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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance

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  • scott32scott32 Member Posts: 1
    You're not going to want to hear this, but I had a probelm with my '98 S-10 blazer which was oil in the radiator. After several engine flushed and two summers of overheating problems, the dealer finally discovered a bad head gasket. I ended up getting the engine rebuilt. My radiator had a sludge like substance though, not just a little oil. Also I never experienced white smoke, but it sounds like oil is getting where it shouldn't.
  • irvinirvin Member Posts: 2
    How are these engines for everyday gas mileage and with good maintenance are there 200,000 mile 2.2's out there.THANKS!!
  • hewybohewybo Member Posts: 10
    my 85 has this problem- when driven for a long while at night, the headlights begin to blink on and off, and sometimes go off completely!. If I let it set a while, they come back on. ithat sounds like some sort of thermal breaker link, but I can find no such animal. Anybody know anything about this? :(:(
  • revverrevver Member Posts: 2
    Does any one have the official GM paint code for a 1996 S-10 which is bright red. I know it is on the label in the glove box of the truck, but the label in this truck has been destroyed and left illegible. The paint does not look like a clear coat and is not metallic. thanks for your help.

    -revver
  • crashtest2crashtest2 Member Posts: 1
    Had a new Jasper transmission a little over 2.5 years ago according to ex owner. On the way home about 45 miles into our trip it started leaking transmission fluid about just a small stream mid ways of the front axle, leaked just enough to cover a little on the ground and when I backed it up a little more, then nothing else. Checked fluid etc, showed full. Drove another 5 miles, no leak, check fluids again nothing. It was not over full etc. Continued to check it every 10 miles or so, no more leaks. When we made it to the house after it had cooled off so we could get under it. Check for seals leaking etc. Nothing. Check the vacuum hoses and found transmission fluid in them just a little bit off the transmission area, can see no cracks, leaking seals etc underneath. Can you advise on what this might be. Found a few vacuum lines on the motor loose or bad, have replaced those but haven't driven the vehicle since until I know what to do. Course it's holiday so no service shops were open to call but thought I would try here since I've ran across it online. Thanks so much for your help. Oh it never leaked again after the first time. It has 161600 miles on it.
  • b_diggyb_diggy Member Posts: 2
    My '94 S10 (2wd, 2.2L manual trans) Just clicks when I try to start it and melted a wire under the column. The interior lights still come on and none of the fuses are blown. Where's the problem?
  • robiscool11robiscool11 Member Posts: 4
    Try putting in GM syncromesh trans oil in it. I had the same problem. The oil was too think in the trans.
  • robiscool11robiscool11 Member Posts: 4
    try code: 81/WA8774 - Flame Red Clearcoat
    PS this is a good paint code search sight:
    http://www.paintscratch.com/search.htm
  • rcook1rcook1 Member Posts: 1
    I have this same problem on a 2000 S10 LS w/2.2L and auto, 79K. What is the solution?
  • headknockerheadknocker Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1992 Chevy S10 Blazer 4x4 - V-6 - automatic transmission. This vehicle has over 225,000 miles on her. I know....amazing. Other than some routine maintenance and some surface rust, she has been a good vehicle.

    Tonite I had some major problems with my Blazer. During the drive home on the open highway she broke down. I was passing a truck at the time of the trouble. As I applied the gas to pass the slower vehicle, the Blazer seemed to hesitate and kind of lose power. It soon regained power and I made it past the truck. Within minutes I could clearly hear one (or more ?) of the push rods tapping loudly. Just as that happened I could smell motor oil and then the oil pressure gauge shot to zero.

    Needless to say I quickly shut the Blazer down and pulled over onto the shoulder. I inspected the Blazer and I did not see any fluids leaking from underneath or above. I did not see any physical damage to the engine at all. I checked the fluids and they were all
    within reasonable/applicable levels.

    As I waited for the tow truck, out of curiousity, I attempted to start the S10 Blazer. She did start and I could clearly hear the push rods tapping very loudly. I turned the Blazer off within a blink of an eye.

