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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • smiley7smiley7 Member Posts: 1
    Hello

    The "Req maint" light was lit up after my first 5000 miles. I guess it is trying to tell me my first schedule maint. is due. Is this normal? But then I changed eng. oil and filter myself. It is still lit up. Do I have to bring to the dealer for them to do the maint? Do any of you know is there a way to fix this?
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    ....$40 master switch from ebay yesterday and installed it this morning. I was pleased that this fixed my window problem as having to replace the power window motor assembly would've been more costly and much more labor intensive. All systems go! Merry Christmas!
  • nightattacknightattack Member Posts: 16
    Anyone know how to disable the DRL system on an '05 Corolla?
  • vincewood30vincewood30 Member Posts: 48
    There is a trick to getting the light to go off. You have to have the key off I believe (or on can't remember which) and you hold the trip meter button in. You will see a countdown which I believe starts at 10. Let it go all the way down to 0 and it should reset the maintenance light.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    more than likely, the MRL (MAINT REQUIRED LIGHT) and the CEL (CHECK ENGINE LIGHT) and the SRS (SAFETY RESTRAINT SYSTEM) light, and other indicators on your instrument panel are described in easy to understand terms in your owner's manual.

    the best way for you to avoid damage to your vehicle and maintain and operate it properly (and safely) is for you to start with a read (front to back) of your owner's manual. it is amazing how many people avoid doing this - but the information can be very important...

    sure there's going to be information which won't be new to you like "always buckle up" and here's how. but there will be some specially good information specific to your ride on instrument panel indicators and warnings, how to check proper fluid levels, location of fuses and relays, how to jack your vehicle up to replace a tire, what are the manufacturer recommended maintenance intervals.

    you will always be the very first person who will notice the vehicle not operating properly, possibly it's indicating a problem with a warning light, or maybe it's running rough, or you have noticed it lacks the proper level of some important fluid when you look under the hood, like anti-freeze, power steering, brake, transmission, or engine oil.

    (everyone should be periodically checking these things when filling up (not all the time, maybe every 5 fills and specially before a long trip... noticing a change early can save you serious money and inconvenience.))

    sorry - don't mean to preach but it is amazing that people just get in the car and go, and don't familiarize themselves with the vehicle first...not saying this is you. they'll spend time and effort getting it shiney on the outside, but have little interest on what goes on under the hood.

    true story: my wife and i in mexico rent a vehicle in cancoun (at the most popular of rental agencies) to navigate the yukatan penninsula. first thing i do before leaving the rental lot is check the engine fluid levels. wife and i were glad i did. i discover no oil (none, not even at the minimum mark). lucky we checked this before embarking on our trip, right? imagine we had a breakdown in the middle of who knows where exactly (they mark private roads with sticks and plastic bottles or other materials), where spanish is not our native language, where they measure in kilometers, not miles, where a down-pour is serious, with service stations located far apart, where there is probably poor cell coverage, and even if you could make a call, who would you call? ... you get the point.

    to your question - more than likely the MRL is normal and comming on at a preset mileage interval, and as mentioned there probably is a not-so-obvious procedure described in the manual to allow you, the owner to turn it off after being reminded of the periodic maintenance interval's passing.

    enjoy your vehicle.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    ...who's able to read my posts in this topic, because there hasn't been a single response posted to any of them. I find it difficult to believe that absolutely no one in this form has ever had a problem with the power windows in their Corolla!
  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    My rear passenger window stopped working, but since the car was still under warranty, the dealer just replaced the acctuator(?) and I was back on the road. Sorry I couldn't have been more help.

