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Comments
I go to fill up my tank the other day and it won't take fuel. The pump automatically clicks off the same it does when the tank is full, but it is not. It was empty and I knew it was because I hadn't filled up in a long time. Then, fuel started pouring back out. It is currently at the mechanic and they said there is a kit that will fix the problem. Well, they bought the kit and it didn't work. They said they are still trying to find the problem and they haven't seen anything like this before. Have any of you heard of this happening or know what the problem may be? Any insight would be very helpful! Thank you!!
Reseated connectors to sensors. No help. Upon reseating computer connectors, lower 2 connectors when pulled out, the weather seal bootie expanded and out of shape. Smelled more gas, took computer off mounts, POURED A WHISKEY SHOT GLASS FULL OF GASOLINE FROM THE COMPUTER!!! Separated the case, the o-ring seal expanded like a spring waiting to get out. Computer boards have sealant on them, gas evidently broke it down into goo. Dried it w/air gun, At least it starts now but still Check Engine Light on. I'm guessing computer is shot, but my concern is more HOW DOES GAS GET INTO THE COMPUTER???? Only possible way is via the wiring harness, anyone else find this? I wonder how many unexplained underhood fires were the result of this?
PLEASE IF ANYONE HAS ANY IDEA HOW TO STOP THE NEXT COMPUTER FROM FILLING W/FUEL (HOW'S IT GETTING THERE?) LET ME KNOW.
Thank You!!!
:sick:
Canufixit
Thanks again.
Regards.
Canufixit
The Injector (prefferably) and/or connector "should" be designed to prevent this - so I'd first look for this as root cause ... For a reason why it is getting into the computer "after" it get by the connector - I had a thought. Either Pressure in the cable from the ejector - or -
If the Computer is well sealed - the air inside will expand and contract with temp difference as it heats/cools - and if it does not have a vent ?? capable of letting air in/out (with not water/ dirt) to equalize the pressure - it might just be using the cable on it's end to do this... So when the air expands in the Computer case - it pushes out the cable - when it contract - the vacuum sucks on the cable and pulls the gas up ??
Fixing the injector connector/leak, to me, is the root cause here - but posssibly adding in a vent in the cable casing may be a possible work around - BUT BE CAREFUL if the gas is actually getting into the cable (pressure from the Injector side cable leak?) - then gas will, in instead of going in to the Computer case, go into the cable and squirt out - FIRE HAZARD .... Remember the injector inside is high pressure !!
To me this should be root caused and the NTSB be notified ..
I suggest you visit a dealer with your results to date (if they were not in the loop) - this should at least free you from any liability should you see the vehicle ..
Canufixit.
So I'm wondering if the "shape" of the tank is incorrect and it does nothave the required pocket of air - and/or the fuel during fill is splashing in the tank into this in tank hose opening - and triggering the fuel autoshut off ...
Also - The tank should Vent (I assume using the same hose??) to allow the air to escape when fueling ... perhaps the vent is too small - or blocked - so you pressurize the tank until it reaches a certain point - then Burps back the gas ???
If there is a "Kit" it must be known to a dealer ??? I'd visit a dealer - tell them you have a possibel fire hazard -and ask them to give it a check and give you a statement on your recipt that says it OK. (as they probably will not whant to do if the issue is real..) But this gets GM in the loop for liability ... Fuel issues should be at least reported to the NTSB if it cannot be resolved ...
Please advise what happens here ....
Canufixit...
Was the vehicle like this when purchased - or did something change ?? If it did not do this originally - perhaps some joker put something in your Gas tank - I'm thinking stuffing in a small Barggie or larger garbage bag ??? This bag will fill with Air / Liquid - may block the vent (May cause the car to stall as well) - and - since liquids cannot compress - the internal trapped bag air will be able to be compress and cause the tank to pressureize and then squirt back under pressure ???
Again - just trying to brainstorm here ....
re: Past problem you had ...
