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Comments
We purchased our first 2004 Corolla LE in November 2003. A loud clicking noise is coming from the back of the car. It sounded like it was coming from the trunk. So, as my wife drove around, I put down the rear seat and stuck my head in the trunk. Noises seemed to be coming from below the rear panel where the rear speakers are located. Is this common? Will the noises go away as the parts "settle" or does somthing need to be tightened? Noises occur only when the car is moving ... don't have to be going over bumps, either.
PROBLEM #2:
We just bought a second 2004 Corolla LE last week. This one is not making the clicking sounds in the back, BUT it has its own distinct "special" noise. This car is making a high-pitched, whistling sound from the front. The noise occurs when we are stopped at a light, in drive (car is automatic), and pushing on the brake. I opened the hood to try and locate the exact location of the sound. It seemed like it could have been coming from the left side of the engine (or the passenger side) near the belts (or black leather bands). Again, is this just a matter of the car needing to be driven for a while ... or a bigger problem that should be checked?
Suggestions are welcome on either (or both) problems. Thanks for your assistance.
WHISTLING SOUND - Try this.
While in Park & after having driven a while to warm up ALL components, open the driver's door to half-way stop and listen.
Put foot on brake, or firmly engage parking brake.
Put tranny in R and listen. No change? O.K.
Now put tranny in D and listen. Whistle starts? Mine does. VERY LIGHTLY press gas pedal to increase RPM slightly (900-1000 vs. 800 @ idle). Whistle stops? Mine does.
I suspect that the tranny is slipping in 1st gear at idle (clutches or bands not FULLY engaged) until RPM picks up. Added "feature": the 1st-to-2nd gear shift is very sloppy. It sounds like 1st gear disengages, the engine 'waffles' for a moment (rpm is being limited by the computer) and then finally 2nd gear engages. I can force a faster engage if I step on the gas just as soon as I hear 1st gear disengage. Note that my 2-3 and 3-4 gear shifts are quick and firm, as they should be. (FWIW, a firm or harsher shift is easier on an AT than a sloppy, "can't feel the shift at all" shift. Reason is, those sloppy shifts indicate that the trans is slipping into gear, in much the same manner as a person with a MT revving the engine then S-L-O-W-L-Y engaging the clutch. In both cases, the clutch(es) is being prematurely worn due to slippage.)
Sniff the fluid on your AT tranny's dipstick. It should smell sweet. If it has a burnt smell or hint of it, those are your wearing-out clutch disks creating that burnt odor. If you're not sure of what you're smelling, open a can of tranny fluid and compare scents.
SUNROOF. We were driving down the road one night when suddenly FLAP FLAP FLAP... The rear support brace had broken away from the glass of the sunroof, so the glass was flapping like a flag in the wind, pivoting on the front attach point. Could your unit be on it's way to the same fate?
LOOSE WINDOWS. Ask your dealer's salesperson to open several new cars on the lot and compare the slop in those windows to yours. Try to find cars that are assembled in different plants (sticker in the driver's door area) for a full comparison. Mine was assembled in Canada, and has only a little slop.
OK - here's a copy of several recent emails on the ROTTEN EGG / SULPHUR / H2S that I received. (FWIW, you can go to http://www.google.com and enter the argument rotten egg sulphur smell OR odor or the argument H2S to learn more about what's happening. A Quick explanation can be found about mid-page at http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/TROUBLE_SHOOTING/exhaust.html )
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Date: 2004/06/09 Wed PM 12:31:46 EDT
Subject: Toyota Sulfur Odor - New TSB & Repair
>
Major development on your Toyota Sulfur odor complaint to the Center for Auto Safety website.
>
Toyota has just issued a series of TSBs reversing its position that there is nothing they will do about it to fixing it for free. We have posted the bulletins on our website at:
http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?scid=119&did=934
>
Clarence Ditlow
Executive Director
Center for Auto Safety
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Clarence -
>
thank you, Thank You, THANK YOU!!!!!
>
Every time I had to visit our dealer this problem was my first complaint. Each time I was handed a sheet telling me that Toyota doesn't consider this a problem, and would therefore do nothing to fix it. Naturally, the dealer wasn't willing to exert any effort to counter the home office.
>
Maybe enough others gave their dealers the same complaint and Toyota finally said, "Enough!" Maybe it was through your organization that Toyota finally saw the light, and smelled the stink. Whatever the case, thanks for being there.
My spouse and I love you.
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You & your spouse are welcome. We got your complaint and others. We contacted the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) about the complaints.. EPA put a little pressure on Toyota & you should get your fix which happens to be very expensive for Toyota. Undoubtedly that is why Toyota tried to say "What problem?"
Tell the world about the Center for Auto Safety. We are good but small. And we can't get our job done without the support and complaints from consumers like you. You can become a CAS member for just $20 at http://www.autosafety.org/becomeamember.php.
Please let me know if you have any problems getting your 2003 Corolla fixed.
Clarence
==========
May I suggest to you, the reader, two things.
