Are you currently in the market shopping for a new vehicle? A reporter would like to speak with you; please reach out to [email protected] by 10/21 for more details.

Fomoto oil change valve

rlwninerrlwniner Member Posts: 2
edited March 2014 in Pontiac
I am considering purchasing a Fumoto oil change valve to use with my 97 Pontiac Grand Prix. From what I can find out it seems like a pretty good product. Has anybody had any experience with this valve? Thanks RLW


  • gjnbngjnbn Member Posts: 4
    I have just bought 2 Fram Sure Drains at wal-mart. They look to be as easy to use as the fumoto. Also they have a brass cap that screws on valve after draining for extra safety. You might want to check this out, it's a lot cheaper to.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    I have five of them on cars currently. I have not seen the Fram ones but the screw on part of their valve is what I am trying to avoid. Anything that screws on can be stripped leak etc. The fumoto is solid brass, and in life, for the most part you get what you pay for. And, we all know Frams reputation. The fomoto is spring loaded and the lever in a notch so that it cannot move without human intervention. If you do off roading they do have a spring add on feature which prevents a human from moving the lever without removing the spring or whatever it is. This would prevent a branch/brush from doing any movement. If you saw the vavle you would see that the possibility of it opening by itself is about non existent.

    Anyway, I highly recommend them.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonMember Posts: 20,350
    I would be afraid of snapping it off if I hit something.

    I guess these are OK....still, is unscrewing a drain plug once in awhile such a big deal?

    What am I missing?
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    Sorta agree with you. I need to jack up a little anyway or run on ramp so putting on a wrench is not much extra. I'm sure though that the other concern is stripping or not properly tightening the plug. All the cars I do-except one can easily accomodate a torque wrench. I'm probably one out of a hundred that does it.

    Come to think of it though I might try one on my Toy truck which really can not 1accomodate a torque wrench.
  • vwracervwracer Member Posts: 90

    Just wondering how long you have had them. How would they hold up after say 10 or 12 years? Is there a seal or something that could go bad after some time?

  • zr2randozr2rando Member Posts: 391

    and click on the suredrain picture for a better view of the Fram version
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    No seal, ti appears to be a ball bearing type of componenet that moves to seal off the oil. Of my five the longest is one year and it has held up fine, others range from 2 monthes to 9 months.

    As to breaking one off, wel, depends on car and where the plug is in realtuion to frame and how low the car sits. On my Toy whcih is very low the pan and plug sit up high and one would have to dent the frame to hit the drain valve. The lowest hanging is on sons Isuzu Rodeo but that is high off the ground, no offroading and only about 1/2 inch at most is exposed. It extends the plug perhaps 1/2 inch over the normal plug.

    In the past few years I have had the gaskets leak or seep oil with regular plugs as I did not and most oil change places do not replace the gaskets on the plugs and they can leak. I pain when that happens so that is one of the reason I switched. Also, plugs invariably drop into my oil catch pan due to being very hot to handle,. hot oil etc. and the plug goes into the container and messy to get out. so for me no more leaky gaskets or hot oil and plugs to retrieve during an oil change.,

    But, for me it seems to work for most people plugs are fine. Also depends on how many cars you have and how often you change the oil.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    to me.
    Armtdm I noticed that you live in Richmond. I live in Harrisburg and my daughter lives in Oxford NC. I normally go down 15 to 17 to 95S to 85S and then to Oxford.

    Two questions : is there any shortcut around Richmond to jump on 85S? In other words can you comehow scoot around the west side of Richmond without being on 95?

    Second question: We plan on going and coming on weekdays. When is peak traffic over in the morning and evening in Richmond area??. Thanks.

