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1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the engine cover.
3. Disconnect the sensor electrical connector (comes in from the top)
4. Remove the timing belt front cover.
5. Remove the camshaft position sensor bolts.
6. Remove the camshaft position sensor from the top.
Install the camshaft position sensor and bolts. Tighten Tighten the camshaft position sensor bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb-in)
2. Install the timing belt front cover, the crankshaft pulley, the accessory drive belt, and the air filter. Refer to DOHC Engine Mechanical.
3. Connect the sensor electrical connector.
4. Install the engine cover.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
valve damage, probably yes.
The cheapest way to fix, is to logon on ebaymotors and buy a rebuilt head. It costs around $350. The timing belt and tensioners and rollers you can also get from ebay and they are cheap.
You would also need to get a gasket set (around $30).
The other option is to disassemble the head and see how many valves are bent, and just replace the valves, more labor intensive, though.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector.
3. Disconnect the air intake tube from the throttle body.
4. Remove the resonator retaining bolts and the resonator from the throttle body.
5. Disconnect the breather tube from the valve cover.
6. Remove the air filter housing bolts.
7. Remove the air filter housing.
8. Remove the right front wheel.
9. Remove the right front wheel well splash shield.
10. Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt. Refer to Steering; Power Steering Pump..
11. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolts.
12. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
13. Remove the right engine mount bracket. Refer to Engine Mount; Service and Repair.
14. Remove the power steering hose clamp bolt, and position the hose clear of the repair area.
15. Remove the front timing belt cover bolts.
16. Remove the front timing belt cover.
17. Using the crankshaft gear bolt, rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the timing mark on the crankshaft gear is aligned with the notch at the bottom of the rear timing belt cover. Notice: The camshaft gears must align with the notch on the valve cover or damage to the engine could result.
18. Align the camshaft gears with the notch on the valve cover. Important: Use the intake gear mark for the intake camshaft gear and the exhaust gear mark for the exhaust camshaft gear since both gears are interchangeable.
19. Loosen the automatic tensioner bolt. Turn the hex key tab to relieve belt tension.
20. Remove the timing belt.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft gear with the notch on the bottom of the rear timing belt cover.
2. Align the timing marks on the camshaft gears, using the intake gear mark for the intake gear and the exhaust gear mark for the exhaust gear.
3 Install the timing belt.
4. Turn the hex-key tab in a counterclockwise direction to tension the belt. Turn until the pointer aligns with the notch.
5. Install the automatic tensioner bolt. Tighten Tighten the timing belt automatic tensioner bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) .
6. Rotate the crankshaft two full turns clockwise using the crankshaft gear bolt.
7. Recheck the automatic tensioner pointer.
8. Install the front timing belt cover.
9. Install the front timing belt cover bolts. Tighten Tighten the front timing belt cover bolts to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .
10. Install the right engine mount bracket. Refer to Engine Mounts; Service and Repair.
11. Position the power steering hose in place and install the clamp bolt. Tighten Tighten the power steering hose clamp bolt to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.) .
12. Install the crankshaft pulley.
13. Install the crankshaft pulley bolts. Tighten Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) .
14. Install the serpentine accessory drive belt. Refer to Steering; Power Steering Pump.
15. Install the right front wheel well splash shield.
16. Install the right front wheel.
17. Install the air filter housing.
18. Install the air filter housing bolts. Tighten Tighten the air filter housing bolts to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.) .
19. Install the resonator and the retaining bolts. Tighten Tighten the resonator retaining bolts to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.) .
20. Connect the air intake tube to the throttle body.
21. Connect the breather tube to the valve cover.
22. Connect the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector.
23. Connect the negative battery cable.
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I have a 1996 model Daewoo Cielo. The problem is that after a few minutes of driving, the engine indicator light starts blinking and the engine stops and starts as the light blinks.It had a major service just a few weeks back in which the techs replaced the gasket. I am not sure whats going on.
Please help. truly desperate.
Best Regards,
G.Papi
So does anyone know how to remove the dash, then the plastic covers to get to the heater core? Also does anyone have a source for a good repair manual? I have a Chiltons for import vehicles, but it is not comprehensive enough.
Thanks for any help
Any ideas?
My remote key actually broke in half. Thank the Lord it didn't break off in the ignition. I ordered spare keys and open the doors with the remote and start with one of the spares.
You can't just order a remote, even with the key code. Someone has to reset this when you purchase a new remote which takes about an hour.
If you want further information regarding Daewoo keys, you can contact C&O Motors 304 727 2921
Also, may I ask where C&O Motors might be located since I have to drive from Florida to PA?
