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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • hoodyhoody Member Posts: 25
    had a reason to try out the power plug in this car, its the same as the cigarette lighter, I plugged in a hand held vacuum, but it didn't work, thought it was the vacuum, so tried it in my other car, it worked?...... I read the "book", seems you have to have the key in and on acc??????....... why would you need to use a key on acc to have power to the cigarette lighter????...... it was a weird deal cause the damned ding, ding was on the whole time i was using the vacuum, cause the door was open..... just wanted to see what this brings, cause if its a "power source" it should work without having the key in anyway.
  • bittoobittoo Member Posts: 5
    Hello I just bought 2000 corolla. What maintance should be done to keep it well tuned. It has 116KM. I was told Timing belt,spark plugs, and coolant do not need to be changed. Is this correct? I would appreciate any comments.
  • friendly_jacekfriendly_jacek Member Posts: 96
    Could you please look at my post #1547 (couple of posts above)?
    I am trying to figure out whether the sulfur smell fix is worth the trouble. Sounds like yours was not succesfull (was it botched?). I would hate to see MIL acting up and generating extra trips to a dealer down the road. I would also hate to see any drops in MPG.
    Please advise!
  • annieraggedyannieraggedy Member Posts: 1
    Hmmm.....someone told my friend that she can find the exact price the dealer paid for a specific new car by inputing the vin number somewhere on edmunds.com...does anyone know where I can do this on this site? Thank you in advance.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    To my knowledge, there is no such tool here. Perhaps your friend is confused with the Carfax reports? However, those reports give you a history of the vehicle's accidents and major repairs.

    You might try checking out the Prices Paid board (choose from the drop down at left) for an idea of what others are paying. And here's info about Edmunds.com TMV.
  • mbedonombedono Member Posts: 15
    Would appreciate any feedback from members on their positive or negative experience, buying or getting car repaired, with any New Orleans area Toyota dealership.

    Thanks,
    Manny
  • modestmousemodestmouse Member Posts: 53
    I'm a college student who's looking to get a new car so i can have something dependable when I move to a major metropolis.

    I'm trying to buy a new 05 corolla S and I am probably going to get it for 15,500 (the dealer offered 16,900) we will see.

    In any case, I have a 5500 dollar down payment and would only need to finance 11,000 or so. But they won't finance me! My credit score even qualifies for the low 3.9/60months that they are running right now but they still won't budge.

    As a college student I only have a workstudy job that pays about 480/month. I"m having trouble making them understand that I just don't live off those measly paychecks, I also have financial aid that more than supports me out here in the middle of nowhere.

    They want me to co-sign on the loan, but I have more money than my parents combined and they have no credit.

    Anyone had any similar problems? IF so where they resolved. I'm on my last nerve here. Would trying a different dealer be any better? ITs Toyota Corporate thats not financing me.

    Thanks in advance MM
  • holly97holly97 Member Posts: 3
    We have owned eight toyota's since 1978 and currently have the 1988 corolla,1995 camry,1998 corolla, 2002 corolla S and 2004 camry.
    Our 1995 had to have major work for engine sludge after owing for 3 years. Taking owner responsibly we had this fixed and the car now has 245,000 miles. Our 1988 has 277,000 miles but our problem now is with the 2002 Corolla S 3 years later, dealer said it has engine sludging and the cost is around $2800.00 to repair. Should we try an engine de sludge our self? We maintain all our Toyota's and just was floored with this again.
    Thanks, Holly97
  • modestmousemodestmouse Member Posts: 53
    what is engine sludge?

    Are there any TSB's on the subject?
  • holly97holly97 Member Posts: 3
    According to Toyota tech this is when oil becomes a gel. Thinking about trying a product that is injected into PCV valve that I saw in reference to sludging.
  • modestmousemodestmouse Member Posts: 53
    Huh, sounds interesting, let us know how that goes.

    PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilator...). I think.
    MM

    Also, maybe getting my new 05 soon. Like in the next 14days (though I doubt they will finance me). Should I be worried about engine sludge for the 05 is this a common problem with that engine?

