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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance

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Comments

  • blazerssblazerss Member Posts: 2
    They made them until spring of 2005 and are still available on dealer lots, I spotted one at a dealer here in Buffalo, loaded 2WHD, $24,000 list, buy it for $18,600. Start searching they're going, going ............................
  • blazerssblazerss Member Posts: 2
    I'm retired GM, and yes I'm sure, they closed the Linden,NJ plant this spring. I don't "think" this, I know it. Start by chasing dealers in your area they were closing them out this summer. But I just read your response again and you may very well be right as all I've seen were 2 wheel drive models and the one I follow. My daughter Smart bought a 2003 4 door at the end of the 2003 model year. I'm sorry if I mis-lead you. So you may be "stuck" with a Trail Blazer, but that's not all bad, they're discounting leftovers heavily.
  • majornelsonmajornelson Member Posts: 1
    Sorry im new to this forum and hopefully not too late!
    my 1993 blazer has antifreeze in the oil now at 115K, so I was looking for commonality of this problem when I saw your problem, Last year mine had a whine in the front axle when i was on the highway, At first I thought it was the rice burner next to me, there is a device which engages the front differential to the passenger axle which when using 4 wheel mode, is controlled by a vacuum switch in the transfer case, mine was bad and it was partially engaging the axle when I was in 2 wheel mode, the switch cost me $19 at AutoBarn
  • dschwartzdschwartz Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I have a 93 s10. It was running like the battery was low. I put in a new battery and it will still not start. When I try to turn it over all I hear is clicks.
    Not sure what to do. Anyone have any advice?
    Thanks!
  • rmc3rmc3 Member Posts: 1
    You need to put a fuel gauge on the fuel line. The w model requires around 50 psi, the throttle body engine requires around 11 psi. Last time I did mine the auto parts gal gave me the wrong one.
  • kevlorkevlor Member Posts: 5
    I have this problem with my front axle partially engaging, what I wanted to know if yours worked fine when sitting still shifting in and out of 4wd but when your driving up hill it tries to engage? as soon as I hear it I hit the 4wd button, it quits making noise and ill put it back in 2wd and its fine for awhile. Does this sound like the same thing Thanks kevlor
  • bob101bob101 Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem, whining that approaches a roar, max at 35mph, but is almost gone by 65 mph. It continues to whine when the engine is at low rpm, and the whining is not related to engine rpm. Jacking up either side of the vehicle and allowing both the front and rear tires on one side to rotate does not result in any sound for either side. Breaks are good, tires are good, front wheel bearings are good. Any suggestions?
  • kamoskamos Member Posts: 1
    this will probably be long but here it goes, I am new to this forum I do know cars and stuff but this problem has me spent. I have a 1993 S10 Tahoe Blazer, I bought it about 3 yrs ago and it sat for 2 1/2 . I got a great deal on it and it was in good shape in side and out. Last July I decided to get it taged and on the road, it had a bad battier and ran as if the the emrg. brake was a little, just a little sluggish. Also the fuse for the ING/GAUG was blown. I put a new battier and fuse in and the problem went away. Ran great for 3-4 months, then the ING/GAUG fuse blew (it blows every time a new one is put in and the ING is turned to prestart position) and it started ran sluggish again. and before long the battier was dead. I thought it was the Alternator and replaced it, But fuse was still blowing and it was not charging the battier, I pulled off the battier cable while it was running and it died. Thinking I got a bad ALT I had it tested and it is good, I think it may be a short but can't think of where it might be. I have never seen a short with the fuse out cause these to happen. Any help out there would be greatly appreciated.
  • wright11wright11 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 S10 Blazer and the idle air control valve was stuck and not turning. After cleaning it up I was successfull in turning it, but don't know how much the pintle should be sticking out. Does any one know what the length setting should be on the IAC Valve and the proper method for replacing it or testing it?
  • teresa5teresa5 Member Posts: 4
    Good luck, I had that same problem then the transmission went out, put a new one in and now, the egr valve, we replaced once again, have replaced or cleaned around 20 times since we have had the car, well it stuck open and let oil get in my crankshaft and so now I am looking for a new motor. The motor in them, the side mounted spark plugs, are extremely hard to find and "expensive"....if you know of anywhere I can get one, please forward to me...
  • ak_expeditionsak_expeditions Member Posts: 1
    Cranks, wont start...gets spark and puts once in a while.

    changed fuel filter, fuel pump, throttle position sensor, sending unit and fuel pump relay, checked release valve at engine (pump is pumping fuel)....how much pressure? I dont know, but it is enough to squirt out when i push in the nozzle valve.