    The Sandman :)
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    Just when I thought I had my window problem fixed, the dam thing quit working on me just as I was about to pull into a car wash. I paid for a wash and I put my window down to enter in my wash code and then it happened.....it refused to go up and it was in the fully down position. Needless to say there was quite a bit of cussing and swearing going on! There are few things more frustrating than an inoperative power window in the middle of winter! I was finally able to get it back up by letting it sit for a while then tapping the switch to the up position and repeating. This process took about 10 minutes before I was finally able to get the window all the way up. This just furthers my hatred for power windows. I've always hated them and now I loath them to boot! They are more convenient than manual windows when they work, but they're much more prone to break down, and much more expensive to repair when they do. I guess since the switch didn't fix the problem, I now have to replace the motor. Every vehicle I ever owned would have manual windows if I had my say!
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    FWIW: i suggest when it happens again you try opening that door and playing with the door angle or have someone move the wiring harness going into the door while activating the switch. it's possible it isn't the window motor, but the wiring to the door or the connector on the harness to the motor (loose or a broken wire/connector).

    someone once told me in the Grand Caravan (i think that was the model vehicle), his motor wasn't bad, it was the wiring harness to the motor...

    just another thing to check if possible to narrow the root cause.

    if the door window sometimes works, and it isn't an issue with motor thermal over-current protection (say a vehicle that has trouble with a window when left in the sun) or there isn't a mechanical binding problem, i would suspect wiring first and motor second.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    I tried moving the door into different positions while activating the switch.....didn't help. The window will come up in small incements, it moves about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch at a time. It moves, then you have to let it sit without moving the switch for 15-20 seconds before it'll move again. It acts exactly like something in the motor is giving out. I would think if the problem was in the wiring, like you said, you'd be able to move the door and/or the wiring harness into a position where the window would work normally. That doesn't happen.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    gotcha.

    ok, is there a way to remove the door panelling (to get at the motor), and to verify you don't have any mechanical binding of the window glass against the door?

    seems like the motor is perhaps going into some over-current protection mode.

    if there is no mechanical binding, then i'd agree with you - sounds like time for a new motor.

    one thing you can do is scope or put a volt meter across the terminals of the motor which get supply when switch is activated. if you activate the switch and the window starts to move and the volt-meter indicates you have voltage at the motor, then the window stops, but the volt meter still indicates power to the motor, i'd say the protection inside the motor is bad.

    also you could set the voltmeter to current, and you could activate the switch and watch the current draw as the window is in motion. presumably right when it stops, there will be a decent up-tick in current draw.

    your vehicle is a popular one. not sure where you live, or your mechanical inclination, but i suppose you might check a pull-it / used parts yard for a replacement.

    there must be some debugging tips on the web, maybe even installation instructions. also - there's got to be aftermarket or rebuilt window motors (i think they call them window regulators) for sale.

    maybe an independant would toss it in there for a decent price if you weren't inclined to do so yourself.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    I have a Haynes manual for the car, but strangely the power window motor/regulator removal and installation procedure isn't in it. I emailed Haynes about the procedure and they've been real good about emailing me amended procedures omitted from manual in the past. I've also done some searching on the internet and have found some new motor/regulators for $50-$60. I'm fairly handy mechanically and I don't have problem tackling this task myself. The new motor/regulator comes with a new cable and I can make sure the window isn't binding when I install it. If I'm going in, I might as well make sure everything is good so I won't have to do it again.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    agreed. for 50/60 $ i'd probably try the same, provided i could figure out how to get the door panelling off. ;)

    if I'm going in, I might as well make sure everything is good so I won't have to do it again.

    "As always, should you or any of your I. M. Force be caught or killed, the Secretary will disavow any knowledge of your actions."