  • 87ranger287ranger2 Member Posts: 13
    Bought my 87 Ranger & the wifes 95 Taurus new & installed the Fumotovalve on both of them. The Ranger has 213,000 miles & has had 17 oil changes. The Taurus has 145,000 miles & 11 oil changes. The Fumotovalves are still working fine.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    With so few oil changes and the mileage you seem to ave about 10-12,000 between changes. Care to enlighten us as to what oil and filters you are using?
  • 87ranger287ranger2 Member Posts: 13
    I've been using Amsoil oil filters & synthetic oil for 22 years. I change the filter & add one quart at 6,000 miles. Then change oil & filter at 12,000. The bottom line is OIL ANALYSIS. When first switching to synthetic the oil should simply be analysed (about 20 bucks) at 10,000 miles, to see how much longer it can safely be used. Once this is established no other analysis is needed. By the way when I changed the valve cover gaskets on the Ranger at 180,000 the heads & covers were clean as a whistle. No sludge at all & it looks like I might be on the way to getting 300,000 miles out of this engine (2.9 liter) before it needs a rebuild. The Taurus (3.0 liter) is still running very strong & should easily go another 100,000 miles. 22 years ago my brother in law (an Xlnt mechanic) told me I was crazy to leave oil in for 12,000 miles & that I should change every 3,000 miles max. To this day he STILL crawls under his cars every 3,000 miles to change the dino juice. Some silly & outdated habits are REALLY hard to break.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
  • 87ranger287ranger2 Member Posts: 13
    Well he does have a birthday coming up in July. Maybe i'll get him a couple of Fumotovalves. He sure likes the C-6 tranny pan with drain plug that I got him a few years ago.
  • joffficerjoffficer Member Posts: 169
    I looked at the Fram and Fumotovalve. Both are brass, but the fumoto looks a lot sturdier. Of course it's almost double the price. I figure if it's gonna be under the car for years I want something that, at least, looks better. I'm not crazy about Fram's hose/opener.... seems like something easy to lose, and messy to store. The fumoto has a valve handle which looks very easy to use, and keeps you away from the hot oil. The Fram also uses rubber O rings... not crazy about them at all. The Fram is easy and cheap to buy. I noticed them at Wal*Mart for $12.95. I've only seen the Fumotovalve online for sale ($22-$26 depending if you want the drain nipple)
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I would like to respond to that post. I have no interest in any of the manufacturers, except as an end user. In fact I WILL NOT USE Fram Filters. They are basically junk, having cardboard internal construction as opposed to the steel construction of any filter made by Champion, which come under many names from $1.97 to over $12.00.

    Having looked at both the Fram and Fumoto valves, I fail to understand your reference to better quality/sturdiness in the Fomotovalve. I own two Sure Drains Valves, and they are constructed of heavy gauge brass, with what appears to be a copper washer for the seal between your oil pan and the main part of the valve, equal to any OEM plug seal. It also comes with torque specs, so you should not strip your drain hole installing it. This is done only once, unlike the continual removal and reinstallation of the OEM plug.

    The only rubber O-ring is a dust seal for the protective cap, and will have no oil pressure exerted on it. It is only for the purpose of keeping dirt out of the valve. It is no different than unscrewing the cap from any bottle you might have in your house, and is easily removed by hand, not tools. It only installs hand tight. There is no external handle as on the Fomoto, to hang up on something and destroy it. The entire part of the Fram outside the pan is about one half inch long and rounded when the cap is in place.

    As for storing the "messy and easy to lose" Fram hose, wipe it off and store it with your funnel. It takes very little space, and is very easy to wipe clean. You can also remove the hose, or cut it's length down as I did.

    As with the Fumoto, you WILL NOT get oil on your hands with the Fram, because the walve does not open until the hose is almost entirely tightened onto the valve, and immediately closes when you unscrew the hose, which is as easy as hooking up your garden hose. The hose will also direct the oil into a container so it does not splatter all over the place.

