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Daewoo Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • multicarguymulticarguy Member Posts: 3
    I'm not too sure about your problem, but you say you have new coil and plug, do you actually have sparks, your crank sensor could be bad. By the way I do have a 99 Lanos 1.5 also, hard as hell to find parts around here in Canada. Where do you get your parts
    Guy
  • amanda613amanda613 Member Posts: 2
    my dad said the crank sensor is the only thing he hasn't replaced yet. yes, there are sparks....well im in the u.s, but i call chevy, an aveo has the same parts as my car. Thank you for your help.
  • multicarguymulticarguy Member Posts: 3
    I will check into that thank you:
    If you have sparks the crank sensor is probably good. I would check for fuel pressure at the rail, and also the air intake valve or (sensor) it could be stock open or close, good luck.
    Guy
  • estyestyestyesty Member Posts: 2
    Hi my son's 2001 Daewoo Nubira 80,000 miles ran perfect for 4 years. Had the ser pintine belt changed a year or year and 1/2 ago. It just messed up, serpintine belt but messed up engine. It's been in the shop and is now out and running, engine sounds ok, not a lot of power....crank shaft has been replaced and cam. replaced valves, heads, lots.....Anyway I just got it back today and it's just not right. We have lost our owners manual and there was a yellow orange square light on the dash on in the lower left hand corner. It was running a little warm not tooo though.
    Could someone tell me if that is the water light? Thanks Esty
  • estyestyestyesty Member Posts: 2
    Thank you SOOOO much for answering my question. This is my sons car that is running badly after the timing belt disaster...and we finally got it back and is running rough took it to AutoZone and their test told us to replace the cam sensor and tune it up. We had the valves redone and thank God they weren't messed up.
    Is this hard to replace as I have purchased it? Esty
  • mazerunnermazerunner Member Posts: 13
    I own a 2000 Daewoo Lanos S. It's a 5-speed manual 3-door hatchback with 77,000 miles. I love this car. It has never put me down once. I've done all the regularly scheduled maintenance and it seems that my Daewoo is rewarding me as a result. It's not a luxury car by any means, but the car is very reliable. Now I want to upgrade to a Hyundai Sonata, but it wouldn't be prudent to do so until my Daewoo finally dies. Car insurance and vehicle taxes are dirt cheap, so this car is saving me money.

