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I hope someone can lead me in the right direction. Here is my problem I have a 1995 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4x4 it seems that my egr valve keeps getting clogged up with carbon I went ahead and took it off and cleaned it out but that only lasted a couple of weeks it's doing the same thing again I took it apart again and found more carbon they were almost like little rocks of carbon. I tried looking online for some help on cleaning out the egr and I guess the intake but not much help found can someone help me resolve this problem. Is there something I can buy to clean out the carbon and is there somewhere I can get directions on how to take apart the intake if I have to. Thank You for the help!!!!!!
It is a vortech V6 TBI 4x4
I hope someone can lead me in the right direction. Here is my problem I have a 1995 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4x4 it seems that my egr valve keeps getting clogged up with carbon I went ahead and took it off and cleaned it out but that only lasted a couple of weeks it's doing the same thing again I took it apart again and found more carbon they were almost like little rocks of carbon. I tried looking online for some help on cleaning out the egr and I guess the intake but not much help found can someone help me resolve this problem. Is there something I can buy to clean out the carbon and is there somewhere I can get directions on how to take apart the intake if I have to. Thank You for the help!!!!!!
Second, you may have the distributor 180-out. I'm guessing you didn't bring #1 to TDC, mark the position of the rotor to the relation of the body before you took everything apart. Or just left the motor as is, mark the locations, pull the distributor straight out, left that alone, and put it back in? Did you at least mark the distributor where the wires went and how they were routed? One trick you can try, and it doesn't work all the time be may in this case, is to place the old distributor cap w/wires still connected (they're still connected right?), onto the distributor, and go one at a time, longest to short, and see where they fall. This could at least give you a guesstimate. Not sure distributor caps are marked anymore. Last ones I saw marked where the FOMOCOs, and that was LONG time ago. But again, get a manual!!
Tightening the rocker arms won't help on the compression, who told you that? :confuse: Pull a Moe/Larry/Curly and give them a slap on the head and an eye-gouge. :P It'll help if you have pushrod noise, tightening a little can quiet a pushrod down. But in terms of raising compression, haven't heard that one before. Is the idea that the valve is staying open and by tightening/loosening the rocker the valve will move up/down and eventually stay close? If that's the case, then either the valve job was bad, the seats/valves are at a major mismatch,letting air/fuel mix just blow-by or the heads are junk. Assuming you had the valve job done due to excessive blow-by? Also, don't tighten too much or you will ruin the lifter and cam lobe in a hurry.
Sounds like you may have a ring problem. Do you hear air passing through anything or any openings? How's the cranking, strong? With those low compressions you're engine isn't going to start, period. I would want to pull those heads off, make sure they're flat, check the seat/bowl/valve areas for cracks or other damage, then re-torque them (correct procedure, sequence, torque spec.).
As a last resort, tow the Blazer to some that knows what they're doing and have them get it in running order. Or call them over. But in any even get a manual and read it.
So, i'm hoping that they're wrong, i'm going to bring it to another mechanich tomarrow. You don't happen to know what it is do you?
thanks
Is there a way to open the tailgate manually? I would like to change out the lock and so on, but can't get to it.
Thanks for any help!!! :mad:
Thank you,
Henry
Henry
the way you decribe the problem with the 4 low engaging im sure that this has to be it. i dont remember what the part is called but i got one at the delear for about 90 bucks and it took about 10 min to install. its bolted on to the body if you look up the wheel well on the front passanger side you should be able to see the bolts holding it in place anyways i hope this helps you and by the way if yours has the limited slip let me just tell you the 4 wheelin is awesome ive had so much fun in my truck good luck
G'Luck!
Rex S.
Ever since then, it runs VERY rough when at idle (stopped or at a red light, etc.). I have checked to make sure I got all the wires going to the correct cylinders from the distributor cap. (I've now got 118,000 miles on the beast)
Then this last spring I made a cross country trip from Texas to Virginia... halfway through Tennessee, the Check Engine light came on intermittently... I took it to 2 dealers (Tennessee and Virginia) and neither could figure out what was wrong. One changed my thermostat,and the other charged me $300 to change 6-inces of vacuum line and to spray out the carbon from the intake.