    I am no mechanic, hence why I am posting here. But I know a little bit...enough to get me in trouble. It is my opinion that the oil pump gave up the ghost. Would you agree with that?

    Also, if it is just contained to the oil pump failing, is there possible damage to the rest of the engine? Is it even worth having repaired, keeping in mind that a mechanic would probably have to tear into the engine and inspect it before assessing the cost, considering it is a '92 model with over 225k miles?

    Your ideas and opinions are appreciated.
  • depbulldepbull Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 S-10 2.2, I will be at a traffic light and start to take off, and as soon as I push the gas it starts to (for the lack of a better word) SPUTTER! the service engine light comes on, it acts like it's not getting gas, it doesn't completely stall, this happened the other day and i was able to sputter to a parking lot. Here is the kicker! I can turn the car off a couple of times, and the service engine light goes off, and the truck will run fine for a while, and then do it again about a month later.
    I also will start it sometimes, drive off and the trany won't shift into 1st till about 3000 rpms and again I can turn the truck off and back on, and it will be fine till the next time. I have had to 5 different mechanics, and no one can find the problem, I am going to take to a GMC to see if they can figure it out, I have avoided dealerships because they charge so much, but i do trust these guys. If anyone has an idea of what is going on please let me know, The mechanics I have taken it to have hooked up to a computer and it not register anything, this is mindboggling to me and about to give me a heart attack since it's my only vehicle, and my lifline to my son.
  • davekelly1979davekelly1979 Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem with my 93 (digital dash too). I replaced the vacuum switch down on the transfer case wiht one from Oreilly's (one of those HELP products). It has three tubes sticking out of it, pretty cheap too. Yours may be OK though if you hear a clunking (that's the transfer case shifting in). I was an idiot and hooked them up wrong. I finally found someone explaining the layout of the three tubes on s-10forumns.com. I can't remember exactly, but here's what I can tell you. One is a VENT, one is vacuum source, and one runs all the way up under the battery (it runs an actuator). My idiotness hooked the vent up to vaccuum by mistake. My Blazer ran horribly and seemed to be making oil... Actually it was sucking tranny fluid into the engine from the vent! Please don't do that. :) It sounds like you probably have a bad vaccuum line b/w the switch on the transfer case and the actuator under the battery. A cheap vaccuum pump/guage from Harbor freight may also prove useful in troubleshooting the dreaded vacuum problems. Hope that helps.
  • streetrjstreetrj Member Posts: 1
    Chevy has a failure with the catalyctic convertor in the exhaust system.I had mine checked.There is some thing about the inside of the exhaust going to convertor coming apart.This is not a recall but,a up to 120000 mile extended warranty because of the problem.The dealer has to check this free.You will only be out your time.I also have 98 s10 standard shift 4 cylinder.
  • depbulldepbull Member Posts: 3
    I APPRECIATE THE HELP........IT'S GOING IN THE SHOP TOMORROW, I'LL LET YOU KNOW
  • rollinlow1986rollinlow1986 Member Posts: 3
    hey man, i have a 92 S10 Extended cab 4.3L and actually had that same problem, it eventually got to the point where it would squeak and grind no matter what, so i took a look at the brake pads and noticed the outside pad on the left side was worn down really low.
  • rollinlow1986rollinlow1986 Member Posts: 3
    on a 1992 S10 Extended Cab 4.3L V6, my speedometer went out a while back. i've tried replacing the speed sensor on the side on the tranny but hat didn't do anyhitng but take my money out of my pocket, if anybody knows what i shoudl do, please let me know so i don't get pulled over again :confuse:
  • nreyesnreyes Member Posts: 1
    I have a '93 S-10 Blazer with CPI fuel injection that will crank but not run. I tried putting gas into the cylinders and it ran for about 10 seconds then died. How do I test the CPI octopus cable and fuel pump to determine which one is bad? Help :sick:
  • headknockerheadknocker Member Posts: 3
    Just a quick update on my situation with the '92 S10 Blazer. It is now confirmed that
    the motor threw a rod through the engine block. Its unfortunate for several reasons. Though I am down to one vehicle it is more distressing to know the old ride has ridden off into the sunset. But it sure was a good automobile for some 225k miles.
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    I still have my 2.8L engine (1992) 5-speed and it runs like a champ with low miles (128,000). I don't plan on getting rid of it because it's too practicle even though it is beginning to be an eye sore with rust threw in a few places. Besides it really has no resale value at this point. I do still achieve 25 + mpg on highway drives while traveling however.

