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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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  • grammy5grammy5 Member Posts: 2
    I recently replaced the dome light bulb and now my seat belt light constantly flashes. I took out the light bulb and the flashing stopped. I called my Toyota dealer service department to ask if this was a problem with my model of Toyota (a 2000 Toyota Corolla sedan) and they said that I should bring it in for them to look at. I don't want to spend the money for a service check. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this problem. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • grammy5grammy5 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla LE with about 70,000 miles. I just replaced the bulb in the overhead light and the seat belt light started flashing. It didn't stop flashing until I removed the overhead light bulb. I called my Toyota dealer to ask if this is a problem with this model. Naturally he wanted me to bring in the car for a checkup. I always do the intermittent checkups. All I wanted was an answer to my question. Has anyone out there had the same problem? What have you done, if anything, about this problem? Right now my dome light isn't working and I plan on leaving it that way if that is my only issue.
  • star512star512 Member Posts: 2
    Hi! I have a 1997 Toyota Corolla with 180K miles. When idling (such as at a stopsign or stoplight), there is a rattling/shaking noise under the hood. If I were to shift the car into park, the noise stops. It doesn't make the noise at any other time while driving, and seems to make the noise less when warmed up. Anyone have an idea?
  • steve8596steve8596 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1991 Corolla. It failed the emission test for NOx. The CO and HC readings were fine and well below the maximum allowed. The "check engine" light has never come on and there are no error codes stored in the computer. The vacuum hoses are all good and fastened tightly and vacuum gauge readings are all normal. Spark plugs, wires, cap/rotor, and timing are all good. I tested the O2 sensor with a meter, and it fluctuates as specified between 0.3 and 0.7 volts indicating that the computer is consistently mixing the correct fuel/air ratio. There is no EGR valve, MAF, or O2 sensor after the converter on this engine (a 4AFE 1.6 liter), so that wouldn't be the problem. The car drives fine with no hesitation upon acceleration, although it idles a little rough at times and I get an amazing 36 mpg on the highway even though the EPA estimate for the highway is 29 mpg. I don't know if this is because of an overly lean conditon, but like I said, the O2 sensor is reading correctly and there are no computer error codes coming up. The car has 55,000 miles on it and this is the first time it hasn't passed the NOx test. (however,it passed 2000 miles ago) Has anyone else had this problem or does anyone know what the problem could be? I'm thinking converter, but I'd like to verify this with someone else who has had the same problem.
  • irolf10irolf10 Member Posts: 1
    I have had a similar problem with my car. It has been serviced 6 times for this issue and they have not discovered the real cause. What was the outcome? My car is a 2003 and the first issue began at 30,000 miles.
  • dkarschdkarsch Member Posts: 72
    I was wondering if any one has had any problems with the lower body trim on the S model. I see that it has a rubber gasket between it and the car which is the same type of gasket that gave me trouble on my Tacoma overfenders. Is the trim staying tight against the vehicle?