After I returned to Texas, I replaced another 6 feet of cracked/falling apart vacuum lines.. but I still have a VERY rough idle.. I'm getting some dieseling when I shut off the Blazer, and when I start it up, I smell a DISTINCT smell of gasoline - and sometimes a rotten egg smell.
a) I had the catalytic converter changed about 2 years ago - I don't *think* that would be the problem.
b) When changing the plugs/wires - I *did* get a couple of them swapped for a second. I fixed it immediately.. But could I have done any valve damage by starting it up with a bad firing order?
c) I changed the o2 sensor when I returned to Texas.. still rough & smelly (the Blazer - not me).
d) EGR valve was changed waaaaayyy back at about 50,000 miles - under Mfg Exhaust system warranty. Both dealers told me that EGR valve couldn't be the problem I was experiencing - though to ME it gave the same symtoms - rough idle, wanted to die at low idle...
Would it be worth my time to simply get a timing light to see if my timing was knocked out of whack when I changed the distributor cap & rotor? Or does anyone here have any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Rex S.
Blue = Oil
Black = To Rich
White = Could be moisture in the engine. That may be moisture in the exhaust system
boiling off as it heats up. If so, the volume will diminish after the engine warms up... The bad news is that there's definitely the possibility of a cracked block or blown gasket causing coolant into the engine's combustion area. Change or check your oil and look carefuily to see if there's any antifreeze or water in the oil. Check your coolant to see if there's any oil in the coolant. That'll give you a place to start the diagnosis.
Problem was a carbon chunk lodged beneath the pin in the EGR valve.
Happened first time on vacation so I paid too much to have the problem fixed. Next time I did it myself...then again, and again, and again. Finally found a permanent fix via internet forum. Bought a $5 gasket with a built in screen. Not a single problem since. Catches the larger carbon particles before they can enter the valve. If loose carbon buildup is your problem, a new EGR valve won't fix it.
Check out this site http://www.tomco-inc.com/
You can buy at local auto parts stores, too. Tomco should be able to give you local retailers who carry it.
Hope this may help.
93Blazer001,005,006 are pics of my column.
ReadmePg1 is my 2 cents.
HowTopg1 & Pg2 is chiltons instructions.
Thanks
Bill
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a307/bilb/93Blazer001.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a307/bilb/93Blazer005.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a307/bilb/93Blazer006.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a307/bilb/ReadmePg1.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a307/bilb/HowToPg1.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a307/bilb/HowToPg2.jpg
I replaced the engine and I forgot to label a couple of wires as well as the posts on the starter itself.
Essentially, I have a total of three wires that can possibly go to the starter and though I have some idea where these probably go, it would be a great help to have some certainty of their position.
First of all there are two wires that originate from the battery's positive lead. One of the wires is thick, it is colored black and its end terminal fits a 5/16" stud. The stated terminal end has a bent prong. I am pretty sure that this wire goes to the starter and fits on the 5/16" stud facing towards the wheel well with the slotted base base (to accomodate the bent prong). The other wire originates at the same place, is red and not as thick with a 5/16" round terminal connection. Where the hell does this one go? :confuse:
Also, there is a green wire with a black plastic corrugated jacket that originates from the same wiring bundle (behind where the radiator hose goes behind the alternator) that the wires to the EGR, IAT, Throttle Position Sensor, MAP Sensor etc... originate. This wire has a small round connector at the terminal end which seems to fit an 1/8" stud and seems to run down the front of the engine on the timing chain cover and come out where the crankcase position sensor is located. I would think this wire goes to the small 1/8" stud on the starter?
It would really make my day if anyone can tell me how the starter gets connected or can send me a picture of a correctly connected starter for this motor. Or can tell me where the stated wires get connected.
Thanks,
Visigoth