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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    I wrote to Toyota Motor Sales USA HQ, but didn't really expect them to answer.

    I'm about to purchase a new car for my son and it will not be a Toyota, and when it's time for me to purchase a new set of wheels it will not be a Toyota either. Totally inconsequential to Toyota though.
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    If absolutly nothing happends, it is probably an ignition switch
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    I'm with mcdawgg, it's most likely the starter solenoid. It's one of the few weak points of that Corolla. You can have just the solenoid replaced, it's cheaper than a complete new starter motor.
  • limelime Member Posts: 9
    I have never written to Toyota Motor Sales USA HQ, last year when I had problem with the dealer I called Toyota Customers Service 800#, but nothing has been worked out.

    I bought the 05 new Corolla in the beginning of last year, only a week after I picked up the car the check engine light on the dashborad came out, I took the car to the dealer and they just erased the light and blamed on me that the problem was because I did not close the gas cap correctly; then the light came up again and I had to send the car to the dealer again and they told me the same thing again; the same repeated 3 times, when the light came up again at the 4th time I was getting impatient and mentioned to them the "Lemon Law", they finally "found out" the problem was a small hole at the canister and changed the part, then the light did not came up again.
    Unfortunately after 14 months the check engine light came up again, same as last time, the dealer immediately blame on me that the problem was caused by the overfill of gas oil, they said it happened because most of the gas service men overfill the gas for to round up the price, I told them it is impossible because I do the fill up by myself and I use credit card for payment. Now they found out there is "metal fragment" (maybe it is not the proper word) in the tramission, they need to empty the fluid oil and clean up the "metal fragment", this is the last thing I heard from them and they are keeping the car until next week.

    I am so frustrated with Toyota, I understand nothing is perfect that is why there is "warranty" policy to protect the car owner, but why they keep wasting time on blaming the car owner, instead of looking into the car problem and fix it at once!!!????
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Wow, your dealer is terrible. Try a different one.
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    Now I see why you want to take your Corolla to a different dealer. Wait till you get the car back and never return there. Do ask them to give you a loaner car. The dealer won't mention it to you unless you do.

    I live in Brooklyn. I purchased my Corolla at Plaza Toyota on Nostrand Ave., but due to the distance from my job, I took the car to Bay Ridge Toyota. Huge mistake on my part. No that the original dealer would've been any better or different.

    In your case and despite the frustration you're standing your ground. Hold on a little bit longer because may be the dealer will fix the car right this time.
    Also please remember that the Corolla is a very good car and a good value.

    Keep us posted and good luck!!!!!!
  • limelime Member Posts: 9
    Yes I got a loaner car, like what you said I have to go through some issue to get the same. Will keep you informed.

    Have a nice weekend and a great Labor Day !
  • chicagotomchicagotom Member Posts: 3
    When I turn the key, the lights on the dashboard are coming on and such. If it is one of the problems you mentioned before about a solenoid something or other, how much will that cost to get repaired?

