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having written that, the FIRST thing i would do is open the hood, start the car, and look for anything amiss...leaking fluids, smoke from anywhere, wires / insulation in contact with hot engine parts.
if there was nothing obvious, and if the vehicle is new or just had an oil or anti-freeze/coolant change, i'd probably take the vehicle for a long drive and see if that takes care of it. but this presumes i looked it over really well and saw where there might be spillage, or i was sure there wasn't anything making contact with hot engine parts that shouldn't be.
otherwise, you might want to bring it right in to your dealership.
While washing my gf's car I noticed that her tires have a large crack on the side. They're the standard tires that came with the car (i.e. not the Bridgestone's put some el cheapo tire), and I've been looking around.
The Kumho's are hard to find and have to be special ordered. The stores I've called are trying to unload the Falkien's on me (or her, rather; I'm doing the researching).
Any recommendations? Anyone know who the cheapest tire place is? For example, for four Falkiens from Sears it'll cost 350 OTD. That's outrageous. Are those prices negotiable? thanks a bunch!
Charley
ps If anyone knows what tires to buy for the Corolla, please do share. I know some are better for mpg, some for handling, etc etc etc.
I've got a problem with my '94 Corolla. I can hear and feel a "thunk" from the front, right wheel area when taking off from a stop. The only time it happens is taking off from a stop. I've had two mechanics look at it, one replaced a master cylinder and the other replaced the axle. It's still making the noise. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
TheBoneGuy
go to:
www.tirerack.com to compare tires. you might also decide to have some shipped and installed at a participating shop.
i think the engine control unit is supposed to kick up the idle with the A/C engaged. if it's mis-reading the throttle position, it may not be doing so.
you may have clogged fuel injectors. i'd run a can of injector cleaner in the car at next fillup (read the instructions on the can).
you may have intermittent plug wires, or very fouled plugs.
there could be a number of things contributing to the vehicle's current condition. has it been seen by a mechanic?
Justin
Thank you for your help
Eric
Basically a nickel fell into the air vent under the windshield, and she's wondering if it could fall into any place where it could cause damage. In other words, is there a grille or filter between the air vent and the fan? I'm going to look for diagrams but if anyone knows that'd be great! Thanks.
Leak? Is the fan turning with the engine on?
Get thee to the dealer if under warranty.
One dealership told me this consumption was "within Toyota specs", but another dealership never heard that before. They figured it was a carbon buildup and attempted to remove it by removing the oil and spark plugs and putting a heavy-duty pre-tune-up fluid to dissolve the carbon around the rings (compression test before this came up "normal", so no cracked cylinders), and leave it sit overnight. Put in new oil and spark plugs, and away I go. Although I got a noticeable increase horsepower (two year's of combusted oil in the cylinder chambers didn't help performance), my oil consumption is the same as it was before.
The car is otherwise in perfect condition, so I'm seriously considering an engine overhaul...
Second thing I would do is place a white sheet of poster board down on the ground under where I park. I'd look for signs of dripping oil, and see if I could locate it. Maybe you have a leaking oil pan or leaking drain bolt.
Third thing I would do is use an engine degreaser to clean the engine free of junk. Then I would drive it for 1K and see if there was an obvious source of leaking.
As for the oil leak checking, I have had three engine shampoos to check for seepage over the last two years, and although a tensioner O-ring was replaced, the mechanic didn't think it was the primary cause for the oil loss.
I park the car in the same spot on my driveway for the past 6 years, and there isn't a mark on the driveway at all, from any stains.
When the spark plugs were last replaced, there were only about 20,000 km on them (12,000 miles), and a couple were already showing signs of problems. I had them replaced last summer since the last set were actually causing mis-fire problems because one of the spark plugs was completely gummed up (likely from trying to burn oil along with the gas).
I have had a mechanic (always Toyota service centres for the car) think that a sludge build-up on the valve covers could have been the cause of the oil consumption, and they put in a Wynn's engine treatment, but that didn't resolve anything. I have tried various engine treatments from Valvoline, etc., but didn't want to do too many, since they may conflict with each other and complicate the issue further.
The last thing I heard from one of the mechanics was a potential problem with the short block, but that sounded sort of vague.
Thanks again for helping!
My corolla is only a few hundred miles but since I bought it I've always had difficulties with the 3rd gear which is very hard to put (I have to go to neutral each time before which is not viable).
I'd like to try to raise the clutch pedal: can someone explain me how to proceed?
Thank you for your help
Jean
Again, this is not meant to end up as a cookie cutter street rod, so this engine may not be what a traditionalist street rodder may want to envision, but it will work for me. Any tips on sites that may be helpful?
Thanks,
Coupe1942
What do you mean by "raise the clutch pedal", and why would you want/need to?
Again, please more detail.
When going from 2nd to 3rd, I have to stop in neutral one second (without releasing the clutch) and then go on 3rd.
For 3rd to 4th or 3rd to 2nd there is no problem.
From 4th to 5th I just have to go very slowly.
There is no carpet below the pedals.
I thought that tightening the cable would make things easier: don't you think so?
Jean
Yes, I put the foot all the way, this is why I thought that adjusting the pedal would be easy to see if there is an effect, but I have not found the Haynes for the Corolla.
So you think it is not related to the clutch but has something to do with the gear box itself ?
I am on holiday at the moment, but I'll try to go to the garage asap.
Sincerely,
Jean
The solution this problem is have the charcoal canister change. The canister has two purge valves to take the guess of know with one just replace the canister it comes with the 2 purge valves. The part # 77740-02102 for corolla 2000. once you call the dealer you will see they have it in stock they tell me this purge valves go bad on corollas.
The charcoal canister is located by the fuel tank under the car. It looks like a back shoe box with hoses coming out of it. To reset the check engine light do it with the hand held machine or just unplug one of the battery terminals.
The cost of the canister is around $250. this is a dealer part.
Mike
any ideas/suggestions would be much appreciated.
thanks.
i did check the fuse.
my brother uses the car, it turns out the (rheostat?)
light intensity dial for dash lights was turned all the way down. (problem now solved).
another question - that part of the instrumentation light on the rightmost side (the fuel gauge) is totally dark.
might be a light bulb.
has anyone had any experience replacing that light bulb?
thanks.
Even though Toyota makes bullet-proof automatics (just like the rest of the car), automatics are still the weakest link of a car, and they cost a fortune to fix if they fail. (This one of the many reasons I drive a manual tranny!) With this in mind, I would still drain and fill the tranny to be on the safe side - at a dealer, it is about $45 to do this.
If you get this done somewhere else, make sure to use ONLY the correct Toyota fluid!!!
Also, I would not do a transmission flush - check around the net for horror stories!
you know odder things have happened, but it's possible to have an original go bad, and a replacement to be defective.
Yes, I'm thinking of getting another used one this weekend and see if the 3rd try really is a charm.
Corolla is designed as low maintenance car and can easly go 100,000 miles with no ATF changes. But, some of us want to keep the car longer.
It will make the same noise while parked when the RPM's start dropping after revving the engine.
It has plenty of oil and the oil light is not coming on.
Could the oil pump be starting to go out or the screen is clogged with sludge, debris, etc...?
Please help...last thing I want to do is pay for an engine tear down after purchasing the car...sadly with no warranty.
Thanks,
Khudfly
hope this helps
ryanburbridge
My driver side and passenger side window will drop 1/2" to 1" by themselves when I start to crank down the windows. The dealer said it is normal.
Anyone has the same problem?? Thanks.