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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    yes, a very confusing problem report... "when starting off". does that mean when starting from zero speed, or when starting the engine"?

    i liked mcdawgg's question for specificity myself. i was thinking if the vehicles had optional ABS, maybe it's the ABS doing a self check.

    but to be fair to the poster, "the solenoid" isn't a proper problem diagnosis from someone. what solenoid?

    ya know, maybe we can have a place somewhere on Edmunds or Carspace where people can upload and link to .WAV or other popular audio sample files.

    hey, maybe an audio problem sleuthing contest opportunity:

    1). For five points, identify the noise.
    2). For an additional five points, identify the vehicle. ;)
  • micomarkmicomark Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for the info dadf6. Your situation seems to parallel mine. I do here this noise in the base of the seat as well as the seat back or pehaps the movement in the back of the seat resonates causing the problem in the seat frame base?
    Is your Corolla a 2006 as well? I am hoping the problems was confined to a third party seat vendor to Toyota for only a certain period of time. If so, later frames may have the problem corrected. Did you also have the problem in the front passenger seat. We do not use that seat much but it feels loose when applying forward and backward pressure to the seat back? Thanks again ;) I am hoping I can find a couple more people who have this same defect. This will allow me to make a better case to the dealer to replace both front seats. Other than the seats, my Corolla seems like a great piece of automotive equipment. I have gone from a $330 (Ford F-150)per month gas expense on my 80 mile round trip daily to about $80 per month with the Corolla. But I sure miss my truck :cry:
  • 96corolla196corolla1 Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I have a 96 corolla. One of my rear lights will go off. I've tried to change the bulb but when I play with it, the light will come on. It seems like there is something wrong with the wires. Any idea where I can get a schematic of the wiring to follow it to see if there are problems? Or is this a problem that is way to complicated for me and needs professional help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you mean the bulb goes on and off when you touch it (the bulb itself), then you have a bad ground or loose bulb in the socket. The bulb has to fit snugly to give a good ground. Any corrosion or dirt in there?

    You might try to clean it with a non-metallic pad like scotch-brite or some wet-dry sandpaper wrapped around a pencil end....then blow out the debris and try the bulb again. (remove the bulb first of course, but clean the bulb base as well).

    If the bulb goes on and off when you jiggle the wires behind it, that's almost for sure a bad plug-in, or connector.
  • efrancoefranco Member Posts: 1
    When I go to gas up my 1998 Corolla, the gas pump keeps clickin and acts if it is full. It sure takes a long time to fill my gas tank up. Any advice...
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    a crimp in the filler tube from the neck to the tank, or some issue with the vent solenoid / vent line / evap sub-system.

    there has to be a means for air to be displaced by the gas entering the tank obviously. if the filler tube is crimped, or the vent is not operating properly then that air cannot be displaced and the tank won't fill; the pump handle will shut off flow as if the tank were "full".

    your evap system is part of the emissions controls and may be covered for a longer period than other systems on your car. you might call around and see if it's under warranty. or look in your warranty booklet.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    My Corolla was an '05 produced in August '05. I drove mine for 55,000 miles and never had the problem in any other seat. The seat back & base are serviced as a 1 piece unit btw.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    After every tire rotation,tire replacement or tire repair the system needs to be reset. The procedure is in the owners manual.
  • 96corolla196corolla1 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Mr_Shiftright,

    I will try that. If that works it will save me a lot of money.
  • 96corolla196corolla1 Member Posts: 5
    Hi again. I looked inside the socket for the bulbs and noticed that on the one that doesn't work well, one of the two raised copper parts that connects with the bulb seemed like it had melted the gray metal from the bulb onto it. It also looked flat instead of raised and was no longer copper colored. I scraped off some of the gray metal and it seems to work now. Do I need to replace it or does this indicate something worse? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like it may have overheated. Do you see any burned plastic or signs of overheating anywhere? If it were easy to replace the socket that the bulb fits into (I'm thinking it might just be a plastic piece with a couple wires coming out of it) that might be a good idea. Otherwise, just keep an eye on it and maybe get a new bulb in there.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    yes, i'd put a new bulb in there. if the bulb had significantly off-design resistance, it could have been pulling too much current. more than likely though, the bulb was not making good contact with the socket to begin with. it's just a guess.

