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I had a clean profile for 9+ years and would appreciate it if anyone could offer advice about a reputable insurance provider who would offer a more competitive rate. I know I will be dinged pretty badly for this, but would like to know who would offer maximum discounts based on previous clean record, occupation, safety features (I will probably purchase a Toyota Matrix with ABS and side air bags), or additional driving school certification. I live in the SF Bay Area. Thank you.
Now, the W may have a contempt action against the H for violating the Judge's order, but that still has no bearing on Visa...sending Visa a copy of the divorce decree is only wasting time and postage, as they are not bound by a divorce decree...
My only point is that while the driver of the car is usually responsible for the damages he/she caused, my point is that the Judge's order is probably not the decree that makes it so, but state law, as Judge's decrees are not the omnipotent documents people like to think they are when it applies to third parties like lenders, and maybe insurance...
Now, if the Judge ordered child support from H, and if he doesn't pay, Hell hath no fury like a Judge when support falls into arrears, but that is a direct order on a "more important" debt, not a simple signed credit contract...
Laws must vary from state-to-state, and depending on the entity. I had a somewhat similar situation and was deemed not liable solely because I was decreed not responsible. But hopefully, the ex-spouse will simply take the responsibility that is truly his, and deal with the accident and its costs.
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I was in stop and go traffic and rear end by tt. I have not gotten an estimate yet as it happened earlier today. It is a 2001 Accord VP (paid off) with almost 80k miles. The rear end top of trunk to lower bumper is pushed in about 6 inches, all lights are broken,and I don't dare open the trunk b/c I am sure it won't close after. With a third kid on the way, we have plans on getting a minivan in May/June. Are we SOL on losing value or can we request a total? Would it be in our interest to trade it in as is and take a check from their insurance? We had hoped to sell it to someone vs. trading it in, but now we wouldn't feel good about selling it to someone with previous damage regardless of how good the repair is. We had hoped to get around 9k for it.
Thnaks!
Anyway, it sounds like this puppy is totalled (trunk lid, trunk floor, and 2 rear quarter panels?). So, depending on the insurance company, you may make out pretty good on this deal since you wanted to unload it anyway.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
we base the 9k on Edmonds, NADA and traderonline, all of which say 8-9k. So who knows.
I do like your thoughts of it being totalled, if they go by a NADA retail. I know people have said they don't really know what insurance companies use to determine value. Do you thik we would only get 6k from that?
Thanks
I must have done something different than you when pricing it, cause I checked before responding to your post and Edmunds told me $64xx trade-in value (in the northeast, since that's my home region). But I didn't have much info to go on, so who knows.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
To me it's pretty clear based on the testimony of two witnesses, the guy ran a red light. Yet he claims up and down that he had a green light.
Luckily for my friend there doesn't appear to be any permanent injuries. It's been a couple weeks since the accident yet she still has some pain and hasn't gone back to work yet. She's debating going to a lawyer.
How long should it take for his insurance company to decide if he's responsible or not? His insurance company is Progressive.
If your friend has been out of work and is in pain, I hope she has been to a doctor. If so, she needs to talk to HER insurance company and find out how to proceed with getting financial satisfaction from the offending party's insurance company. Yes, a lawyer may be in order.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
All the preceding was for one purpose...that is why some insurance companies may wait before assuming liability, because if their insured gets the ticket dismissed, then, legally, they may no longer be guilty and insurance, may not have to pay for an accident where their client was "not guilty"...I have seen it happen more times than I can count...may never happen in other states with different laws, but this is the stupid crap we live with in GA...
If it was the other parties fault, you should have a rental until they settle the property damage portion of the claim.
You should be able to get compensated for equipment, time lost from work and/or revenue lost from being out the car and injury.
Depending on who the insurance company is, they have different ways of how they figure out what to compensate for on a total loss.
you may get them to pay you for the total, and ask to keep the carcass, and then you can go around checking body shops and see if someone will repair it for what insurance paid, or even add your own $500, and it will still be cheaper than buying another car outright...caution, ins co may deduct a few hundred dollars from your settlement for allowing you to keep the carcass, since they usually sell them to junkyards for a few hundred bucks...if you keep the car they will lose that money and may deduct it from your final check...