    MM
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    I have not heard of engine sludge in Corollas. In fact, there is a whole forum for sludge (do a search for it). In a nut shell, the Camrys and Siennas from 97-02 (or something like that) are more prone to sludge IF you do not change oil and filter regularly. If you do oil and filter changes on time (5,000 miles or 4 months), you will have no problems. I still have not seen one sludged engine's owner come forward with proof of regular oil and filter changes. Anyway, I highly doubt that new Corollas are prone to sludging, even if you do not do regular changes. I monitor other internet sites that are for Corollas only, and Corollas are fine, as are any Toyotas. Just do REGULAR maintenance. If you have sludge, there is no cheap way to fix it now.
  • safetynutsafetynut Member Posts: 5
    We have a 2004 Corolla LE and even when I turn the fan knob to "off" there is still air coming out of the vent. If the controller is on heat, then air comes out through those vents. Is this common on this car or should I take it in? Thanks in advance.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Unless you close off the vents, air will come through simply by virtue of the car moving forward. If you don't know how to close the vents, read the owner's manual. You can also shut off outside air by using the recirculation button. I think this is foolish [ no outside air coming into the car risks the remote but real possibility of exhaust buildup in the cabin ], but suit yourself...
  • santhony1santhony1 Member Posts: 5
    I own a 2004 Toyota Corolla LE with 10,000 miles. I often smell anti-freeze after an idle time of approximately 5 minutes. I have visited the Toyota service department twice with no luck. The anti-freeze level does not appear to be dropping, but the anti-freeze smell continues to be very prevalent. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
  • m4priusm4prius Member Posts: 31
    Check cabin heater/hose...you may have a small leak in heater core (pin hole) or hose connection point?

    Mike
  • bioteacherbioteacher Member Posts: 8
    I bought my son a 2001 Corolla last year. This year, the repair shop told him his motor was on its last legs (said a rod was going) and suggested he take it somewhere to have the engine replaced. The Toyota tech looked at it before and told him that he most likely had a "lemon".

    Does anyone know if Toyota ever had a recall or "secret" warranty on these 4 cylinder engines?
    To have a rod go out at only 64000 miles seems unusual for any car, especially one known for quality as the Toyota. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated....

    thanks!
  • toguytoguy Member Posts: 20
    I've been hearing more and more stories like that of bioteahcer above and I'm starting to get the impression that the Corollas aren't built as tough as they used to be, especially the 1998-2002 generation (I own a 2002 Corolla with only 40k Kilometers).

    I would, therefore, like to ask Corolla owners of that generation who have piled on impressive mileage on their cars (say 100K or more) without major issues to share their experiences. That'll help reassure those of us who own the Corolla and who bought it with longevity in mind, first and foremost!

    Thanks in advance..
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    '99, 68,000 miles - zero problems. Only things replaced - oil, filters, plugs, coolant, battery, wiper blades. Check the internet for other sites dedicated to just the Corolla. I think you'll find the Corolla is still a battleship, as far as reliablity goes. BTW, I change oil and filters at 3,000. I think that you hear about more issues because of sites like this.
  • kkoankkoan Member Posts: 7
    Hello all,

    I hope someone can help me with this issue, it has probably been discussed before but I am a new member.

    Anyways I just bought a new 2005 Corolla CE a couple of days ago, a bare-bones car - no power anything, but I got it for $12,500 out the door. There's really only two things I don't like about the car: it's color (white, and that was the only car they had at that price), and the driver's seat space.

    I am 6'2" with long legs, and I have lousy leg room in the car. Of course I considered that when test-driving it, but I thought at the time that the pros (price, reliability, fuel econmy etc) outweighed the cons (color, comfort). But I do want to find a way to fix the problem with leg room. Even with the driver seat pushed all the way back, I don't have much leg room. I don't think I can really put cushions on the seat to give me more room because my head is pretty close to the car's cieling already.

