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GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana

1131416181932

Comments

  • dlubindlubin Member Posts: 66
    They had it for a week, we got it back and now it's in the shop again - the gear-lever doesn't line up properly, and the shift interlock doesn't work (so you can pull it out of gear without pressing the brake).

    I'm enjoying the rental Grand Caravan, perhaps too much!
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    I am looking for any info in regards to the power passenger side door, as far as recalls and TSB's go. My door for the last several months would not close on the first try about 35% of the time. It would get 99% closed then stop and reverse. I did not worry about this until today. My wife told me that today on her way home from work the door spontaneously opened while driving on the freeway. Happily my kids were not with her at the time. Now I am seriously concerned about the safety of the door. I would like to arm myself with all the TSB and recall info before I go into the dealer. Thanks to all for any info.
  • lct1lct1 Member Posts: 21
    02 and 03 Recall to replace motor . Door opening on its own might be latch needs to be replaced or aligned. Seems everyone I have talked to that the door opened on its own the latch seems to be the problem. I have had both done to my 02 Venture. Latch due to opening on its own while driving, Motor was recalled for defective cable. Door sometimes will stop in midstream except when at dealer. Check with your dealer for your year about recall or repair. Dirty contacts, dirt in tract, misalignment will cause problems also.
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    Go to: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.c- - fm and search for your vehicle. The full text of the recall is there.
    NHTSA # 01v06700 was the first and
    NHTSA # 01v26400 was a recall of the recall, if I recall.
    Never had a problem with the power door on the 98 Montana. On occasion it will forget it's a power door and must be opened/closed manually. The next engine start it works. There's actually a procedure in the owners' manual on resetting the door but I've never had to resort to using it.
  • montanafanmontanafan Member Posts: 945
    Keep in mind, if you are concerned about the door, just shut it off and use it manually.
  • veestarveestar Member Posts: 16
    I have a '97 pontiac montana(82k) that's making a rattling noise that's seemingly coming from the front of the engine. I've had water pumps make this kind of noise on other vehicles, but I'm not sure on these Montanas. Does a failing water pump on these vehicles make a rattling noise? I've also developed the infamous "Tick At Start Up." Also, I'd appreciate hearing from anyone that's done the lower intake gasket themselves.(Degree of difficulty etc.)
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    "I'd appreciate hearing from anyone that's done the lower intake gasket themselves.(Degree of difficulty etc"
    Changed the lower gasket on a 98 Montana w/97K miles about 2 months ago. The leak was small but visable. The project was more tedious than difficult. The engine has to be rocked forward to give more room to get to the rear area. Push rods have to come out. Every assy and connector has to be removed. You'll need a couple torque wrenches and an assortment of metric/English sockets/wrenches and extensions.
    I'd recommend using the latest release GM gasket and coated bolts. I used Felpros. They looked like the OE gasket. The new release does look different.
    While you have the upper manifold off, the alternator will come out by removing the wiper arm. The thermostat can be replaced. You can check the rear plugs.... you can get to the upstream O2 sensor.
    Fortunately I had access to a service manual that gave me the "courage" to tackle the job.
    If you decide to DIY, email me off-list and I can send a photo of the chain I made to hold the engine rocked forward plus any other tips.
    A comment on the cold start tick. Not sure why but after changing the gasket, the intensity of the tick was lower. Also mine seems to get worse near the end of the 4000 mile oil change cycle.
  • hhua1hhua1 Member Posts: 41
    Refer to msg# 679, 685, 687, 690, 692, 713, 736.

    The 00' Silo 37K miles loud tapping noises last longer, up to 60 secs, when startup cold in the morning. Took to the dealer, let it sat overnight, they can hear the noises.

    The dealer tried replaced the lifters but the noise didn't do away. They disassembled the engine and determined excessive clearance in the piston areas, that the engine required rebuild or replaced with a factory rebuilt. GM Tech came out inspected the engine and approved for a engine replacement.

    The rebuilt seems to doing fine so far. It cames with a three years and 50K miles warrantee.