    Is there a fuse for the injection assembly I can check before digging any further...also dont have alot of confidence in the sending unit (aftermarket)

    PLEASE HELP!!!
  • thunder2114thunder2114 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2000 Chevy S-10 and it didnt come with an owner's manual does anyone know how to set the clock in it because its off and i want to fix it
  • danny22danny22 Member Posts: 1
    Was doing routine spark plug change then engine would not start.Thought it was fuel filter it wasnt that.Then i changed the starter, it wants to turn over but wont fully engage.Give ay information what so ever if you can THANKS
  • hawggod2000hawggod2000 Member Posts: 2
    I'm assuming your truck has the same radio as mine does. Press and hold the hour button [Hr] until it starts to move. Do the same for the minutes.
  • odiesboneodiesbone Member Posts: 1
    Two Questions, first question when i start my blazer i can hear it idle up and down like crazy, but when i drive it and get on it for about 15 seconds, the remaining drive is ok, it's just when i start it up. the second question is the little orange stick that displays when i am in Drive/Reverse/Overdive etc. is stuck in Park, but i can move the gear shift to the Drive position and it works just fine, but the orange lever shift is stuck, need help before i open everything up. mileage is 168,000, 1991 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4.3L, fuel injected.

    PLEASE HELP!!!
  • kegger88kegger88 Member Posts: 1
    My 97 Blazer suddenly the turn signals do not work, however the 4 way flashers do.....does anyone have a solution for this problem?? I'm having a difficult time even finding the flasher!! This is a HUGE pain!! Thanks for any help you can give. G
  • markedman729markedman729 Member Posts: 1
    If its the one with cd player should be a hour and min. button in the bottom right hand corner
  • dnaplus2dnaplus2 Member Posts: 2
    The fuel pressiure for the '93 4.3L CPI fuel injection unit is very important. These units require the higher end of the 62-64PSI to open the poppet valves. If you drop below 62PSI it probably won't start.

    Check that first.
  • dnaplus2dnaplus2 Member Posts: 2
    For the PRNDL indicator, you have to remove the small panel under the steering wheel(2 screws) and you will look for a small cable with a clip on the end. This cable(usually made of nylon) could be broken, or it's become 'unclipped' from the housing.
    One end of it is connected to the PRNDL indicator in the dash. The other end of this cable just clips to the right side of the gear select housing drum which is on the steering shaft, just behind the wheel. The housing drum moves with the gear select lever and pulls the cable, which in turn moves the indicator on the dash.

    If you find it and it's not broken, just clip it back onto the right side of the housing, roughly in the 3 to 4 O'Clock position.