    Anyway, I don't have any maintenance issues to speak of. I just wanted to chime in and offer the strongest possible recommendation for this car.
  • carnut32carnut32 Member Posts: 4
    I own a Daewoo Lanos. It had a similar problem. I replaced brake pads, and this did not solve the problem. I also resurfaced rotors and this did not help either. Finally the problem got worst to the point as was required to apply a lot of pressure on the pedal to stop the car. In the end I discovered it was the brake booster which was damaged.I n the beginning it started as a small leak, so I thought the brakes were soft, since the pedal was going down almost all the way without me being able to stop the car, then the brakes got stiffer, since leak was increasing, to the point I hear the air hissing out of the booster chamber.I finallywent to my local boneyard and got a good used booster for 70 dollars and I solved the problem.
  • basiasbasias Member Posts: 1
    I sure hope someone can help me. My 2002 Daewoo Laganza is falling apart! The passenger door lock has frozen. I was told this cann't be fixed but needs a new locking mechanism. Also, on the same door, the automatic window has become "unspooled" and I need a new one of these too! I want to replace the driver side auto window also, it makes a funny noise. Problem is I can't find replacement parts and dont know what to do or where to turn. The door is unusable, cant be open or closed, its frozen. Can anyone help me? Thanks, Basia
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    It is because of worn out control arm bushings. You have the option of replacing the bushings or replacing the control arm.
  • sorcerer101sorcerer101 Member Posts: 3
    I will be honest to tell u that the timing belt must change every 30,000miles which written on ur maintenance part of the owner manual
  • mehdi72mehdi72 Member Posts: 1
    Could someone tell me the location of the map sensor? My wife's Y Reg Lanos 1.6 has developed a fault. The error code suggests there is a problem with the map sensor. I've got a replacement but my friend took a look under the bonnet and we couldn't locate it.
  • mazerunnermazerunner Member Posts: 13
    Looks like my Daewoo's having some trouble. I have a 5-speed manual Daewoo Lanos S (model year 2000). When I accelerate and get ready to shift from 1st to 2nd gear, I notice the parking brake light flashing on the dashboard. Of course the parking brake is not activated, but it's very strange. As I keep accelerating after entering 2nd gear, the parking brake light turns off. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this or how I could fix it? I notice it seems to happen more often when I'm going up a hill.
  • ktsmith04ktsmith04 Member Posts: 1
    We just replaced the heater core in our Daewoo because of water settling on the floorboards, we thought this was the problem. It over heated alot and constantly had to put coolant/water in it. Well, it finally overheated on the highway and started to smoke badly from the exhaust. Coolant was also dripping from it. Finally found a heater core, put it in(not an easy job), filled it with water again....same thing happened. It started smoking and we noticed underneath it was leaking water. BUT, it never overheated! Does anyone have any idea what is going on? Oh, the defrost has never worked(we bought the car in April 08 for $800 as a first car for our son) and the car had a smell to it. We later determined it was coolant getting inside the car, probably from the heater core leaking. Even after replacing the heater core, the defrost still does not work.
    Thank you if anyone out there can shed light on this!
  • wsmoker123wsmoker123 Member Posts: 2
    i just got a 2001 deawoo lanos hack back and i wanted to change the shifter knob but i don't know how.... how could i do it.
  • wsmoker123wsmoker123 Member Posts: 2
    i need to change the shifter knob on my deawoo lanos 5 speed how do i do that.
  • sorcerer101sorcerer101 Member Posts: 3
    hay please see yr dash panel there should be a yellow lamp (service or check engine)when u put yr car key to ON position if it appear look to yr spark type &no. they should be type (NGK) number (BPR6ES) plug gap(0.8)and there order to plug in ur wiring plug from ur right hand is 1,3,2,4while in ur coil they should be from up to down 4,1,3,2 in addition to the crank sensor there must be a gap between it& it's cog serrate
    Reply if there is any other problems
  • jay130jay130 Member Posts: 2
    My lanos 2002 with 35,000 miles has been messing up. I used to have no problem with it but now it's being a total jerk. First, my starter broke, and it didn't start at all. So I took it to my friend who does a mechanic and he replaced with the new starter. But then the fuel pump broke so you could hear the starter working but the engine was never caught on. So, now I got a new fuel pump which was pretty costly and the first one didn't pump as it was supposed to, so we had to turn it back and get another one. And he replaced the fuel pump and then during the process of replacing the fuel pump, some dirt went into the fuel infectors..so I got new ones for them. And yesterday he finally replaced everything, and gave it back to me. The car..was okay...but it didn't drive as it used to. Like when you start it and step on the cluch, it doesn't accelerate as it is supposed to. It took like a few seconds to accelerate. But then when it was warmed up, it drove as it was supposed to. I was not really satisfied with what he had done with it but I needed a car, so I took it and said okay.

    At the night of the day I got the car back, I turned the key and the engine didn't catch on again. I was like "holy crap, not again...". I had to turn the key like 20 times to get the engine started...Since I heard the starter working...I am thinking the fuel pump failed again...I called my mechanic and he said he would take a look at it this Saturday, but it's probably the fuel pump...

    I've spent about 500 dollars already to fix these craps....do you guys have any ideas? If you need to know specific information, let me know. I'll post it on here.

    I do not have money to buy a new car...but I need to go to school...but my car is being a jerk....

    Please help me out...seriously!!! Thanks!!!!
  • sorcerer101sorcerer101 Member Posts: 3
    please don't be that worry first you say that car make35.000 miles did you changed the timing belt of it because it should be changed then check fuel relay and your injector is they deliver the fuel into your engine make sure of that yellow lamp on your dash panel which written on it check engine or service is it operational or not before you do any thing else ...

    please reply if there is any other matter
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  • bondobudie54bondobudie54 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 Daewoo Leganza SE 57,000 miles with a EVAP code of P0440