I saw this and thought you might be interested ...
http://auto.consumerguide.com/Auto/Used/reviews/full/index.cfm/id/2247/act/usedc- arreviewshowall/
Air conditioner: The HVAC system mode switch gets stuck in the vent position as oil gets into the control head as a result of a leaking vacuum switch on the transfer case and a redesigned switch is available. (2001-03)
Hi, Does anyone here know if I can put an older 4.3 in my 91 GMC Sonoma. I need to replace my motor. I found a 4.3 L out of an 85 that has been rebuilt, just not sure if it will work.
It seems like any 4.3 L should work, if I just used the long block. With my intake and throttle body.
I'm new to this truck so not sure what will work.
Any help will be appreciated.
Sorry for the late reply - I'm been busy- and besides, not much is going on in this B board since they re-structured ...
My thoughts - and I did do a little research on the web as well ...
First - There are just some things I'll not mess with - and right up there at the tp of the list is the braking system.
So I'd buy approved parts from a reputible source .. The Consequences / cost is just not worth the possible outcome here ..
With that said.... What I found on the web was that there is a balance between the amount of value on heat loss improvement (via the vent holes) and the available surface foriction loss (from the missing material from the holes). I also read that the venting is sometimes only helpful on hot brakes to prevent brake fade. However this must be balanced with the loss of surface friction area during "normal" non- long breaking needs.
If I had a auto I wanted to customize and I was the only passemger - then I might decide to experiment and see the results - but why else?? I'd get, factory or reputable aftermarket or Recycled disks (re machined) - that are designed for the vehicle - and if they happend to have the vents - then it's assumed that the mfg has OK'd the vented style for your vehicle.
Canu
==============
Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation
Bulletin No.: 02-05-25-006B
Date: January 05, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting Surface)
Models:
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style)
1995-2000 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style)
1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10
1995-1999 GMC Sierra (Old Style)
1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style)
1995-2001 GMC Envoy, Jimmy
1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma
1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the correction and warranty information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006A (Section 05 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph). Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.
Cause
The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface.
Correction
Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors.
3. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector.
4. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading should be at least 350 ACmV's.
5. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to gain access to the speed sensor.
6. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub during service.
7. Clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth, ScotchBrite(TM) or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor surface. There should be no rust or corrosion.
8. Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted, replace the sensor.
9. Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats. Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218).
10. When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037).
11. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the sensor is seated flush against the hub.
12. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel.
13. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's.
Now ... I'm just sure that I'll have some disagreement with this post - so let's just say this is my "opinion" and others are welcome to disagree ...
The metalurgy and heat treatment/de stress / tempering of any rotor can be an issue and cause for failure - but it is my opinion the rotor will fail ( warp ) within a certain period of time after initial installation/use / multiple heat / cooling cycles... (i.e. earlier than later after many many miles ...) . However, although rotors are possible to fail much later due to this defect - well into the life of the rotor - I beleive this is the exception and not the rule. Most (if not all) persons I have talked with that had warped rotors - always had had some recent work done - that included removal and re-installation of the wheels.
So where am I going with this ?? Yup - the lug nuts. With the rotors now being weight (thickness) and cost reduced to the min. required thicknesses - not only is it usual that they cannot be re-faced - they are much more prone to warpage from over tightening the lug nuts.
6 months ago I had new tires installed (at a National Tire Chain) and I inquired how they tightened the lugs - for just this reason. They use a very low setting air torque guns - then hand tighten with a hand torque wrench. They said that, prior to this, they had numerous complaints on warped rotors - and to prevent claims back to them - changed their tigheneing process to include the hand torquing ... They originally thought that this would at least ensure they would not not be liable for the issues - but guess what - the complaints stopped as well ...
Ok, Ok, this does not prove much - but It's my opinon ..
I replaced the engine in my kids car a couple of months ago with a rebuilt long block. It came with a 36month/36k mile warranty. The car is a 95 2.2.L but the block would fit many years.
Good luck
I agree-
2 more cents worth (or is that 4 cents now ??)....