    You can adjust it by moving it's position on the housing until all your gears are indicated properly on the dash when you move the shift lever.
  • lbladeslblades Member Posts: 10
    Check your map sensor! I had a simular problem when driving it would act like it was going to stall and never stall it ended up being my map sensor, you can have them plug in and the code should come up if its the map sensor! Hope that helps!
  • lbladeslblades Member Posts: 10
    2.2 is a great engine, with such a light truck it is a lot of power! You wouldnt have pulling power but as far as speed it is great! I have a 2.2 and it is pretty quick!
  • lbladeslblades Member Posts: 10
    You can put some armour all on them to make them look a little better! There are different waxes that have color tints but I have never used them on mirrors or grilles, I do armour all my mirrors and door handles, even the bed liner when I am really ambitios and it looks great! You might try that as a temporary fix until you figure out something else!
  • lbladeslblades Member Posts: 10
    I thought it was 100K that was the first time I had mine changed! Im not sure though! That seems pretty low mileage! But its always better to be safe than sorry! I would say its probably a little early I would suggest somewhere between 50-100 is more appropriate! You should call a different mechanic and not the dealership they always suggest unneeded maintenance!
  • lbladeslblades Member Posts: 10
    My o2 sensor has been coming up on my check engine as long as I have owned my truck and when I went to get it replaced they said there was nothing wrong with it! lol whatever! But you are right it is not a maintenance thing unless you just want to do it! It either works or doesnt and my opinion is dont fix what isnt broken!
  • lbladeslblades Member Posts: 10
    Sounds like a timing problem!
  • lbladeslblades Member Posts: 10
    Dont know about your ac but it doesnt necessarily mean spark plugs my truck did this when the map sensor went out! You should have a code for it if its your map sensor!
  • lbladeslblades Member Posts: 10
    prolly a bad ground somewhere!!
  • mack_mechanicmack_mechanic Member Posts: 1
    Hi,all.I have a 2001 s-10 blazer with an electrical problem.When I start the truck all the lights(head,tail,dash,dome,ect..) blink or flash.It isn't on-off but dims slightly and then gets bright again.It flashes fairly quick.It really isn't noticeable at idle.I am a truck mechanic and haven't ran into this problem on a big truck yet.I was leaning toward a ground or short but hitting a bump dosen't effect the problem.Could it be coming from the alternator?I have checked for past codes and found none.Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • webb3webb3 Member Posts: 5
    got a 95 s-10 blazer 4x4 with vortec v6.i ound the best way to change the stater was to remove the fly wheel cover.4 or 5 bolts the cover slides out and the starter has enough room to slide out.of course this took me an hour and half to figure out!!! chiltons says nothing about taking the fly wheel cover off.
  • fishdudefishdude Member Posts: 1
    Have a 97 blazer. Trying to change sparkplugs. Cannot get wrench onto #3 sparkplug, due to steering column in the way. Do I have to remove column and if so, how?
  • leadaltoleadalto Member Posts: 1
    I have a ’93 S-10 Blazer which was hard starting. It would start sometimes after cranking by just flicking the key to the start position on and off very quickly. Now this trick has stopped working and it will not start at all. By the way, when it did start, it seemed to run OK except that a lot of carbon came out of the exhaust pipe. There is plenty of spark from the coil and at the plugs. After a lot of cranking, there is no smell of gas from flooding. I bought a fuel pressure gauge and connected it to the fitting at the inlet to the CMFI. Turning the key brings pressure up to about 55 psi. Doing it again will bring the pressure up to 60-62 psi. When the key is turned to start, pressure drops to about 40 psi and stays there while cranking (no start). After cranking is stopped, pressure goes back up to about 55 psi. Pressure holds for quite a while and sometimes overnight. Is it normal for the pressure to dip when cranking? How can I prime the engine to see if it will start?. I squirted a little ether into the intake (with the air cleaner hose disconnected) and got a backfire out the intake. If the poppets don’t open, how can gas (or ether) get to the cylinders? What diagnostic test can I do to isolate the problem to the CMFI or the fuel pump? Either replacement is nasty. :cry:
  • 4hourmechanic4hourmechanic Member Posts: 5
