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Irv Gordon's Classic Volvo
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Comments
Volvo 122S -- well I don't want to discourage you if you HAVE to have an automatic, but that herky-jerky tranny just kills any fun factor. You'd get so bored driving it!
Sounds overpriced for what it is but I haven't seen it. For $3,500 it had better shine and look good inside.
This method allows you to give the pedal good long strokes to get all the air out. .
Another thing...if you've bled and bled and can't get a pedal, you are usually sucking in air somewhere.
I decided to brake down and get the IPD power bleeder. That will keep constant fluid and pressure going into the master cylinder.
I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks again!
Next issue - the speedometer in 1983 tops out at 85MPH. Is there a 120MPH speedometer that will work in that cluster? If so, do you know the part number that would be scribbed on the face? Thanks.
I guess if I were as determined as you, I'd just go to a wrecker with your car (and maybe a photo and a measuring tape) and just hop from one old Volvo to another until you see a possibility....this presumes of course that their majesties at the "salvage emporium" would even LET you in the yard.
Maybe one of those "pick a part" places. Not only might you find a suitable swap, but you'd learn how to take it out on someone ELSE'S car!
That era seemed to take forever when we were going through it, but now that it's a distant memory, it seems like but a blip on the radar screen.
As for that Volvo, did they ever offer a gauge package, which might have offered a better speedometer?
My 89 S-class went to 160 (just a little optimistic). The C43 also goes to 160 (this must be a MB standard) but that car might be able to hit it without the governor.
Back in the day, I had a girlfriend with a Ford EXP saddled with an automatic. It would have been lucky to hit 90 mph. We used to get in an argument every time she called it a sports car. I just could not let it go.
I still kind of chuckle when you hear these young fellows that think any car that does 0-60 in over 6 seconds could not be any fun. They just don't realize how much cars have improved since the days of the Tempo and such.
I'm sure it's not the original engine internals but possibly the original block---unless you throw a rod or have a thin-walled block that can't be rebored, you should be able to get 3-4 rebuilds at least, maybe more. And even then you can sleeve an engine and start all over.
A greyhound bus or Peterbuilt semi hits extreme high mileages, no problem, all the time.
Now for my next problem - We have just finished replacing the deteriorated engine wiring harness, ALL vacuum hoses, wax thermostat and injector seals. While replacing the wiring harness we also removed, cleaned and re installed the intake manifold and throttle body. Prior to these activities we performed a complete tune-up and replaced the timing belt and tensioner. The car starts right up and runs smooth. The problem is that the engine idles at around 2500 RPM (don't know exactly since the tach doesn't work) regardless of operating temperature. The CIS switch on the throttle body is properly adjusted and the idle adjustment screw is backed all the way out. I have tested the air control valve and it does open and close when voltage is applied. The only other thing I check was the connector at the fuel distribution system. When this is unplugged the idle is greatly reduced but still not right.
There probably isn't a silver bullet here, but I have my fingers crossed. My repair manual does give step-by-step trouble shooting instructions but I'm looking to save some time - if possible.
Thanks for all your help!