Many years ago - When I was in Army Mechanic school - we were always taught to skip a lug / cross pattern tighten. But at the time it was to ensure that the wheel rear face was pulled flush to the drum. Some wheel center holes fit tightly over a circular boss of the Drum in the center - and may hang up if there is rust or other foreign matter int he opening. Also - the cross pattern was to to ensure that the the lugs get tighened evenly. First Tighten all lugs to bottom finger tight - then do the cross pattern twice - once lightly to snug and seat the full wheel - at least once more to tighten ... Also, The Drums had much more meat to them - I rarely heard of a warped drum - (but there ware out of round drums due to uneven wear of the shoes ...) It was common to snap lugs eother when removing - or tightening by hand ..
-Corey
Pls read my sad story of: #1707 of 2018 Re: vibration [hoodlatch] by hoodlatch May 05, 2006 (7:18 pm)
I don't know is it matches the problems your having but it might be worth checking into.
Good luck
Well, I'd not jump to comclusions that it's your rear main seal - just yet .... I'd check the following;
(- I assume you checked that this oil is is not red tranny fluid ...)
As I'm sure you know - Everything that leaks winds up on the bottom of the oil pan /and or/ transmission ...
I'd clean the entire engine / under hood at this point and look / watch daily watch to see if it's not the;
- Valve cover gaskets.
- The oil pan gasket itself.
- Also - years ago the pressure oil senders tended to be on the top of the engines - and they were well know for leaking oil - the oil would leak out the sender and drip down the block to the bottom. So, Don't forget to check the top of the block - and everywhere you can
Obviously engines pick up all sorts of grime and such, and you just can't tell where it's coming from ... The main seals used today usually last well in excess of your mileage (some last almost forever ...).
So, I'd get the whole engine compartment squeekly clean, and then look, watch and wait for a number of days ...
Good Luck !!
Canufixit
I'm not "Sure" where the sender is on this engine - on my old (1960's-1970's) GMs I changed quite a few. Those were on the top rear of the engine (and leaked right where you say the oil is dripping - which is why I made the post / comment)...
The Sender is no more than a pressure switch and I'd say it has to be well under $100 (~ $50 or less ??) . Also, those oils Pressure switches needed a special socket for the a common socket wrench to install - as they were a screwy shape/Diameter - trying to use pliers to install guaranteed yet another leaky sending unit ... As for what's / where is in these engines - I'm not 100% sure ..
Good Luck !!
(If I remember, I'll look in my 2002 service manual and re-post any info I find ...)
Canufixit.
A Question for you (and others) if I may ?? My, purchased new, 2002 GMC Sonoma (now has only 48K mi) has been acting a little strange in the part few months (or may be it's just me being paranoid ??).
The Front end / drive bearings seem to be getting louder - but it seems to come and go. Perhaps it's just age - and the cold in the winter in the NE. USA. One Front bearing was changed about 15K mile ago - and it seems no louder that the other (if for nothing more than a comparison.). The front drive train noise tends to come and go - perhaps with temperature - and perhaps with changes in asphalt ... And, as it's getting older - It's probably just me complaining about an aging truck ... So, my question is - is your front end drive train / bearing, etc. still a quiet as when you had purchased the truck (I assume new ??) .
I did change tires some months ago (to Toyo) and there was a slight difference in road noise - but this issue has been bugging me for about a year. It comes and goes (to my poor hearing) - but I assume if there was something going - it would show itself after a number of months ... Otherwise I have no issues ..
Thanks!
I have a 98 chevy s10 with 83,000 miles on it. the problem is when i start it in the mornings when its cold, it turns over right away, when i try to turn it on when its warm it will crank for about 3 to 4 seconds and start up really rough.
I had a mechanic look at and he told me my fuel pump was bad so i changed that and now im out 500 bucks and no solution to my problem.
Also after it starts up warm and i turn it off then on again right away it will start up fast, but if i let it sit for a couple minutes it wont start right away!
What is wrong with my truck?
A couple dumb thoughts -
- Vapor lock in the fuel lines? (Probably not if the pump is in the tank )
- or more possibly - Try lossening your gas cap - I'm wondering if you are getting a vacuum lok in the gas tank ...
Good luck :shades:
Clark
I blocked up the bottom of the door with wood blocks to support everything while I drove out the old pin. Pops helped me with free advice, holding the droplight, and wiggling the door when needed. The replacement pin and bushing fit perfectly.