    Thanks!
  • richk6richk6 Member Posts: 87
    Can anyone direct me to an online diagram on how to install rear tail light assemblies on an 03 Corolla. Specifically which interior screws hold the assembly in place. Any info or sources would be appreciated.
  • kyetan21kyetan21 Member Posts: 1
    Well i got my lucky little :lemon: used for about 900, and it had a spot-less engine, "which probably meant it was just cleaned", no noticeable problems, "which is probably why they couldn't find the dealer plate, for a longer drive". So i get it home and have my first of many radiator blow outs, some nitwit forgot to replace the flush kit's twist cap, hmm, easy to fix. Then drove it around town a few days, and noticed the temp gauge never moved off cool, but never really bothered to look. Drove it to work to pickup my check , and one of my co-workers noticed i had a broken section of the overflow resevoir, and the local autozone, said goto toyota for it, woohoo, a drive to the dealership, which causes it to over heat and die Twice, thus blowing the water inlet hose, which is a pain to replace without removing the engine, also the 2 replacement part alone set me back 50, plus the tow to get it home another 100. After getting the hose's replaced a new thermostat, a found broken temp/fuel sensor 50!!, the f-in thing still overheats after about 10 minutes of driving, i use a 50/50 prestone solution, premixed. And am in desperate need of help for this one, thanks in advance.
    :sick:
    P.s. Also forgot to mention it has about 220K miles on it. my wife really loves it since she was the one that replace the water inlet hose.
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    May be you need a new wife, LOL, Well are your electric cooling fans working ???, Is current going to them to make them go on ?? , Also some times the new thermostat they put in could be bad, Also is the motor really over heating, if not your temperture sending unit is bad, telling your dash gauge its hot, I do not think its your water pump because they do not go bad till they leak, hope this helped,
  • poliva2poliva2 Member Posts: 25
    Hi Board
    I discovered water has been entering my right Rear passenger side from Underneath the car. I Thought i left the Window open when it was raining, But when i washed my car, I decided to spray water underneath the car... Sure Enough, The floor was Damp. I panicked thinking there is a crack in the Frame of the car. To my surprise, After taking a good look underneath the car, It turns out, there is a Round Rubber Plug Directly underneath where the water is. I am almost certain this is where the water is coming from. I will bring my car to the Dealer to confirm and repair it. Is anyone familiar with these Rubber Plugs? There are Four total, Two in the front and Two in the back.....
  • john500john500 Member Posts: 409
    Overheating after all of the peripherals have been checked (thermostat, water pump, etc.) usually means that there is a plug inside the coolant channels of the engine block.
  • rennie4rennie4 Member Posts: 55
    hi everybody,
    i have a problem with the cars power. The car lights become very dim, radio shuts off and the car starts to shake before it cuts off and leaves me on the side of the road. I noticed a while ago (6 months) that my battery light and brake light will go on at the same time. When the light comes on the instrument cluster usually gets dimmer. never really paid attention to it due to the fact everything seemed fine. Just recently it dies. Took it to the mechanic and they replaced the alternator, alternator belt, and a battery. Paid around $500. The day i got it back i noticed that the light was still coming on but everything was still bright. 1 week later the car died again. I guess i wasted my money and will have to pay for something else. Damm mechanic(midas). Can someone please help me
  • fredvhfredvh Member Posts: 857
    As part of the dealer's prep, the Corolla's 4 plugs are to be installed. It could be that water is entering from there. It could also be coming from somewhere else though.
  • glennbglennb Member Posts: 34
    I recently bought a '94 Corolla and have no owners manual. I want to replace a burnt out tail lamp. When I tried to remove the light assembly, I got as far as the 2 bolts on the inside edge of the assembly, and the inner stud nut. What seems to be holding up the removal of the assembly is 2 plastic studs that seem to be located at the point where the assembly wraps around the quarter panel. Am I doing something wrong here? Do I need a special tool to get the assembly off?

    Glenn
    Cudahy, WI
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    well, you i think you want to buy an owner's manual.

    i had a '95 corolla. as i recall, the tail bulbs were accessed by turning the grey bulb holders that go into the lense assembly counter clockwise. i think there were three per side. they were definitely accessible from the trunk and easy to remove. i cannot imagine your's being more difficult.
  • glennbglennb Member Posts: 34
    They must have made a change for the '95 model year. I have no access to the bulb sockets from inside the trunk.
  • koh1koh1 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my driver seatbelt. the problem is caused by the seatbelt sensing switch.If you remove the plastic cover over the seatbelt and at the bottom, you will see the take-up roller. There is a beige color round switch assembly to the left. there is a two wire (white) plugged into it. The problem is caused by the encoder disk inside the switch is rotated out of position. I managed to fix mine by rotating the white disk in the inside. If you use a smallscrew driver, you can carefully ply out the switch assembly. I removed the seatbelt assembly and did this on the bench. There is no replacement switch to buy, you have to change the whole seatbelt. A cheap way is to jsut disconnect the two wire and short themout, this way the light will always off.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    Apologies. I might be stearing you off course.

    However:

    Is there some trunk material (grey stuff) that you can pull down which exposes the wiring and the sockets I'm talking about? If you can find the wires, they should lead you to the three bayonette sockets that are twisted and pulled out of the lense assembly.

    Maybe my memory is wrong but I thought it was only necessary to remove a couple of screws if you wanted to pull the whole lense assembly off the car, and then, to do so you'd pull straight back away from the car.

    If you pull back the trunk lining material and the sockets aren't visible, i.e. the wires go through the body through a hole, then maybe you'd have to remove the two screws, pull the lense assembly away from the body (straight back), then get to the bulb sockets.

    I apologize I can't remember it exactly.

    You could go to an Autozone and find a Chilton's or Haynes repair manual, maybe a picture there (or ask a friendly assistant at the counter).

