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Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)
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Comments
I'll get around to resetting that Maintenance Required light sometime soon. Perhaps this weekend...
Otherwise, this car has been the best vehicle I have ever owned. Spacious, comfortable, powerful, a great family vehicle for long trips.
Being the "grease monkey" type I am, and mechanically interested in vehicles, I tend to get my hands dirty quickly.
Good Luck!
The other noise I've heard and is normal on the Ody is a thump/clunk right after starting. If the A/C or defrost is on when you start the car, the compressor will make a noise the first time it turns on. This is due to pressure build-up when the engine is shut-down, also common on other vehicles but seems a bit loud on the Ody.
Other than that, it's probably not normal and needs looked at.
I don't understand the cost. I thought Honda gave that transmission a 100,000 mile warranty. I can understand the second being warrantied at 36,000.
I don't but I look around on the internet alot. Seems that there is some issue with the brake material. As far as I can tell it dosen't seem that it stops any different but I think Honda is coming out with a new brake pad. I can't geive you a link but search for Odyssey Forums and then look for 2005+ discussions there is a large tread in there!!
None of the earlier generation Odyssey problems (including the transmission issue) seem to affect the 2005+ models. So it is very difficult to make much sense from various posts about all kinds of problems that impacted previous generation (pre-2004) Odysseys, none of which are applicable to the current generation.
Please start a new discussion topic for the new generation Odysseys. I searched but did not find an option that would allow me to start a new discussion. TIA
Trying to get Honda Corporate to reimburse for the $1500 citing multiple articles refering to design defects of this model.
How has anyone been successful in getting Honda to reimburse a loyal customer for this?
Thank you.
Your explanation makes sense to me.
Thank you.
can you be more specific w.r.t. the vibration felt in the steering column? our odyssey has a very quiet engine and no engine induced vibration. if you needed a new front motor mount, i can imagine you had substantial vibration.
that said, three sets of tires in 50K? what tire do you have on your ODY? are you properly inflating and rotating the tires? does your vehicle need an alignment? the OEM tires on our LX lasted about 30K. we ran them slightly under-inflated, and my wife corners pretty hard (fast).
i believe, if your alignment is good, and if your tires are inflated properly and rotated every 7.5K, you shouldn't have gone through 3 sets in 50K, even if they were the OEMs.
2005 model was the redesign/3rd generation.
http://www.collegehillshonda.com/artman/publish/article_152.shtml
This is a ground up re-design, starting with the changing of the body structure and chassis to an "ACE" structure.
None of the problems commonly associated with the pre-2004 model years are present within the 2005/2006, specifically the infamous transmission issue.
The 2005/2006 has certain unique minor issues like wind noise from the windshield, noise from hard brake pads, characteristic boom when VCM (Variable cylinder management) is activated etc., none of which are applicable to the previous generation (pre-2004 model years).
The 2005/2006 Honda Pilot and the Acura MDX are based on the previous generation Odyssey platform and hence do not have the ACE body structure etc. A redesign of the Pilot/MDX based on the new Odyssey platform is supposedly in the works.
Honda Odyssey: Problems and Solutions: 2005+ models
thank you for the suggestion!
MrShiftright
Host
taking in monday.
It's a real disappointment is right.
new remanuf tranny seems ok, but who knows how long it is going to last
Shifty the Host
On the 1999-2004 Odyssey's, Honda's new owner manuals recommended that you change the timing belt at 90,000-mile intervals. However, it is highly suggested you consider changing the timing belt at 60,000 miles. Honda does use an "interference" engine design. If the timing belt does break or jump a notch while the engine is running, the results will "interfere" in a serious way with your long-term savings plan.
In an "interference" engine, it's possible for open valves to hit an upward-moving piston, resulting in a collision that could best be described as "apocalyptic."
Not sure of the 2005+ Odyssey's.
/direct/view/.efe9635/13!make=Honda&model=Odyssey&ed_ma- keindex=.efe9635
Thanks!
Only one time did I actually have to force the issue and have the fresh oil (5w-30) dumped and refilled with 5w-20. Someone in the shop second-guessed my request, and filled from the overhead system. I saw it thru the window, and it was listed on the receipt. I had to bring in the owners manual to prove that Honda specifically recommended against the use of 30 weight. The shop owner was apologetic, but it was a vivid reminder that not everyone in the shop gets it yet.
Now does it really matter? Who knows, but at least for the sake of the warranty, follow the mfgrs recommendation.
As lighter oils become more common, these types of problems should fade.
Steve
I'm in the Hudson Valley of NY, and run snows (Dunlop Wintersports) in the winter. They were a great improvement over the OEM Symmetry tires, especially for climing out of our steep, snow covered driveway. But you might find the HydroEdge to be a good enough tire to feel comfortable year round.
Steve
Steve
so it is really hard for the mechanics to duplicate the problem when they test drove the care (as a last resort
of their trouble shooting sesseion).
Any help from an expert is much appreciated.
Thanks.
Is the Hydroedge the best you can get for all year round perfomance? I live on Long Island in NY and we get a variety of weather.
Costco has them for $107/ tire including installation after a rebate. Is that a good price?
Any suggestions before taking it back to the dealer?
I have an 1995 Honda Odyssey that 5 months ago during a snow storm (roads were slick)I slid into a curb at about 5 to 10 mph and hit the passenger side front wheel and messed up the lower control arm according to the repair shop,(the wheel was pushed in on the bottom pretty good) ok so they replaced the arm with a recycled part and said it was ok. They also did an alignment on it, my wife is the primary driver and I did not drive the vehicle for about 2 weeks, when I drove it it still had a pull to the right and did not have any real vibration, (there is now a very violent vibration that has gotten worse month by month, the vibration coincides with every rotation of the wheel almost like a side to side rocking motion) and it has a visual slight push in on the bottom of the wheel still and I also noticed that the passenger side front end is lower than the driver side. I checked tire pressures, rotated wheels, lifted the front end and checked the ball joints and they appear ok, looked for anything obvious cannot see anything, so I thought that maybe the control arm they replaced was also bad so I replaced the control arm with a new one and it still has the vibration and pull, I noticed that the front swaybar where it connects to the lower arm does not line up real well, ok now why did the vibration go from nothing to really bad (wore out bushings or something on the other side?) could the frame gotten pushed where the arm attaches, why wouldn't it have shown when they aligned it, not sure where to start as far as replacement of more parts go, any advice would help.
Thanks