The tricky part was getting the spring back in. It would be faster if I had use of a spring compressor but I didn’t feel like renting or buying one. What I did to overcome the lack of a spring compressor was to compress the spring in a vice, took a wrap through the spring with stainless steel wire, and used needle nose pliers to twist the wire tight. That held the spring compressed enough that I could use a screwdriver to get the spring poked back in where it belongs. After that I used a pair of dikes to cut the wire loose and wha-lah, job done.
I was happy to see how well it all went. No skinned knuckles, pinched fingers, cursing, or throwing objects. Now my door opens closes like it should with out a hitch.
We’ll probably do Dad’s S-10 next. I think the total cost for parts (pin and bushing kit) was less than five bucks. Total time for Pops and I from start to finish was probably around 45 minutes to an hour. A technician that does this kind of work for a living could do the same job in half the time. :shades:
As of right now they still seem to work fine - although I have only put about 1000 miles on them since the change, but now I am looking to replaced them anyway's. My question is this - is there any benefit to cross drilled rotors? What's the difference between cross drilled and OEM??? I have found that cost doesn't vary very much and is there a benefit or is it just marketing hype and would I really be able to tell a difference - especially on an S-10?
But since it is only an S-10 (anything over 90 is scary. The whole front end just floats), than I don't really see a reason/need for any more than the standard OEM replacement. Thanks for the info... I think for my purposes I'll stick with the OEM.
Maybe in the future if I ever get around to dropping an LS-1 into the truck, than maybe along with the enging upgrade, I'll do some other upgrades as well to make it worthy of handling that LS-1. That would probably include the suspension and brakes. And at that point I would be the only one driving it.
I had an old 82 Full size Chevy truck that had the motor blow. It had a 350 in it (what the 4.3 is based off of). We found a 77 350 from a Blaze that we were able to get cheap and figured we could just use some parts from the original 350. Come to find out the "original" wasn't really original, but to make a long story short by the time we were done, the "new" motor had a '77 block, 82 heads and '86 intake and carb. After rebuilding the carb (it had been run dry with a propane setup on top of it for 15 years.), it ran beautifully.
So in answer to your question, I think that you should be able to use the older block and use your intake and throttle body. You might have to switch over the front engine cover - i.e. water pump and belt assemblies, if they are set up differently than the 91, but the basic core of the 85 4.3 is the same as the 91 4.3.
That seems to me to be the rear main seal? I don't seem to leak very much - about 1/3 of a quart in the last 1000 miles. So it's not a major problem, but I hate having oil drip becuase now I have to watch where I park for fear of leaving a nasy spot on someone's drive.
I also switched to Mobile One on the last oil change, but I doubt that has anything to do with it. The reason I had the oil changed is I noticed oil collected on the bottom of the pan and since I was almost due anyway, took it in and made sure the plug was replaced. When I had first inspected it, that's where most of the oil was collected and so I surmised that's where my problem lay. But since changing the oil and cleaning the bottom of the engine, I still seem to be dripping.
So now I am in quest of locating and hopefully repairing the leak with out too much hassel or expense.
Anyway, the thing that gets my attention is the oil pressure sender. I have heard rumors and I think I remember seeing somewhere that the 4.3 was notorious for having those leak? Someone had mentioned a while back on this forum to check that, but it was so long ago that I had forgotten until you mentioned it.
I'll start by cleaning the motor and then go from there. I'll not jump to the rear main just yet... I was highly doubtful it was that anyway since I only have 105K on it and no major oil loss...
If it is the oil pressure unit, how difficult is that to change and approx cost???
Some months ago I had my rear U-joint replaced. At first I thought I was hearing things because it was a real quite almost grinding noise that would manifest it self only on take-off. For a couple months I could barely notice it. But as time wore on, it got louder, but still only manifested itself on take-offs. Then it got to the point where I could idle down the street (5 MPH) and hear the grinding....
That's the only thing I can think of since I only have a 2wd. Although when I re-did the brakes a couple months ago, I also repacked the front wheel bearing, but they seemed to be turning fine and making no noise. This was at about 100K and the 1st time I had ever done it. 4wd setup is probably a little different though?