    I'm wondering if there's anything I can do about it. I'm thinking maybe I can customize it so that the drivers' seat can beat pushed back more (don't know how much that would cost) - I have long arms too but the steering wheel would be pretty far away from me. I'm starting to think I might not be able to fix this problem. I thought about getting a midsized sedan but fuel economy was definitely important to me. I'm pretty much stuck with this car for years so I want to see if/how I can remedy this.

    Looking forward to feedback, thanks.
  • ski46ski46 Member Posts: 24
    You might try using a synthetic oil like Amsoil or Mobil 1. Synthetic oil does not form sludge.
  • mbuchananmbuchanan Member Posts: 3
    Hello: I just purchased a Corolla Sedan '05 and I love the vehicle. The only problem I am having is the seatbelt warning signal for the front passenger seat. When my dog sits in the seat, (she's over the 45# limit) the signal goes off. I've asked the General Manager of the dealership where I purchased the vehicle and the service department of same and both have said it is against the law to disconnect the buzzer. This is all I want disconnected, nothing else. I have tried to fasten the belt and my dog gets tangled up in it.

    Thank you in advance for any assistance you may be able to lend.
  • ski46ski46 Member Posts: 24
    The transmission in these cars is electronic and it has a sensor that detects when you are going down a hill and braking. It then downshifts into a lower gear to aid in braking. It's just doing what it is supposed to do. My brother bought a new Civic and experienced the same thing. He thought there was something wrong with the transmission, there isn't.
  • safetynutsafetynut Member Posts: 5
    I think I stated in my post pretty clearly that I AM closing off the vents with the fan control knob by putting it in the OFF position. I HAVE looked at the owners manual. I don't want an airtight car (I don't believe that is possible), but having cold air blowing on you - either on your face or on your feet is uncomfortable. I am not exactly a teenager and have owned many cars, none of which have done this. Thanks for your "help" anyway.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    ...and I will try again:

    Shutting off the air with the fan control knob DOES NOT STOP OUTSIDE AIR FROM COMING INSIDE THE CAR. If you insist, these steps should work:

    -Set the air DIRECTION control to the face-level vents [this prevents air from being routed to the foot outlets]

    -Individually close the face-level vents by moving the blades to a position that effectively blocks the air. On some models there is a separate air knob that closes each of them completely, on others you have to actually move the blades manually to a blocked position.

    I reiterate that I think this is a potentially dangerous thing to do [drive the car with no outside air coming in for a prolonged period of time], but if that is what you want, the above steps will accomplish it.

    And finally, in any case, why not just adjust the temp control to give the air coming in a little heat, if that is what is bothering you?

    My mother-in-law insists on virtually shutting off the incoming air in her Corolla; whenever I drive it, I have to spend a couple of minutes reconfiguring everything so I don't suffocate. It pains me to put it back the way she wants it, but I know how to do it. She too seems reluctant to just adjust the temp to make the dribble of air that comes in with the fan off a little warmer; I believe it is a pathological problem with drafts in her case - it doesn't seem to matter what the temp of the air is. In any case, try the above steps....
  • ski46ski46 Member Posts: 24
    You did not mention if you had your wheels BALANCED! If not, that is probably causing the vibration (shimmy).
  • shellbertshellbert Member Posts: 2
    Not sure this is the right place to post this, but I hope someone can help point me in the right direction. I purchased a new '05 Toyota Corolla from a dealer in the LA, Calif. area just under a month ago with 2 miles on it. After driving it a bit I noticed a few things that seemed not right, including the fact that the car seemed to vibrate slightly/had a rough idle at stop lights and on the freeway. Something just "didn't seem right" for a new car.

    Today I finally got the time to take it into a Toyota dealer nearer to my home than where the car was originally purchased. Two hours later they called and told me it appeared to have been in an accident! Bolts had wrench marks on the heads, the right fender was slightly mis-aligned; battery, hold down, ground snaps, and headlights had been removed.