    I have two problems 1st check engine light comes on and code P0440 comes up
    EVAP Emission Control System Malfunction I was told that it could be the gas cap but i changed it with my Lanos 2000. gas caps are OK, I checks for leaks on hoses all the way to the rear of the car nothing. Could it be a bad can or sensor.
    Problem 2 Oil light flutters afters it has been driven for about 15 minutes can i rebuild the pump or just replace the spring in the pump while it's still on the car. Any help would be great. Thanks Everett
  • bondobudie54bondobudie54 Member Posts: 3
    You need a new cable for the defroster check out daewoo of North America on line type in daewoo parts you have to sign up first it's free the cost of the cable is about $10.00 plus shipping . I had to replace mine.
  • bandersbanders Member Posts: 1
    Good morning,
    I have a 2000 Daewoo Laganza and it just stoped running. I have spark and it seems to be getting gas. I can hear the elect fuel pump running when I turn the key on. I don't know where to start checking the other things that could be the cause. Any help or experience with this problem would be greatly appreaciated. Thank You
  • jay130jay130 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. I followed what you told me and it runs fine now. Thanks. Now I just have one prob...which is that my lanos only gets 17 miles per gallon...why...
  • 98Hugger98Hugger Member Posts: 1
    Mine is a similar question but for a 2001 Lanos, however I would also like to know what the tightening sequence is for the bolts on the valve cover? Also, if I am replacing the valve cover gasket do I also need to change the washers?
  • goldfalcongoldfalcon Member Posts: 2
    I bought an '01 Leganza in '03. Aside from minor interior trim issues, the vehicle has been trouble-free. That is, until at 85K I had the valve cover gasket replaced due to leakage at the front right corner of the engine as you face it from the front. At 95K, the vehicle is up for its 6th gasket (including original), all having leaked from the same spot. The four replacements have so far been done gratis by the repair shop.

    There was a thread of messages about this problem around 2 1/2 years ago and then it completely stopped. Did I miss an explanation of the cause for this and its solution?

    Given the history here, I feel it has been unfair to have the repair shop take the hit for a problem they did not cause. Can anyone suggest why the first gasket made it 85K miles and I can't get another one to go more than 3K?

    Has anyone had any luck fixing this? If so, how?
  • bondobudie54bondobudie54 Member Posts: 3
    I have heard that a Daewoo motor can be replaced by a Mitsubishi motor is this true or just a fairytale.
  • cpeppitocpeppito Member Posts: 2
    Engine died after starting it up one random afternoon. The engine would crank, but it wouldn't turn over. Took it to midas, they misdiagnosed for a camshaft sensor replacement at first. They said the engine just couldn't keep its compression up, and all but one cylinder had low pressure. $15,000+...

    So here lies the actual question. Me and my brother are going to replace the valves ourselves. But repair manual say we need an engine overhaul lift to just get to the valves. Anyone done this job on their own? I was disappointed to read i needed an engine overhaul lift. :sick:
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Member Posts: 210
    This means the repair shop did not install it properly. It is not enough to replace the gasket, you have to use apply Silicone gasket seal in addition to the rubber gasket especially in the section at the right of the engine and in the area around each spark plug where you have to be more generous with the sealer. If they just replace the rubber gasket it will leak from many spots including into the spark cavity.
    All manufacturers use an additional sealer for sealing valve covers, timing chains etc...
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    :sick: First, I appologize to everyone for this posting being so long, but hopefully it will save some other people the same headaches and a lot of unnecessary extra work.
    I owned a brand new 2001 SE, which was hit and damaged badly. I could not find all the needed sheet metal, so I found a 99 EX, with a blown engine. I bought that for $700 as opposed to 5 grand+ in parts for the body, IF they could all be gotten, which they couldn't. Long story short, I put my 2001 engine into the 99.

    For a complete tear down and removal and swap, you do need a hoist. BUT, for a head job, I was able to do the entire job with the engine IN the vehicle on 2 of the 3 mounts. It is fairly easy if you take the hood off the car, and you will have to support and slightly raise the engine with a floor jack to remove the main engine mount on the fender in front of the timing cover. I actually had a harder time removing some of the bolts from the newer engine than the old one.

    I can tell you your problem is one of two possibilities more than likely. The 99 I had wouldn't hold compression either, but would crank and not start. After I took it out, I did a tear down on it and found that the rings were almost all shot, and several of the valves had slight leaks when I pressure tested them. This is possibility #1.