    Thanks!
  • skellerskeller Member Posts: 1
    My son is having problems with his Toyota. When he stops at a stop sign he has to put his car in low then wait till it gets to 10 MPH to shift up to high. This is an automatic transmission. Someone said it sounded like the sensor. If so where is this little thingy at and is the possible answer to the problem . Need help in a big way here.
    TIA
    Sandy
  • 488488 Member Posts: 9
    Garage door malfunctioned and the aerial and the threaded nut(?) was pulled from the base of the roof mount. The dealer is 100 mile trip away. Does anyone know what would be involved with fixing the problem? The two people I talked to at the dealer did not know what was required to do the fix. Can the nut(?) be put back into the base? Can the base be changed without changing the the wire lead to the head unit?
  • normo1normo1 Member Posts: 2
    Greetings,my daughter's earlier model Corolla had the same symptoms---very frustrating finally undone the earth wire on the body/inside mudguard cleaned it and re tightened.
    Problem now gone.
    Earth on this earlier car has two wires,1 to the engine,1 to the body---anyway if all else fails try this idea.
    Bye for now,Normo1
  • normo1normo1 Member Posts: 2
    Greetings,please read my post number 2679 as my daughter had the same problems,bye for now,Normo1
  • automan69automan69 Member Posts: 5
    To lower Nox you should have fresh oil and to decarbonize your engine you can use fuel cleaner by putting trough the trottle body while engine running. You can use half a bottle and little by little. Unless you have a vacuum leak, this will make a rough idle at low Rpms. Check all your hoses for vacuum leaks. Also its a good idea to use a bottle of fuel cleaner that you can put with a full tank. You can get it at Autozone or Kragen. Don't get the cheaper kind 'cause it might not work as good. If you didn't get new spark plug wires its better to check your wires with an ohm meter 'cause if they're not within specified range for your car, the car might run good but it makes big difference on Nox readings. If you drive your car almost every day, it's advisable to change your wires every two years.
    O2 sensors are supposed to be changed at 40k to 50k of life. I had a sensor was reading okay and the car wouldn't pass smoke check until I changed the sensor.
    Catalitic converters are supposed to last a long time. Although if your O2 sensor was bad it will shorten its life. They also have a life warranty of about 50k miles. Unless it was the original which should last longer.
  • llumedllumed Member Posts: 3
    I too have a high pitched annoying whistle at freeway speeds. It sounds like it comes from the dashboard or speedmeter. its a 2005 corolla S. It is aweful. I don't think my dealer has done much to try to fix it. The only way I can get it to stop is to slow why way down. Has anyone called toyota or found a cause?
  • bud_foxx44bud_foxx44 Member Posts: 31
    I have a 98 Corolla, and the Gas pedal is starting to stick, has anyone experienced this problem and if so, what was done to fix it?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Have you ever had the throttle body cleaned?
  • bud_foxx44bud_foxx44 Member Posts: 31
    This question will probably be my answer but where exactly is that? No, I have never had it cleaned.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    This is serviced as a unit except the mast that threads into the base. Go see a local body shop for an estimate. The last I knew the antenna is an assembly from the base in the roof to the radio & has an amplifier in it. Lotsa bucks. Good luck.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    We have seen stuck piston rings on these engines that leads to a quart every 500 miles of use. You need a "ring job". The timing chain is a "fix it when it's noisey" thing and not a scheduled maint. item. The ring job with timing chain runs about $2000 with shop rates of $60/hr.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    I have seen most of these noises coming from front doors that don't fit tight enough. When you hear the noise push out alittle at the top of the front doors--this should change the noise confirming the diagnosis AND which door is out of adjustment.
    The only other thing I have seen, and it is rare, is windsheild mouldings that buzz at higher speeds. This noise is very hard to duplicate so it may be just easier to do the repair which is to have a body shop reseal the mldgs to the glass.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    The Tacoma overfender gaskets falling off was a problem unique to certain Tacomas & addressed in a TSB.
    You Corolla should be fine.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    Is the noise on the passenger side of the engine compartment? Sounds like a timing belt loose from wear or stretching.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    I would also recommend a long hard hiway drive (70 mph for 2 hrs) before the next inspection attempt. I use Chevron Techron additive in the gas tank exclusively for carbon buildup.
    55,000 miles on a 1991--is that a misprint ?
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    The noise is coming from the serpentine (a/c) belt tensioner and will get worse with miles. The more work the belt does (a/c on) the more noise you'll get. The colder the engine is the more noise you'll get. This is an expensive repair and has been a problem with these tensioners for years. Make sure to have it replaced before the 3/36 warranty is over.
  • christy7christy7 Member Posts: 21
    My mother just purchased an 07 Corolla, the base model. She likes the car, but there are a couple of drawbacks for her. She is very short, and raises her seat almost as close to the steering wheel as you can go. So,by this time, she is too far in front of the center console to use it for an armrest. She's looking for pillows to purchase to prop in the area of the armrest for long trips.
    I thought I remembered seeing on one of the Toyota forums that someone replaced a Corolla armrest with one from another model of Toyota. I don't know where that discussion was. I will try to do a search to find it, but is there anyone out there who knows of a way to change out the console to something that is larger in height or length?
    Thank you all for your help!
    Christy
  • blondie9blondie9 Member Posts: 1
    I have this same problem as well with a 1998 corolla. I can lock and unlock the steering column but the key will not turn to start the ignition. The car runs fine once the key turns and ignites it. Any ideas?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Follow the air intake to just before the engine. It'll cost less than $50 at even a Toyota dealer.
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    hey when the key will not turn ,try shaking the steering wheel left and right, that should work. have a nice day !
  • rlc3780rlc3780 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 Corolla S and just recently (actually as the weather got colder in the morning), the engine is reving intermittently while it idles. Any suggestions?
  • rlc3780rlc3780 Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone else had to replace a rear hub assembly? I have 53,000 miles on my Corolla S (bought it new in 2004) and the guy who replaced it last weekend said it's the 3rd one he's done in 2 months - also his parts guy says he stocks them like crazy because he can't keep them on the shelves. Seems that if there's this big of a problem, Toyota should do a recall...
  • edoyle4122edoyle4122 Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem, and the dealership has never heard of it before. Any suggestions?
  • raygoodraygood Member Posts: 1
    did you ever finf out what was causing the Overdrive off light coming on & off? How did you fix the problem?
  • kenymkenym Member Posts: 405
    The overdrive switch is on the gear shift and very easily bumped when shifting.
  • charity21luvcharity21luv Member Posts: 1
    My boyfriend wants to know if it's still okay to change the ATF at over 100,000 mile? He's been told he would be wasting his time if he did that. He has a 1998 Toyota Corolla. Any suggestions? Thanks
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    Toyota has a Technical Service Bulletin on this.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    There is a TSB on this too.
  • rlc3780rlc3780 Member Posts: 3
    They do? Where would I find that? I already got it fixed...
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    Was it fixed by a Toyota garage? If not contact Toyota national to see if they can do anything for you.
    If a Toyota garage fixed it contact them and ask them to check their TSB's.
  • hansonworld200hansonworld200 Member Posts: 1
    We had a fire that burnt the wires (harness) coming from the battery and extending into the dash. We are replacing it, but are unsure as to where the 3 fuses behind the battery (30 amp, 100 amp...) attach. :confuse: :blush: We're sooo close!
    Any help? Please?
  • buy_odysseybuy_odyssey Member Posts: 3
    I have a great running Corolla 2000. Since past year the car battery dies off if the car remains unoperated for a couple of days. I have replaced the battery twice, but no luck.