    Neither is a thing of beauty I would display in a trophy case, but with the dust cap installed, the Fram is a very clean looking installation, and not intrusive unless your drain hole is on the bottom of the pan and hangs below everything else on the car. Anyway, few of my accquaintenances check out my oil drain plug very often. And yes, I got them for $12.47 at (where else) WalMart. Both for less than the price of one Fumoto including shipping, and easy to find everywhere unless you shun WalMart.
  • joffficerjoffficer Member Posts: 169
    I'm going by what I see. I see fram uses a spring to hold pressure on the valve. Any dirt between the seat and the brass body will cause a leak. It looks like the fumoto uses a teflon ball valve. As any plumber will tell you those valves last a long time without wear. Springs on the other hand lose tension..... that's probably why Fram's come with the "dust cap". It is nice to hear Fram uses a brass gasket..... to bad they don't pay as much attention to their filters.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    The fumoto, with the nipple design (an option) permits a hose to be attached as well as I recently did to drain some oil out for a sample. Both seem fine and will probalby outlast the car. Hopefully, competitio will casue Fumoto to drop the price Both are beter then removing the plug. Should be standard from the manufacturer IMHO. That and easy to remove oil fitlers.,
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    by joffficer,

    No offense taken. I hold no stock in either type. I think though if you extrapolate this situation by multiplying two to three oil changes a year by the number of years you intend to keep your car, you will come up with the valve being actuated no more than about thirty times even if you keep your car 10 years. And the spring certainly isn't going to rust or corrode sitting in oil. I am quite sure whatever spring Fram used is capable of 30 uses, just by the obvious quality of the rest of the valve. My bet is that it is not even a Fram manufactured device, as there is a

    website that comes up on google when you search "Sure Drain", which would indicate to me the name is copywrited. They don't have these small valves on that site, but deal in bigger hydraulic valves.

    I also have no problem with Fumoto. I just see no reason to pay double for an item that seems to me to hold no advantage.
  • joffficerjoffficer Member Posts: 169
    it sure won't rust! Although I haven't kept a car longer than 4 years, I plan on keeping this one (hyundai) until the warranty runs out (2012). I would hope the spring would last that long.
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    The fumoto has a spring also, if it loses tension the lever will swing easily. I like the design though. I have four of the fumotos ,need one more may try the Fram.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Well, the lever still would have to come out of the slot to be moved down. Even if tension was gone would the lever come out of the slot it it in, probably not. Also depends how it sits after installation, some of mine are lever upright some are down so that would also make a diff.
  • wtdwtd Member Posts: 96
    What about this drain on a 4x4 that goes offroad? Sometimes I go offroad in fields that have small brush. Couldn't this catch on the lever and move it up and over and allow it to open? This is why I'm hesitant to use it.
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    Just pointing out that both designs have springs with a critical function. There are spings all over the engine , relief valve , bypass valve, valve springs, on and on . I'm not concerned. The fumoto sure cured a dirty job on my Runner, used the one with the nipple and attached a hose to just clear hole in skid plate . Perfect
  • wtdwtd Member Posts: 96
    What about this drain on a 4x4 that goes offroad? Sometimes I go offroad in fields that have small brush. Couldn't this catch on the lever and move it up and over and allow it to open? This is why I'm hesitant to use it.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Fumoto offer a clip on device for off roading that prevents anything from moving it, I believe their web site has the info.
  • zr2randozr2rando Member Posts: 391
    As for the "easy change drain plug" I'd have to go with the Fram version..(I agree that Fram probably does not make it, they only market it..)
    design is less 'catchy', would do better given the concerns mentioned above.
    Don't have to worry about which side the lever ends up on.
    Already comes with a drain tube.
    Both made of brass/copper, seam well made, and would help avoid getting threads stripped on the drain bolt.
    I would only use either one on pans that do not have a drain bolt pointing straight down though, either one sticks out enough to catch, and it only takes once...
  • wtdwtd Member Posts: 96
    For $12.95 I figured I would give it a try. It looks like a pretty well made product. I havn't decided whether to use it on my truck or my wife's car since they both take the same one.

This discussion has been closed.