    I have heard the 2.2L engine is pretty good from people I have talked with. When I bought mine I really wanted the Iron Duke engine (2.5L), but my Tahoe S10 package was a great price with the 2.8L. The 2.5L has got to be one of the best four cylinder engines for longevity ever made.
  • 95guy95guy Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I own a 95 Chevy S-10 with the 2.2 liter (hamster in a cage) engine. It has 160,000 miles. Recently, it started running rough and loosing power. Occasionally, the truck would run very rough and stall out. Finally it stalled out and would not start again. After about a day, I went out to see if it would start again. I did but only ran for about 30 seconds. Then it died and would not start again. I have no idea what the problem is. I replaced the MAP sensor and the ignition system (coils, wires, ignition module and crank sensor). It still does the same thing-Runs for 30 seconds, sputters out and will not start again. Any idea what the problem is? It is getting fuel and almost seems to stall out because it is flooded. Any help would be appricated.
  • newfiebuddynewfiebuddy Member Posts: 5
    hey Rollinlow I have a 93 blazer that was the same! Your best thing to do is go on e-bay and look there ,they have a kit you can buy and repair it yourself for cheap or bid on a speedometer cluster . I had two go on me with the same vehicle,and tried both ways and found the best way to go was to buy the cluster. Write it in as an 88 to a 93 and you will see what is available. This takes care of the speedo problem.I had police stop me for the same reason and just by luck I talked myself out of a ticket, but he told me not to get caught riding it because the fine will cost more then the repair. PS. make sure you check or ask about the miles or Km's on the cluster to make sure they are not more than your own!! :)
  • newfiebuddynewfiebuddy Member Posts: 5
    Your best bet is to try a light sanding with 1200 grit sand paper and then spray a couple coats of clear coat which you can find at any auto supply store or auto paint store.
    :)
  • rich19rich19 Member Posts: 2
    it's the fuel pump or fuel filter or both. Replace fuel filter first its cheap and easy
  • rich19rich19 Member Posts: 2
    replace fuel filter
  • newfiebuddynewfiebuddy Member Posts: 5
    Like you I have replaced just about everything. I have a 93 s10 blazer with engine code w and I can start it up drive it away with alot of power, then 5 min down the road it will loose power, so I would turn off the engine and start it again and its back to normal for another 5 min. It runs like it is missing on one of its cilinders sometimes. I have replaced the fuel pump,fuel pressure regulator, the whole fuel injector system(to buy in canada at a dealership which is the only place to buy it, costs $800 plus), Distributor shaft,distributor cap,rotor button,temperature sensor,silinoid,wires,plugs,fuel filter,fuses,computer,I have had it at four different garages and had it put on an analasis machine,put on its timing and in this time had no check engine light or any other light on and the garages cannot find the problem.
    Should I go on? It's been a royal pain in the behind! If you find out any answers please let me know and I will do the same.thanks
    :confuse:
  • newfiebuddynewfiebuddy Member Posts: 5
    you actually have a 350 with two cylinders cut off, if you size it up to a 350.
  • newfiebuddynewfiebuddy Member Posts: 5
    try taking the battery cable off for a few seconds and then put it back on this will reset your computer!
  • revverrevver Member Posts: 2
    Thanks robiscool 11. Appreciate your suggestion of the code 81/WA8774, will follow up on that. I have also checked out the site you recommended. I was hoping someone had an S-10 with the code still on it.