    Spoke with my sales rep at the dealer and she told me that I needed to call corporate customer service. I need advice on what my next steps should be.

    Thanks.
  • tjdepere2004tjdepere2004 Member Posts: 40
    Get a copy of the lemon laws of your state, read it and have in hand during your meeting w/ dealership representatives, have phone number of your friendly lawyer very handy, and the phone number of the TV station that does "the discontented consumer we help report" presentation. Hopefully this can be resolved quickly to your satifaction. Do not skip your monthly payment if you have one---yet.
      Attempt to get the confirming dealer of your suspusion[sic] to put their findings into writing for you on their letterhead. Good Luck
  • sequoiasoonsequoiasoon Member Posts: 223
    Does your Corolla have a separate button for re circulating air (sideways U-turn arrow)? Make sure that it it is set to re circulate (light on or lever pushed in that direction). This will close off the outside air. My '93 Corolla has a lever, my '03 Sequoia has a button. If the light is off on my Sequoia or the lever on the Corolla pushed to "fresh" (3 basically straight arrows), air flows all the time even with the fan set to off (which I prefer). Good luck!
  • sequoiasoonsequoiasoon Member Posts: 223
    Try connecting the seat belt by routing it behind the front seat. Should reach no problem and won't be across the seat for dog to get tangled up.
  • smpoolsmpool Member Posts: 33
    I bought my Corolla in Feb 2003. It has 9800 miles. A couple Saturdays ago, I discovered my 2003 CE was running hot and losing coolant. I filled the resevoir 3 times, but the coolant kept disappearing. I took it to my mechanic who found a small crack in the rear of the engine block were coolant was escaping. So I took it to the dealer who says it needs a new engine block. A week later the dealer say a man from Toyota is coming to help with the engine repair because the dealer is having trouble with tolerances of the components in the engine compartment. Has anyone had an experience like this? Is there anything I should be paying real close attention to?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Never heard of anything like this. Sounds like a very unusual manufacturing defect. At the least, I would be demanding a free extended warranty (at least 100,000) on the powertrain, since they have to tear everything apart. You may have to call Toyota customer service if the dealer won't give this to you. Sorry about your bad luck!

    Toyotas are bullet-proof and hardly ever have any problems like this. Obviously, a rare manufacturing error when they made the engine block.
  • pjksrpjksr Member Posts: 111
    Hi, I searched the discussions, but couldn't find a similar post...

    2001 Corolla LE, 41,000 miles, kept outside:

    A friend owns this car. She noticed, and I heard, a "rubbing sound," when she turns toward the left, coming from the right rear wheel. She has had the "rear brakes replaced," but I am not sure what they did, since she lives out of town, not here by my garage. This sound is speed-dependant, always at the same low volume, but increasing in frequency with car speed.

    Could this be the rear bearing? There isn't much else it could be, is there? Then also, on the Corolla, is there a separately replaceable rear bearing, or is the bearing/rear axle hub a single assembly? I have suggested my friend go to Midas/Monroe for a diagnosis.

    Thanks to anyone who knows!

    Pete
  • toguytoguy Member Posts: 20
    The 2 Corollas in our family (a 2002 model -the previous generation- and a 2003 model) have less than 50,000 km (~31,000 miles) each and yet they produce a cacophony of junky noises when they hit a shallow bump or a section of rippled asphalt. Makes me wonder how they'll hold up at 100,000 km.. Mind you, bigger bumps hit at speed on the highway are definitely felt, but don't produce any noises to speak of, which is a relief.

    At any rate, I'm very disappointed with the build quality/solidity of those Corollas, especially after taking a ride on the same roads in a friend's Mazda3, which I found to be absolutely squeak/rattle-free. Granted, my friend's Mazda is newer, but it's still more solid than I remember either of our Corollas being at a similar age.

