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Regarding mileage (03 CE 5 speed) great in summer, lousy in cold weather. Sulphur farts are much less than last year, so perhaps the gas is getting cleaner.
Very fast idle for several minutes in cold weather might waste a lot of fuel.
Tnx!
Thank goodness, beginning in '03 there is no longer a 3-spd auto. Really they cheaped out badly ever making a 3-spd auto in the 90s. The 4-spd manuals have been gone for 20 years.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
BTW, if you have the car really loaded down at the back, it is possible to bang the exhaust on the speed bump as you come over it - that is not what you mean, is it?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Bought our 03 Corolla in March 2002. Experienced cold start problem first winter (2002-2003)when temperature dropped below -15C. Bypassed the problem by plugging in block heater the whole winter.
November 2003. I said to myself, this is a brand new car, why should I put my 'head in the sand' and pretend all is well? Why should I upgrade the battery to one with more CCA? So I started my pursue for the right solution.
1st visit to dealer (Nov 2003):
They replaced the battery with an identical slightly-used 310CCA battery. This didn't help because cold start problem returned on January 8-9 when the mercury plunged.
2nd visit to dealer (Jan 12):
They said there was a TSB on defective headlight dimmer switch that was draining the battery. The replacement switch didn't solve the problem either. Thanks to the extended cold spell we had recently, they were able to experience the problem first hand consistently.
3rd visit to dealer(Jan 15):
This time they got serious and worked in close partnership with Toyota factory tech/engineer. After working on it for a week, they determined the culprit was the ECU (engine computer) and replaced it. They found no DTC codes. The diagnosis said something like "FC terminal open inside ECU". Bingo! they fixed it! the extended cold spell allowed me to verify that my cold start problem is gone! My car now starts on first short crank!
Lesson learned: Don't just blame the battery, a more powerful battery may simply mask the real problem. I was lucky to have a dealer who got to the bottom of it. Get it fixed before your warranty expires!
the sound i'm hearing is like a rubbing/grinding noise when i accelerate. it's not like a grinding rotor sound... it only happens when i step on the gas. it happens when both turning and driving straight. when the speed increases it turns into a thumping sound (not really a clicking noise). when it reaches about 40 mph it stops.
i took it to a shop and the mechanic lifted the car and said when he turned the front wheel, he heard a clicking sound in the transmission pan. he said the CV boot was fine.
the sound is intermitent but pretty frequent. the brake pads are fine. i think the car needs an alignment because it pulls to the right and when it hits 70 mph the sterring wheel vibrates.
would anyone know what this is... and is it a serious problem. when i first heard it i was thinking cv joint / tie rod... the mechanic thought it was a transmission issue and that i should bring it to a transmission shop.
i really appreciate any feedback anyone has.
thanks in advance
Thanks,
avn
who did you contact at Toyota Canada regarding the smell in your car. I think they need to buy my car too. It not only has a rotten egg smell, but it's getting poor mileage (23 mpg) and the engine runs rough most of the time. My car is a 2004 Toyota Corolla S for your info. It has 16,500 kms on it. It's my first car and so far I have been dissatisfied. If Toyota Canada and/or the dealer don't do anything. They can rest assured that I WILL NEVER BUY A TOYOTA AGAIN! and I'll be sure to discourage anyone from buying one. Anybody with any useful info is greatly appreciated!
my engine seems to vibrate/clatter when cold or under stress (AC on, hard acceleration, etc)
it sounds great when in park and I rev the engine but starts clattering when in drive or reverse.
it gets better when warmed up but sill makes the sound when under stress.
thanks in advance for any info.
I know of no other factors that could help duplicate this problem.
Anyone else hear of anything similar?
Troy
I have a 2003 corolla S with chronically poor mileage and occasional sulfur (aka sewer) exhaust smell. The MPG varies from 26 city to 30.5 hwy (constant figures since i bought the car new; now it has 15000 miles).
I recently scanned the ECU with my new OBD2 interface.
No codes, O2 sensor works well. However, the TPS registers 10.2 % at idle without pressing on accelerator. Engine effort is registered as high as 14% at idle (warm engine). IMO, it should be 0% and couple of percent, respectively.
Can anyone confirm that the TPS settings are wrong for this model?
If so, IMO there is chance that every stinky Corolla out there is stinky because emission control devices are installed at a factory without proper adjustment allowing for rich A/F ratios.
Anyone, please.