    Alright, so I have a few weird issues. I bought the truck a little over a month ago, for only 700, so I am happy. At first I thought I had transmission issues, but I changed the 4wd switch on the dash, and that fixed that. Now, if I go 4wd on the fly, it makes a loud humm, but if I do it at standstill, it is fine. I am going to check transfer case fluid, hopefully that is it.
    My blinkers work, until I go to shift from park to drive. As soon as it moves through the reverse spot, the fuse blows. All my hazards work, as do the lights. Weird. I'm guessing a short somewhere, but any ideas?
    Next problem, my heat works sometimes. This just started two days ago. I can turn my car on, and the blower fan may go on, or not at all. If I turn off, then on, it may or may not work. Weird. Last problem for this post - my temp gauge does not work. ?? Digital dash, about 130k miles, 93 s10 blazer tahoe :) any suggestions.. Thanks
  • canukleheadcanuklehead Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone help! My hood release cable under the dash has snapped. Is there a way to release the hood manually.
  • brandy61546brandy61546 Member Posts: 1
    i purchased a 99 blazer yesterday. the girl i bought it from said it has trouble starting up in the cold. we started it up to drive home. it ran fine..when we got it home....it would not start. we replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, o2 sensors. still no start. then we replaced the fuel filter....it started right up and ran fine. the fuel in the filter was gross. really dirty. we started it 5 or 6 times that night. still no problems. this morning it would not start. the battery cranks, but no spark. any suggestions?
  • robinsondkrobinsondk Member Posts: 2
    I have a 94 that won't start; the fuse for the fuel pump & ECMB was fried, literally melted. I changed it, but the truck still won't start. It didn't blow the fuse again.
    Any ideas?
  • chityshevychityshevy Member Posts: 2
  • chityshevychityshevy Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1990 S10 Blazer 4.3. Its had regular oil changes every 3000 miles. The oil cooler lines have already been replaced. It has about 112,000 mi on it. The motor makes no unusual noises and it runs great. it has lots of power. Out of nowhere it started burning oil. Currently it burns a quart every 100 miles or so. It doesn't smoke and has no other problems. what could cause this besides valves or rings? Thanks
  • robinsondkrobinsondk Member Posts: 2
    Don't know if you still need help, but I'd suspect the oil pump has failed.
  • sweeney6sweeney6 Member Posts: 1
    Have you found out what the problem was with the brake and abs light on? I have the same problem.
  • drglinskidrglinski Member Posts: 4
    You might have to take the grill off to get at it. I had to do that to mine.
  • cmarchetticmarchetti Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem. Did you do it your self and if so how difficult. If you had it done, how much did it run.
  • 4hourmechanic4hourmechanic Member Posts: 5
    Yes, I just fixed that same problem. Try buying a neutral safety switch / back up switch, and replacing it. It was like 10 bucks at NAPA, and it is easy to install. Just drop the two bolts that hold the steering column up, and it is about 2 feet from the steering wheel on the shaft :)
  • 4hourmechanic4hourmechanic Member Posts: 5
    Well, here's an update, replaced transfer case, and neutral safety switch, and that fixes two problems. If I pop the hood and tap on the blower motor, heat works. So last problem, I changed the coolant temp sending sensor, but still no temp on the dig. dash. I know the lights work, because it fills on startup, and then drops. HELP :)
  • sammykrasssammykrass Member Posts: 4
    are you sure thats what it is really getting? I have a 2000 s10 blazer 4x4 and the gas gauge does not work.....It is completely unreliable.....i believe it is a bad fuel sensor. I don't think you should be getting that low gas mileage.....I would recommend checking ur fuel filter, fuel sensors, and airfilter and so on. because under 14 mpg is just bad
  • gabhanjacisagabhanjacisa Member Posts: 19
    1989 S-10 Blazer 4x4 2.8L. I know absolutely nothing about a/c systems. When on defrost or a/c, the compressor starts and stops, starts and stops, etc. When I actually drive the car with defrost or a/c on, the a/c-heater fuse blows; when the car is just idling, the fuse will not blow. I compared this compressor to another car w/good a/c, and in that car the compressor stays on all the time. Question: is my compressor bad, or is the clutch bad, or both, or what?