    I do have GM Major Guard extened warrantee, this has helped a bit, I think.
  • letsgetmikeyletsgetmikey Member Posts: 82
    Hope your rattle isn't like mine...

    What I thought was a bad water pump turned out to be the transmission pump disintegrating to the tune of $1800 for a rebuild...

    Mechanic said he had seen several like mine.

    Mikey
  • jpc47jpc47 Member Posts: 62
    Sorry to hear about your tranny Mickey.
    I have a problem with my wipers. They want to shut off in the full upright position. I'm hoping tommorrow they reset themselves. I have 96000 miles on my 98 Venture, seems to be doing ok.
  • baveuxbaveux Member Posts: 175
    see post 518
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    I took my van inot the dealer today to have them finish up some work. The drivers side power window had its second motor replacement done. The power pass door latch was replaced and rear brakes were replaced along with a wheel cylinder. All of the work was done under extended warranty, my cost was $200 after $50 deductible on the ext warr and one part that wasn't covered. Total bill was just over $1000.
    I have never been a fan of ext warr, but I got a screamin deal on it when I bought the van and this is the second time I've used it. First one was replace the A/c condenser to the tune of $800. So far I have saved about $500 by having the warranty. Guess I got lucky, if you want to look at it that way.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    Is your extended warranty through GM / Chevy, or you used a 3rd party? If so, then which?
    Thanks in advance
    Tomek
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    My ext. warr. is from Mastertech sold through the dealer where I bought the van.
    I didn't really research it before I bought the van because I wasn't planning on getting one.
    I got it for 2 reasons: First it only cost me $800, (I am a lifelong friend with the GM of the dealer so he sold it to me at the dealers cost.) Second, the warranty has a clause that stated I would get 90% of my premium back at the end of the warranty if I did not use it. I figured I couldn't really lose with those terms.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    thank you for the info
    Tomek
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Noticed recently a distinct flickering of the dashboard lights when starting out with the lights on. After about 10 miles stopped doing it.

    Could this be the alternator, voltage regulator or battery - still orignal.

    Any ideas would help, before I go to the shop
  • jeberjeber Member Posts: 91
    anybody have a roof top cargo carrier that they would recommend. My silo has a factory roof rack.

    It appears from a brief google search that these things can go for upwards of $500 + (too much for me) but there is a "Thule Sidekick" for about $200 with shipping...I know Thule makes decent ski/bicycle carriers.

    I don't need a huge one, but do want one of the aerodynamic wedge-shaped rather than a big square-ish box. thanks in advance!
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    We've had a Thule "Weekender" (think that was the name) for 3 or 4 years. Got it locally at REI. Don't recall cost but in the $200 range.
    It's still in good shape.
    No additional wind noise. I did make my own mounting cross bars so it doesn't sit as high off the roof as the commercial cross bar units.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Member Posts: 274
    I bought the boxy kind you don't want for about $100. If it matters, I don't notice any change in mileage when we use it on our Venture. I think maybe the front of the van shoves air so rapidly up & over the roof that the carrier occupies a low-pressure area & doesn't cause much drag.
  • jpc47jpc47 Member Posts: 62
    My air bag light is on. Any ideas as to what or where the problem may be?
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Member Posts: 228
    Try moving the driver seat back and forth. Search for other instances of this problem in this and other GM Minivan forums.
  • cameramattcameramatt Member Posts: 32
    Try looking under the driver seat. Sometimes the connections can come loose by being kick or jolted. It happened to me several times
    when the kids put their feet under the seat.
  • jpc47jpc47 Member Posts: 62
    tried that very thing and it worked at least for now. thanks
  • pete14pete14 Member Posts: 11
    Two years ago I was in the market for a roof top carrier for my Silhouette. I too looked at the Thule and the boxy clam shell version. Then asked myself how often am I going to use this and what modification have to be made to the roof rack to make them fit. I don't mind drilling a few holes for the bolts, but when the bolts are removed will the holes make a whistling sound?