    however, when you have electrical contacts barely touching one another, not with the proper amount of surface contact and pressure, what tends to happen is you get resistive heating and tiny localized arcing, because resistance tends to be the reciprocal of cross-sectional area (i think if i remember correctly). anyway, i wager you probably saw some dark flakey debris around the contact points... probably oxidized metal, probably as a result of arcing. and when you start getting that, guess what? it tends to get worse and increase the resistance and you get further arcing at that location, until you get a good intermittent contact.

    mechanical vibration of a bulb that isn't properly seated in a socket can also result in intermittents. as a circuit is made and broken, you'll get... arcing, and same process described above, until connection breakdown.

    where else might you see this in action?

    for you homeowners who may dabble in wiring, well, in my experience, resistive heating is a problem when people wire lots of AC receptacles in their home on one long run, and when they use the metal "quick"-stabs on the back of the AC sockets rather than taking the time to use the screw terminals for holding the wires firmly in place and in contact with the connectors of the socket.

    situate a good load like a vaccum cleaner, iron, or a laser printer at the end of that long line, and that current draw really places a stress on those mechanical stab connectors. over-time, the circuit can become intermittent or it could fail to supply proper voltage to the product being used.

    so buy some new bulbs (i like replacing mine in pairs side-to-side so light intensity is equivalent on the right/left because bulbs are same manufacturer / same lot).

    verify they are operational after they are mechanically shown to you to be well inserted and held firmly in their sockets.
  • 96corolla196corolla1 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks again for the advice. I really appreciate it. I didn't notice any burned plastic. All four of the bulb sockets for one light assembly seem to come together to one clip. I don't think I can just replace one without splicing the wires. If I need to I will probably be able to replace all the sockets. I'll keep an eye on the bulb to see how long it lasts this time. If it goes out soon, I'll replace the sockets.
  • gin0280gin0280 Member Posts: 1
    I live in the northern VA area and I, too, just failed my emissions test the other day on my 1995 Corolla because my NOx was high. My check engine light has been on since the summer and I do have an EGR problem, but I wasn't sure if that was the case. The inspector had told me that it might be the cat converter, though I forgot to tell him if the EGR had anything to do with it, which I had ignored for a few months to get it looked at again. Should I just take it to the same inspection station and have them fix it and get it over with? How much would this usually cost without labor? I am not sure what to do, HELP! :sick:
    I only wanted this car til the end of the year and purchase a new one. Sometimes I think this inspection stuff is ridiculous.
  • wwjjd123wwjjd123 Member Posts: 1
    hey,
    I have an 06 corrolla and accidentally hit something with the front. There's this plastic piece under my front light that broke off so its lowered and is off center...there's also a dent beside it. How much do you think it would cost to fix it?

    dent:
    http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h121/wwjjd123/136908143_446643941_0.jpg

    off-center light:
    http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h121/wwjjd123/136908423_446644941_0.jpg

    other (normal) side:
    http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h121/wwjjd123/136908467_446645112_0.jpg

    thanks so much!
  • sjagdalesjagdale Member Posts: 2
    I recently got 1999 Corolla with 65K miles on it.

    Its city milage is only 21 MPG.<

    Can someone guide me what maintenance is required to improve the City MPG

    Do i need to the 60K maintenance ?
  • boyd4boyd4 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 91 Corolla AllTrac with 170K on it. It has been a great car. I think the center locking differential is engaged full-time. My main clue is that the car lurches when making sharp turns on dry pavement. It&#146;s pretty clear all wheels are trying to turn at the same speed. The center differential dash light used to work but isn&#146;t working now (the light if off full time no mater the position of the center differential button).