THANKS! ;-)
I hope with the new timing belt, plugs, and wires and a good injector cleaner it will clear up after the long highway drive at 75 - 80! :surprise:
As for the mpg, I got around 30-32 on the interstate. Obviously, city driving drops that way down. Where I live there is a traffic light every thousand yards whether we need one or not,.,...
My sympathies to you for the loss of your mom.
I plugged in the Scan Tool and the only code I get is a P0452 EVAP low.
How do I fix that?
And will this keep the car from starting?
Also the Scan tool says 3Ready: Misfire/Fuel/Comp. Which I think has to do with the car not starting. ?not sure.
Thanks..
Here's some ideas:
System Description
The evaporative emission (EVAP) system includes the following components:
* Fuel tank.
* EVAP vent solenoid.
* Fuel tank pressure sensor.
* Fuel pipes and hoses.
* Fuel vapor lines.
* Fuel cap.
* EVAP canister.
* Purge lines.
* EVAP canister purge valve.
* EVAP service port.
The EVAP system is checked by applying vacuum to the EVAP system and monitoring for a vacuum decay. The powertrain control module (PCM)/engine control module (ECM) monitors the vacuum level through the fuel tank pressure sensor signal.
At the appropriate time, the EVAP canister purge valve and the EVAP vent solenoid are turned ON, allowing the engine to draw a small vacuum on the entire EVAP system. After the desired vacuum level has been achieved, the EVAP canister purge valve is turned OFF, sealing the system.
The PCM/ECM supplies a 5 v reference signal and a ground to the Fuel Tank Pressure sensor. The fuel tank pressure sensor sends a voltage signal back to the PCM/ECM relative to the fuel tank pressure. The voltage signal will vary from 0.2 v to 4.8 v.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
* Output is less than 0.1 volts (5 A/D counts)
* Ignition ON.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
* The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will illuminate on the second consecutive drive trip that the diagnostic runs and fails.
* The PCM/ECM will record operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. This information will be stored in the Freeze Frame and Failure Records buffers.
* A history Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is stored.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
* The MIL will turn off after three consecutive ignition cycles in which the diagnostic runs without a fault.
* A history DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles without a fault.
* DTC(s) can be cleared by using a scan tool.
I know there was a recall on the CMP sensor( Cam Position Sensor) for my year and model but it was replaced and the engine was running fine afterwords. Secondly if it was at fault a code should have popped up.
So the only thing I can think of is a bad ECU.
What do you guys think?
The Good:
Spark
Fuel
Comp
Intake
Cranks Freely without abnormal noises.
Healthy Timing Belt with marks lined up correctly.
Fresh New Battery as of July 12 2008
All Fuses and Relays working properly.
New Fuel Filter
New Spark Plugs
The Bad:
No Start :mad:
So what does this tell me? That the timing is in fact ok? or could it be clogged Inj or bad FPR?
IMO It seems that there isn't enough fuel getting to the motor. What yall think.
The motor sounds good when it was running on Carb cleaner.
Still no start.
Wow I changed just about every single part on this car and it still will not start. I've never experienced this in my entire life no wonder they no longer make these cars.
OK All parts changed and checked as of today:
Spark
Fuel
Comp
Intake
Cranks Freely without abnormal noises.
Healthy Timing Belt with marks lined up correctly.
Fresh New Battery as of July 12 2008
All Fuses and Relays working properly.
New Fuel Filter
New Spark Plugs
New Injectors
New FPR
New CMP
And
It will not Fire up.
Anyone out there please HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
The pump turns on but theirs no fuel coming out. Brand new pump with a half tank full of gas. lol this is the weirdest thing.
Why would the pump cycle but no fuel coming out?
PLEASE SOMEONE ANYONE HELP ME!!
Here is what has been replaced/repaired so far:
Spark plugs
Fuel filter
O2 Sensor (Engine block)
EGR
O2 Sensor (Catalytic Converter)
Fuel Pump
Would there be any other reason why the pump is weak on supplying proper fuel pressure? Is the voltage supposed to be higher? Or is the new pump still bad?
Thanks to that one and only guy who replied to my post for helping.
So if anyone is reading this with similar problems I had a weak pump. It did receive the correct voltage but it wasn't pumping hard enough.
Here's a link explaining the whole process and more.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us60324.htm
The car still rides smoothly with the light on (i drove it 400 miles over the weekend with the light flashing)
The crankshaft pulley, timing belt, spark plugs and spark plug wires are all new.
There is some oil leaking in the first cylinder but the spark plug itself doesn't have any oil on it.
Anyone have any suggestions on what to try to try and fix this problem?
The safety switch is attached to the clutch pedal frame under the dash,you may be able to disconnect it and jump the 2 wire together. But be careful, because now the car will start without the clutch being depressed, and if it's left in gear when you crank it it will move on you.