    "good luck jim".
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    ....now there's a procedure covered in the manual.....
  • jimmanjimman Member Posts: 2
    On my 2001 Corolla I too have a burned out dashboard light. I am unable to see my fuel gauge. Does anyone know how to change this light?
  • litch6799litch6799 Member Posts: 3
    My wife owns a 2005 Corolla and whenever she goes over 60 or 65 mph ( depending on the wind ) the wipers make a loud whining sound similar to blowing on a blade of grass when you were a kid . It becomes pretty irritating when the speed limit is 70 and the car rings out like an air-raid siren . Anybody have a similar experience ? How did you fix it ? :confuse:
  • jehruejehrue Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 06 corolla s and discovered I can't get my right arm comfortable,armrest that is on it sits to far back and to far down.My question is, has anyone found a aftermarket armrest that would provide some support.
  • joecarnutjoecarnut Member Posts: 215
    Hi Everyone,
    Can you tell me how long the temporary spare tire is rated to last?
    Also if the spare tire area can handle holding a full size tire instead of just the smaller temporary spare?

    Thanks for any help as we are considering buying a new Corolla but are concerned about the spare tire issue.

    Thanks.........Ken
  • pgilbertpgilbert Member Posts: 23
    Thanks for the suggestion, Grimy. Know what - my problem turned out to be electrical; one contact in the sealed distributor cap-spark plug wire was poor (after replacing it, I cracked it open to take a look). Just shows you have to keep an open mind... all the symptoms were seeming to point 100% to a fuel-related problem.
  • zaweezazaweeza Member Posts: 1
    In the past two months I feel my car is falling apart. Anyone experiencing the following...
    1 - brakes are making a terrible noise - not when apply them (it actually stops then) just when the car is coasting (below 10 MPH) - had them checked out and they are telling me nothing is wrong
    2- passenger side headlight keeps going out - I've replaced the bulb (twice) - stays on for a couple of weeks and the next thing you know, it's out again - not sure why
    3 - driver's side window has fallen - started making almost a cracking noise when opening - now the window does not go up straight - the front has fallen - how do you remove the door panel?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • grimyfacegrimyface Member Posts: 27
    Zaweeza,

    1. Get a second opinion! :mad:

    2. Have you noticed any evidence of cracks or leaking in the headlight housing? I had a similar problem on my old '91 Dodge and it turned out to be water getting into the headlight assembly. :surprise:

    3. According to #2281 above, the procedure is in the manual. :blush:

    (BTW, wouldn't a 2003 still be under warranty?)
  • biogradstubiogradstu Member Posts: 6
    Hello all,

    I have a couple of questions that I hope someone can answer. I have a 1993 Toyota Corolla 4dr sedan. My problem started a couple of days ago. One of the guys was following me to work and he said he noticed that all of my brake lights were staying on (back window light, and all of the red lights in the rear). This only occurs when the headlights are on. If the headlights are off, the brake lights work normally (all of them only light up when the brakes are depressed). BTW, I have checked the parking brake numerous times and I also assume if it was the parking brake, the brake lights would stay on when the lights were off.

    Anyways, now I am noticing that when the lights are on and you depress the brakes, the dashboard lights light up and the radio lights will dim (odd!). I called a mechanic and he said he thought one of the lights might be grounded and thus causing an electrical problem. All of the lights seem to be illuminating. Has anyone else had this problem?

    I tried to check the rear brake lights, but I can't seem to get the light case off. I undid the two screws on the light, but I can't seem to pull it out and I can't find anymore screws. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance for any help.
  • hoopituphoopitup Member Posts: 5
    Go to page 114 in the owners manual. No need to go to the dealer for this. The light comes on every 5M miles.
  • joreganjoregan Member Posts: 1
    My daughter bought 1998 Toyota Corolla 8 months ago. It has over 80,000 miles on it. The car has been running just fine until a few weeks ago it started making a random banging noise underneath. She said it also feels that it is losing power. She brought it to a very reliable mechanic and he could not find anything wrong with it. But then mumbled something about it may be the transmission.
    Tomorrow she is bringing it to a Toyota dealer for a diagnostic evaluation. Has anyone experienced such a problem with their Corolla or have any ideas as to what it may be. Thank you.
  • vincewood30vincewood30 Member Posts: 48
    If you haven't got that starter fixed and need some help I live in So Cal also. I could probably do it for you if you like. You can e-mail me at VinceWood30@Yahoo if you still need help with this problem.
  • paulcudlippaulcudlip Member Posts: 33
    Just purchased a 2006 Corolla S automatic 4 weeks ago. Live in the cold area of the country, Buffalo, NY area noted for extreme cold and freezing temperatures.