    Looking for help on possible reasons for this problem and how to fix it. Frankly, I would be satisfied to just get the center differential free (unegaged) again as I rarely use this car in snow/ice.

    thx - boyd
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i think you have the dent / other (normal) side images mixed up. looks like maybe a "dent wizard" place could restore the fender pretty easily.
  • newbee7newbee7 Member Posts: 30
    What's the remote trunk release option for a Corolla? Does it mean being able to open the trunk remotely from a wireless keyfob?
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    It means you can open the trunk from the driver's seat.
  • klmlbklmlb Member Posts: 1
    hi wolfgar112!

    thanks for your excellent post!!!

    i've had this same issue (i have an 03 CE) and i never knew what was causing it (as the battery, starter, alternator all checked out okay). within the last week, this has happened to me 3 times. i couldn't - for the life of me - figure out the problem.... until i saw your post!

    i went to weather.com and sure enough, the 3 times it happened, the low temperture for that night was under 15 F. The other nights when it didn't happen, the low was above.

    i dropped the car off at my dealership this afternoon and the guys there thought i was crazy because i said, "the lights were on and drained my battery, but the switch control inside the car was set to off."

    i'll let them know what you posted to expedite the repairs.

    i'm so glad you posted the part numbers as well. very much appreciated.

    YOU DA MAN!!!!

    Best Regards
  • starchildb4ustarchildb4u Member Posts: 12
    the same exact thing is happening to me with my 2002 toyota corolla. i found out that along the trunk door are wires and the plastic that is encased around the wires have worn out and exposed the wires..the wires may have rubbed against something and the wiring is spliced...in turn my reverse lights dont work...and now my car will not start...the light use to go off and on when i closed the trunk door....its annoying...toyota used plastic to encase the wires and the wires are attached to the trunk when i open the trunk the wires rub against the trunk door...i can only imagine how much that will cost me to fix!!!!
  • starchildb4ustarchildb4u Member Posts: 12
    its 18 degrees in white plains,n.y. and i did not drive my car in 2 weeks and now it will not start do you think the oil is frozen, i tried to give it a jump start boost and that will not start from the jump start either...what shall i do..should i change the battery...i cant drive my car will it will not move do you think i could change the battery all by myself..is it easy to do????...could it be a battery problem???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You mean it doesn't "crank" (the engine won't turn over--it just sits there) or that it cranks and cranks but won't actually run?

    If the starter motor won't spin the engine over at all, the battery is a good bet. Oil doesn't "freeze" but it can get thick enough to strain an old battery.

    If the engine turns over very slowly but doesn't start, the battery could be weak. It should start with a jump.

    If the engine cranks and cranks and the engine won't fire up, then it's not a battery problem but an ignition or fuel problem.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    There is a viscious coupler in the transaxle assembly that prevents the lurching problem under normal conditions. The fluid in the couple wears out with time which causes the lurch problem. Although it sounds/feels nasty when it happens it can be driven this way for thousands & thousands of miles. The repair is not cost effective on a 16 yr old car with 170k miles on it. It is also important that all 4 tires are an EXACT match for brand,model & size as unmatched tires just make the lurch more noticeable.
  • starchildb4ustarchildb4u Member Posts: 12
    thank you ..actually the engine cranks and cranks and the engine wont fire, so my problem is the ignition or fuel problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you had an experienced person who knows where to squirt it (not on certain sensors in the intake system), some starting fluid would tell you if fuel's a problem--with a squirt of starting fluid, if it kicked right off, you'd know your engine wasn't getting fuel.

    Ignition problems or a lack of current to the injectors is more difficult to diagnose by yourself and requires a mechanic to check that out.

    If your problem is on again, off again, that makes it harder to figure out, certainly.

