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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • toyotafan6toyotafan6 Member Posts: 49
    checked my mileage today - got 31.3 MPG (all city driving) - I have a 2001 LE with 4-speed automatic - my sticker stated I'd get 30 MPG city and 39 MPG highway, I've had my car almost 4 years and I have gotten 30 mpg or better probably 95% of the time, just a few times I got 28 or 29 mpg - once I even got 34 mpg - very happy with my choice!
  • beernutbeernut Member Posts: 329
    Just for fun....., my neighbor's little bitty cute wife drives an Excursion. She gets 9.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    I assume your Overdrive is working. Check it by cruising at a constant speed over say 50 and clicking it on and off.

    Random621 has a 5-speed, so no overdrive button. Smile
  • beernutbeernut Member Posts: 329
    Oops. Your reference to the Altima confused me. I confuse easily.
  • random621random621 Member Posts: 3
    Update - my MPG is improving as the car gets more broken in. I'm a computer guy, don't know much about cars, so here is a question some of you might find amusing, but I really don't know.

    Is it likely my driving habit of going running the car at 3000 rpm for 95% of my 1 hour commute is going to cause me more problems then if I were running at 2700 rpm?

    I'm guessing this question is like the computer question I get at least once a month - is it better to shut my computer off at night or leave it on? Which causes more wear and tear. I always respond "hard to say" or "either is ok".
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    Driving at 3000 RPM versus 2700 RPM will increase wear on your car, but in my opinion not enough to notice. Either is well within the normal operating range. If you are worried about wear then make sure to drive gently for the first couple of minutes after start and change the fluids according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
  • beernutbeernut Member Posts: 329
    In my usual manner of making blanket statements with no supportive evidence, I'd say cruising at 3000RPM will make the engine work harder than at 2700, thus wear more - trans, too. MPG suffers at the faster cruise too - a little goodie that airplane designers call "parasite drag". It goes up exponentially with speed. I know I can run 12 or so miles at a 9 minute pace but pushing along at faster than an 8 minute pace tears me up at around 6 or 7 miles.
  • don15don15 Member Posts: 2
    I have a Corolla LE 4spd auto, according to the specifications, Highway =17.8KM/L and City 12.8KM/L. I do 70% Highway 30%Ciy, I should get at least 14KM/L, I get only 9KM/L. I have done about 1000KM and as usual the dealer is not helpful after selling the car. I like to get any statistics even from the US folks, any Canadians with a similar problem????. I use regular gas, they said it was perfectly alright when I inquired. Any thoughts on this are highly appreciated.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    I hope you haven't inadvertently turned off the overdrive, locking the automatic in third gear. This may sound too obvious, but it has already happened to one person I know complaining of poor fuel consumption....
  • don15don15 Member Posts: 2
    No, I haven't turned off the o/d..... I have written to Toyota Canada about this and they still haven’t responded. I guess after you buy you are on your own.!!!! no matter what
  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    I owned 2 Corolla's since 1988 and was very happy with the mileage, not quite what the EPA said, but close enough. My '03 Sentra is a different story, nowhere near what the sticker says. That's my only gripe about the car actually and I've finally learned 2 live with it. Had it checked at the dealer twice now, and always "within specs"!
    My advice, just move on. It's only a car and it does what it's supposed to do, get you from point A to point B. If you truly like the car in every other way, let it go, life's to short!
    Stepping down slowly off my soap box, as my back has still not fully healed since my accident at work 10 months ago.