    There is no idle problem on our new 2006 Corolla S. Starts up and runs smooth each day.
  • samuraigarysamuraigary Member Posts: 3
    YES! My wife's 2005 Corolla has had these intermittant "SCREAMS" since it was 3 months old. Seems to happen more in warm weather instead of cold. How can you say it's the windshild wiper? I have brought the car into the dealership and they replaced some kind of airflow parts and after 1 week the problem popped up again. During the cold weather in Chicago for NOV/DEC she didnt hear it. Now today here in Jan, it's a warm day (over 40 degrees) and we were driving over 70 mph and that' all we heard. I recorded the sound and this time Toyota cannot tell me "It's normal air flow sounds". Yep... that's how they insulted my intelligence and simply told me that SREAMING sound is normal!!!!!!
  • samuraigarysamuraigary Member Posts: 3
    The SAME sound/problem is heard on my wife's 2005 Corolla. It is a intermittant "SCREAMING" sound when traveling above 65 mph to can start up to 85 mph. These SCREAMING sounds happened after only having the car 3 months last year. Took car in the summer to dealership and they 1st replaced some kind of "air-flow" parts. After 1 week the sounds happened again. Took the car back and then THOMAS Toyota in Joliet, IL insults my intelligence and they simply now state "it's normal air flow sounds". Can you belive it? You hear SCREAMING sounds and they come back and say it's normal! I just recorded these sounds today and next Friday will be taking the car into the dealerdship where I bought the car (Toyota of Naperville, IL) and they can hear it for themselves. I afraid the bottom line and only cure in the end is not to buy a Toyota car again. Everytime I hear these sounds while driving on the expressway I go nuts. I don't know how my wife can tolerate it. I drive a older 1996 Honda Accord with over 200,000 miles and have never had any issues with it!
  • samuraigarysamuraigary Member Posts: 3
    SAME issues with 2005 Corolla! Wife had her car only 3 months and this SREAMING sound come from near under the hood when she began driving over 65 mph. THis happened intermittantly. When the SCREAMING happens the sound can make one go nuts and very evident. Thomas Toytoa dealership in Joliet, IL first listen to my problem and replace some kind of air-flow parts. After 1 week the SAME SCREAMING sounds popped up again. Took it back to the dealership and now they are holding firm that these SCREAMS are simply normal air flow sounds! Can you believe it? Today I recorded these sounds and will be taking my wife's car back to dealership next friday with the sound evidence. We will see what happens. I drive a 1996 Honda Accord and never had any issues. If Toyota can't fix this issue then we simply cannot and will not ever buy or recommend a Toyota car again.
  • litch6799litch6799 Member Posts: 3
    I'm going to try a different , more aerodynamic type of wiper . My wife seems to be able to temporarily silence the sound by wetting the windshield with the washer . It's gotta be air forcing it's way under the blades . I'll let you know if it works out .
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    that's an interesting observation! so the wiper arm may not be the source of resonance...and the wiper itself hasn't changed (wet windshield vs. dry).

    any chance you're taking your vehicle through a car wash, and applying a wax to the entire vehicle?

    my thinking is perhaps there is a surface film on the glass partially at root cause.