    Now....if the car will start with a boost....then it's possible that your battery is too weak to give the engine a good spin....a lazy battery won't turn the engine fast enough for a start in very severe cold.
  • tjdepere2004tjdepere2004 Member Posts: 40
    I have a 99 CE. Back seats fold down 3/4 of the way. You need to open the trunk and look in just below the rear deck. There you will see on both sides handles, pull left handle for that to come down, right side pull that handle. One also must clear[move to the side]the safety belts so seats will come down
  • starchildb4ustarchildb4u Member Posts: 12
    Thank you i fixed it, i needed to change a fuse and i gave the car a boost, initially i was using a portable mini jumper booster and purchased a larger portable jumper.. i thought all jumpers were the same. i guess not.. the bigger the more power...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Also never use cheap-o jumper cables...they can't carry enough current to the dead battery and they will start to burn up if you keep trying.
  • ajvajv Member Posts: 8
    Did you figure out how you can get the 100A fuse out? I am in the same boat. I opened the fuse box and tried to get from underneath in vain. The whole section of those 3 fuses are kind off in a plastic enclosure. I don't want to break it to get to the fuse.I think there has to be a wy to get it out, I am lost for now.. I will try again tomorrow.

    Any suggestions or advice are welcome. Thanks in advance. :sick:
  • damar1damar1 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 Corolla CE with a 3 speed automatic transmission with torque lock up driven 52K miles. I have problems with the transmission shifting from first to second gear. The problem occurs if I accelerate a particular way (not being aggressive). I have kept up maintenance by having 2 complete flushes (at the Toyota dealership) and 1 service dropping the pan (changing out 4 - 5 quarts) at an independent mechanic I have used for years. Therefore I have changed the fluid on average ~ 20K miles. According to my mechanic, there was no abnormal wear. The transmission fluid has always remained pink with no burnt smell. I am leery about taking it anywhere anticipating the response, "you need a rebuilt unit". Are there any suggestions on what maybe causing this? Thank you.
  • damar1damar1 Member Posts: 5
    Check your Toyota owner's manual. My 2001 manual states that the fluid type to use for the automatic transmission is "Automatic transmission fluid D-II or DEXRON III (DEXRON II)." Per mdawgg in another posting, it is suggested to use the ATF from the dealership. I would like to know if there is some verification from Toyota Motor Corporation if this is the case because at my last service, Dexron III was used. Also per Popular Mechanics, it was suggested to flush the transmission because it removes the fluid that is trapped in the torque converter. This is because the fluid can breakdown into a varnish like substance. Also Click and Clack, the tappet brothers on NPR's 'Car Talk' also recommend flushes over simply dropping the pan. So I have been having my transmissions flushed at the dealership. If there is a authoritative automotive stating otherwise, please reply. Thanks!
  • bcorollabcorolla Member Posts: 9
    Dadof6 and Micomark,