    The Kragen mechanic checked the altinator and seems healthy.

    Please help.
  • infinitiuminfinitium Member Posts: 1
    I have problems with my Corolla type S 03. The "check" sign turned on and there's no turning it off. I took it to the local dealer for repair where he turned off the check sign by resetting it and said that the problem lies on the low octaine in the gasoline I once used, when my car was in the red line. This caused several problems such as a unusual smell of gasses expelled when acceleration occured, as well less performance. He supposedly solved the problem and the check sign was turned off. However, in a few days the check sign turned back again and the unusual smell came back.Any sugestions on how to solve the problem? I know that a low octaine fuel may cause these problems but take into account that I've been using high octaine fuel for some time now? Any suggestions, please let me know... :confuse:
  • 488488 Member Posts: 9
    The shop manual says that one should use jack stands with a rubber attachment on the corolla. Any idea where to find such an item. I took a block of hard wood and grooved it so that I could use a standard hydraulic floor jack to raise my cressida without digging out the service jack, wondering if this is the way to go with the corolla and jack stands? On my corolla when using the service jack only the inside of the u is lifting the car as the floor is about 1/4 inch lower on the inside of the "channel" the u fits around. This is at all four jacking points. Any toyota mechanics on this board that could shed some light?
  • jeffmd46jeffmd46 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 corolla. It has 168,800 miles. I've had it 5 years and this year have put about 700 into it for routine maintainence.
    Now I am wondering if its worth keeping?
    Problem: It won't start. Local shop that is reliable thought it was a bad coil or ignitor, or distributor. After putting each new part in, the car still does not start. He now says it may be the ECU(Computer), which would have to be done by the dealer. Is this expensive? Or could it be something else?
    Also he tells me the clutch is slipping in first gear.
    Car does burn oil too.
  • penizzlepenizzle Member Posts: 104
    What is the code for the light. Cant help until we know that
  • 10sfan10sfan Member Posts: 136
    Also have a 2001 CE with excessive oil consumption since about 9 months ago when it hit 60000 or so mileage. Local mechanics have indicated its is a piston rings problem requiring replacement. Replacement engines from a junk yard would most likely have the same problem. Has anyone encountered this problem and what is a recommended solution? Concern is that maybe the engine walls have to be rebored and fitted with oversige pistons along with rings. Cost may exceed value of vehicle. LocalToyota dealerships have refused any thought of warranty coverage.
  • ryan16ryan16 Member Posts: 4
    1986 Toyota Corolla
    -1.6L/ 4 A-LC Type Engine
    -Carburetor
    -Automatic

