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I'm pretty happy with my 01 Tib, but I usually end up dragging 3-4 people around and I'd like a little more power (more specifically on the low end) to get up and go when I need to impress off the light
Anyway, I was just wondering what I could get for about 175-200 bucks that would help out my low end acceleration.
Thanks.
As far as air intake goes you can do something as simple as new air filter (K&N) or a whole new intake system (Injen) up to porting and polishing the valves very expensive.
I have a K&N and have always used them there a great product.
If you want to go the exhaust route new headers are a good start they might be more than $200 dollars though for good ones any way. New pipes or a muffler might be more in your price range.
For cost reasons I would recommend you try modifying your air intake system to start with.
If you’re looking for places to shop for parts let me know and I can give you some Hyundai performance web sites.
Good luck hope this helps.
Also, would I run into any warranty problems? With new headers or a new air filter, I wouldn't imagine so.
Thanks.
A header on the other hand could be constituted as modifying your engine and could void your drive train warranty.
As for exhaust pipes as long as there put on by a trained mechanic and as not to interfere with or impede with your emissions system there probably wont be any problem.
I would check with Hyundai as to whether or not the headers or pipes would void you warranty. 1-800-633-5151
Just the K&N you could get as much as 6 or 7 hp. at the wheel I got 7 when I put mine in.
Headers will probably give you 10 to 12 hp. this of course is just a guess.
New pipes and muffler probably another 6to 10 hp. Depending on what kind of pipes and muffler you use.
Hope this helps
A few questions for 03 Tib owners: If anyone has the automatic, did you find it to be a bit clunky in its shifting until it learned your driving style? Mine shifts smooth for the most part but a couple shifts have been on the harsh side (mostly 1-2 upshifts). Secondly, is it a common problem to hear the passenger side seat belt buckle rattling against the side of the seat? I almost lost it when I heard a loud rattle coming from the passenger seatback. I breathed a sigh of relief once I noticed the rattle stopped after draping the seatbelt over the side bolster.
I have driven fords and Mitsubishis that have that characteristic (clunk) when up shifting or down shifting.
If you try your auto shift you will see why your car shifts so hard. Engine brakes for you on down shifts.
Down shifts when in manual mode are best left to the shift computer.
As for the seat belt mine makes no noise at all. Don’t know about that problem. Check the belt tensioner and see if it is not keeping the belt taut.
Revka
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Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
BTW...just thought I might put a little added advice here: I went through my credit union and secured my finances, and it is making my buying experience a whole lot better as we are no longer discussing monthly payments but now the final price. (In my case, it saved me from a ton of headaches for sure.)
I'm still enjoying my car immensely. I love everything about it!! It's so smooth and quiet and it effortlessly gains speed quickly. Comfort and interior fit and finish is top notch. I get a lot of looks driving this car and I have been the topic of work place gossip (who would have thought Hyundai would move up high enough to instill envy) 250 blissful miles so far.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
http://www.kbb.com/kb/coolestNewCars
Hyundai Santa Fe 1 2
Own- 2003 Super Silver Tiburon GT-V6 5-speed, 17" rims (8000 miles)
posts (in this forum): #s 98, 105, 127, 135, 138, 139, 142, 152
Exhaust-wise, I'd like a bit more rumble, but am afraid I'll lose some back pressure with a catback, and lose torque as a result. I very happy to leave it as is, for now.
I also must say I'm not too impressed with the structural rigidity of my Tib. It feels solid under most circumstances, but when it encounters very uneven ground, it causes popping noises from the sunroof and hatch. Granted, this is an extreme case where the body is being twisted because I'm going from a flat surface to a sudden uneven raised entrance to my driveway, but my 03 Aerio didn't seem to be bothered by it. I'm guessing the sunroof lowers the Tib's structural integrity or maybe the firm shocks put more strain on the body. It's not a big deal, just an observation.
-Turn the driver's front tire completely to the left (or remove the tire)
- Unscrew the front half of the wheel well liner./ three plastic screws and a bolt/also two more plastic screws under front bumper corner.
- Pull back liner so its hanging out of the way.
- The resonator has three fasteners you need to remove, two 10mm and one 12mm nut. There is a metal bracket riveted to the resonator box. The bracket is attached to the upper fender well
- To get to other side it is easiest to pull of the drivers side headlight, (also take off the little plastic cover on front of battery. You will find the 2nd 10mm nut there.
-The 3rd fastener is a 12mm nut holding the end of the resonator tube to a bracket just in front of the battery.
-There is also a wire clip you need to unclip off the front of the resonator holding the wiring for the fog lights.
-With those three nuts off you can now pull out the resonator.
-It separates from the pipe on top by just pulling, and then with a little twisting you just kinda pull it down and out.
Putting in the K&N filter made more of a sound increase than just removing the resonator.
Sometimes, I wonder if I'm just lucky and have an exceptional car, but I'm amazed at how many people complain about low mileage. I have a GT-V6 Shiftronic, with 32,500 miles on her now. I've replaced the tires already, as well. I consistently get 300-350 miles to a tank and that's just filling up when the light comes on. I generally only get 11.5 to 12.5 gallons on a fill-up. In effect, I have seen 30 MPG in this car, and I DON'T drive conservatively! I haul butt every chance I get. This car begs to be driven hard, and I push it! My last trip I averaged 70 mph on a lot of long strait-a-ways and twisty desert roads and got 28+! But, I've had zero mechanical problems (a noisy idler pulley, replaced under warranty, doesn't count), get exceptional gas mileage, and have no squeaks, rattles, or structural problems. Mine is one of the first builds (November 2001). Maybe they are making changes that are detrimental to the car, or just have poor QA these days!