1. Write Clarence at <complaints@autosafety.org> and thank him (their group) for putting the pressure on Toyota. Also, pop for the $20 - it's a small price to pay for the fix you'll get.
2. Complain to the dealer's service dept. that you have a rotten egg odor when your windows are open, or your ventilation system's in FRESH AIR mode, and you come to a stop (light or sign) and you get this horrible stink (sometimes), even when no other cars are around. Tell the service dept. that you're using 87 octane, just like the owner's manual says you can (the '04 manual reads the same, and the '04 Toyotas are included in this non-pub'd fix), and the only thing you can conclude is that it's YOUR CAR that's making the stink. Also tell the service writer that you've tried different brands of gas, but almost always get the same results. (FYI, The problem USUALLY happens after the engine warms up. It' being caused by the engine going too rich during deceleration, such as when you approach a stop sign, light, etc. The rich condition is more than one of the catalytic converters - your car has two - can handle, and thus the stench begins.) EVEN IF YOU NEVER NOTICED THIS PROBLEM, have the fix applied. The re-programming of the computer may rectify the/a potential rich-running condition, which - if it's happening - could increase your overall MPG.
Hope this helps.
Another Corolla owner
That explanation makes me wonder if MPG will be adversely affected (lower MPG) after the computer is reprogrammed to (perhaps) not run the engine so lean during straight and level driving. I have noticed that the egg odor isn't as strong (after 13,000+ miles) as it was when we first acquired the vehicle, but then again, the reduced odor may be due to our using a higher octane / better refined fuel as "recommended" on the Toyota dealer's "It's not Toyota's problem so we won't work on it" handout. Oh, well, we'll find out after tomorrow.
WHISTLING SOUND. I've noticed that in very warm weather, the whistling happens for a while after the AT has warmed up some, then disappears after the tranny is REALLY warmed up. During cool weather, when the trans warmed up, the sound was always present during idle after driving a few miles. In both situations, the 1-2 shift is always VERY sloppy, from cold engine to hot.
The reason you want to partially open the driver's door to listen is that the sound seems to bounce off the pavement, then off the door panel, and you can hear it better this way.
SUNROOF. With the sunroof in its closed position, open the sliding inner panel and try pushing up on the REAR of the glass while someone watches from the outside. If you can move the glass up and then down (from the outside) any measurable amount, then I'd guess the bond between the rear steel cross-bar and the sunroof glass may be failing (my situation), so you may want to see your dealer for a warranty replacement.
CG
thanks in advance for any advice as to what it may be.
I have a 96 toyota corolla, automatic. It currently has 106,000 miles on it and has had virtually no problems. I recently noticed that if I go over 68 miles per hour, the engine is very loud. I had it serviced and had everything flushed/filled but this has not solved the problem. Is this loudness a sign of old age or something else?
Thanks
People there who will help you.
Those high miles are a killer. They will affect the value even more than the books say they will.
Anyone else experience this?
I received 2 QCS's since I got my Corolla in the beginning of June. The first one was general and the second asks for details. My suspicious nature tells me that something is up with Toyota quality, so I've decided to hold on to the second survey to see what develops with my car.
On the other hand, in the first survey I wasn't all too generous in assessing the purchase experience. Perhaps Toyota sent me this second survey as result of the answers I put in the first. I don't know.
In your case, if I didn't receive the second survey, I'd call and write Toyota directly. Let them correct the problem.
I was wondering about the quality of the new 05 Corolla's manual transmission. Is the gear box tight and responsive or soft and mushy. I've already taken a test drive and I like the car but all they had was AT. I guess MT's are just not popular in this class.
I've also noticed that no one seems to be getting to the EPA published figures of 40mpg hwy and 32city. One of the chief reasons I am considering this car is because of fuel economy. I know most (all) cars fall short of the numbers, and 33-37mpg is still better than I get in my current car.
And does anyone know of the 05 catalytic converter suffers the same defect as the 04 with a rotten egg smell. Thats all I need 17,000 dollars gone and rotten eggs.
I'm ordering my car from Toyota should I check with my dealer what plant it is being manufactured at?
Is there anyway to buy a car in the corolla's class w/o being disapointed?
MM
Thanks,
Lizzie
for Corolla: 2T1BR3#E#4C312392
for Corolla S and Matrix: 2T1#R3#E#4C836439.
It's really frugal in the gas department. I'm averaging 25 mpg, and being that the engine and components are in the break-in period I'm satisfied with the gas mileage.
It may need a tune up, but on an older 4cyl you should be able to do most of that yourself. I would say a tune up would include, timing, plugs, PCV valve, EGR valve (if its got one), new oxygen sensor (if its possible to change it), and an oil change with some oil made specifically for older engines. After the oil change I would put some of that "Older Engine Restore" in there and see if that helps. Also if its fuel injected then I would also use some Fuel Injector treatment or something similar that you put in your gas tank.
I recently put some engine restore in my POS Oldsmobile and had some success it has regained some of its original acceleration. When was the last time you did this or had it done?
MM
How about throttle cleaning service? I had this service at 15,000 miles and again the dealer was suggesting to have it done but I refused.