    When car is running cold, it works just fine. After normal operating temperature, when car is idle, at a stoplight etc. and in gear, it goes bup-bup-bup-bup and sounds like it might be at a lower RPM. While it is doing this it will bog down and shut off if I don’t get the RPM’s up. After it shuts off, if I’m lucky it will restart if I do it immediately, but most of the time it won’t restart; it will crank but not start. It almost seems like it acts flooded. It will start again after sitting for awhile but takes a lot of effort, after it starts, I get a lot of exhaust out of the muffler. A squirt of starter fluid in the carburetor doesn’t really seem to help; it starts for a split second but dies.

    List of Fixed Suspicions

    Thought it might be electrical at first, so I changed the following:
    -Battery, Spark Plugs, Plug wires, PCV valve, Distributor, Distributor Cap & Rotor, Alternator

    Also new are: Air Filter, Fuel Pump (mechanical type) Fuel Filter
  • mlathropmlathrop Member Posts: 1
    My '03 Corolla has an O2 sensor (bank one) light that has come on several times. i have replaced the O2 sensor twice and this has made no difference. I have had it reset several times and each time has it come back in. It only seems to come on during highway travel. I have also shown a code for a misfire in cylinder 4. As a result, I replaced the spark plugs with no positive results. I have now switched the coil packs from cylinder 4 to cylinder 3 to see if i have a bad coil pack. I will know if I shows a misfire on 3. I now am thinking that I could have a vacuum leak. I want to fix this myself because I have had bad luck with dealers and repair shops. Has anyone had simular problems and how was it fixed?
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    ryan, I have a 93 camry 4 cyl that did the same thing, seem to run good till it got to normal temp, then it would stall at idle, wait for a while and it would run again till it got warm, and do it again, The engine light never came on, and I tested everything and found out something in my distributer was shorting out, when motor warmed up to normal temp, to hard to pin point which electronic part it could be so I replaced the whole distributer unit, bought one from Advance auto or Auto Zone, and that fix my problem, easy to install if you have mechanical experience. but first you should replace your spark plugs, plugs wires, distru. cap, and roto if they need. and check your cylinder compression while you got the plugs out. hope this helped.
  • ryan16ryan16 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice. i've already replaced the plugs, wires, distributor itself, distr. cap and rotor. i also have a new battery and alternator as well as a fuel filter and pump. I haven't had the cylinders checked yet, the car is too old to have a check engine light/code system so you have to troubleshoot the old fashioned way. A friend of mine might think its the EGR Valve or maybe some bad vacuum hoses, does this sound viable?
  • automan69automan69 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1998 Corolla Sedan with AT and 120k miles. It just developed a noise that is best described as similar to a door that hasn't been open for years and is rusted something like "ngeeck ngeeck". Normally the noise is heard when your are driving and turn the wheels right or left and if you go straight you can hear it but only mild. Two guys said it was the Cv joints but I heard bad Cv joints sound more like crack crack. I raised the front two wheels and run the car and moved the steering wheel left and right and I hardly heard the "ngeeck" sound so this means it only happens when the wheels are on the floor and moving and turning left or right. Someone at a parts store told me maybe it was my bushings worn out that are scaping metal to metal. Anyone has any idea or had a similar problem. and if the problem is bushings can any one tell me which bushings I need to replace. Thanks Joe
  • automan69automan69 Member Posts: 5
    Yes it sounds viable. A bad Egr valve if stack open it will act as if you have a big vacuum leak or a hole on your engine that where air is going in all the time.
  • sitanositano Member Posts: 5
    I have the same problem with the battery light & brake light coming on at the same time leading to a dead car. What did you find out?

    Thanx STeve
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