    As I recall, replacing a bulb (turning) in the front required pulling the lense assembly straight out away from the car, so maybe the rears are the same.
  • glennbglennb Member Posts: 34
    Thanks for the reply user777. I have removed the 2 10mm bolts and the nut from the stud. What is hanging me up is that as I am pulling straight back on the light assembly, it appears to be hung up in two plastic pins that protude throught the body presumably at the point where the assembly wraps slightly around the corner to become something of a side marker. I will have to check it again when my wife gets home as there would be no logic to the assembly having studs protuding throught the body from the side.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    google it.

    you will find replacement lenses do infact have alignment pins. i know the front lense assembly did, and yeah, come to think of it the rear too... and they were a bit of a bear to pull out (specially the fronts).

    i guess when i was thinking it was an easy exercise, i was thinking of my accords. oh well.

    as i recall, and i don't want to mislead you, the rear lenses pulled straight back from the body once you remove the two screws. they didn't swing out to the side, up or down, it was straight back in the direction of a car parked directly behind you if there was one. ;)

    it is an "interesting" design. saves two screws. makes it a non-trivial exercise for mere mortals to replace bulbs huh?...

    i think when i replaced my bulbs before, perhaps what i did was put a rolled towel against the car fender (the part of the body that goes over the wheel...NOT the bumper) and used something flat for some more leverage right where a gap formed on the side of the lense on the side of the car to get the pins to disengage.

    am i making any sense?

    i bet you could swing by a dealer or independant dealing with toyotas, maybe even call a shop and they'd tell you there are some pins and it's a procedure that takes a bit of force. the parts department could show you a new lense so you could see the pins.

    they would probably take pity on you.

    BTW: the manufacturer should offer manuals for sale. also ebay.
  • glennbglennb Member Posts: 34
    user777, yes, very interesting design indeed. Add two locating pins perpendicular to the direction of a long stud, and create a situation where you need simultaneous movement in two very different directions to pull the assembly. I did call a local Toyota service department, and the service writer confirmed that the assembly does require side movement to be removed. I guess I was being a little timid as I thought those locating pins were snapped into the body somehow, requiring a special tool to remove. I will try the rolled towel/pry from the side method. Thanks for the tip.
  • iwangs04iwangs04 Member Posts: 22
    Hi,
    My Corolla is just 5 months old and got about 5K miles on it. The Maint Reqd light is on for couple days now. Does anyone know what kind of problem is this? I've changed the oil once b4 3K miles. I don't notice any difference on the engine/performance.

    Thanks for any tip.
    Wangs04
  • iwangs04iwangs04 Member Posts: 22
    Hmm tricky,
    I think I found the resolution, some have posted on this forum with the same problem, to correct MAINT REQD light. I will try to reset the ODO as soon as I have a chance.
    Wangs04
  • john500john500 Member Posts: 409
    Page 110 in the owner's manual. It is hidden very well. It took me about an hour flipping through the manual to find it.
  • iwangs04iwangs04 Member Posts: 22
    I tried to reset the ODM, as suggested by some of the posts in the forum here, but it doesn't seem to fix mine. The owner's manual indicates that it needs an oil change. This seems kind of odd to me :confuse: I never experienced this weird problem with any of my others Toyotas, must be somekind of sensor setting??? The recent oil change has been only used 1800 miles. It is not due for another 1+K mile...Anyway, will check on page 110 as your suggestion to see what i have to do.
    Thanks for the tip.
    Wangs04
  • limelime Member Posts: 9
    Finally I picked up my car today.

    There was metal in the transmission so the dealer needed to empty the transmission fluid and cleaned up the metal. The main reason why the dealer holding up my car for two weeks because my car got scratched while they were fixing it so they had to take it to the body shop.