Are you in the market for a Tiburon?
Revka
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Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
I will say the automatic is the weak spot in this car. It is quite crude and easily confused. Shifts are sometimes smooth and seamless and other times harsh and jerky. I have also experienced a slight "shift flare" (the rpms actually raise for a brief moment before upshifting) at the 2-3 upshift point, as if the computer doesn't know whether to engage third or stay in second. The tranny may need a computer flash, since there is a tsb regarding harsh shifting of the automatic. When I go in for my first oil change, I probably will have them look into it. Hyundai definitely needs to invest some development money into a better automatic though.
I think it may be a bit subjective, but I think the car is more responsive without the resonator, and definitely more throaty when you open it up. Whether it's worth the hassle depends on your own level of expectation. To my mind, it only makes sense to remove what is obviously a restrictive portion of the OEM intake setup.
Glad to hear you're enjoying the car! Hopefully, your problem is TSB related and can be resolved. However, don't take this personally, but it could be because of some erratic driving styles on your part. If you're jumping into manual mode from auto and back to auto to try and figure the tranny out yourself, you're not allowing it to figure YOU out! You do realize this is a fuzzy logic transmission, I'm sure? It adapts very well in my opinion, to where it's personality changes a lot between running the back twisties and cruising the more travelled highways. After a few hours of running it hard and downshifting regularly to 3rd or 2nd on the switchbacks, it takes a few miles of calmed down driving for it to start upshifting sooner and downshifting later.
My biggest beef with the tranny, is that when you are coasting (i.e., just flowing with traffic at less than 40 mph, the tranny doesn't always downshift as soon as I'd like, when I want to get around the pokes. But, this is because the tranny thinks (?) that a more relaxed driver is at the wheel and has to adjust it's fuzzy logic to compensate for an abrupt change in style. The Porsche Tiptronic is very similar in nature, perhaps because the Tiburon tranny has some Teutonic genes itself.
I'm comparing this tranny to the one on my 02 Mitsu Lancer. That car uses fuzzy logic as well and is mostly driven by the other half. When I happen to drive it, the shifts are firm and a little confused for the first 20 minutes, but after that it adapts, shifts smoothly, and stays consistent. I just wish the Tib tranny was as refined.
Good luck with the TSB referenced re-flash.
Overall, this car rocks, the looks sold me, and it has tons of safety features (which I REQUIRE ALWAYS).. also, my car is not considered a high-performance car, so u wont get hit on INS, but if you get the GT, expect a jump.. (on ins and performance)..
By the way, does anyone know what kind of CD-Changer this car will take?
thanks
My initial test drive of the Tiburon convinced me to buy it ($18K + TL). It drove and handled like my 84 Scirocco - one of my favorite cars which I've owned. I really like the Tiburon's firm ride and handling. It feels like it's on a rail.
I'm getting 22.8 MPG on my second fill-up with combined city/highway (frequent starts & stops) driving, an increase of 1 MPG over my first fill-up. It now has 800 miles on the odometer.
The only complaint I had so far until I found out otherwise here in this forum is a handle for grabbing the hatchback to close it. It's easy to miss.
During freeway driving, I find myself looking for a 7th gear.
BTW, this is our 4th Hyundai in the family. My daughter drives an 01 Accent GLS, one son drives an 03 Elantra GT hatchback and my other son drives an 03 Elantra GT 4-door. We bought the 2 Elantra's at the same time about 2 months ago. My wife wanted to buy a 3rd Elantra for herself, but I convinced her to take my Maxima SE instead so I could get the Tiburon for myself. You can't beat the Hyundais for value and with the Tiburon, you also get a high fun factor!
1. There's a product is called "Clean 'N Coat". It is a two-part chemical that applies an antibacterial in an acrylic coating that sticks to the evaporator. It comes in a spray can that you can spray on the evaporator and offers protection for about three years
2.Spray Lysol into the air intake with the blower running with Lysol every week. Or spray into any open vents in the heater core/evaporator housing located under the dash.
3. A product called "Frigi-Fresh". Mostly available at new car dealerships. Longer lasting than Lysol, but not a permanent fix.
4. Get in the habit of turning off the AC a few minutes before you reach your destination. Leave the blower on and it will help remove the extra condensation.
p.s. Has anyone encountered a knocking sound when backing out and turning or making a tight u-turn? My car will make one single pop/clunk that can be felt in the steering as I'm backing out and turning and has done it once while making a u-turn. It sounds very similar to the loud popping I encountered with my Aerio, which was determined to be the brake pad clips not holding the pads in place. Any known problems with the brake pad clips on this car? I was hoping I wouldn't have to deal with this noise again, but hopefully the dealer can fix it right the first time when I take my car in at 3k for an oil change.
o/t then that.. I love the car.. great looks.. I got 23 mpg on full tank.. hopefully it'll stay that way.. 420 miles on ODOMETER.. and would highly advise everyone to get the windows tinted on this car.. it's very cheap and makes a world of difference for the looks.. and will save your interior..
cya
If you're a payment buyer, you're most likely to pay close to MSRP. Just finance at someplace else and negotiate the total price with the dealer.
There is a local dealer in my area that never advertises the asking price. It's always the monthly payment; for example, $159/mo, $179/mo, etc. Of course, the fine print at the bottom of the screen reads "loan term 72 months", or "loan term 84 months."
As P.T. Barnum used to say: "There's a sucker born every minute."
those changes, along with the kick-butt outside, would make the car unstoppable!
On a side note, I ordered an RRM front strut brace and should be installing it this weekend. I'll let everyone know how easy it is to install and whether it makes a noticeable difference. 2500 miles so far and everything is going great. I love my Tib!!