Thanks,
Jacek
1. Engine stalls while waiting on Signal 4 times during the past 2 years (couldn't duplicate this at the dealer)
2. Dashboard vibration buzzing sound at about 1800rpm to 2000rpm 30-40mph
3. Gas mailage 26-30 mpg Mix
4. Car pulling to the right side, dealer tried to realign it 1 1/2 yrs ago but problem still exist till now (expecially during acceration)
5. little ticking sound coming out from the left front wheel area during acceration (window all closed)
6. Front brakes need to be replaced (seems early coz i didn't need to change the front brake on my other 98 Civic EX until 40000Miles)
Planning to bring it back to dealer and fix it one shot... but always busy. Will keep you posted
There is no fuel filter to change beginning on the '98's to current. The filter is in the gas tank.
Also, does this Corolla have a timing belt or chain? Just changed the belt in my '96 Civic, not fun spending that much money.
Thanks,
G
In the case of maintenance, I don't think the absolute $ are as relevant as how a Corolla competes with all the other makes in its class for total maintenance burden - and in that sense, it is one of the least expensive cars to own out there. Should be less than a Civic, for example...
The nationwide requirement for low-sulfur fuel will solve this problem, but thanks to the oil-company-friendly people who now populate DC, not until 2006. In the meantime, you can experiment with different fuel brands to see if you can find one with lower sulfur content, though in certain regions, refining monopolies make this hard to do, even across brands.
And contrary to the belief that seems to crop here regularly, this is not a problem unique to Toyota [similar complaints come from Honda owners, and others]...and from my perspective, hardly demonstrates anything about Toyota "reliability".
My wife bought this before we were married. At 59,000 miles we took the car in because of piston slap. Toyota rebuilt the engine, and did pay for a rental car. I can buy one issue with a car.
At 75,000 miles, two more expensive problems. First one - The check engine light came on. After diagnostic, one or both of the oxygen sensors were bad. I figure, $50 each just like my Grand Marquis (which I never had to replace them yet, nor on my 2000 Intrepid, but had seen the list price of the part). Nope, try $150 for one, and $240 for the other, and that is just for the part. I decided we'll get to it soon if it kills the gas mileage.
Second one - the transmission is about the crap out. Started shifting very firmly a couple of months ago - went and got the tranny serviced and the fluid changed. Did absolutely nothing to improve it, and in fact is getting worse. I figure it should crap out on us soon.
Sad to say, I'm more confident with my wife driving my 94 Grand Marquis with 104,000 miles out of town than this thing (never had any engine or transmssion issues, and the car is built like a tank). Most people tell me the Corolla problems are just a fluke, but add in the fact that the paint is superthin and scratches very easily, and the lack of features, and I don't get the fascination with Toyota's.
Her 1990 Corolla was great, but this 2000 model stinks. Also, the Corolla costs more the insure than my 2000 242 horsepower Intrepid R/T. Go figure.
After body work done by a local TOYOTA dealer, I'm back driving my car. But I'm still worrying about the INSIDE MACHINE part rather than the body work, especially the gas tank. Can you tell me where is the gas tank in my car, and usually whether this kind of accident would have impact on the gas tank and anything else? Thanks.
Any advice.
Thanks In advance
Suburban running around should settle at 26-28, and longer highway runs at 30-33. [This is with an automatic transmission.]
Do you solve the problem ? I got the same car and same problem. Please help me.
Thanks,
Steve
I use to commute to work which is just 10 miles away and the engine sees a lot of stop and go traffic and short run and no out of town trips as yet. My corrolla is built at NUMMI and I was wondering if japanese built ones would do any better.
Thanks
Good luck, anyway...
The numbers irct quoted above are right on the money. I heve never gotten more than 31 MPG on pure highway. My city driving is 26-27.
I understand that some people get 40+, but I am not sure how. Most likely MT, very slow driving, no stop signs, extraordinary gas, lean engines by defect, and perheps errors in MPG computing ;-)
I also understand that some people expierience 20 MPG in new Corollas in winter, so you have to balance your experience.
BTW, the thing about MPG improving with a break-in is a myth (IMO). I never saw it in my new cars. On the other hand, the sound of engine (often described as "agrarian") did improve some after first 5000 miles.
Some people reported 1-2 MPG improvement with mobile 1 oil, but IMO, synthetic oil in this engine is an overkill.
Good luck.
Believe it or not there is a difference between J built and locally assembled cars and JD powers have verfied that too. I only have a minor rattle in my car along with the MPG issue not coming close to EPA numbers. Other than that this vehicle has been excellent. If this vehicle is going to give me 26-28 city and 32 highway then I don't think I should have bought this car as one of reasons I bought this car was for the gas mileage. I'll will observe and see what is to be done in the future if it continues to return poor mileage.
Thanks