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Where is the best and cheaper Service Center for wheel alignemnt?
Need some advise about this. Thank you.
Very true as I used to work in a garage years ago.
2) DO you have to change your coolant at 30k or can you go longer ? Seems like a waste. When u do change the coolant do you have to use Toyota genuine coolant ?
2) DO you have to change your coolant at 30k or can you go longer ? Seems like a waste. When u do change the coolant do you have to use Toyota genuine coolant ?
What makes or what led you to believe question 1?
Also, what year is your car? Depending on the year and type of coolant this can be 30K 50K or 100K
I have an 02 Corolla LE with 52k miles. Original Goodyear Integrity tires. I need to replace the fronts they're slipping a bit on wet pavement. Would you suggest replacing with Integrity or is there a better replacement out there. I like Costco tire dept they offer Bridgestone potenza. Please advise.
Happy Holidays to all !!!
Thanks and Merry Christmas!
No.
FWIW our 03 automatic started shifting a little abruptly @ 18K miles. I had the pan dropped, in order to inspect the inside of it for debris, new gasket, refilled with Toyota fluid, and it shifts as new again.
There was little crud in the transmission pan but it made ME feel better to remove what was there. From this point on I'll drain and refill at 15K intervals to keep the fluid renewed.
Bought a new S in November. At 750 miles, the brake pedal started making an occasional clicking noise on release. By 1400 miles it was most of the time and louder. It seemed like it was something hanging up in the pedal or master assembly. After three visits to the dealer and being told it was "normal" (which I knew it was not) they discovered the brake pedal assembly yokes, rods and clips were deformed in some fashion and were binding up, not fully releasing the pressure on the master for a second or two, then it would snap back up.
Replacement of the assembly fixed it - no harm done - but the question remains as to how long this would have gone on before the condition got bad enough that the brakes stayed slightly applied all the time and 1) prematurely wore out the pads/shoes or 2) boiled the juice and left me brakeless!
Anybody else have this problem?
MM
Also: I ocassionally forget to release my parking break (ok ok, i know it happens). It still works and everything, is there any permanent damage that can occur from leaving it on by accident?
I wouldn't expect there to be any more permanent damage from leaving the parking brake on by accident than if you had left it on on purpose. (joke)
First, I assume its a stick. If its an auto, why put the parking brake on at all? I know, the Owner's Manual says blah, blah, blah, but in 130 years of driving, I've never set the parking brake on an automatic. Your choice.
If you drive with it on, the rear brakes drag and heat up - real hot. This could boil the brake fluid, cause brake failure and kill you and others. Once it cools down and condenses, you're back to normal, but stop doing that.
If hot enough for long enough, it could compromise the wheel bearings/grease and twist up the drums, so here again, stop doing that.
As a minimum, the shoes will certainly wear out faster which will cost you money to replace sooner rather than later, so - all together now - stop doing that.
If you had the parking brake really cranked on, you would probably know it right away. Since you've driven around for a while like that not knowing it, I suspect you only pull the handle lightly - probably nothing to worry about. If you have been doing this a lot, have the dealer look at it for you for peace of mind if nothing else.
Is there anything else I should be getting replaced? The Maintenance guide says a bunch of stuff needs to be checked. The cabin air filter seems to be a possibility and people here seem to be talking alot about replacing tranny fluid every 15K -- that seems excessive.
I live in Boston, where I sometimes do make short trips in subfreezing temperatures. So maybe I should get the auto transmission fluid replaced this time.
What says the Manual you get with the car? I fear it says the same like toyota.com :-(
Especially if you keep the warranty you need to follow the rules (even when stupid).
Another one: do i need to take my corolla to a Toyota-shop? Even when it i only an oil change? in order to keep my warranty...
I read (but unfortunatel didn'T find a source on honda.com) the civic has got 10K miles service interval. Since that is my second choice... the service could be the deciding factor.
Talking about oil, why are the oil changes so often anyway? I mean, European toyota have 10K mile changes, VW/Audi , Opel have 20K/2 year miles oil changes (but in the US they sell cars with 5K miles changes). Is the oil cheaper, or the fuel worse?
so what is the interval without risking to lose warranty?
I own a 2001 Toyota Corolla with about 100,000 miles on it, i have not done a lot of maitenance other then oil change on it, and changed brakes
What maintenance is suggested to keep it working.
1, spark plug change
2, flush transmission oil
3 change hoses and rubber belts
what about the struts, do they need any maintenance
ashish
struts come much later
The problem with your 2001 Corolla is compelling indeed, particularly since it is in the 100,000 mile range.
I hope to speak for all respectable mechanics when I recommend the following repair: Go in to the passenger compartment on the right side of the car. Immediately in front of the passenger front seat, like where the passenger's knees would go, there is a hidden compartment with a release latch on the face of it. When you pull that latch toward you and sort of up (not much force is needed), the access door to the hidden compartment will open. Inside this hidden compartment you will find a soft covered book that says "Owner's Manual" or something similar. This book contains much useful information and has a section in it relating to topics of "maintenance" ...............
Excuse me, I'll be right back..........
Anyone:
Keeping a record is not a bad idea either of what you done to know your frequencies.
They used to make those wonderful "at a glance" little books about autos. It was handy to keep all your info in it.
I need to know where the safe jacking points are under the car
(not the slots on the frame sides)....
so I can raise the rear of the car and get jack stands in position
any help or diagram would be great...
Thanks
05_XRS
I know I should check it more often, but it's my wife's car and I just don't think about it when I'm not driving.
anyway, my question is whether or not anyone else's Corolla consumes oil this way...
Thanks!