    I ended up with a soft case bag type. We packed it full and drove 2400 miles. The rain never entered the bag even at 75+ mph.I placed a mat between the bag and the roof, so as not to scratch it, and off we went.

    Did not notice it at all during the drive. Plus when we got to our destination it was easy to take off, so you don't look like a tourist.

    Friends have borrowed it too and they love the fact it did not leak and was easier to use and load than the clamshells.

    One piece of advise on the soft bags is don't go cheap. You know what the saying says. But ours was under $80 and is easy to store when not in use.

    Just my 2 cents.
    Good luck
  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    Don -

    I'm also a doityourselfer.

    While my Van of 98k miles is not leaking badly, I only smell coolant occassionally and refil quarterly, I can see the day I'll need to do this repair.

    One concern I had was using the proper gasket and technique to avoid having it happen again. If the factory stuff leaked, I guess the new gaskets are designed better? What type did you use?

    I'd like to get some pictures of the project. Doesn't seem hard but there sure are a lot of parts that have to come off. I also need to replace my spark plugs, so tipping the motor would seem like a good thing to know about doing.

    Thanks,

    DW
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    I'd recommend using the new GM release gasket. There's GM Tech on the Pontiac news group who posted a picture and it is different. If I can find the posting I'll email it to you but it was a month or so ago.
    I used a Felpro gasket that looked like the one that came out of it. At this stage I'm not going to worry about it. The Tech also said GM had released a new coated lower manifold bolt, along with the new gasket. One of the theories was the bolts would back out with thermo cycling.
    If you want to email me off forum, I'll look up the p/n's of the new gasket, which I belatedly found!! Plus can outline the steps I took.
    I found the ng posting:
    "There is a visible difference. Here's a photo of the two gaskets, new one
    is on the left, old style on the right.

    http://members.shaw.ca/ianrmac/Images/DSC00958.JPG

    The difference can mainly be seen in the addition of two metal pellets
    embedded in the gasket around the outer bolt holes. This is so that you
    can put more torque on these four outer bolts. The rubber embedded
    gasket has changed color, whether this actually means anything is
    beyond me. When GM makes changes, they very rarely go into the
    technical data of what exactly they have changed, so you rely on what
    you see visually. Torque on the new gasket is still 15 ft/lbs for the
    inner four bolts, 18 ft/lbs for the outer four bolts. There are now
    new bolts available too, these come with the loctite already on the
    threads from the factory....you just install them and follow the torquing
    procedure."
  • jeberjeber Member Posts: 91
    thanks to all for the info...not familiar with the soft ones, but will check 'em out. Definitely would rather spend 80 or so bucks, rather than 200, on something I'll probably only use a couple times a year.

    Also, wasn't aware some require drilling - that's something I would rather not do
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    I saw one one the soft ones at WalMart over the weekend just browsing thru the automotive dept.
    I believe it was around $69. My first thought on it was "yea right, get where you're going and dry everything out."
    I guess maybe they may be better than that, if people who actually use them report good results.
  • sandyriversandyriver Member Posts: 16
    One more question. Do you know when the new Ventures got the new (ahd hopefully improved) gasket? I bought a 2003. I am wondering if I should anticipate the gasket leak. Thanks.
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    TSB 03-06-01-010 which deals with the new gasket was issued in March, 2003. The 1997 -2003 Ventures is one of several vehicles included in the TSB.. don't have any info when the new gasket actually went into production vehicles.

    for "dirkwork" the gasket p/n is 89017279
  • lct1lct1 Member Posts: 21
    Good question,I read on another site new gasket is on vehicles produced after 2-03. I Am trying to find out if it is possible to tell new from old without taking apart engine. Len
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    I think the date of manufacturer is on the placard that's on the driver's door. The one with all the tire pressure & weight listings, etc. See if your vehicle was produced after 02/03.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    After four years with the original decided to replace. Walmart best bet at $58 plus $5 for disposal on the old. If you have changed the air filter, this is a tad easier.

    Need to remove protective covering over wiper motor. Unscrew the support rod and one screw holding down fuse box on support rod. Rod slides out.