    Hope my headache is over. Thanks for your mentally support.
  • hidingbackwardhidingbackward Member Posts: 19
    I have a 2006 Corolla S with less than 4,200 miles and was bought brand new from dealer. From the day I drove the vehicle there was a pull to the left. I have taken the car back 3 times to the dealer, in which they have recongnized the pull and re-aligned the vehicle. The 3rd time it was brought back they stated the "car is aligned with Toyota specs" and should be perfect. I was wondering if anyone has had the same issue with there 2006 Corolla? Or is there any other issue besides the alignment that could be causing the pull? I am now having to go through the Toyota customer hotline, b/c apparently once you have a alignment issue within 12 months - the car has to be brought back to the same dealer. It's been an extremely frustrating process and would appreciate any help.
  • moniquebmoniqueb Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I am in need of some urgent help. My 2004 Auto Corolla Sedan stalls and has trouble starting. The major problem is that it has not duplicated any problems whilst at the dealers, even when they had it for a week!
    It stalls in park, reverse and drive, always at low speed or whilst idling, and usually a few seconds to a few minutes after the car has been started. it has stalled whilst driving through car parks, whilst sitting ont he driveway, whilst backing out from car spaces, and i don't live in a cold climate either!
    Often i have trouble starting the car, with it cranking but not turning over, and then needing to accelarate whilst turning the key to get it going! And sometimes it doesn't start at all.
    My local dealer have been very helpful, but toyota technical doesn't believe them, and because they haven't actually seen the problem, they are unsure what to fix.
    So far they have checked all the 'usuals' and swapped the ECU, only for my car to STILL stall and have issues starting! I now have the original ECU back, and it's been 3 days without a problem. Usually i get about 2 weeks of perfect car and then a few days of hell. And i baby this car! Always good fuel, serviced properly - by toyota!
    Any suggestions or solutions!?! I'm going insane as i spent all my money on a 'good' car so i wouldn't have these kinds of problems! :cry: i think it could be a :lemon: but how can i prove this?
    Thanks
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    It could be due to a bad iac valve/motor, but more than likely it is caused by a fuel pressure problem. Get that checked while the symptoms are happening. It could also be something as simple as a vacumm or intake leak.
  • mobilmac1mobilmac1 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had a similar problem on their 06 corolla CE, with 185/65/15 GoodYear Integrities. The tires never handled that well, and become downright dangerous & scary when it rains, they break traction real easy on acceleration, they slide dangerously when you try to come to a stop. Air pressure was checked 1st. Has anyone had similar problems, my wife is afraid to drive it when it rains even though she is not a risky driver, we also live in the southern US and get quite a bit of rain. Has anyone noticed there headlights have no range or maybe out of alignment, we need highbeam a lot on ours. We had the oil changed for the 1st time at 5k miles, it started to drive somewhat sluggish immediately afterward, it lost some of its spunk and gas mileage dropped. Also the paint chips real easy (white in color) on the rear bumpers. And we smell coolant and can't find a leak. For the record we love our Toyotas and wondering had others experienced it. We have had it for a little over 2 1/2 months and now have 6400 miles on it and things seem to sound a little louder with the exhaust and valve train than when it was new. Is this normal for this particular engine. We also have a 03 Echo, now with over 80k and have had it over 3 yrs. and are familiar with toyotas.
  • petlpetl Member Posts: 610
    Try another brand of gas or buy from a different station.
  • nightattacknightattack Member Posts: 16
    Never had any paint, coolant smell, gas mileage, or headlight problems on my 05 Corolla S. But I do understand about the cheap tires (Goodyear Integrity). I had to buy new tires @ 30K, and I don't even drive fast. Tire suggestion: if you have to buy tires, make sure they at least have an "H" speed rating or anything above that. You can also upgrade to P195/65R15 (CE comes with thinner tires, but same 15" rim size as the LE & S). I purchased "H" rated tires and they made a HUGE DIFFERENCE in handling (wet & dry). Headlight suggestion: buy Sylvania Silverstar replacement bulbs 9006/9005; they also made a BIG difference. I also re-aimed my lights as well. As far as MPG goes, take it to the dealer; it doesn't hurt to try. I know they'll probably give you the "vehicle is operating within Toyota specs" deal. What gave me extra MPG: I installed an K&N filter, which helped. Later I installed a Short Ram Intake, which helped VERY MUCH & gave more power .....
  • primadonnaprimadonna Member Posts: 3
    Car is very well maintained, clean and in good condition. However, it's been acting up lately. At first, it was stalling so my husband replaced the fuel filter thinking that was the problem not getting enough gas through when it's accelerating. It rans smoothly for awhile thinking my problem has solved. Then, the other day the battery light came on, thinking the battery is going bad, so we replaced it (spent at least $100.00 for it). It rans good but yesterday, as i was driving up to our driveway, the battery light came on again. What else can go wrong with this car???
    Perhaps someone out there has a pretty good idea what the problem is or what causing the battery light come on. Any suggestions or remedy is greatly appreciated. Thank you. Prima Donna
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Sounds like an alternator.
  • john500john500 Member Posts: 409
    I couldn't take those tires either. I had them switched to 195 width Yokohama tires. The tire squeal going around corners is almost non-existent now. I haven't had any significant wet weather traction issues with either brand of tire.
  • primadonnaprimadonna Member Posts: 3
    I'll tell my husband what you think the problem is and thank you for your quick response to my "unknown problem"...
    Hopefully, that will solve it. Thanks a million and take care.
  • houstonspacehoustonspace Member Posts: 2
    Just bought an 05 Corolla with only 25K miles. I noticed that the engine makes a slightly different noise when starting from a dead stop when the a/c is on, compared to when it's off. At first I thought it was just the A/C's strain on the 4-cylinder engine, but I talked with other corolla owner who don't notice the problem. It's like a faint pinging sound - almost like the sound of a 4 cylinder diesel engine, but much much fainter. I brought it in to a place that checks out used cars before you buy them and they said that it happens quite often with Corollas. The technician said that the spring tensioner for the AC belt is not as strong as when it was new, causing the belt to be looser than it should, and that it is a minor problem that happens sometimes. He said Toyota will replace it as part of the warranty. Just thought I should let others know in case have this problem.
  • houstonspacehoustonspace Member Posts: 2
    I have a similar issue, but only with A/C on. Is your A/C on whenever you start the car? see my post, #2659
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i'd have to concur with mcdawgg: alternator. i replaced two in my '95 corolla. a solid vehicle otherwise. technically, the second alternator was a re-built of unknown pedigree.