    The Sandman :-)
  • u2502u2502 Member Posts: 1
    So I have been plagued with Check engine light problems. Every time it has been code 52 which is for the knock sensor. I replaced the knock sensor and the Oxygen sensor (thought it was a code 25 at first) and after a month of the light not coming on, it has come on again with the code 52. I am stumped and so is my mechanic. The other problem that I have been having is that every so often, when I am stopped at a stoplight the engine will briefly idle really really low and then go back to normal. The whole process lasts about 2 seconds. Are these problems related? Thanks so much for your help, I really appreciate it!
  • petewlkppetewlkp Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2005 corolla CE. So far I'm really happy with it and I bet I'll probably stay happy for a long time. My two previous cars were 90 mustang lx 5.0 and 99 intrepid. All I'm gonna say about the intrepid is that I'll never buy a chrysler again. The car had the engine changed twice in the 5 years I had it, a/c compressor stopped working last year and two windows didn't open. Oh yeah, the locks were broken too. My advice to any one is to stay away from the 2.7 engine that chrysler makes. I can't believe they still make those engines and put them in 300's and magnums. As for the Corolla, nothing bad to say. I'm not getting the mileage the car is supposed to get but I'm sure it will get better with time. The car is a 5 speed and pretty quick for a small 130 pony engine.
    My wife is thinking of getting Mazda3. What do you guys think?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    The M3 is smaller inside, makes more noise, rides more firmly, and handles better, in addition to being generally more expensive in terms of actual transaction prices. Nice car for driving around town, but not much of a trip car because of the noise level, and the trunk/back seat can't be compared to the Corolla. Depends, as always, on what you want/need.
  • beernutbeernut Member Posts: 329
    Before we bought our '05 S, a wholesaler friend of mine in Chicago called us with a real nice, real low mileage '04 Intrepid. It was a beautiful car, great price and I wanted it. I called a Chrysler mechanic friend in Newport News for a recommendation and he said to run away from the Chrysler 2.7 as fast as we could - chronic sludge problems leading to no oil flow leading to internal ground steel. We ran fast to the Toyota dealer. The Toyota dealer, as it turns out, kinda sucks, but we love the car.
  • beernutbeernut Member Posts: 329
    Also, we thought the M3 interior was MUCH smaller than the Corolla.
  • paulrlpaulrl Member Posts: 11
    My 01Corolla check engine light come on with code p0171 My mechanic replace o2 sensor the first one from exhaust manifold ,the light still come back on
    Anybody has exp. please help ,my mechanic doesnot know
    Paul
  • vlanman25vlanman25 Member Posts: 49
    I have a 2003 Corrola standard shift and I get at least 40+ MPG highway driving it at a reasonable speed and 30s around town (suburbia). I have 39,000 miles on the car and without a doubt it's the best car I've ever owned including some that cost a lot more. It's never been in the shop for repair of any kind. I hope you find the same to be true.
  • ski46ski46 Member Posts: 24
    Answer to questions #1 - Yes, your mileage will continue to improve and should stabilize after about 3,000 miles.
    Answer to Question #2 - Synthetic oil generally is thinner and slipprier than conventional oil. You might want to check out Amsoil, the first synthetic on the market, before Mobil 1. They make a 0W-30 synthetic oil that can be used year round in cars that require 5W-30. It's a bit expensive, but you can leave it in a lot longer than regular oil. Go to www.amsoil.com for more details.
    Answer to Question #3 - all cars are different and geared differently. When the EPA estimates miles per gallon they are driving the speed limit on the highway,not 75 mph. I have an 03 Corolla and I am using Amsoil 0W-30 oil, I run an extra 2 lbs. of air in my tires and at 65 mph, with the cruise control on, I have gotten 38.5 mpg on the highway.
  • mole1mole1 Member Posts: 3
    Coasting is an extremely dangerous practice, you should be utilising engine braking wherever possible, this saves wear on the brakes and means that you are not entirely reliant on one method of slowing you down.

    If you must coast why don't you just slip the clutch ?.... how quickly do you think you could get the car back into gear if something went wrong ?
  • cray4cray4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 corolla with 141,000 miles. Several days ago I replaced the alternator.Yesterday, the car failed to start. I engine almost turned over. As I examined the engine I saw sparking on the distributor; it moved counterclockwise and was present on each spark plug. Do I have a distributor cap/plug wire problem or is it more serious?
  • corny_04963corny_04963 Member Posts: 10
    We can only see one light pole ahead at night. Is this a normal condition for the Corolla??? We have the base CE. Maybe we should have upgraded to the model with the fog lights.
  • corny_04963corny_04963 Member Posts: 10
    Have had to bring the Corolla in for the check engine light. Came on and went out before I was able to get it in. Came on again Sunday, and of course went out again.

    The Corolla handles great, but I was very surprised to have to bring a new vehicle back in to the dealer so soon. (UInder 1000 miles) Believe it or not I have not had to bring my new GM made vehicles back to the dealer for vehicle problems. The great Toyota reputation sold me, so I will try to believe, but I hope they are able to solve it and perform as well as GM has for me in the past.