    if you think you do have a wax film on the windshield, i wonder if cleaning it with a good solvent or glass cleaner might quiet down the blade chatter. perhaps i'd try cleaning the blade rubber as well.
  • dodd3dodd3 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2003 Corolla on ebay, picked it up two days ago and could not shift it into drive this morning. I also noticed that the following quit working also (they were all working yesterday), radio, heater fan, gas guage, temperature guage. I suspect fuses, but do not have an owners manual. HELP!!
  • litch6799litch6799 Member Posts: 3
    It made the noise since brand new and I'm sure it happened with and without wax (or other film) on the windshield BUT you may have a point . I will try cleaning the windshield thoroughly and if nothing happens I'll try some rain-x or wax . My personal belief though is that the hoodline does not direct the airflow over the blades enough and hence the noise . No matter the cause I WILL FIX THIS . When I do , I will post the fix . Good idea . Thanks . :surprise: :blush: OOPS! a little gas .
  • sunburstsunburst Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 Corolla CE has a high pitched whine when it downshifts to a low speed and also a "whistle-like" sound when I gently depress the accelerator. This doesn't occur until the car is warmed up -- generally after being driven for 10 miles or so. I usually happens in Drive (I have an automatic transmission). The vehicle functions fine, except for this noise that drives me crazy. I took it into the dealer, but they couldn't find it; the rep advised me he was "chasing a ghost"! According to the dealer, it is not the drive train. There is no noise at high speed, just in stop-start traffic, or when the transmission downshifts to a low gear. I hope someone out there has some suggestions. Thanks.
  • milnermilner Member Posts: 1
    I have been having problems with my starter for about a month now. The car clicks and won't start, sometimes it will but lately not at all. Firestone says that repairs would be about $400 because of the location of the starter. A friend of mine said that he would help me change it. I was wondering if it was in a location that I could reach it, and how feasible it is for a novice with a friend who knows cars a little bit to give this a try. Any help would be appreciated! thanks
  • toyotasrinitoyotasrini Member Posts: 1
    I have problems with my starter too. I bought this corolla used...the same problem as earlier...once i turn the ignition there is a click but it wont start...this happens only if i have kept the car not started for a day or so and in cold weather....After i drive it for about 4 to 5 miles then it doesnt happen at all till the temperature cools down...replacing a starter will cost about 300 bux or so...what must be the problem?
  • ckfreundckfreund Member Posts: 24
    I'm envious when I read about other people's gas mileage with their Corolla. I have a 2005 Corolla LE with automatic transmission. I currently have about 6500 miles on it. In the summer and fall, I averaged 24-26 mpg in mixed driving. Now that it's winter (I live in Wisconsin) and I only drive the Corolla in the city, I'm getting 20 mpg. What's wrong with my car?
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    If I were you I'd take it to a Toyota dealership because it's possible that you only need the starter solenoid replaced, not the whole starter motor. If that's the case then it should be under $200 for the repair. A Toyota tech will be able to tell very quickly if that is your problem or not.
  • grimyfacegrimyface Member Posts: 27
    By all means, get the battery checked! :surprise:

    The symptoms you describe could be due to a failing battery, which is a *lot* easier and cheaper to replace than a starter. :blush:

    In my area, AutoZone will do this for free.
  • bscarbscar Member Posts: 1
    We got a 1999 Corolla with 70k miles on it. It makes popping noise, which seems to be coming from the front end. Usually, the noise only starts after I drive for a while (5-6 miles), no difference if I turn or go straight. Any idea what the problem might be?