    Having said that, both cars lived up to Toyota's bullet-proof reliability (despite a rather expensive brake job on my 2002 model at 32000 km, but I drive fast!). It just makes me cringe when I'm passing over a patch of rippled asphalt and find all sorts of rattles/squeaks coming from my car's doors, dashboard and/or suspension! As you might expect, the dealer always "fails" to find any thing wrong with either car.

    Is everybody else experiencing this? I just find it hard to believe I got 2 bad samples!
  • lisascarlisascar Member Posts: 1
    My daughter and hubby lives in the Dominican Republic. They drive a '96 Corolla automatic trans, build in Cambridge, Ontario. The closest dealer is a 4 hour drive. When reverse is selected, the engine speed increases dramatically, making for a potentially dangerous situation. Any clues as to what could be causing the problem?
  • skicengskiceng Member Posts: 1
    I had exactly this problem with my 2003 Corolla LE. It was a rubbing or low vibration from the rear passenger wheel area that increased frequency with car speed. Not dependent on acceleration. Even constant when putting car in neutral or turning off and coasting.

    If that sounds about right, it's the wheel bearing. It's worn down abnormally and will probably get louder - and more likely to create other damage - if you don't do anything. I believe it is a single hub assembly. I got mine replaced under warranty.
  • macedonmacedon Member Posts: 27
    When I got my car, it had a very small chip on the hood. Noticed it when time to take possession. Never would have bought if seen earler. But knew they are responsible repair it.

    Dealer said, no problem to fix. Got work order and went in today. They dab paint on it. It is ridiculous, nothing but a nightmare waiting to happen. Told them it was not acceptable.

    I go in tomorrow to see the General Manager. The Customer Relations Manager implied that the whole hood needs to be painted. (which I agree is the only way to fix it). She mentioned 'sending it out'.

    Paint Forum host advised me to make sure I get a Full Warranty on the re-done paint. But no follow-up posted on the following questions.

    Does anyone know how long a full warranty would be or should be? Never heard of a paint warranty. What if they refuse or only offer a short term or pretend they never heard of it. I expect to have this car at least 10 years.

    This really soured my purchase. I hate Toyota dealerships but love the Toyota. (Got a 2005 Corolla LE in silver streak mica). Of course I'll take photos of hood, roof, inside hood; engine since the paint job cannot 'injure' other parts of the car.

    I am very intelligent but don't know about paint warranties...They think I'm a moron since I purchased wearing ripped jeans and sloppy sweatshirt. So don't want them to try to take me over by pretending it is not possible or get short-changed on the term.
  • carglowcarglow Member Posts: 91
    There should be some $$$ compensaton as the dealership paint job isn't the same as factory paint.
  • modestmousemodestmouse Member Posts: 53
    My car [94' Olds Achieva] was doing the same thing except in drive it was rev'ing way high and made the car jump out of drive unless I had the break depressed.
    It was also rev'ing irregularly when dirving, like jumping up and down for no reason.

    I checked my manual and it said that one problem might be a leaky PCV (positive crankcase ventilator) valve. Well I found the valve and sure enough the rubber elbow connector was all cracked and old, and also the hose the connects to the back end of it had come out! So I replaced the elbow connector and never had to mess with it since.

    That may or may not be the problem. It could be a timing issue, and on a 96' you may still be alble to adjust it. Really though go buy a repiar manual and use the trouble shooting section in the back. There should be a list of problem/solutions.
  • dbsgirldbsgirl Member Posts: 1
    My front and rear brakes were replaced on my 2002 Corolla (67,000 miles) by a local tire company around the end of January 2004. My brakes have squealed ever since. When I took my car back to the tire company in July I was told that humidity makes the brakes squeal. They said that they cleaned and adjusted the brakes and ever since then my brakes sound like they squeal louder. It also sounds like I have a rubbing noise coming from the rear of the car. What's wrong? Does humidity really cause brakes to squeal or am I being taken for a ride by the tire company?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    ...and everything to do with how the brakes were done.