When is the cabin filter need to be replaced?
I live in Daly City, anybody who lives around who can suggest a better Toyota dealer?
Curious...pls. advise...thanks
Would you be able to tell me the year of your corolla, and why you needed a new cat converter? I have a 2004 corolla, that gets lousy gas mileage, has vibrations, almost stalled once and stinks. I think I might need a new cat. CAn you give me some info on how you got a new cat converter? THanks for your help
Also I have a question, are the canadian built corollas included? Any thing else that I need to know? Anything that I could do for you? Please let me know! I will be more than happy to help!
Thanks again
Andrew Cramer
2004 Corolla Sport
Second - it is really unusual for a Corolla to require brake pads at this low mileage, but I suppose it is possible depending on driving conditions. But the Corolla's brakes generally last a long, long time. It is even more unusual to have to replace rotors. Usually just turning them is all that's necessary.
You need to get away from this "stealer" and try somewhere else. Also, keep reading and learning about your car - it'll save you big $$.
Finally, you should post questions like this in the Corolla section, not it's own topic.
thank you
Mrshiftright
Host Elsewhere
2005 Corolla Air Conditioning by ejg - The color of your car can make a BIG difference in a/c performance. Most mfgrs don't vary the tonnage (cooling capacity) based on color, but the amount of interior 'heat soak' increases dramatically as the car color shifts from white to black. Too, parking so the sun beats down on the dashboard pumps heat into the interior a/c components (ducts, evaporator, etc.) forcing your unit to work for a while cooling those components down before cooling YOU down. Running in RECIRC mode makes this happen faster because you're not trying to cool down the outside air ONE TIME as it passes through the car and out the exhaust vents buried in the rear fender area (peel the trunk liner back to see these). Keep in mind that when defogging your windshield, you DO WANT TO take in fresh air to rapidly push the excess interior humidity out those exhaust vents. Know also that in partial or total defrost mode, your a/c unit is turned on (even if the dash light doesn't indicate this) to dehumidify the air before blowing it at the windshield.
'05 cat converter by modestmouse - the changes Toyota is making under the TSB are undoubtedly integrated into the assembly line, so you should not be affected, but re-read my post on page 76 to determine how to test for the problem.
lizservo & stinkinrolla - Not long ago I had the (approx. 1200 Toyota-paid dollars) job done. The stink seemed to abate for a while, but recently the CHECK ENGINE light turned on and the smell has returned. I'd guess that the computer reprogramming now looks for the problem to happen. I'll be taking it back to the dealer.
Andrew, my car was built in Canada, per the door jamb sticker (and, you're welcome.) It ticks me off that Toyota provides a fix but won't tell anyone who has complained to a dealer in the past about the fix, so I catch every 2002/3/4 Toyota I can (at traffic lights) and inform them of the problem/'hidden' fix.
Lizservo, I'd suggest that if your car falls in the range spec'd by the TSB, you have the fix installed. Read my post (page 76) to see how to describe the problem to your dealer. If you don't describe it correctly, they (at least, my dealer) won't consider putting the fix on. You MAY have to go back and complain several times before the dealer agrees to fix it.
Corolla won't start after filling gas tank by erins3204 - Suggestion: next time you need a fill, go to the dealer and take a service writer or tech with you to the gas station. (Keep a spare gallon in your trunk, just in case you run too low.) Believe me, they'll believe you if they have to sit with you waiting for your car to start. If they won't ride with you, at least arrange to meet them at a (same brand) gas station when you call to say you need a refuel. If they won't cooperate & you want to 'force' the issue, park your car on their lot in plain view of shoppers. Put a big sunshield-looking signboard INSIDE your windshield stating their non-service. "My car won't start and this dealer won't fix it!!" Set the parking brake & lock your car and go sit on their customer's toilet with a crossword, your favorite magazine, whatever. Pick a busy day - Saturday?? Negotiate through the locked restroom door.
I can't believe that a Wear Rating of 100 equals 4,000 miles (and by extrapolation, a Wear Rating of 440 equals 17,600 miles). Is anyone else seeing heavy wear on their front tires?
If YES, or even if NO, what BRAND of tires are on your Corolla, and what is the Wear Rating embossed on the tire's sidewall? Sure would appreciate some feedback, especially from one or two unbiased tire experts.
Thanks.
I would take it to a third party and have them check it out. They really have nothing to gain and you have nothing to loose. Get a second opinion. And really my question is, how do wheels get bent, and what does that mean anyway? Why to be vague dealer man. If they were "bent" how'd they get bent? Maybe you should tell your dealer to "get bent" HAHA.
MM
Question Re: sulfur smell.
Have you noticed any MPG changes with your TSB fix.
I understand that Toyota reprograms ECU to avoid H2S production. The part I don't understand is if they go from lean to rich (to avoid SO3 accomulation in the cat) or from rich to lean (to avoid H2S release from the cat).
My car has poor MPG as it is now (27/30 city/hwy), I would hate to see it go down (I learned to live with brands lower in sulfur in my area).