A replacement vehicle can't be purchased without paying the ST.
So please if someone knows how long after an accident and if the police report wasnt reported and no witnesses, is the guy's statement valid at all?
If he comes back at any time, just tell him to take it up with your insurance company. Then your insurance company will call you and you can provide your side of the story and the photos. Its really not a big deal, IMHO.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The other driver decided to file a claim with their insurance company (GEICO), and I have been expecting to become the target of a subrogation. I have been keeping some money set aside for that, but so far have heard nothing. It has been over 2 months now.
How likely is it that GEICO decided not to subrogate? If they do subrogate, when will it likely happen and what will happen next? Will I get a letter from GEICO first asking for the damages, or some kind of legal action?
Thanks for any insight you can provide. I suppose I could call the other driver back and ask how much the repair bill was, but I don't want to put them in a potentially awkward position.
Some jacka$$ hit me and I found out about 2 weeks after the accident (when my company tried to subbrogate) that his ins had expired less than 1 month before the accident because of non payment!
My ins repaired my car (minus ded) and I don't think they went after the other party, because it was not cost effective. Fortunately there were no injuries involved, or it would have been another matter entirely. I had the option of suing the other person, but I never did -$500 ded plus $150 or so rental car = not worth it, except to "teach a lesson". I decided it was not worth the effort either.
Now about that story about stalling and losing power brakes.
LOL You have 2 or 3 good power assisted pedals left when a car stalls because of the "leftover vacuum" in the booster, unlike power steering which cuts out immediately.
Me thinks someone is not being entirely up front about events.
I would be quite willing to pay the other driver's deductible, since we all agree that my car and its driver initiated the sequence that led to the collision. But I don't want to pay that money on good faith, and then have the insurance company demand it from me again. But I also don't want to just call up GEICO and say "when are you going to subrogate, because I'm ready to pay"!
So I guess I'll just keep waiting.
nodamage..as long as 2 cars collide, they have every right to demand your insurance info, and you have every leagl duty to provide it, regardless of any opinion you may have about damages...not to be an idiot about this, but I recommend to every client, if you are involved in a five dollar paint scratch, call police to come to the scene and make a report...'tis better to have the report and not need it, than need it and not have it...no insult intended, but if you think I will depend on the other guy to verify his fault in an accident with no police report, you must believe in the tooth fairy...you have one chance to document your accident and who was at fault, that is what police reports are for...if there is no damage, then so be it...but a wheel could be bent, a tire could be weakened, a disc or caliper could be damaged, and axle or bearing might be warped...just because he could not detect anything in the parking lot, well, I would protect myself and get a report, if nothing else just to establish fault, so my insurance, if needed, will not go up from making a claim...
And, leave the cars exactly as they are. This would be tantamount to "preserving the crime scene." If you have those new camera cell phones, use them to take photos.
In Florida, they have to be moved if they are drive'able.
Good advice though on the camera cell phone.
We had a case in Hawaii in which the entire freeway was blocked after a motorcycle fatality - the victim struck a medial barrier at an off-ramp. No thru traffic allowed until the on-site investigation was completed as everyone was routed via the off-ramp. That took FOUR hours before even one lane on the freeway was opened.
I'm sorry to sound hard-hearted, but I NEVER agree to NOT call the police because the other guy doesn't have insurance or has a "friend" who can fix the body damage. Anyone who falls for this can almost be assured that the story will change.
Addition to that.....And there are no injuries.
Au contraire my friend ... insurance companies would like -not- to pay the taxes ... but a good negotiater will get his final price, then ask, and get the taxes - it's done everyday ...
Terry.
Terry.
Having said that, I will try in the future...
To compose better, so my...
English teacher will be proud of me...
Is
That
Better???..............:):):):):)...Bedtime...
I will turn 21 in 25 days (at the end of April).
I have driven for almost 4 years. I have had 1 speeding ticket.
How much would be a reasonable rate for insurance on a new Acura tsx?