    -revver
  • munciemuncie Member Posts: 2
    I have had it with this stupid EGR valve on my 1993 s-10 Blazer 4.3L. The first time I had it cleaned it cost me $75.00. I learned the hard way that it was a waste of time and money. I have cleaned it 10 times in the past few years and it keeps getting clogged. There must be an underlying cause to this. It must be running rich but what would cause this? I have replaced the O2 sensor. MAP sensor maybe? The exhaust smells very rich. Gas millage is normal 18-22 highway. Any ideas? I like the screened gasket that I have seen on other posts and I will probably get one but that still does not solve the cause.
  • munciemuncie Member Posts: 2
    I have been told several times that s-10's eat ball joints. Design flaw I guess. I had mine (93 s-10 blazer 4x4) replaced about 6 years ago and I think they are gone again. I have about an inch of play in the steering. I don't do much off road stuff anymore so that must be why they have lasted so long. I was told that if you so much as bump a curb they will start to go bad. I believe it.
  • platnm6309platnm6309 Member Posts: 1
    Please bear with me, I am a newbie here. First off I just 3 weeks ago I bought a 1999 S-10 Blazer 2wd, 4 door, leather and absolutely beautiful.

    Ok, while driving home (50 miles), it red lined and out went the antifreeze. So, I called the dealership and they towed it in and fixed it...ha, ha.

    Now, with my other long lists of minor repairs (they have an autonation warranty for 2 mos) I took it in yesterday... and again, it over heated.

    Now, they are angry because I put this purchase on a credit card. Just yesterday I contacted the credit card company, told them everything and I wanted to give the car back so, they will get involved to resolve everything.

    I am now very leary in keeping this car.. GM knows the dex-cool is a major problem. Now, with it overheating, I am afraid I did a lot more damage... head gasket, something..

    Any clues out there? One on the over heating, one on a warranty, and about the return of the car...