    you can go to an autozone and have them put the alternator and battery under a load test. since your battery is new, you'll probably have no issue there. most likely, alternator.

    that said, i suppose it's possible the ignition switch could be going bad, or a main relay, but more than likely it's the alternator.
  • altisowneraltisowner Member Posts: 2
    My wife disagrees, but I believe her '03 Altis 1.8L with 45K has developed a noticeable vibration in the steering wheel at normal idle (800-1000 rpm). I can even detect it in the seats. Since she drives it every day, she doesn't notice it. She refuses to bring it to the mechanic. My first suspicion is loose engine mounts. Is an immediate inspection in order, or can it wait until she brings it in for routine maintenance?
  • grosloupgrosloup Member Posts: 239
    I just bought my first car. It's a Toyota Corolla 1995 with automatic transmission.
    It has 107,000 milles on it. Very clean. Seems to run well.
    My questions are... How reliable is it? Did I make a good choise?
    I would appreciate receiving some comments about the Corolla, especially that year if possible. I don't know to much about cars and it's my first one and I'm a bit scared.
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    Hey you have a good car, I have a 98 Corolla and its a great car, except I have slight vibration in my steering wheel going over 60 MPH of and on, tryed to find the problem, but could not figure it out,its not that bad of a vibration so I just am waiting it out to see if it ever gets worse, but all else is Great.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    good car. as i said, only had to replace alternator. standard wear items like bulbs and brake pads... mine was going strong at 189K when we sold it for a van because of kids.

    make sure you regularly change the oil. if you are burning a bit of oil, you might change your PCV valve. check your engine air filter. change if dirty. both the PCV valve and air filter are cheap.
  • roscoe_burdickroscoe_burdick Member Posts: 3
    My wifes 2003 Corolla got a check engine light 5 days ago. I checked the gas cap, and I could turn it a quarter of a turn before I could get it to click. I wrote off the CEL as a loose gas cap. I read in the manual it will take "Several" trips before it resets. I was wondering if anyone has any idea what "Several trips" mean. I don't want to leave the light on too long in case it is something more then a loose gas cap. The car seems to run fine.
  • grosloupgrosloup Member Posts: 239
    I had the same problem with my Van ( 1999 GM Venture) The technician at the dealer told me that I had to turn my key on and off to "ACC" without starting the engine about 40 times to get that "check engine" light to go off or bring it in for a "Reset" It cost me 19.95$ for a reset and it took 30 seconds. What a bummer.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    my thinking is 7 to 10 driving cycles.
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    Take your car to a local auto parts store like Auto Zone or like stores. They will clear the light for free. If it comes back, then you know there is something else wrong.
  • roscoe_burdickroscoe_burdick Member Posts: 3
    I went to autozone and they read the code. I believe it was P440 which deals with the evaporative emissions, and would be one of the codes set for a loose gas cap. They said they legally couldn't reset the code for me though, so I guess I will have to wait and see if it ever goes off, or disconnect the battery to clear it.
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