    Thanks for any help!
  • webb3webb3 Member Posts: 5
    i gotta 95 blazer with the same problems.bought it used with 101000 miles on it in 2004.one month later fuel pump died on pa. turnpike.dealer replaced for 480bucks.before it died it seemed like it was loosing power and i would have to give to much gas pedal to get up a hill.so i put new plugs and wires on it before the pump died.1 month later during one of those tropical storms that came into nc the fuel pump died again without giving a hint that something was wrong.friend towed it back home and we pulled pump out to find the wires from sending unit to pump looked like they were burned.fuel pump under lifetime warranty so got another.wires for sending unit cannot be bought separetely at dealer without sending unit at a cost of 400bucks but NAPA sells the wires for 7bucks?six months later same thing,loosing power up hills rough idle then bang the spider injector went out.bought 1 at salvage yard for 150bucks and installed myself.dealer wanted 480bucks just for the part not including labor.now a little over12 months later while dring texas it started again,only a lttile different.i noticed while cruising at 70 mph when i would start up a hill it would loose power and almost cut off or stall out.when i would floor the gas pedal it would try and pick back up speed but it would take awhile and then i could smell like it was buring rich or something but i never ever saw any smoke from the tailpipe.i could let off the gas a little and it would pick back up but i would loose speed.bottom line was i couldnt pass any body or go up a hill unless i kept my foot in the floor or drove like grandma in the granny lane.also when i would turn it off it wouldnt start back unless it rested for 15 minutes or more.it would turn over real good but no start and bad smell.dealer mech. in tyler tx could find no codes and spent all day and only got it to not start twice.i had fuel pressure and spark both times and the bad smell.45bucks for hotel and 75buck for scan that told me nothing we left and headed for lufkin tx.half way there it started again only worse.done all i could to make to lukin and another gmc dealer.mech gets no codes but suspects the distributor.he pulls it out later on and shows me 2 cracks in magnet on the thing and tells me more than likely my problem.pisser part is they dont have the part on hand and it would be monday before they got one in and this was early friday morning.they ended up getting an aftermarket one from carquest that took a dump after it was test driven for awhile.so they got another one installed.test driven for 30 minutes came back fired up just fine.total for that episode,451bucks.headed out saturday morning for lafayette la.and it done great except for one liitle studder.i thought my plug wires might havr been arcing over some how so i zip tied them away from each other and it seemed to help.i remember the first mech saying i had 2 wires that he thought were leaking on to each other.well i sat a hotel all weekend in lafayette la. and didnt drive much.monday morning headed to birmingham al. i made it to hattiesburg ms. to fill up.cut the peice of crap off and it would not start.imagine my anger and dispare at this time.after just a little bump of starting fluid it fired up.i no,starting fluid not good but at this point i did not care!i made it just barely to birmingham al.where im to pick up a motorhome going towards home.so i hook my tow bar to the motorhome and tow the blazer all the way home. i drive it to the dealer behind my house where they put it on there scanner and find no codes.third mech checks fuel pressure and says pressure is good going to fuel pressure regulator but pressure drops within 5 seconds after cutting switch off.first mech said he noticed the same thing but thought it had nothing to do with stalling or start up.second mech never checked return pressure and told me that it was supposed to stay up for at least 10 minutes or drop within 10 minutes.third dealership at home says it more than likely my regulator going out and it would cost 880bucks to fix.now, really imagine my total frustration!!!all this right at christmas time.well i no when that regulator goes bad it dumps fuel in the intake and floods the whole thing. i drive it back home pull the tuning valve off and look with a flashlight and dentist mirror and see no gas what so ever in the plenum which leads me to think my problem is with the fuel pump, again.fuel pumps under warranty so im not loosing any money going that route just time and frustration.the other reason i go this route is cause all the mechs i talked to on the phone tell me the fuel pump has a valve in it thats supposed to hold the presure when the switch is turned off and mine was dropping in 5 seconds. well its been 2 days and i drove around town for awhile let it idle for awhile to get warm and i drove it to charlotte saturday moring which is about 110 mile round trip and knock on wood, seems ok.advance auto and autozone have started carrying the spider injector regulator for 278bucks.autozone has the intake plenum gasket for 11bucks.the dealership told me that same gasket from them cost 80bucks.fuel pump at autozone cost 98bucks with 1 year warranty.thats about how long a g.m.pump last or less??i have done more and spent more money on this thing than i ever intended to.it has been a test of my patience.if i new then what i no now about this model i would have kept walking by it at the car lot.sorry this has been so long but i think i might have the sister to your blazer
  • toby_pitttoby_pitt Member Posts: 2
    None of the power windows on my 2000 Chevy S10 Blazer work. I checked the 10 amp fuse in the I/P fuse panel and it was fine, but I can not find the 30 amp circuit breaker that the wiring diagram shows. I checked the I/P fuse box and the fuse box under the hood. Any ideas where this circuit breaker is hidden?? or what else may be wrong?? :(
  • dave87dave87 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 87 chevy s10 pickup, regular cab, 2.8L V6 4 speed auto, and it gets really bad gas mileage, around 12mpg, even though i dont accelerate fast or speed. i'm going to replace the air filter, is there anything else i can do to increase mileage? i've heard that covering the the bed can help, and disconnecting the ac. is this true, and if so, how do you disconnect the ac?
  • dgmedmundsdgmedmunds Member Posts: 6
    Having problem with wipers. Grounding terminal on the moter control module was intermitant and I resoldered it. Now I have fast speed availible 100% of the time but the slower speed and delay positions still drop in and out. (Wiper stops mid sweep)--- Fast speed always availible. Were else should I look for a bad connection or ????--seems to work fine except for random drop- outs.
  • dopydogdopydog Member Posts: 4
    how the heck do u remove this thing? i wont to replace it with a chrome one, anyone know?
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