    The other annoyance is the very poor low beam lighting at night, Is that normal for a Toyota???
  • corny_04963corny_04963 Member Posts: 10
    Just checked my mileage on a new 05 Corolla CE @ 36mpg with a mix of city and highway miles. I operate the 5 speed manual at 2200- 2300 revs tops. I don't believe it goes much over 2500 even at highway speed. I don't know why you are taching up so high. A real driver would get a manual transmission and learn how to drive!!!!!!!
  • beernutbeernut Member Posts: 329
    I fully agree with the joys of driving a stick and I'm sure you are quite proud to be a member of the exclusive "real driver" club, but with one to two hour commutes in bumper to bumper traffic and/or my wife driving 100 miles per day shuttling kids, groceries, etc. around while eating, talking, writing, yelling and the rest, the automatic becomes a safety and sanity item.

    Its one of the life numbing facts of middle-age.
  • corny_04963corny_04963 Member Posts: 10
    I am sorry I was so hard on you. Please accept my apology. I am 60 years old and have mostly had standard shift cars and trucks over the years. I have had a couple of automatics, but not really happy with them. It's all you can get in a minivan, for example.

    That said, I really don't blame you for choosing an automatic for driving in City Traffic. I am fortunate to live in Maine where traffic is not really a problem, except for the Maine Turnpike on the 4th of July if you are heading North at the Kittery Toll booth.

    It does seem like the RPM's are a lot higher than what I see with the Standard. Of course the fact you are stuck in traffic a lot is going to have a huge impact on your fuel consumption.
  • corny_04963corny_04963 Member Posts: 10
    Update: The dealer adjusted the low beams. Lights were both aimed real low from the factory!!!
  • corny_04963corny_04963 Member Posts: 10
    Update: Dealer adjusted the low beams today, but have to bring it back in for the check engine light next week. Apparantly there was a recent recall of certain engine numbers for computer chip issues.
  • mukka39mukka39 Member Posts: 1
    HELP!

    I've read a lot of posts in which people have noticed a rattle or creak coming from their sunroof when it is either open or tilted, but has anyone noticed a rattle come from the sunroof when it is closed? I am having a DREADFUL time with my 2005 Corolla S sunroof.

    I believe the problem is with the shade. However if i slide it closed or all the way back it still does it. Even if I put pressure on it with my hand. My commute to work is a nightmare. I can't get this sound out of my head. I took the car to Toyota, but they couldn't hear it, and i'll be honest I even drove with the service guy, and it was barely audible. However, it was the first warm day in a while, and later that night when it was considerabley colder the noise was back just as before. Any ideas???

    Thanks
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Take a paper towel or rag, spray it with silicone spray [available cheap at any auto parts store], open the sunroof, and go over all of the rubber surfaces with the silicone [every place where the glass and the rubber seals make contact]. This won't help if it's the cover, but if it's the glass slightly shifting when it gets cold, this may solve the problem.

    The second thought is preventative: avoid sunroofs at all costs. In an era when AC is universal in cars, sunroofs are just a potential source of problems and annoyance. Exhibit A...
  • lu99silu99si Member Posts: 1
    Hi, my 2002 Corolla's engine check light turned on last night on my way home. There're around 109k on it already. I also drive back to office this morning. Everything looks okay: no extra noise from engine and transmission, steering and brake is also not abnormal. Last night I checked the engine oil, coolant, steering fluid, nothing wrong. I also checked air filter, no much dirt in it.