    Thanks
    :-( :confuse:
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    One thing you may check in a clogged catalytic converter. This will prevent sufficient exhaust flow or running. Did it seem like it was losing power shortly before it got bad? When you replaced the electric parts did you use quality replacements?
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    I have never replaced mine on my 92 two-wheel drive and I have hit a curb before during slick snow conditions years ago. Over a-year-ago a mechanic friend said they were good and tight when we tested them up on jack stands. I always lube them every year.
  • mib4ukmib4uk Member Posts: 5
    I had an '89 S-10 pick-up that was running rough. The plug wires were "leaking" their current. Start the vehicle after dark and check under the hood with no lights on anywhere (headlights, garage light, porch light, under hood light, etc.) totally dark. If this is your problem you will see the sparks coming from the wires and grounding to the block/manifold. I replaced the plug wires and the plugs while I was at it, and it ran fine. Hope this helps.
  • tektek Member Posts: 5
    Hello, Tek here. I have a 99 s-10 blazer and just had the water pump replaced at 92K. The only issue I had with the over heat was with the hydrolic lifters in the engine. Apparently there is a liquid additive that you can add to the oil to correct the problem or at least conceal it. One major thing about the dealer repairing your Blazer... Never let them do it!!! Unless you know exactly what is wrong and what needs to be replaced. They dont take the time or concern to actually look over the vehicle to see if there is any other problem related or caused by the one you are getting repaired. I have had this problem twice and paid a considerable amount of cash to do so. I now have a mechanic to take care of the little beast and all is well. Most importantly when replacing the water pump you must replace all hoses to/from it and also the thermostat. Good luck and sorry for such a long response.
    Tek
  • tektek Member Posts: 5
    You might want to try a pressure flush or a new water pump.
    Tek
  • tektek Member Posts: 5
    I have a 99 s-10 blazer and have a similar problem. I found that being non-agressive on your take off and slow braking seem to help a bit. I tried the high octane and saw no difference. I hear cold air intake might help a bit but I dont want to waste the cash to find out. I also now keep it at 65mph at all time (w/cruise control) on the freeway and that has boosted the mileage up to about 18mpg all around.
    Hope that helps.
    Tek
  • tektek Member Posts: 5
    Multipurpose switch only handles the brakes, turns sigs, cruise, and wipers. Nothing else. I just had that switch replaced due to a blinker issue. The damn thing wouldnt stop making the blinker noise.
    Tek.
  • digga005digga005 Member Posts: 4
    then will not start this all happened in 3 days it has great spark the fuel pump stopped working it sounded like so i replaced it tried to start it and nothing i can hear the fuel pump working checked the line at the fuel filter plenty of fuel both sides also replaced so great spark getting fuel but no start any help would be great or something i'm missing all connections check no bad wires, new exhaust I'm Dying over hear :sick:
  • tektek Member Posts: 5
    I need to change my statement here. I did some research and found that since the brights also go through that switch it is possible that could be the problem. My apologies. However. That paticular part is about $225 and then labor on top. So you want to be sure. I found that the little computer that they use to check the diags will tell you if it is the problem or not. Good luck.
    Tek
  • digga005digga005 Member Posts: 4
    seems that my last assesment was wrong. I sprayed a little ether in the intake and it started for a min.so i'm not getting fuel up to the engine. but i have changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump which was a nightmare all by it self.It just will not start. anybody out there have any idea's?????
  • digga005digga005 Member Posts: 4
    Again any suggestions please now have replaced the octopus injector still nothing will not start without ether any help out there??????????????
  • tinkintinkin Member Posts: 2
    I replaced 3 fuel pumps which last one was in June this year. It started running rough eating gas check engine light came on took it to garage put on computer showed to rich in fuel. The service station said to try new plugs & plug wires possible it was fuel lines leaking under plentium. Done spark plugs & wires. Seemed a little better for a day or so went back to the way it was. Went & got new rotor & distributor cap which was bad. Seemed to help as well. Check engine light came back on took it to garage showed coil problems. It smelt horrible & had gas smell. Replaced coil. No better. Ran rough, loped, hesitated. Check engine light came on again replaced spider injectors. Could not have ran any better for about 20 min. Started all over again check engine computer shows no code. Any advice what else it may be?
  • digga005digga005 Member Posts: 4
    verified fuel to the octopus pulled the fuel feed line turned the key shot a stream 20' so getting fuel checked the noid light to the wiring getting a steady pulse still will not start only thing left is to check the computer or I read that they made 2 different fuel pumps for the 93 one for vin# w and 1 for v I have a w can anyone confirm ?? now I've replaced the relay, regulator, fuel pump, filter and injector octopus whats left ????? thanks anyone
    Digga
  • shivers1shivers1 Member Posts: 3
    I just replaced my distributor on our 93 S10 Blazer 4x4. It was hard to start at first then started dieing on the road one day. It wouldnt start. Mechanic said it was getting fuel and fire but woould not keep running. It was the distributor. Runs great now, even has more pick up on highway and passing lanes. Hope this helps you out.
  • shivers1shivers1 Member Posts: 3
    I changed our distributor.. It was hard to start then died while driving.. Got fuel and fire but would stay running.. Runs great now.. ours is 93 S10 Blazer 4x4. How this helps.
  • robd216robd216 Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like your 4WD transfer case is shot. I think every S-10 4WD transfer case goes out around 80K miles.
  • robd216robd216 Member Posts: 2
    Major issues:

    Ball joints (actually the entire front suspension)
    4WD transfer case WILL go bad at somewhere around 80-100K miles
    Fuel pump
    Very poor mileage for a mid-size SUV/Pick-Up

    Minor issues:

    Door hinge pins wear out, causing wind noise
    Stereo speakers tend to cut out after a while
    Vehicle will develop a TON of annoying squeeks after about 50-60K
  • tinkintinkin Member Posts: 2
    Take off the plentium & see if you have gas lying under the plentium. If so see if spider injectors are leaking or fuel lines. This will cause the gas smell & roguh idle. Check the distributor.
  • jdog1804jdog1804 Member Posts: 1
    I had a 90 Ranger that did the same thing... Actually it was an easy fix. Goto the junkyard and get a computer ECM and try that. I spent over $600 trying to get mine running and it was a $35 brain box is all it needed.
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