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Comments
Any ideas how to correct this?
Thanks,
Mark
Having changed many timing belts, although my car is a Leganza, I would suggest this:
When changing any timing belt, replace all pulleys, tensioner and water pump.
Make sure new pulleys are not narrower than the belt. (I have purchased kits which had a narrow pulley that would ruin a new belt, fast).
I'm thinking that at least one of these items has worn bearings which cause it to run out of line.
These parts can be expensive, but so are new valves, when the belt goes.
Sometimes, I find a reasonable price on the internet and then take a printout to auto parts stores until I find one that will match the price.
Hope this helps you. Jim.
The problem should have been diagnosed and fixed before driving with a new converter.
A misfiring engine will ruin your new catalytic converter.
A fuel pressure test should have been made before changing the fuel pump. It is a simple test and all mechanics should be able to do it.
There may be more than one code (problem) registered in the computer. Have it scanned for clues to the problem before making any more expensive repairs.
A misfiring engine will ruin your new catalytic converter.
Daewoocrazys right on both. When a cylinder misfires, the unburnt fuel is dumped into the exhaust, then on to the catalytic converter. Once there, it burns, raising the temperature of the cat and ruining it. And it doesn't take long for that to happen.
I'm really surprised his CEL (check engine light) wasn't on.
....that all daewoo models are not compatible at all with ethanol based fuel. Is that so? What are my fuel options for a 1995 Daewoo ceilo? Will the ethanol e.g. E10 harm the engine?
See here:
http://www.onlinemechanical.net/ethanol-E10.html
If someone in your area has the scan-100 Daewoo tool, I would have it diagnosed. This tool can also reset your idle air control valve. (Shutting down when going into reverse sounds like a problem with this control valve and it could also need cleaning, along with the throttle body). This is what I use on my Leganza and it makes a lot of difference.
Your Leganza has an idle learn procedure, which I think might have been given before in this forum. I is very important anytime power is disconnected.
These problems are not happening just because it is a Daewoo. Modern engine controls are just quite complicated and require a competent mechanic.
I will follow this site for a while in case you post again.
I have added R134A freon and brought the pressure reading into the 'Blue' good range.
I press the 'A/C' button on the dashboard and the green light comes on, but the A/C compressor clutch does not engage.
I have metered the plug to the clutch and it does not have 12volts present when the A/C switch is on.
I also thought one or both of the engine fans comes on when you turn on the A/C switch, but I may be wrong about that.
I am thinking maybe its a pressure switch, but I did add the freon and it shows is has the right pressure. How can I test the pressure switches?
Any help appreciated.
Thanks. :confuse:
I think the 2000 computer may not be compatible with a 2002 engine, but I see no reason not to try (except it can be a booger getting it in and out). The computer you change to would need to know the VIN number and you may not have the necessary equipment for this, but it could function without it.
At this point, I would not suspect the computer. The computer would be the last thing I would suspect.
I don't understand your statement "codes that come in and clear". Do you mean that after a few starts the code clears itself?
More than one thing has to exist before this code will set. The computer is relying on readings from the MAP, speed, Decel Fuel Cutofff and IAC sensors, etc. Therefore, it would be good to know if this code had been set on the car the EGR came from.
If it sets the code on the current car, it should also have set a freeze frame, which can be read from a good scan tool (does not have to be the Daewoo tool, but probably better than what you find at auto parts stores).
Your replacement engine may have a defective MAP or other sensors that are affecting the EGR operation. I am thinking the MAP, IAC and TPS sensors were not changed with the engine and are all therefore suspect.
NOW, THIS IS IMPORTANT: The code clearing allows the new EGR to relearn a new pintle position. The DTC (code) must be cleared with the ignition on and with the engine off or idling to learn the new pintle position.
The proper scan tool will read the desired EGR setting and the actual setting, which could indicate a problem with the EGR, itself (will show on the freeze frame) and indicate trying still another used EGR valve.
Hope this helps. Sorry I am so late.
Anyway, brake lights still do not work, any ideas?
I would use a volt-ohm meter to check for continuity in both the old and the new switch. Inexpensive volt-ohm meters cost so little that everyone should have one and learn how to use it.
I see no adjustment in the switch; it is a simple switch that should close contacts when it is out.
Do the back-up lights work? If they do, then the ground is probably good, but I would check for a solid ground (Black wire), anyway. The rear window stop lamp has its own ground. Does it work? If it does, that would lead to suspecting the brake light ground.
The ground for the brake lamps is below the tail lamp on the driver's side, in the trunk.
The ground for the window center stop lamp is under the front driver's seat.
I hope this helps. If it doesn't, please post again.
1. shows problem with coil--changed
2. problem with O2 in block--- changed.
3. did a fuel pressure check on original pump--- replaced with new fuel pump
3000 miles later had same problems did a fuel pump pressure test again and it would not hold pressure.
upon removing 3000 mile pump it was hot to the touch so it must have burnt out.
just installed another new one (12000 miles/ 1 year warantee)
QUESTION will it happen again or is there still something wrong
One other thing you may want to try before taking anything apart is to add a double dose of fuel injector gas additive first to see if it clears up. DO NOT double up again, single dose the second time. I use Lucas upper cylinder lubricant 32 oz size container as it can be used in the months ahead as you purchase gas that might be contaminated from the gas stations
Good Luck