    That engine had 111,000 miles on it, and appeared fine on the outside, and on the top of the head itself. It had the crankshaft sensor replaced at some point, which was part of a recall that either gave a no start/run condition, or it could cause an engine fire. This is possibility #2.

    When I removed the timing cover, I saw that it also at some point had the timing belt, tensioner pulley and idler pullys all replaced, which Daewoo specs out to be done at every 40,000 miles.

    Since my 2001 engine had 39,000 on it at the time I was putting it in the 99, I decided to do the 40,000 mile belt replacement proceedure since it is much easier to replace the parts and time it on an engine stand out of the car than it is inside it.

    I am not by any means telling you, that doing the head job is going to be a fast and simple unbolt and rebolt, at you will need some wobble extentions and even easier are some wratcting box end wrenches like gear wrench to make the job the easiest, because there are a lot of manifold bolts on the intake manifold under the throttle body that must be removed and replaced.

    You also have to remove the fuel rail etc. I was able to remover the intake manifold and throttle body in one piece with no problems. Also, if you have no problem with them being almost rust welded, you can just remove the 3 bolts from the cat converter/exhaust system right where it bolts to the exhaust header. You will have to drop the A/C compressor, and the power steering unit and I believe the r adiator overflow box and the air intake assembly as well.

    What I reccomend you do before you start the job, is get a complete headset gasket kit FIRST. While you have the head off, I highly suggest you find a local machine shop, and have them steam clean the head, resurface it, regrind the valve seats and valves them because even if they look ok to your eye, they get very fine pitting and it causes them to leak, and oldfashioned Valve Lapping with lapping compound will NOT seat them tight enough. Regrinding the valves and seats should be all you need to do to the head if your timing belt didn't snap, because the valves should not be bent and need replacing. Also have them change the valve stem seals for you, because the valve stems and springs and keepers are the recessed kind and you will need a special adapter end and tool to do it yourself.

    Trust me when I tell you it is worth the money to save yourself a lot of time and aggravation trying to do the job yourself !!!

    I also give you this last very important piece of advice: Purchase a NEW timing belt, belt tensioner and idler pullys and change them at the samew time you do the head job. BUT BE VERY CAREFULL!

    I had no problem finding the belt kit complete, and I installed it when I did the engine swap as I already told you. BUT after about 200 miles, the engine died when I decelerated for a curve, and gave me the crank but NO Start condition as you described. When I removed the timing cover I saw the belt was ripped and partially shredded. I looked and looked to figure out why a brand new belt would do that, and here is what I discovered. The Brand New replacement tentioner pully, was almost a full 3/16 of an inch narrower in thickness from the face to the back towrds the block then the original one was. This caused the belt to get a gash in it on the edge of the tensioner when the car decelerated!!!

    So comapare the old one with the new one for thickness, or you will end up like I did. I had a 39,200 mile engine with a brand new timing belt that snapped, and it bent 8 of the 16 valves in the head !!! And that my friend, is how I came to find out that you can do the valve/head job without removing the engine from the car!

    That lousey sub quality out of spec brand new belt tensioner destryed the valves on the 39,00 mile head, so I took the one from the 99 engine and overhauled it exactly as I have described to you.

    Other than that, I actually love the car, but I have now found I am having to replace my starter AGAIN. They seem to eat them. It seems that either the solenoid goes bad, so the bendix drive will not engage the starter gear wioth the flywheel. You get a single click and nothing else. The one from my 01 went first, so I out the one from the 99 engine in it and that one just went too. :confuse:

    I hope this helps you out, and if I can help anymore, let me know.
  • cpeppitocpeppito Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Joe! this was an awesome reply. I will definitely take your advice and take the Head to a local shop. Me and my brother are definitely using this car as a learning experience, and definitely don't have all the extensive tools needed for all the jobs.

    Interesting about your decelerating into a curve killed your car.. That actually happened to me a month prior to the initial 'car not being able to start', but after it happened i was able to start the car right back up.. i figured it was electrical related, since i've had problems with the battery connectors before. Hmm I wonder if i'll find a similar gash in the timing belt like yours. Well thanks again Joe.. I'll post what is found and what happens.
  • goldfalcongoldfalcon Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response. In the several attempts to get this right, they did indeed use extra sealant. This last time, in fact, excess sealant oozed out when the valve cover was tightened in place. In a recent conversation at another repair shop, they claim that after-market gaskets simply do not work. They buy them from a local Chevy Dealer (GM owns Daewoo) AND that dealer will not sell the part without the VIN number, as there are apparently two gasket configurations. I'm about to go back to the first shop and ask about the details of their gasket purchases.