I think that your are right in that if something is going, it's gonna go quickly if you drive a nominal amount of miles. If you don't drive so much, and something is on it's way out and is related to the drivetrain, then it of course might take longer to rear it's ugly head.
The only noise my truck makes is a knock in the steering column that developed after one of my last road trips over rough terrain. It has since dimished a little, but since the steering still works fine, I haven't taken the time to look at it. My oil leak is of more concern to me.
I believe that it is on the passenger side lower corner?? I did go out and look (but with wet snow and such, I am NOT crawling under it to make sure. I couldn't tell from up top.
If all else fails and you can't find it, just pop the lower radiator hose. of course then all the water would come rushing out with little hope of containing it all.
Mattison1 asked: My 98 S-10 blazer is start hard in the mornings and after sitting for more than 30 min. When it is running it runs fine. I have replaced the plugs, had the throttle body ckecked, and had the electrical system ckecked. So far I have found nothing. Any ideas welcome.
Unless you are having the exact same issue and have done the exact same things, I would try just posting your exact issue. That way you can recieve more direct advice instead of more generic advice. So without knowing exactly what it is that you are having a problem with here is some generic advice...
It sounds like it might be either a fuel filter or a fuel pump. I would lean more towards a fuel pump rather than a filter, but try changing the filter first. It is by far cheaper and easier to do and should be done every couple of years or so anyway. See if that helps. You could aslo be losing fuel pressure in the lines. Even with the truck off the fuel lines remain pressurized and fuel delivery to the injector is instant the minute the starter is turned. If you are losing fuel pressure when the truck is turned off, it will take several cranks of the starter and the fuel pump to deliver fuel back to the injectors. Once the truck is running a fuel is flowing, then you're good to go, but the minute you kill the power to the pump (turn the ignition off), then you lose all pressure and you're back to square one. The pump is what maintains the pressure (even when the truck is off) and so it is possible that the pump is allowing the pressure to bleed off over a matter of time. Which would explain why an overnight sit or even a 30 minute sit would induce hard starting.
This is the direction I would point you in. There are a couple of ways you can test this. On your truck (depending on motor size - 2.2 or 4.3. I only know the 4.3) there is a schrader valve on the fuel line next to the throttle body. This is where you can bleed off the fuel pressure (so that you can change the filter with out getting sprayed by fuel. Trust me, if you do change the filter, BLEED OFF THE PRESSURE! It sucks getting sprayed by fuel while lying underneath the truck.) Anyway, to test, pull the dust cap off the valve and stick a pressure gauge (available at an autoparts store like Shucks or Autozone), and check the pressure. Then come back a few minutes later and check it again. It should read about the same. If the pressure is quite a bit lower than the previous reading, you probably have a pressure problem.
You can also test this with out a pressure guage, but you will probably get a bit smelly. At the schrader valve take a container and some rags to catch the spilled gas and hold it by the valve. Depress the pin taking care not to have your face over the valve as you do so to relieve the pressure. Do this immediatly after the truck has been running for a couple of minutes. Long enough to build up the fuel pressure, but no long enough to get the motor so hot that you can burn yourself on everything under the hood. Once all, or most of the pressure is bled off, start the truck again. It should be hard to start. Then let it run for a couple minutes like before and then shut it down. Let it sit for a while and then come back and WITHOUT starting the truck, repeat the process with the rags and container. If you have a pressure problem, there shouldn't be a whole lot of gas spewing out of the valve.
So first and foremost, change the fuel filter. It isn't hard and something you can probably do yourself. By going through the process you will invariably discover whether or not you have pressure in the fuel lines because you should be bleeding off the pressure anyway so that you don't get sprayed with you release the lines connected to the fuel filter.
If you do find that you have a pressure problem, then you might have a bad pump, but not neccasarily. You could also have a bad or loose vacumn somewhere in the that is also allowing pressure to bleed off. From there I'm afraid I am not much help. Changing a a fuel pump isn't hard, but it isn't fun. Depending on your mechanical expertise, you might just want to take it to a shop. They might also be able to run some diagnostics to determine whether it is the pump or something in the fuel lines.