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Daewoo Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • oldaxeoldaxe Member Posts: 7
    Most auto parts stores have free code reader service to tell you whats wrong.
    In most cases running with the light on uses a lot more fuel.
    As to tightening the coolant filler cap, How tight would it have to be if there were a hole in it? If there is any doubt have it pressure tested.
  • glaspie29glaspie29 Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    how do you take off and replace a 99 daewoo leganza starter and what tools are needed? does anyone have a manual or picture they can email me? :sick: thanks..
  • lanostrinidadlanostrinidad Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    recently changed the water pump the car was down for two weeks. after getting it running i had to change spark plugs for it to run smoothly. however when the car reaches to it normal running temperature it just cuts off after a while and refuses to start until it cools for a bit. it never happened before. i have cleaned the throttle body but it hasn't worked.someone please help me i really need my car. i would really really appreciate any advice.
  • ceceascecececeascece Member Posts: 1
    hi, my name is cece. i have a 2000 daewoo lanos that i got a couple of weeks ago. i haven't even put 100 miles on it,(i got it with 81,000 miles on it) and i am already starting to have problems. first problem was what seemed to be minor at the time, i had parked to go into a store and after shopping for about an hour or so, came out to leave and the first time i tried to start it, it just turned over and over. the second time, it started right up, so i figured that it was just a fluke thing. then, when i started it the other day the oil pressure indicator was on, so i turned it off immediately and checked my oil, which was fine. i had to leave to drive my son to school which is less than 5 miles away so i figured i could drop him off and check it again, but on my way there it went off when i went over railroad tracks (which were on a small hill), so i wasn't sure if it had anything to do with the incline or not. this morning i started it to take him somewhere and the oil light came on again, so i figured that it would go off again, but it didn't, even after going over a much larger hill, but he HAD to get there so i figured that as long as the temp gage didn't start to go up, we should probably be ok. i dropped him off, stopped at one store for about an hour and stopped at another store for about 10 minutes, came out and it wouldn't start, just turned over and over. after trying a few things, i pulled the fuel filter and a rust colored liquid came out of it, so i went over to the parts house across the street and bought a new one and put it on. same effect. so i sprayed some of the starting fluid into it and it would start for a second (of course) and shut right back off, so at this point i called for help to check the fuel pump. if i didn't let off it would turn over and over and finally start, so i limped it home doing this, but when i had to go up and over a couple of inclines, it shut off every time, and sometime through all of this the oil pressure light went back off. then this evening i went out (4 or 5 hours later) and it started right up. i don't want to buy a fuel pump if not necessary, but i wanted to know if anyone has any ideas, i want to start trying out the different possibilities tomorrow. thanks
    cece
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    Cece, I am not a "pro", but I am almost positive your oil light problem is either a failing oil sending switch, or a bad wire running from the switch to the dash light.

    As far as your starting/running problem, it could be several issues: 1- Clogged injector(s) based on the condition of the rusty looking fuel you described, 2- Failing fuel pump ( they do not always fail completely all at once, they sometimes work intermittently) or 3- Intermittent spark.

    What I would do is get a very strong injector cleaner & get that going through the system, get a fuel pressure testing kit and get it on the fuel rail & check the pressure to see if the pump is weak or working intermittently, get a spark plug tester & a helper and check at each plug for strong spark.

    Hope this points you in the right direction!
  • dnthaveacluednthaveaclue Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 daewoo nubira with 184000 miles. Recently it has been running fine then shut off, almost like the key was just turned off, no chug, no warning just dead. We have replaced the fuel pump, filter, coil module and cam sensor recently. The throtle body is also new with all new sensors. We are getting spark, and fuel pressure regulates aroung 40 psi. When it quits, it has to cool off sometimes for hours to restart. It will run well for several days and never die, other times I can go one mile and it will die. Any suggestions?
  • andywebbandywebb Member Posts: 3
    I have a Daewoo Nubira which has been parked up for the last 2 years outdoors and never moved. Put new battery in and started first time. I am concerned about the brake discs, they have a coating of rust on them.
    1. Can I refurbish them?
    2. Do I have to replace them?

    Car brakes OK but could be better. Just need to know before I go to any expense as the car needs other minor work. Model year is 2000.

    THanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It depends on whether the rust is merely surface, or if it has created pits and little craters in the disc or not. You might take some steel wool and buy a can of "Brake-Kleen" at the local auto parts store and see how the discs look once they are all cleaned up. I think they'll be fine unless they were really eaten up by road salt. I'd be more concerned about sticking calipers, but if the brakes aren't dragging or overheating, maybe you're okay with some buffing.