    Thank you.
  • bpnmbpnm Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    I got 2001 corolla CE, 5speed, 67000 miles.
    When I shift from 3rd to 4th gear, I hear rattling noise.
    It's louder after an driving it for a while. I hear it only when I am pressing accelerator, in gear 3 or 4, little bit on 5th gear. No noise on 1st or 2nd. gear.
    This noise is coming at around 2000 rpm, on 3rd and 4th gear, noisier when warmed up, noisier after 20 miles of driving.
    I took it to transmission shop, they could not make
    anything of it. They lifted the car, engaged gears, but I could not hear the noise outside of the car. The mechanic could hear it inside, but only slightly. The transmission oil was fine, the color it should be; they "kind of" excluded transmission/differential problem. They told me that the clutch may not be the problem either.
    They actually did not know what it is. 3 mechanics looked at it, 2 of them drove it.
    When in neutral, I hit gas pedal, I hear no rattle noise.
    I thought it could be the engine valves or something loose in camshaft area, needing to adjust. Another shop (over the phone) told me that the valves don't need to be adjusted, they have hydraulic system (I dont understand that). From what i told this shop guy, over the phone, he thinks it may be a throw bearing. Could it be aslo the timing chain? I am hopeless, I am about to take it to a shop for diagnosis. The CV joints look OK, no noise when I turn the wheel. Thanks ahead for advices or opinions.
    I bought the car 1100 miles ago, started noticing this 500 miles ago.
  • bgershbgersh Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on my 94 corolla. replaced the baterry - didn't help. So I got a used starter from a junk yard for $40 and replaced it. The problem was to get the old starter out - I had to remove the plastic shield on the side to make enough space for a starter. It shouldn't take more than 1.5 hour if you know this "trick".
  • bpnmbpnm Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem on 95 corolla 3 years ago.
    Starter would click several times, until i got the right moment to engage it. The it started.
    There are 2 cooper "things" inside your statrter (the head
    portion of it) where the wire from battery connect.
    The copper parts one on the upper one on the lower portion of the head are worn out so much. The engagement portion of the starter (the little teethed wheel - solenoid did that). Sorry I don't know the technical terms for these.
    The 2 metal copper parts cost me $22 from toyota dealership and I replaced it myself. It was very thight place to get to (the upper one), but I did it.
    For novice, you might get frustrated, as long as you can rwach the darn upper nut - very difficult to get to.
    Patience.
  • themoon77themoon77 Member Posts: 102
    I know for a fact that lots of Camrys, both of mine for instance, do this. The problem? "Starter Contacts"--I have been quoted $60 for a fix, and that's for both parts and labor. I am not sure if this is what's wrong with your Corollas, but I would almost bet on it.

    Please, don't go out and spend all that money for a new starter unless you absolutely positively need one!
  • themoon77themoon77 Member Posts: 102
    "did anyone have any idea about why my battery and brake light on my gauge stay on for up to an hour after I start it? thanks for your help and time"

    Oddly enough, I have been told that this is a problem with your alternator brushes. Have it checked out.
  • pht2282pht2282 Member Posts: 1
    i think this was covered in a previous post but i am just double checking...

    for my 2003 corolla, the dashboard, headlights etc. don't turn on until 5-10 seconds after i start my engine and release the parking break...

    this to me is very annoying..

    what option should i change to if i don't want this to happen? (i.e. do i switch to all manual with no automatic lights? will the car beep if i forget to turn of my lights?)

    i would like to keep the daytime running lights, so can i just switch my headlights on manually at night and they will still automatically turn off or do i lose all the automatic options when i do that?
  • drsugarcultdrsugarcult Member Posts: 2
    i turn the key and give it gas, and it tries to start, i doubt its the altenator or the battery cuz i jumped the car. i think it might be the spark plug or even the gas not getting to the engine. anyone have any clues to whats happening to my car?
  • delilahdelilah Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Corolla Sedan and after fixing the electronic box that controls the car, the speedometer doesn't work, I don't know what started but everytime I exceed amount of speed the check engine light appear I think is that the electronic device recognize that piece isn't working. The mecanic told me that is the sensor but in order to fix that I have to replace all the part... I'm just wondering is a way to fix it without replacing all the device. For any question about the type of transmission the car is automatic.
  • drsnydrdrsnydr Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a new '06 Corolla with a 5-speed manual. The car runs great, but I've never had a car that goes so fast - in idle - in reverse. The thing shoots back like a rocket, and braking will lead to stalling, so I end up using the clutch too much. It idles at 1,000rpm. This is my first Corolla - is reverse geared very low or something? Anybody else experience this? Thanks in advance.
  • edwin_redwin_r Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone know how to disconnect the odometer (or speedometer) on a 2006 Corolla?
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