I just replaced my struts and shocks for the first time on the car. Its got around 170K now.
The car has been great, but it likes oil for the past two years.
I know someone else that had a 99 LE that was using oil much more frequently. It was doing 3 quarts per 1000. She now has a new Scion tC.
In that scenario will the radiator need to be replaced and transmission need to be flushed??
Will the coolant enter into the transmision oil or will the trasnmssion oil enter the cooling system.
I will apppreciate a expert advice on this issue . Thank you very much
I am a novice as far as information about cars is concerned. I bought a corolla 2000 ce last year.
I am hearing a "pulsating" noise from the tires as I drive. The noise seems as if there is one "tick" per rotation of the tyre. It is not very loud but noticeable. I had a minor accident last year where I drove over a stone puncturing my two right tires at the same time. The noise is also coming from the same side.
Can this be a bearing problem or something more serious ?
Thanks
Gulzar
I don't think its too easy for these two fluids to mix nowadays. Back when Hector was a puppy, trans fluid and coolant got mighty close to one another but I'm not aware that they do anymore.
I suppose a serious head-on collision could mix them up a bit but a new radiator would be assumed at that point.
As for the hungry-for-oil cars, any and all cars will burn some oil just from normal use. The residual oil on the cylinder walls as the pistons move up and down will burn some oil each time the cylinder fires. If your cars are burning as much oil that you don't have any left in the oil pan at the end of a service interval, I would recommend that you drop a quart or two in the engine between filter changes. You don't EVER want your engine to be running dry of oil altogether. You may also want to get a quote on getting a new set of rings on the pistons as well as this would most likely solve the problem.
Hope this helps.
Ken
I have a '98 Corolla 5 speed that has the same problem. I can't even go 3,000 miles without refilling the oil. I also park in the same spot every day, and there is no oil puddle, and I never see any blue smoke plumes coming out of the tail. I have brought it to be looked at several garages, and no one can find any leaks or problems. I have been scouring the net trying to find clues. I think I read somewhere that somewhere that some damage may have been done to the engine before I purchased the car (used) about 4 years ago. It was something like the previous owner prob let the oil get too low, and this caused small abrasions inside the engine where the pistons scratched the metal, and now the oil leaks out of this teensy openings and burns off slowly. There is no way to fix it other than getting a new engine - tho it did say that if you use oil with a high viscosity, it could slow the process down. I keep several bottles of oil in the trunk just in case, and I top off the oil all the time. I pray that the car won't die on me, and I think I will replace the car in the next year or so. *sigh*
I stop at a red light and when it turns green I step on the gas pedal, it doesn't go. It doesnt rev or make any noise what so ever. It just sits there and rolls like its on neutral or something. Then if you let go the gas pedal and you press it again its fine. It like i have to press on the gas pedal twice, its like nitrous on an arcade game. I was wondering if anyone see or had thing problem before.
Another thing, has anyone corolla have problem with the power door button not wanting to unlock the doors on the driver side also the passenger side window button not working, the window doesnt want to go up. The car it only 4 years old and its starting to fall apart.
I3000....check your maf sensor you may need to clean it with throttle body spray. its behind your air filter on the air tube facing the master brake cylinder where you add brake fluid. its mounted with 2 screws and a wiring clip is attached to it.
if youre using high octane then reduce to 89 and that will work better. some say the motor was made to use 87 but the manual doesnt say that and it says the research octane was 91. the 87 didnt work well for me when I used it either.
Ive rarely had the same problem with my 01 corolla power locks. my remote securikey wouldnt unlock all the doors a few times too. your window problem may just be because the childproof window button was accidently pushed down without you realizing it.
I changed my plugs @ 68K miles after I noticed the electrodes on the plugs appeared shorter than normal. Although the manufacturer recommends 100K miles between plug changes, I did it anyway. No noticable improvement in fuel economy or performance.
I also flushed out the old brake fluid. This is one item manufacturers don't recommend changing which I disagree with. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and also reacts with metals that make up the braking system. I've found changing the brake fluid every two years enhances the longevity of the seals.
If you have an automatic transmission, change with Toyota brand ATF. It appears that their additive package is better than name brand off the self fluids. To make sure all the old fluid has been removed, have it professionally done. Just unscrewing the drain plug and letting the oil drain out will not remove all the fluid. Around 2/3 of the fluid remains in the torque converter. If you're a shade tree mechanic, you'll have to disconnect the transmission oil return line from the radiator, start the car and place it in drive (ofcourse with the brake on), and watch the oil pump out while replenishing the new fluid via the dip stick opening until the new oil starts pumping out. This is a two man job IMO.
If you don't keep your wheels balanced, you may have to look foward to changing the front and rear wheel bearings one day. A high pitch winning noise will appear as your speed increases.
If you want peace of mind, change the serpintine belt that drives your air cond pump, power steering pump and alternator at around 85K miles.
I use synthetic oil and apparently there appears little wear on my cam shafts thereby eliminating the need for valve adjustment. If you notice a loud tapping noise coming from the engine during idle, you may need a value adjustment.
If you use 87 octane cheapest fuel around like I do, add some fuel conditioner/injector cleaner with every tank refill. This will prolong the life of your fuel pump, keep you fuel injectors clean and provides lubrication for your upper cylinders. I use Redline fuel system cleaner or Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant.
Make sure your battery posts are clean with good contact. As stated in your owner's manual, check all fluids. I prefer changing the coolant at around 50K miles even though the coolant still looks good.
Be happy you own a Toyota. Their cars are becoming more and more maintenance free and are extreamly tough and durable. You should be able to go 200K miles without major problems. Good Luck.