    This is the first time of my 2002 Corolla. Can anybody help me on doing DIY check first since the earliest appointment I can make is next Monday after I called the bodyshops? Thanks a lot!
  • beernutbeernut Member Posts: 329
    Make sure the gas cap is on tight, then drive it for a couple of days.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Keep in mind that after retightening the gas cap, it takes a certain number of engine "cycles" before the system resets itself. A couple of days may not do it - I think it takes at least 10 new starts before the OBD system will clear a fuel cap fault. Be patient.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Could be O2 sensor, cat. converter (hopefully not, they are expensive). Or any number of other emmissions control things. Could be the gas cap not being on, or you need a new gasket for the gas cap. Have you had any other problems with this car ever? By the way, you will be fine to continue driving it, considering you checked everything out.
  • shetiger68shetiger68 Member Posts: 2
    I bought my 2000 Corolla used in 2002. Never changed plugs (can' t find them in the engine-anyone know where they are?). Late last year, car starting acting up-chugging while in idle when first starting or starting from red lights, hesitating slightly when accelerating on the freeway, and the check engine light stayed on a few days. Took it to CarX, who said it was the fuel injectors, cleaned them for $200, and told me it was a design flaw in that particular engine. They said I would have to have repeated injector cleanings for the life of the car to keep it running properly, and to switch to high grade premium gas, plus add a bottle of HEET to every third fill-up.
    The car ran fine for several months, but a couple weeks ago, it started acting up again, though not as bad. I called the local Toyota Dealership service line, and they said based on the description, it wasn't the injectors, and even said they had never heard of any "design flaw" in the engines that require multiple injector cleanings. I told him my husband thinks it's the fuel filter, and the service tech said the filter is built into the gas tank, and designed to not need replacing, not for a very, very long time, if ever. He said it sounds like the plugs, since they've never been replaced, and told me if we do it ourselves, we HAVE to use special Iridium style plugs (at about $12 each) or it can cause considerable damage to my engine, even destroying it long term.
    I called auto parts stores for the plugs, and they confirmed about the fuel filter, but said they had never heard of a regular spark plug replacing a special one destroying any engine, although not spacing it properly can cause engine problems and cause it to not run right.
    Has anyone else had this type of problem with the Corolla? It's been such a perfect car to me until this, we've never done anything else major on it until that, just regular maintenance and tire changes. I hate to think there are "design flaws" in the engine that will be costly for me down the road, but I don't want to part with the car. Any ideas, or suggestions? Am I getting ripped because I'm a woman calling around? For the record, I'm not Mr Goodwrench, but not a dummy either. I've been helping my husband with auto repair and maintenance since we got married 16 years ago, so I mostly know my way around. We are just unfamiliar with this engine. Thanks!
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    You know you're way around, but you cannot find the plugs? Why don't you just let a Toyota dealership do a service on your car? I think you were badly ripped off by CarX because the Corolla engine has no such "design flaw". How many miles do you have on your car?
  • wayne5wayne5 Member Posts: 1
    Two questions about a 98 Corolla:

    1. The Brake light in the dash won't go out. We checked the fluid level and the parking brake switch, both were OK. Any suggestions?

    2. the horn also stopped working on the 98. Fuse is OK, power is there, but no power at the horn. Haven't taken the steering wheel cover off yet due to 2 big Torxx fasteners, and I don't have a driver for them yet. Also any suggestions?

    Thanks for any help you can provide...

    wayne
  • shetiger68shetiger68 Member Posts: 2
    I have a little over 120,000 on there now. I trusted CarX because they were literally across the street for me, and had done several oil changes for me, and had never talked "down" to me. I hate that most places assume I'm going to ask for a doo-hicky or a thing-a-ma-jig. On all my previous vehicles, I had done my own oil changes, radiator flushes, brake changes, standard maintenance like that. But my husband and I got the Corolla, and when he saw the engine, he freaked. He had never had experience with such a computerized, sealed-up engine, and said he didn't want to risk damaging something, so he wouldn't touch anything in there.We had always had older vehicles that we could patch up ourselves.
    I didn't take it to our Toyota dealer because 1) I had most of my regular service maintenance done at CarX, and somehow would have felt guilty taking the work elsewhere. 2) they said if I took it to the Toy dealer, I would have paid 3 times as much.
    I have since learned that not everything that comes from CarX is exactly the truth, though I will not elaborate. It involved a separate matter that happened recently because of a minor car accident. The original damage was because of my husband and some unforgiving midwestern ice, but cost me $700.00, and a couple weeks later, almost the entire front end alignment of the car.
    I am considering taking it to the Toy dealership for the service to the plugs, but was interested in finding out if anyone else had similar problems. I don't think I want to risk a plug breaking off. I had that happen once before on another, older model, and it's a pain to have the broken part tapped out. And I have not tried to locate the plugs on this one; my husband says he has, but can't find them, I feel it would be best if I didn't try to look. I love him more than I want to find the plugs, if you know what I mean.
  • tdbingtdbing Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2005 Corolla and had the same frustration. I took it back to the dealer and hear is what I found out. The Corolla doesn't really have "automatic" lights in the true sense. It has automatic "daytime running lamps" which display at a reduced brightness (about 60%). If you are driving as it becomes dark the system detects the darkness, brings the headlamps up to 100% and turns on the tail lamps and dash lamps. The reason you don't have any dash lights for about the first 30 seconds when you start out at night is because you don't have any tail lamps activated either! :mad: Why Toyota just didn't have the tail lamps activate along with the daytime running lamps I don't understand. :confuse: When I start out at night now I just use the head lamp switch and activate my headlamps manually - I don't want to drive my first 30 seconds without tail lamps - it would be just my luck to have someone run into the back of me and I would be found at fault. Hope this helped.
  • thomasg3thomasg3 Member Posts: 2
    Recently bought a 2005 white Toyota Corolla in Florida. It is Canadian built. When looking under the hood at and around radiator supports there are patches of black paint over the white body paint. Sent email and photos to dealer with no response, took car to dealer and he said didn't know what it was. Have been told it is just a result of the "robot" painting process. Any ideas.
  • pcotugnopcotugno Member Posts: 8
    How's the mileage on your 2005 Corrola S? Are you getting what the sticker said? The salesman told me that most people have told him that they're getting better mileage than listed. I'm cosidering buying one, and have noticed that the mpg listed on the vehicle sticker is 41/32 on the 5 speed. I recently got a Matrix, and have found the mileage a lot lower than what the sticker said.