    Disconnect terminals, worth a special spanner, but not too much room. The battery is anchored at the back and that needs to be removed. Move the fuse box and wiring to the right - May need some one to hold out of the way. There is one connection worth disconnecting to relieve stress on wiring.

    Lift battery up from right side and stand on left side to lift out. New one should be lowered in vertically back and lowered into place. Reverse the above procedure. About an hour at most and $30 better off than Sears or Firestone
  • cameramattcameramatt Member Posts: 32
        I've used a Sears hard shell shell for years on my Caravan, Venture, and now my Pilot. It's been a good carrier and they're pretty inexpensive. Make sure you get the brackets with it, the straps tend to scratch the window frames and are not really safe.
        I also have a soft box that I store in the van when not using the hard shell when on weekend get-a-ways, that's because my Wife and Daughters usually do a shopping spree on me and they take up a heck of a lot of room for the ride home.
        I hope that person didn't drill holes in his roof. The clamps go under the cross bars and bolt inside the carrier.
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    You're pretty lucky with your battery. The original in my Venture was less than 2 years old when it died.
    Unfortunately for me, mine died at about the most inoportune possible moment. We were leaving for our anual road trip to Disneyland. I prefer to drive at night while the kids sleep if possible. Well in this case we were going to leave at 2am. Venture wouldn't turn over, wouldn't even take a jump. So I pulled the battery at 2 am, thanked the Lord that Walmart is opened 24 hours, and ran got a new battery. We were on the road by 3:30 am.
  • jeberjeber Member Posts: 91
    I've ordered a Weathertech "soft" style carrier, about $100. 13 square feet in size.

    We'll see how it does.
  • offhamoffham Member Posts: 344
    Having put in a new battery as posted in 813, it was time to tackle the air filter. Decided on a new approach for the 2000 Venture.

    I removed the radiator overflow and put it to one side over the engine. Attached to the support bar is a "device" with pipes. I removed the bar - two screws at the front and one at the very back. Move this over to the left. The cruise control unit is bolted to the body and does not have to be moved. The bar slides out underneath.

    This gives a clear view of the air filter box. Despite the hand book saying you can bend back, I think Chevrolet were dreaming.

    Unclip the airfilter box cover. I found it easier to loosen the large hose which attaches to the air filter cover and lift off. This allows you to clean out any debris.

    I used a Fram Filter CA 7597. The orange rubber surround is quite thick and needs to be seated firmly for the cover to slot back in at the bottom - four tabs.

    I found that it was easier - actually essential to undo the clip that holds the large intake hose to the engine and pull off to the side.

    Once the filter box cover is back on - reconnect the air hose to the cover. This will need some jiggling to get it back on correctly.

    Similary at the engine end reconnect the large hose. Once done resecure the rods and radiator overflow.
  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115
    I too recently replaced the battery and air filter on my 2000. I did about the same thing that Offman did in both cases. Instead of a Walmart battery I bought a Dephi battery, which is who makes them for GM. I have generaly had better luck with GM batteries than the batteries at Autozone/Parts America. Surprisingly it was only $65 and has a 3 year free replacement. I'm sure Walmart batteries are fine, but I get tired of padding their fortune.
  • jeberjeber Member Posts: 91
    I too decided I would move a couple more things out of the way next time I replace. Easier in the long run. Strange, difficult setup for the air filter on these vans. I've changed air filters on probably 15 or 20 different types of cars over the years and its always been the easiest maintenance item...about 30 seconds, maybe a couple minutes, usually no tools needed. Then, the van, which was around a half hour of cursing and swearing in disbelief that they stuck that down under all that stuff the way they did.
  • vr6stressvr6stress Member Posts: 1
    i'm trying to build a site (well the sites built) for a school project...

    it's for minivan owners and it's more of a localized spot in the internet for tutorials and howto's for people who work on their own van or for people who might like to try working on their own van...

    so i guess i'm looking for things that you've done, that i could add to the site...

    i've put in the brake job i did on my van the other week so it's stuff like that i'd like to add. so no matter what the skill level, i could use the info. i plan on doing a a write up on replacing the side mirror

    so if you have something i really could use it...