    Aside from the logic you offer, if this shop, in business for decades, had the same problem on other vehicles, one could infer they are incompetent. The other qualifier is the thread on this site about others having the identical problem. Both strongly suggest a problem unique to this vehicle. I'll post further developments, if any.

    Thanks again.
  • DonM_1948DonM_1948 Member Posts: 1
    Just mounted a set of driving lamps on my '01 Lanos. I want to connect them to the high-beam switch, but not sure how to do this without overloading the circuit.

    Any ideas appreciated.
  • ComicTeenComicTeen Member Posts: 1
    Ok my passenger side window on both switches will roll down but not up. On the Master Control Switch on the drivers door sometimes when you try to roll the passenger side window down the drivers side will come down. I was going to splice the wires and connect the passenger side switch wires to the drivers window switch but I dont know what color wires go to what window. And I pulled out the master control switch but cannot get inside it. Please can anyone help me.
  • mervamerva Member Posts: 2
    I have just replaced my sons 1.6 litre 1997 Daewoo Nubiras head. In the manual it says to align the cam gear marks with those on the valve cover. Unfortunately there are no markings on the valve cover. Can someone help with how to do this?

    Regards
  • 1marcus11marcus1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 leganza and I need to install a condenser,receiver drier,evaporator core,and expansion valve. What steps do I take for removing and installing the new condenser.
  • GreerKatGreerKat Member Posts: 1
    Can someone with a 2000 Lanos or the 2000 Lanos owner's manual please advise me where the ECM computer is located on this vehicle? My friend owns this model and this part needs to be replaced. We are waiting for delivery of the part and my son is going to be installing it. We are just trying to determine if this one is located underneath the motor (not too difficult) or in the dash (yuck!!). The car's owner doesn't have a manual. We will be able to locate the part once we're with the car but it's quite a distance away and I'm just hoping someone on here will have the info so we can have a general idea of how long/difficult this process will be. Thanks!!
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    Most likely spot will be behind the front passenger kick panel in front of the door under the dash board. Another common place is under the center console that covers the shifter and the "transmission hump"
  • mdipasqualemdipasquale Member Posts: 4
    my 2001 daewoo lanos automatic when warm is shifting fine..Except when engine gets really warmed up after about 15 minutes of highway driving,it pops out of the overdrive gear and won't go back into overdrive until I turn engine off and cool down..Replaced the thermostat and still doing the same??..Could it possibly be the transmission fluid??..I have over 100,000 miles on the transmission and have never changed the fluid...
  • mdipasqualemdipasquale Member Posts: 4
    Hi joepeterson56..I have a 2001 daewoo lanos that is doing the exact same thing as your Leganza with the overdrive shifting problem..Did you ever get it solved..Someone told me to try and replace the thermostat which i did but it did not make any difference..Did you get a solution for your problem please..Your reply will be greatly appreciated..Thanks.. my email is: mdipasquale@spoonerhealthsystem.com
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Let's not use private e-mails. If you find a solution to a problem, post it here so that everyone can benefit now and in the future when they read it. Thanks!
  • asdaigleasdaigle Member Posts: 1
    My Nubira was doing the same thing. The catalytic converter(s) were stopped up. If you can get underneath, it's 3 nuts to loosen right under the exhaust manifold and a triangular shaped flange afterwards you can drop the exhaust pipe down and see if the engine will start. If it does the converters are stopped up. I took off my converters and just knocked everything out with a pipe and put them back on. Engine codes come on, but I bought a cheap scanner reset thing on ebay to reset the computer. Hope this helps.
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    Hi,