    One thing I would DEFINITELY do is flush out the brake fluid and add clean fluid.
  • andywebbandywebb Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for that information
  • waitewaite Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I am from PEI and also own a Daewoo Lanos 2002, 1.5. I am wondering if you could tell me where I could buy parts for this type of car? I am in need of a timing belt and cant seem to find one anywhere. You mentioned that Mitsubishi were great for customer service, were they able to provide you with any parts?

    Thank you
  • sherry123sherry123 Member Posts: 15
    Try going online. I have had good luck with autoparts warehouse.
    Good luck!
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    I have found a great Daewoo parts source on ebay.
  • oldaxeoldaxe Member Posts: 7
    Drive the car and apply the brakes a few times and the rust will go away.
    OldAxe, Mechanic 80 and Retired
  • l82vettel82vette Member Posts: 1
    it's a simple fix. No need for a fuel pump. Take out the spark plugs to see if it's covered in oil. Just replace the valve cover gasket. Oil is leaking into the spark plugs. Oil is covering the electrode and ground of the spark plugs causing it no to spark. I am currently working on a car like this at school. We changed the valve cover and cleaned the oil off the spark plugs.
  • solorainesoloraine Member Posts: 1
    Hi there,
    I know its been some time but were you able to fix the speedo?
    I have the same problem now.
    Cheers
  • andywebbandywebb Member Posts: 3
    Please can someone help, I want to remove the electrical connector on the fuel tank. I am having difficulty removing it ie, don't want to break it. Their is a small red tag on top which I move over I suppose to unlock, but hten what? Just pull! I cannot seem to work out where I am going wrong or its just stubborn to remove.

    Need to get access to fuel pump.
  • markfitzmarkfitz Member Posts: 5
    When I fill my car with gas, it seems to fill the fuel pipe, then shut off at the gas pump, and then takes forever to fill the car with gas. Thinking there's a blockage in either the fuel pipe or air (vapor?) pipe, I'm trying to remove them, and having difficulty. Does anyone know how to remove these pipes at the fuel tank? Is there a special mechanism or clip to overcome?

    Many thanks,

    Mark
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Have you tried a different gas station/pump, as well as moving the nozzle in a different direction when it's in the filler tube.
  • markfitzmarkfitz Member Posts: 5
    Yes, several local gas stations, and angles of nozzle. My car was sitting for about 1.5 years, with a full tank, so...
    A mechanic friend says it's most likely not the fuel, but the air line that's not venting properly. The closest I can find in the manual is the canister vapor line, is this right?

    Another friend said that similar to the flap at the top of the fuel pipe, by the gas cap, there may be one at the tank end to prevent people siphoning your gas, and this may have rusted shut or become stiff in some way.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited November 2010
    This is not making much sense. When you are pumping gas, does the filler neck fill up with gas, shut off the gas station pump nozzle, and then the gas slowly drains down into the tank? If so, then you have an obstruction of some sort in the filler neck.

    If it is just air in the filler neck and the pump nozzle shuts off, then the problem is the pump nozzle.

    If you have the first, an obstruction in the filler neck, then you need to remove the obstruction. You could try putting a plastic siphon tube down the filler neck, and see if it makes it down into the tank. If your vehicle was sitting somewhere for a year and a half unattended and unsecure, then someone could have stuffed a sock or something down the tube.
  • markfitzmarkfitz Member Posts: 5
    It is the former. Which when I mentioned this to my mechanic friend, he thinks it's not that fuel is not getting in, but that air is not getting out, allowing the fuel to flow freely - kind of like trying to pour too much liquid out of a bottle. As far as I would imagine, nothing was purposely placed into the tube, as the car sat in my garage for the 1.5 years.

    But my problem still stands, I can't get the flex connector pipe OFF from the fuel tank, and was asking if anyone knows any tricks as how to get the 2 apart.

    Thanks, we seem to at least be thinking along the same lines.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Insert a plastic siphon line (1/4 or 3/8" dia)down the filler tube. See how far down it goes. If you exhale into the tube as it's going down (don't inhale), you can tell when the tube makes it down into the tank as it will start to bubble and you'll have slightly higher pressure to blow.

    Fill gas flow will be much greater than a 1/4-3/8" tube, so if you can't get that siphon tube down, that's your problem.....you've got a blockage.
  • jimjimmyjimjimjimjimmyjimjim Member Posts: 2
    Hello there, I recently inherited my brothers 2000 leganza with a slight issue. Occasionally it just wont start. I turn the key and hear a click and either I have to wait from half an hour to an hour and it will start or If I get it jumped it will start. I think it may have something to do with temperature because if its sitting out for awhile it most likely starts but that isn't always the case. It seems completely random.

    Starts sometimes doesn't other times.
    Will start with a jump
    Will start after sitting for awhile
    Fairly new starter been replaced before (it happened before and after the new starter)
    Fairly new battery (problem occurred before and after new battery)

    Any thoughts or ideas? Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd say corroded/loose battery terminals or a bad battery. Second guess is a bad starter solenoid (relay). Yes, parts can be bad right out of the box.