    thanks
    jon
    minivanmadness.com
  • jeberjeber Member Posts: 91
    went on a long, long, long drive in the 01 silo. from S Colo to Orlando, approx 2000 miles each way, mostly 70 - 80 mph. it's really beautiful "down south" this time of year!

    the cartop carrier was great...it did seem to reduce mpg a little - it was about 25, and it seems highway mpg is normally 26 - 28 +. But we really had that thing loaded up & it had to create a good deal of drag. went through fairly major rainstorm in OK, no moisture got through - so I'd give the thing a "thumbs up" all-in-all.

    van was wonderful, problem-free. nearing 60000 miles now, no sign of the dreaded gasket leak yet (or any other problems).

    no factory entertainment system in the van, but we just took laptop to play dvd movies, games. That was a lifesaver for the kids (and us).

    time for a new set of tires - the crappy ones I have finally need replaced. will get michelin, dunlop, or the like which should be a nice improvement.
  • missedbassmissedbass Member Posts: 48
    Have a 98 Silo with original battery. I figure now is a good time to replace it before summer. Has anyone had problems with the power sliding door after the battery was changed?
  • n7donn7don Member Posts: 188
    Occasionally mine will forget it's a power door but has always started working again after drivng a few miles. Don't know the sequence of what I've done. If all else fails, there's a precedure in the owner's manual on resetting the power door.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    While getting my oil changed at the GM dealer last week, a person came in and was complaining about their radio not working after replacing the battery. The dealer told them that the radio has a security feature and the code would have to be reset. The dealer wanted $35.00 to reset his radio.

    Does this seem right?
  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    I read my owners manual and I put a code on my radio, just for the satisfaction of knowing if someone really wanted a stock GM radio bad enough to steal mine, they would not even be able to use it.

    If you or a previous owner set a code, you would need some sort of factory reset, and given the $/hour rates, $35 is probably reasonable.

    If you do set a code, write it down in the owners manual ( I doubt that gets stolen with the radio) so you or next owner can find it.

    DD
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    Ok, just found the information in my owners manual about the security code for my radio on my 2002 Silhouette. It states that the radio identifies part of the VIN, so I guess that by changing the battery the radio will still recognize that it is in the same vehicle and is not stolen.

    Thanks.
  • scozimscozim Member Posts: 10
    I haven't posted in awhile because things have been going well with our '00 Montana. However, now I can say I'm glad I purchased a warranty when we bought the van last year. I feel I need to thank all who posted on this board for valuable information.

    In taking it in last week I mentioned the coolant had been low a couple of times but there was no fluid on the garage floor. I told the service advisor I was concerned about the gasket. Sure enough it needs to be replaced. At the same time we started experiencing periodic hard shifts in the transmission. Looks like we also need a transmission pressure sensor - or something like that.

    Electrical gremlins seem to be fixed, except for the winter time when it's cold. Then you can't be sure what will happen with the door locks or power windows.

    One final question, though, we have a chirping (sounds like crickets) when turning to the right. The tech says it's the brake pads. I doubt this because it happens when we're not braking - say the road has a little slope and the steering wheel is slightly to the right to compensate. Any clues as to what this might be? Power steering pump?
  • montanafanmontanafan Member Posts: 945
    Brake wear indicator clips will contact the rotor under the pressure of turning, indicating the need for brakes. The noise goes away when braking. Given enough time, it will make the noise going foward. Also many noises, even some that may be normal, tend to show up with the arrival of Spring and driving with the windows open.
  • racerxracerx Member Posts: 8
    Anyone replace one and can tell me where it is located?
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    the pcv valve is on the valve cover on the front cylinder bank. BE CAREFUL when pulling the connecting hose off, it is made of a brittle plastic. I broke mine when changing it. Fortunately, some electrical tape repaired the damage. There is also a bracket (IIRC its for the throttle linkage) that runs directly over the connecting line to the PCV. I would take that bracket off first to reduce the risk of breaking the tube.
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