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I shut the truck off, took the cap off and looked at the new roter. It appeared that some of top parts had broken off, but I didn't see any plastic parts or debris anywhere in the cap or under the rotor. The broken of pieces didn't appear to be affecting the performance and after comparing it to the old rotor I determined that there wasn't really anything wrong with it. I looked at the cap and it also looked fine. I put it back together and took it for a test drive. It still clacked-kind of like plastic hitting plastic sound. The truck ran normally. No mis-fires, good power, nothing out of the ordinary except the clacking sound.
I got back home and exchanged the new rotor for the old one and I got the same noise. I am stumped. I checked the wiring to make sure I had wired the new plugs correctly and I had. I also checked to make sure the cap was on tight and it was, except that if I forced the cap back towards the drivers side of the firewall the noise seemed to lessen and when I put my hand on the cap, it felt like the rotor was striking the side of the cap... Do I have a bum cap? Or is it something else? Since it was almost 9 PM before I was decided to quit fiddling with the thing, the auto parts store where I bought the cap was closed. Actually it closed about 45 minutes after I bought the stuff so I was out of luck almost before I started working...
So as of right now I am stuck with what to do. I will take the cap back tomorrow and see if they will exchange it - maybe take the guy outside and have him listen to the vehicle... I hope they can do something if it is the cap. It was almost $50... :confuse: But if anyone has any ideas I am open to them... I just didn't think a simple plug and wire change would turn into such a battle.
There must be a switching valve and maybe a relay somewhere to control the vacuum to the actuator. Anybody know where the clever folks at GM hid it?
Eager for suggestions...
Please help me. Has anyone figured out what the hell is going on with chevy's 4WD system on their S10s. My truck going up hill will begin to make this horrible whinning sound from front end. PLEASE HELP! I have seen many posts saying the same thing. Has anyone figured it out????
I am looking to replace the shocks on my rig. It's a '99 S-10 (4.3L, auto, reg. cab-short bed) with ZQ8 suspension package. I was wondering if anyone here replaced their shocks on their ZQ8-suspended truck and if so:
Which shocks did you use
Where did you get them
Cost
I've checked a couple of places like Rock Auto, Edelbrock, Summit (gateway from the Edelbrock site) and GMPartsDirect but it they are hella-expensive (especially if I go with the AC Delco replacements :surprise: ).
Also, was wondering if anyone has replaced the oil cooler lines and if so:
How difficult of a job was it
Any special tools / tricks & tips needed
Specific steps / procedures needed to be followed
Am I better off taking the truck in to have it done
Thanks everyone
JAE
Thanks,
Jeff
The rubber washer from one of the bolts that holds the cab to the frame fell off.
Do you access the bolt from inside the cab? Is it hard to replace the washer?
Well a couple months later, the same exact thing happened. I ordered a new handle and then started doing research to find out what the deal was and this was when I found out that I was't the only one with this problem and someone had designed a simple fix for the problem. They had manufactured a handle out of aluminum that would never fail. And the kicker?? It was cheaper than a new handle from the GM parts dept or anywhere else! So cheap in fact that I ordered one right then and there even though I already had a brand new entire handle mechanism on the way.
The new OEM handle arrived and I just set it aside and waited for the "new" handle to come in. It was just the handle part and not the entire mechanism since only the handle part was poorly engineered in the first place. I replaced just the one part and things have been fine since I did that several years ago.
Fast forward to a couple months ago. I went to use the handle and SNAP! Well the door handle it self didn't appear to be broken but something had snapped. For a while I had noticed the door being kind of hard to open and took a bit of force so I figured that force got to something inside the door. I put off taking a look at it because I didn't really want to mess with it. Today though, I decided to take it apart and see what went wrong. Turns out a piece of the handle mechanism had broken off. (the plastic piece inside the spring on the latch mechanism) As I looked at it, I remembered suddenly that I had a brand new handle mechanism sitting somewhere that I had never used! I ran to find it and luckily I found it. That part itself is amazing considering I ordered that handle probably 4 or 5 years ago and it went through a couple of moves. I'm amazed I was able to find it with out hardly looking for it. I spent more time looking for my ratchet to remove the seat belt. Five minutes later, I had transfered out the plastic handle with my aluminum handle and put the whole thing back together and my door works!
I say those years because it might be easier to find a low mile vehicle in good shape the newer you go. Mine is an '01 and has almost 130K on it, but I have seen several a lot older than mine with less miles. These are stout little vehicles if you stick with the 2wd. The 4wd isn't bad, but has chronic ball joint and oil filter gasket problems. The model years 1997-2003 are the same mechanically. They use the same basic engine set up and transmission. In 2004, the only S-10 you were able to get was the 4wd crewcab with the ultra short bed.
1994-1996 uses a simpler engine (V6 models) and so there is less electronics involved, but it doesn't have as much power. During the 1996 model year, they updated the V6 and it gained more power and a more complex fuel managment system. All they really did is change heads on it to the Vortec heads and changed the fuel injection system. The block and transmission remained the same although it became electronically controlled. I am not too familiar with the 4 cylinder models as far as reliability is concerned, but they are way down on power, especially when saddled with the automatic and the mileage gain for gas mileage isn't that great, especially with an extended cab. I would stay away from the 4 cylinder at all costs. The motors are rattly and maintenance prone especially once they cross 100K.
So in short, if I was looking to buy an S-10, here is what I would look for. Model years 1998-2003. Extended cab, V6, auto transmission. No Power windows or door locks and you should be happy. That particular combo shouldn't be hard to find in a good used condition since they weren't usually driven as work trucks. It was also a pretty popular combo as well.
The rear shaft appears to be only "2 joint shaft."
This is all off of Autozone web site.
I have not pulled driveshaft yet, want to have the new U joints handy before doing so.
Thanks!
The GMC motorhome was produced by the GMC Truck & Coach Division of General Motors for the 1973 through 1978 model years in Pontiac, Michigan, USA. It was the only complete motorhome built by a major auto/truck manufacturer producing what GMC hoped would be their halo vehicle. Part of the reason this vehicle is so different from other motor homes of the era is that it was not conceived as just a "camper," but as a vehicle for comfortable travel as well. The design was radical for the day with front-wheel drive and a low profile, fully integrated body. At the time (as now), motorhomes were built by recreational vehicle manufacturers on bare frames and drivetrains supplied by a chassis manufacturer. GMC built the bodies and in most cases the interiors in-house, and designed the chassis and drivetrain to create a motorhome enclosure that could be adapted to a range of purposes. Empty shells were supplied to other RV manufacturers for upfitting the interiors and also to specialty manufacturers for a range of custom purposes ranging from mail delivery and mobile training facilities to people movers and ambulances
So far I have replaced the fuel pump and the fuel regulator.
aiuto@att.net
Thanks!