    If your problem is the same as mine, most likely the cause is the wire running from the power button on the shift lever to the tranny controler. You will have to undo the set screw on the shifter knob, and slide it off, then find all the screws that hold the console down to the floor and lift the console off. The wire runs down inside the shifter lever from the button to an electrical connector that goes to the controler unit underneath the console. The way the car is built, there is some slack in that wire to allow movement when the lever is moved from each gear, but they apparently do not strap the wire down cleat of the levers moving parts, so eventually, the wire can get cut by the moving parts at the bottom of the lever where all the moving parts are. You should be able to splice the wire back together and wrap it really good w electrical tape, and move it out of the way and put everything back together.
    Let me know if this works for you please.
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    I can only guess that the nubria engine is similar to that of the Leganza 2.2 as far as the timing marks go, if you can't seem to locate them. If it is, the problem is that they are not actually "timing Marks" as we are used to them in the older cars. I am guessing that they are the same on yours. If so, what you are actually looking for is 2 very slight notches molded into the top edge of the metal or plastic backing cover bolted on the engine block behind the camshaft gears. If I could draw them here for you I would. Once you see them, you will be surprised that you didn't notice them before. They line up almost perfectly with the grooves and marks on the camshfaft gears. Also, if the engines are the same basic set up, your biggest problem is going to be getting the tensioner to line up right. You will probably need a helper, because if the engine is still in the car it takes like 4 or five hands to get everything to line up and hold it in place while you tighten the tensioner. Please let me know how you make out with it.
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    Don't be so quick to blame the shop as incompeten. In my opinion,it is really the fault of the design engineers and the choice of materials that are used for the covers and the way they are molded. Every single engine I have ever worked on, with the recessed sparkplugs down inside the cover has has a leak in the same places. The #1 and # 4 cylinders seem to leak much worse then the # 2 and 3. I believe it is because the covers are made from plastic, and cannot take the extreme heat conditions which causes them to leak from warpage under heat. I have done many cover gasket repairs, and both the ones I have done, as well as the ones done by many diofferent shops all have this problem, wheter you use extra sealant or not. I think that if the covers were molded with a metal reinforcing frame work inside the plastic, they would warp much less or not at all. I have never had this kind of problem with metal covers that have bolts all around the perimeter. Even the valve covers that are metal or cast aluminum, that don't have the spark plugs under or thru the center seem to have a big tendency to leak, and I think it is mainly because they only have 2 hold down bolts near each end as opposed to bolts all around the edges. Any other thoughts on this??
  • mdipasqualemdipasquale Member Posts: 4
    hi joe,
    even though I am experiencing the same problem as you are with my PWR lite..The engine shifts OK into overdrive until the engine gets really warmed up..Then it slips out of the overdrive gear into 3rd..All other gears are OK..I changed the thermostat and had the tranny fluid/filter replaced and still not working..Again, it shifts fine until engine gets really warmed up (usually after about 15 minutes on the highway),just all at once downshifts to 3rd gear (from overdrive) and will not shift back into overdrive (all other gears are OK) until engine cools off..Thanks for youe help!
  • dper299dper299 Member Posts: 19
    I have a 2001 Leganza, I am getting a roar/singing type sound that is coming from the drivers side front end as best as I can tell @ 40 mph and above. When I move swerve the car back and fourth @ this speed the noise goes away,But is there only when you keep the wheels straight. I have rotated the tires and it's not tire noise. My feeling is that it's a hub bearing.. Any other opinions or ideas would help..Thanks
  • rolonhiwayrolonhiway Member Posts: 12
    Does anyone know where I can get the lower A Frames. 2001 Daewoo Nubira had them replaced with new ones 4 years ago. Then a year ago from they had to be replaced again and we took them off a junk car.
    I need new ones again. Any ideas of where to start to look for them. I need both sides.
  • manichovmanichov Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I have a Daewoo Nubira 2000 and I need code for my radio. Your codes doesn't work. My radio label number is: 00317403 22

    Please try to Help me

    Maurice
  • sherry123sherry123 Member Posts: 15
    Check with your local Daewoo dealer. When I bought mine, there was a code that attached to the key ring. Of course I lost it!
    If there is no local dealer, my dealer still has Daewoo information
    304 727 2921. Ask for Daewoo Parts Department. Good luck.
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    YEP< that's your problem! I have it to on the right front, squealing and the right rear, roaring, like really bad road noise. Just found all 4 on napaonline.com for $297.00 plus tax.
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