    Check all your connections, and also the battery ground strap to frame.
  • markfitzmarkfitz Member Posts: 5
    I agree with the comment below yours, I had the same problem on my wife's 2004 chevy cavalier, it was a bad battery - had my mechanic friend take a look.
  • colleenk7colleenk7 Member Posts: 3
    the problem was to replace the crankshaft sensor. we did that and never a problem since.
  • jimjimmyjimjimjimjimmyjimjim Member Posts: 2
    I just replaced the battery yesterday, did not fix the problem. Installing a new starter wednesday.
  • el_ratonel_raton Member Posts: 1
    hey man, raton here. i have the exact same problem with my 99 lanos, i replace the plugs, wires, coil, crank and camshaft sensor, knock sensor, o2 sensors, timing belt and the water pump, and the head gasket about 1k miles. i have no idea what it could be. im begin to think that it maybe the timing related so im goin to go home and check the timing marks, also replace the intake gasket in case is cause by vaccume. so please please let me know if you have fix it, or have any leads on what is cousing it. its driving my crasy! i also replace the timing idler and tensioner and that got me to 3300 rpm, but it went down to 3000 when i put in the new knock sensor. please help me out man!
  • stonegrinderstonegrinder Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2000 daewoo nubira wagon. I have replaced the unit in the door and checked the ecm fuse, but I still have the problem. Please somebody help.
  • sniewinsniewin Member Posts: 3
    im looking at a very similar thing with my 2000 daweoo nubira se... i was just driving home from work when mine broke, and my mechanic told me a very similar story.

    i would like to know if after the car is put back in time and completely reassembled if it the rods are truely bent
  • 02redrocket02redrocket Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I own the same car as you. A 2002 Daewoo Lanos 1.5L manual. Recently I put a new engine in it because I like my car. I now have a new problem and was hoping you could help. I have a hole in the weaved basket looking part ( flex hose) under front of engine...part of the exhaust. Do you know what this part is called? Hard to find a part when you don't know what you are looking for. LOL.
    My car is very loud right now and would really like to get it fixed ASAP.
    Thanks for your help.
  • 02redrocket02redrocket Member Posts: 2
    Hi everyone. I have a 2002 daewoo lanos hatchback 1.5L manual. I recently just got a new engine put in it because my head gasket went. I now have a hole in the front end exhaust piece that looks like a weaved basket. I don't know much about cars..LOL. can anyone tell me what this part is called so I can get it replaced? I was told it's a flex hose but I can't find anything on the net that looks like it.
    Thanks
    Canada
  • oldaxeoldaxe Member Posts: 7
    Get a muffler repair kit from an auto parts store. That will stop the noise for a few years or untill find the part.
  • sniewinsniewin Member Posts: 3
    I was Driving Home from work and Lost All Power to my 2000 Daewoo Nubira Se. I Quickly Pulled over to the Side of the Road, I tried Restarting my Car and Nothing, But i Noticed that it didnt sound Quite Right. After a Quick Internet Search from my Phone i Found out that the Timing Belt was Broken and looked under the hood to find that this infact had happend, So i had the Car towed home on a Trailer Because i was told that if the front tires are allowed to spin it could do some damage to the motor.
    when the incident happened there was no sound and the battery and oil lights came on, that was it.

    after having a mechanic place the new timing belt on and then trying to start the car w/o the airhose / filter system on i was told that there was damage to the valves or rods. my estimated repair bill would be about 2000.000

    i have a hard time believing what i am being told since it took my mechanic 2 weeks to just put the timing belt on. . .

    is there any hope for my car ????
  • sniewinsniewin Member Posts: 3
    i had the same [problem with mine when i first acquired it... after i changed the temperature coolant control sensor the car stared just fine with no problems, and hasnt had one since
  • pan84pan84 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all codes not work for me
    I have 200- daewoo nubira, just replace the battery and cant find code now
    Can you help me with it?
    serial nubres: 0022943222
    Thanks
  • hpsnvhpsnv Member Posts: 5
    Try 5241 it worked for me
  • oldaxeoldaxe Member Posts: 7
    edited May 2011
    If all else fails, TRY THE CODES BELOW, which were the most common codes used in models during the 1998-2001 model years.
    1. 2152 5624 3346 1165 4362 5813 4513 5241 4316 1651 5346 1341 3241 1652 4524 6361 2145 5436 1857 4353 5632 3451 1638 1156 1636 5324
    Takes a few minutes but almost always works

    Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_code_to_unlock_the_radio_in_your_Daewoo_La- nos#ixzz1M8m77P00
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Does the radio actually allow you that many tries without locking you out?
  • oldaxeoldaxe Member Posts: 7
    Not knowing what codes were used there are 9999 possibilities. The radio was not setup for lockout and reactivation.
    You will not get locked out for trying.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ah, okay. I remember on older German cars they didn't allow you more than a couple of tries. Once you got locked out, you were *really* locked out.
  • ae6bzae6bz Member Posts: 2
    Unfortunately your engine is shot. A lot of owners learn about the timing belt the hard way. It should be replaced every 40,000 miles. you can pick up a used engine for about $900 from salvage yard. The timing belt can be checked in the following manner; remove head cover, remove spark plugs. This allows you to see a portion of the belt between the two cam's. Have someone rotate the engine with the starter while observing the belt pass over the cams
  • ae6bzae6bz Member Posts: 2
    Manual Clutch safety switch malfunctioned at 120,000 miles, engine would not start. Switch is white, and located under the clutch pedal arm. A new OEM switch is about $10.00 plus shipping. The switch rotates 90 degrees to remove. I was able to disassemble the switch, and re-solder it, now works fine.
  • donicedonice Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone help this car part novice?

    I need a replacement part for my 2000 Daewoo Lanos but can't seem to find out what the correct part name is. I got a couple of names (from mechanics no less) i.e charcoal vapor canister, EVAC Canister, and EVAP Canister, but when I searched parts dealers with these names I either got no results or got parts with pictures that look nothing like what's on my car. I did (quite by accident) find a part called a vapor canister solenoid, and the picture does look a lot like the part on my car. To be sure though I hope someone can help me so I don't order the wrong part.

    The best description I can give of the part is that it's a "rectangular canister mounted on the right rear chassis next to my gas tank". The metal strap that held it in place broke and the canister was destroyed when it got dragged over the road surface. Since this is giving me an emissions code my vehicle won't pass NYS Inspection due 07/30/11 so it's imperative that I find and replace the part.

    Hoping for an answer, Donice
  • daewoocrazydaewoocrazy Member Posts: 7
    Donice:

    This part is an EVAPORATION CANISTER. In my Leganza factory manual, it is called "EVAP canister". This part may be really hard to find, new.

    I suggest you get one from a salvage yard and put in on yourself or have a mechanic do it. You may have to search nationwide for a salvage yard that still has your particular car in their inventory.

    Solenoids for this canister are found on the internet.

    An evaporation canister has charcoal particles in it that absorb fumes from the gasoline to keep them from going into the atmosphere. These fumes are held in the cannister until the computer commands the solenoid to let them into the engine.

    After you install the replacement canister, you should check the hoses to make sure they were not damaged during the dragging on the road surface.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Evaporative Emission Control Canister / part # 17098140 / dealer list price $166.

    It's a box that installs on a slide and has hoses attached to it.
  • mrhappy727mrhappy727 Member Posts: 2
    I have 2 woos. #1 is d.o.a at the dealership. timing belt issue. loud knock and wont start. Its a 01 leganza LOADED! everything worked. #2 Is a new purchase 01 nubira with 54,ooo mi. (got it for $2,800). From what i understand the engine block on the 2.2 is 1/2 inch taller in the deceased leganza. My question is; are the starter,alt., tranny, and other parts interchangable? and where may i find a suitable mechanics manual or guide to do my repairs? I will be doing the timing belt in the nubira soooooon.
  • sherrmorrsherrmorr Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Nubira has 72K miles on it. I had the timing belt, water pump kit replaced 4 years ago. Two days ago, I started the engine and it sounded like a dryer with a few loose tennis shoes. I drove very slowly 1/4 mile to Advance Auto Parts. The fellow there gave it a listen and said it sounded like the timing belt! grrrr.
    Turns out my water pump was falling apart. He said the fact that the motor was running was an indication the belt had not yet broken. Because the pump sits on top of the belt, it was putting pressure on the belt. Since I was already in there, and planned on replacing the belt next year anyway, I sprung for the whole thing. I recommend getting those things changed out at 35k if you don't drive a lot. Thankfully I had no engine damage (so far. it's in the shop as I write this). Engines for Nubiras are $1100 for those under 50K miles.
  • germinatorgerminator Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know what modifications i can do to my '97 nubira engine to make it go faster, or does anyone know if it is possible to convert it to rear wheel drive? Car details: 1997 Daewoo Nubira Eurowagon 1.6 liter :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not much you can do except turbocharge it. A RWD conversion would be hideously expensive and very tricky technically. I wouldn't recommend even thinking about it.

    Basically, if you have a car that's not high in resale value, and you want a car that goes faster, the best thing to do is go out and buy yourself a faster car. You're much better off in the long run, because a) once you start modifying a car you can run up more expense that you planned and b) the modified car is often worth less than the stock one.
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