    Front squealing can usually be traced to the improper use, or worse yet, no use at all, of the small amount of lube necessary to allow the pads to move within the caliper, and where the pad actually rests against the piston inside the caliper. Most manufacturers use a proprietary formula for the stuff that lubes the caliper pins and piston, so the wrong stuff [or none at all] can mean that the pads start a high-speed harmonic vibration when applied, and this is the squealing you're hearing.

    In the rear, it can be a number of things, including improperly adjusted drums, wrong springs, or a bad bearing.

    You need to find someone else to look at the brakes - gasp, maybe even an authorized dealer - but certainly somebody other than the shop who did the work. Noisy brakes are NOT NORMAL on this car, period.

    (As a matter of principle, I never take a car I really care about to have the brakes worked on by any shop not affiliated with the manufacturer. You have lots of recourse if an authorized dealer messes things up - not much when done by an independent. If you really know who you are dealing with personally, and KNOW their competence level, of course this advice doesn't apply, but that doesn't sound like what happened in this case.)
  • mujmanmujman Member Posts: 29
    I have a 2001 LE.It has just 42,000 miles and I am hearing a little louder than normal sound from the middle pipe section of the exhaust system, which I think there might be crack in the middle pipe.Does anybody has this problem that early or is there any TSB with exhaust system going bad that earlier? Thanks for the help!!
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    You really should have had a Toyota dealer do the brake work, or at least had someone use Toyota parts. The Toyota parts last longer and you won't have the squealing. By the way, I question having the rear brakes done so soon. I would be willing to bet that the rears had miles left in them.
  • ecko_rollaecko_rolla Member Posts: 1
    i got an old corolla sr ke-35. i took it to a repair shop because of yielding and steering wheel vibrates left and right after it ran over a pothole. they replaced some bushings and welded some support that have gave up from the chassis itself. the car never got a wheel balance after the repair. after few months of driving, the steering wheel vibrated again and this time it vibrated stronger making the whole car shake this always happened at 50mph. ive read topics here regarding steering vibration and came upon wheel balancing and alignment. i think its only applicable to corollas with macpherson(correct me if im wrong) suspension system. the question is what is recommended for old suspension systems.
  • tbennetttbennett Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Corolla S with about 6,000 miles on it. I don't seem to be getting very good gas mileage, at least not what the sticker estimate was when I purchased the vehicle. I am getting about 325 miles on a full tank in the city which is about 25 mpg. While 25 mpg is not bad I believe the sticker has a 30 mpg /city. Any suggestions?

    Thanks.
  • cidviciouscidvicious Member Posts: 2
    last winter and now this one too...i will get up in the morning to start my 92 corolla and all i hear is nothing.the power is there;ive checked the battery and cables.i just dont know.if i turn and hold the key;sometimes it will start.i dont know if this is coinsidence or not.
  • hoodyhoody Member Posts: 25
    hmmm well could be a few things...... like my 88 dodge caravan that kept dyin on me every time i turned right....... after a lot of head scratching and parts, turned out it was a simple deal of tying up the wires from touching the manafold......... sooo...... check your wiring again..... make sure nothing is touching metal...... if not that could be your ignition key isn't making proper contact..... and the ignition may be the problem if the battery has power. just a thought.....
  • cidviciouscidvicious Member Posts: 2
    thanks...ill be sure to check my wiring.but im afraid ill prob be buying a new ignition.
  • modestmousemodestmouse Member Posts: 53
    cidvicious:

    My roomates Nissan had the same problem (dying every time he turned left).

    It turned out to be a bad serpentine belt pully. Every time he turned it would do something to the power steering and cause the car to die. Wierd.

    New Ignitions aren't too expensive, my roomates also been through two on his little sentra. Gah...nissan sux. *chortle*

    MM
  • scorpionzscorpionz Member Posts: 1
    hi all i have a 84 corolla done timing new plugs leads condenser points but on start has a miss as i speed up it (is still there) diminishs does 140ks bit slow on hills as is the a2 1300 i took out fuel filter was full of metal fillings replaced need to know if iit is fuel or electrical also did compression 170 evan ????
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