    I have a brand new 2007 Corolla CE that is exhibiting this seat noise at approx ~1500 miles. The seat makes a popping noise on acceleration/deceleration and when the seat back is moved back and forth. The noise is extremely annoying and poses as a safety concern. I feel that the seat will give in the event of an accident causing more injury/harm to the passenger. I have had the car for 2 months now. I brought it to Longo Toyota (El Monte, California) twice for 2 determinations for the seat problem. The first time, the technician didn't diagnose the problem correctly. The second time the service department threw the problem over the fence for Toyota Corporate to deal with. They let the District Service and Parts Manager (DSPM) evaluate the problem. The Toyota DSPM determined he was able to duplicate the same noise in the seat I have encountered and is deeming this condition as NORMAL as compared with LIKE models. Furthermore, the DSPM added that the seat is operating as DESIGNED. Hence, the Dealership and the DSPM will not do anything to alleviate the seat problem. I will most likely submit a claim to the California Dispute Service for arbitration. Please acknowledge if anyone has encountered such a hassle.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    If this is a normal condition the DSPM & SM should be able to show you other cars on the lot with the same noise.
    Your next step--tell them to show you that it's normal by showing you it exists in other vehicles just like yours.
    When I had mine done there was nothing visibly wrong with the seat frame but it cured the problem for about 10,000 miles.
  • bcorollabcorolla Member Posts: 9
    Apparently there is no technical service bulletin to document this problem. I think that if we pursue this further then Toyota "may" look into the problem. I feel ripped off becuase I purchased a new car to avoid such problems! I am speaking to the DSPM today and will let you know. Thanks for the prompt reponse.
  • bcorollabcorolla Member Posts: 9
    Dadof6,
    After you had the frame replaced, was the noise any different? My observation is that the noise is coming from a loose height adjustment lever. If you are exhibiting it too then it's a poor design or a flaw in the assembly chain. What else have you done to resolve seat the problem?
  • bcorollabcorolla Member Posts: 9
    To all Toyota Corolla owners with a vehicle still under warranty (2004-2007),

    I just spoke with the DSPM (district service and parts manager in the El Monte, Ca district) from Toyota. He compared my new vehicle to other Corollas. According to him, the seat is operating under the tolerances/variances of the design and henceforth, the seat is not warrantable. Furthermore he said that the same noise was found even in Camry's. I am totally unhappy with the quality of my Toyota. I will be submitting a claim to the National Center for Dispute Settlement and California Dispute Settlement. I urge you all to call the Toyota Customer Experience Center at (800)331-4331 and report your seat problems. I am real worried about the safety risks involved with a loose seat that Toyota refuses to repair.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    Did the DSPM duplicate your noise,while you were with him, in the other cars he compared too yours? This is the only way Toyota can claim it to be a normal noise. Keep in mind that the DSPM is a business degree not a technical degree position in Toyota. Hopefully an FTS (Field Tech Specialist) will be sent to inspect your noise. IMHO the noise is not a safety issue just annoying as all get-out. I lived with my noisey seat until I traded the car recently at 2yrs & 55,000 mile. BTW I advised our FTS of the noise his response being they hadn't seen that before.
  • bcorollabcorolla Member Posts: 9
    I never even met with the DSPM. He claimed that he had 2 other people with him at the time of the inspection (a technical specialist and the shop foreman). He refused to show me the car in person. It seems as though after the DSPM has inspected the car, his decision is the final verdict - there is practically no negotiation. What would be the best course of action to proceed? I realize that there is a design flaw in the seat but if it occurred down the line at 20K miles I would be alot happier than now when the problem occurred at 1500 miles.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    "operating as designed". sort of like the kiss of death. duplicate the issue in a number of other cars and it's suddenly a "normal characteristic" no matter how absurd it seems... geesh.

    quality. doing right by the customer. this is what toyota strives for, right?

    why don't you have someone you think is mechanically savvy drive the vehicle while you listen from the back seat location, and as the car is put thru it's paces to replicate the problem, you try to sleuth the location of the sound.

    then you drive and have that person perform the same steps and see if you converge on the probable cause.

    perhaps, there is some fitting or some metal to metal contact or other in the seat or positioning mechanicals that you can lubricate or modify (rubber bumper, foam, electrical tape, adjustment) to mitigate the problem.

    then you go into the dealership and you point blank tell them they a really poor excuses for diagnosticians and repair people. :sick:

    no - just kidding.

    you show them your findings and your kludgy solution, and you ask them to address that problem properly (if you couldn't or don't like your solution).

    sometimes i think you just have to invest the effort when your dealership won't. this seems on the surface that you can make some inroads yourself, then perhaps take it back to the dealership, or call corporate to get it fixed.