(I am able to be added on someone elses policy)
ANYBODY HAVE ANY SIMILAR SITUATIONS?
HOW MUCH DO YOU PAY?
SHOULD I WAIT UNTIL I TURN 21 at the end of April until I buy?
It would not be worth buying a car and paying 3k+ more annually...
Please help, Thanks
What formula is used to determine whether or not a vehicle gets totalled? Everyone tells me the vehicle will never be right. I try to be an optimist, but I wonder if I wouldn't be better off it was totalled and I could start fresh. Considering I owe about $15,000 on this new vehicle, and it's probably not worth anywhere near that now, thanks to the accident....
And what can I do about the body shop? This is a "Service First" facility, which is one of the State Farm recommended shops. My husband has used them before, and their work was good in the past. I feel like they're jerking me around. On one day, they tell me one thing, and two days later, it's a different story altogether. What can I do to expedite this, and make sure my vehicle is correctly repaired/restored to its pre-accident condition?
Also, is it worth pursuing a "diminshed value" claim?
The other party was uninsured, and this will most likely go through my insurance's "uninsured motorist" coverage.
Finally, if people do not have insurance, what in the h*** are they doing on the roads?
Terry.
Who are you going after, the ins company, the repair shop or the person who hit you? Also, to some extent collecting on this depends on the state you live in.
As I understand it, Diminished value claims can be either against the Insurance company for not authorizing proper repairs, (they've offered you $1,000) the repair shop (most reputable ones will guarantee their work) or Inherent meaning what is the "perceived" loss in value of yours on a lot compared to another exactly like it that has not been wrecked.
If the work is guaranteed by the shop and their repair includes OEM parts and all required work was authorized and paid for by the ins company you may only have Inherent Diminished Value/property damage. I belive this would be a claim against the party who hit you and would fall into property damage category. After reading other comments on these posts on collecting on property damage, these can be hard to collect on as you have to prove your loss and generally it will not be as much as the potential for personal injury. Generally lawyers are more interested in personal injury, as that is where the money is.
IMHO, get the dealership estimate, add the $1000, and balance that against if the time and effort attempting to collect the difference is worth the lawyer fees.
Good luck
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to sylvest78, get insurance quotes before you buy. We recently purchased liability only on a '02 Integra for our teenge sons and our ins agent said liability only is pretty reasonable, as full coverage on an Integra for a youngg (male)driver is pretty expensive.
When I drove for a short distance, i smelled something burning and the speakers started making a hissing sound and then loud creaking noises. I immediately pulled over and turned off the car. The hissing/creaking from the speakers continued although key was removed from ignition.
Got the car towed to a body shop where an adjuster looked at it after 2 days and said it might be totaled. The battery has been disconnected to stop speakers from making sounds. My guess is that the amplifier is shorted, but i don't know if there are bigger problems. The radio does not turn on but the speakers make noise anyway (if the battery is connected).
The car is in excellent shape mechanically and I would like to know what is the best course of action if the appraiser's estimate is close to 80% of Actual Cash Value.
1. I could argue that they repair it. Would they be required to pay for further damages within the next few months if there is further damage to sensors etc?
2. Take the money they offer and buy a new/ slightly used car. Nada guide has my car at 14,100. KBB has it at 13000 (accounting for leather, sunroof, alloy, in dash cd changer etc)
3. Take the ACV less Salavage value and keep the car. Get the glasses fixed (about 2000$), amplifier replaced (about 500$ plus labor) and ignore the little dents on the body which I am told pop out in the Texas heat. If i do take this option, is there some way I can get the electrical system examined to check for possible damage to other sensors (body shops in the Austin area don't seem to have much experience with electrical systems and the only dealer is 30 miles away and I don't know if i should be driving there)? Would you recommend disconnecting the fuse for the amplifier circuit and driving the car short distances to get estimates?
If anyone has knowledge of Eclipse, do you know if there are important sensors under the seat/ on the floor?
Also, if the car were totaled due to hail damage, do you know how it would show up on on title searches such as carfax? i.e. would i be doomed if trying to sell the car in a couple of years?
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.