    Thanks!

    PS my sunroof on my Matrix has no rattling. Hope you get it figured out.
    pcotugno
  • vlanman25vlanman25 Member Posts: 49
    I gotta agree with grandtotal. With 120,000 miles anything could be going but start with a tune up (plugs) from a qualified mechanic, Toyota or other. The plugs on mine are on the top of the engine under a cover. That's a 2003. There are no plug wires.
  • gorollagorolla Member Posts: 1
    My '01 LE locks all the doors 5 seconds after I start it. It didn't do that before I disconnected the battery to clean the posts--I guess it reverted to the default mode. I bought it used, and it does not have remote keyless entry or an aftermarket (or any) alarm system.

    My wife's '03 Camry does this, but there is a whole page in her manual about setting it to lock the doors under different inputs. Nothing in my manual and the Camry procedure does not work for the Corolla. Now I see why they're called POWER door locks. I want control of the doors returned to me! Help, I'm being held prisoner by my own car.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Try starting the engine with the driver's door open. Get in, leave the door ajar, start the engine, then finish putting on belts, closing door, releasing brake, putting in gear. In my mother-in-law's '98 with this feature, this defeats the automatic locking for that cycle of use. Doesn't change the default, though...
  • joanna56joanna56 Member Posts: 2
    Considering purchasing a 2004 Corolla, I'm about 90% sold on it, test drove it the other day and I'm a little concerned about the clutch point. Has anyone noticed a higher clutch point on this car with the manual transmissions? It only has 21k miles on it. Trying to figure out if it's operator error or something else. Thanks.
  • partib99partib99 Member Posts: 1
    I got a car toyota corolla 2001.Few days ago I found on the screen of the sound system written " SEC".I can't listen radio or cassette any more. One of my friend said I need to get the code to unlock the system. Anyone know the password ,so I can unlock it. I think it should be related with my engine no,is that true?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    What do you mean by operator error? I think you are asking does the clutch engage further off the floor than other cars? I think the Corolla has a long clutch travel, and it does engage a bit higher off the floor other cars I have driven before, but this is not a problem. Be sure and check the clutch out to be sure it is not slipping, etc. I have ridden with lots of people who are sure that they are using the clutch correctly, but the reality is they are not, causing premature failure. Unless you know the old owner, you will never really know how much wear the clutch got the first 21k miles, but just be sure it is okay now.
  • samm1957samm1957 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2005 CE with a 5-speed, stickered at 32 and 41. So far (1,800 miles) I have gotten 40 mpg on four tanks, with combined coming in at 36. At 800 miles I changed to 5W30 Mobile 1 pure synthetic, but I got two tanks at 40 with the OEM oil.

    You may want to check air pressure rating of the tires. I think the label calls for 31, but the tires are capable of higher, which could reduce rolling friction, thereby upping the mpg.

    So far I am very happy with this car, mpg was one of the reasons I purchased it.
  • joanna56joanna56 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. Exactly what I was after. And by operator error I meant riding the clutch. I had to replace a clutch in a 1990 Subaru Legacy, but only after 120k miles. And the clutch point was really high in it just prior to the replacement.

    Thanks again! That was a help!
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Your welcome. But do not forget to test for slipping. One way to test for this is to try accelerating in 5th gear from 20 mph. The rpm's should not go up quickly - they should very slowly rise, just like your speed. Also, check for a judder, (shudder?) upon release. It should not do this, except sometimes when the car has been sitting out in cold and wet conditions for quite a few hours.

    Toyotas may not be the most stylish or performance-oriented cars, but routine maintenance is so much easier to do on Toyotas than other makes, and reliability and efficiency are tops. Let us know how things go. Good Luck!
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