    good luck.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    The DSPM IS the face of Toyota to the customer so he should have met with you face to face even if he couldn't tell you what you wanted to hear. Have you duplicated the noise for the SM?
    Have you spoken with Toyota National Customer Assistance Center about you issue ? 1-800-331-4331
  • frush93frush93 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Corolla. I plugged in a cell phone charger to the cigarette lighter (I have done this numerous times before) and the radio as well as cigarette lighter attachment no longer works. I checked all the fuses (including the one in the back of the radio) everything looks fine. All other parts of the car are functioning fine except the radio and cigarette lighter attachment. I am willing to buy a new radio, but want to make sure that it's not the wiring or a short circuit causing the problem. Any suggestions? Is there a way to test the power going into the car stereo?
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    Sir, that is a strange problem you have there, I would say get one of those 12 volt testers and check to see if the wire behind the radio and lighter are Hot, and also check the ground wires, if the wires have current it must be your radio, I have a original 98 corolla radio with cassette player in good working condition, I am willing to sell it, email me if your interested, To all who reads this, I am looking for a 4 cyl. engine for my 98 corolla because my #1 piston rod broke and the engine is shot, or if anyone is interested in this car as is, email me to work out a deal, this corolla is all good shape but the engine, only 97300 miles on it, email at alwaysalex1@yahoo.com
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    Is any body intersted in my 98 corolla ,97300 miles, with blown engine ? Or does any one have a 4 cyl. engine that would fit this car that I could buy, email me , alwaysalex1@yahoo.com
  • toyota95corolltoyota95coroll Member Posts: 4
    First off thanks for making this great site where people can share problems regarding their vehicles..for the past 4 weeks iv been trying to deal with a problem with my 95 corolla...First off it was the light problem from the parrking lights...could not find the problem becuase it was not making the parking lights turn on...then repaired it using an external relay, anyways the main problem wich i cant fix is with my engine..First off at cold starts sometimes it starts good sometimes not, at most of the times it smells like gas, and when it does start you step on the gas and the engine stumbles and sometimes dies, as long as it is cold it will start when it is getting a little hot the engine will not start..another thing is the exhaust manifold is broken, i tried repairing that by welding it but no luck, it broke again so will have to get a new one, anyways the other thing is it throws some water from the manifold i was guessing it was because of the broken manifold..im trying to see if it could be the head gasket that the problem..anyone with good tips will be very much appreciated..
  • bcorollabcorolla Member Posts: 9
    I have great news. After speaking to the DSPM I thought I was stonewalled. The agent at the Toyota Experience hotline said that I was free to go to another dealership to get another opinion. And that I did. I went to Wondries Toyota and they quickly assessed the problem. They brought out the Master Technician and did a road test. Within an hour, I got my car back and lost the annoying popping noise in the seat. The technician traced the problem to loose seat track bolts. All they did was resecured the bolts. Presto - No more noise!!! The service advisor said if the noise reappears feel free to bring the car back again. At least I know where the problem is coming from now. If it reappears I'll ask the technician to apply some thread lock to the bolts so that they do not come loose. I'll be sure to call the Toyota Hotline and praise Wondries for the professionalism and prompt service. I am extremely not happy with the run-around that I got at Longo and from the DSPM (his initials are J.K.). I hope Toyota does an evaluation on that DSPM's knowledge on Toyota Service Repairs.
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    Good news bcorolla. Time will tell if they'll have to Locktite the track bolts.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    Cool. Good news.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    I currently own a '99 Corolla which my Daughter wants when she turns 16, which will happen in about 1.5 years. I'm okay with the idea as I think it will make her a reliable car. I've got my eye on our secretary's '03 Corolla 5 speed. She told me she's interested in buying a new Civic and she'd probably be looking to make the move around the time my Daughter turns 16. I know the car is very well taken care of as it goes to the Toyota service dept. for all of its service, which includes every 3K for oil changes. I guess what I need to know is there anything I should know that's different about the '03 model as compared to my '99? Is there anything about them that's problematic? My '99 has been as reliable as a swiss watch.
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