to come out to get to these hidden screws/nuts/bolts or whatever they are before I am going to be able to get the bar removed.
http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Honda/1121410800000_1123225200000_04-078/index.html
I'm pretty sure it was enclosed in the package I got from HandA.
If not, it's available on their website for dnload.
I was almost certain that the real prblmatic screws were hex hd, either 6 or 8mm hex.
4 months later at just over 10k miles the right rear Wheel Bearing had a similar problem, and had to be replaced.