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Comments
i liked mcdawgg's question for specificity myself. i was thinking if the vehicles had optional ABS, maybe it's the ABS doing a self check.
but to be fair to the poster, "the solenoid" isn't a proper problem diagnosis from someone. what solenoid?
ya know, maybe we can have a place somewhere on Edmunds or Carspace where people can upload and link to .WAV or other popular audio sample files.
hey, maybe an audio problem sleuthing contest opportunity:
1). For five points, identify the noise.
2). For an additional five points, identify the vehicle.
Is your Corolla a 2006 as well? I am hoping the problems was confined to a third party seat vendor to Toyota for only a certain period of time. If so, later frames may have the problem corrected. Did you also have the problem in the front passenger seat. We do not use that seat much but it feels loose when applying forward and backward pressure to the seat back? Thanks again I am hoping I can find a couple more people who have this same defect. This will allow me to make a better case to the dealer to replace both front seats. Other than the seats, my Corolla seems like a great piece of automotive equipment. I have gone from a $330 (Ford F-150)per month gas expense on my 80 mile round trip daily to about $80 per month with the Corolla. But I sure miss my truck
I have a 96 corolla. One of my rear lights will go off. I've tried to change the bulb but when I play with it, the light will come on. It seems like there is something wrong with the wires. Any idea where I can get a schematic of the wiring to follow it to see if there are problems? Or is this a problem that is way to complicated for me and needs professional help?
You might try to clean it with a non-metallic pad like scotch-brite or some wet-dry sandpaper wrapped around a pencil end....then blow out the debris and try the bulb again. (remove the bulb first of course, but clean the bulb base as well).
If the bulb goes on and off when you jiggle the wires behind it, that's almost for sure a bad plug-in, or connector.
there has to be a means for air to be displaced by the gas entering the tank obviously. if the filler tube is crimped, or the vent is not operating properly then that air cannot be displaced and the tank won't fill; the pump handle will shut off flow as if the tank were "full".
your evap system is part of the emissions controls and may be covered for a longer period than other systems on your car. you might call around and see if it's under warranty. or look in your warranty booklet.
I will try that. If that works it will save me a lot of money.
however, when you have electrical contacts barely touching one another, not with the proper amount of surface contact and pressure, what tends to happen is you get resistive heating and tiny localized arcing, because resistance tends to be the reciprocal of cross-sectional area (i think if i remember correctly). anyway, i wager you probably saw some dark flakey debris around the contact points... probably oxidized metal, probably as a result of arcing. and when you start getting that, guess what? it tends to get worse and increase the resistance and you get further arcing at that location, until you get a good intermittent contact.
mechanical vibration of a bulb that isn't properly seated in a socket can also result in intermittents. as a circuit is made and broken, you'll get... arcing, and same process described above, until connection breakdown.
where else might you see this in action?
for you homeowners who may dabble in wiring, well, in my experience, resistive heating is a problem when people wire lots of AC receptacles in their home on one long run, and when they use the metal "quick"-stabs on the back of the AC sockets rather than taking the time to use the screw terminals for holding the wires firmly in place and in contact with the connectors of the socket.
situate a good load like a vaccum cleaner, iron, or a laser printer at the end of that long line, and that current draw really places a stress on those mechanical stab connectors. over-time, the circuit can become intermittent or it could fail to supply proper voltage to the product being used.
so buy some new bulbs (i like replacing mine in pairs side-to-side so light intensity is equivalent on the right/left because bulbs are same manufacturer / same lot).
verify they are operational after they are mechanically shown to you to be well inserted and held firmly in their sockets.
I only wanted this car til the end of the year and purchase a new one. Sometimes I think this inspection stuff is ridiculous.
I have an 06 corrolla and accidentally hit something with the front. There's this plastic piece under my front light that broke off so its lowered and is off center...there's also a dent beside it. How much do you think it would cost to fix it?
dent:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h121/wwjjd123/136908143_446643941_0.jpg
off-center light:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h121/wwjjd123/136908423_446644941_0.jpg
other (normal) side:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h121/wwjjd123/136908467_446645112_0.jpg
thanks so much!
Its city milage is only 21 MPG.<
Can someone guide me what maintenance is required to improve the City MPG
Do i need to the 60K maintenance ?
Looking for help on possible reasons for this problem and how to fix it. Frankly, I would be satisfied to just get the center differential free (unegaged) again as I rarely use this car in snow/ice.
thx - boyd
thanks for your excellent post!!!
i've had this same issue (i have an 03 CE) and i never knew what was causing it (as the battery, starter, alternator all checked out okay). within the last week, this has happened to me 3 times. i couldn't - for the life of me - figure out the problem.... until i saw your post!
i went to weather.com and sure enough, the 3 times it happened, the low temperture for that night was under 15 F. The other nights when it didn't happen, the low was above.
i dropped the car off at my dealership this afternoon and the guys there thought i was crazy because i said, "the lights were on and drained my battery, but the switch control inside the car was set to off."
i'll let them know what you posted to expedite the repairs.
i'm so glad you posted the part numbers as well. very much appreciated.
YOU DA MAN!!!!
Best Regards
If the starter motor won't spin the engine over at all, the battery is a good bet. Oil doesn't "freeze" but it can get thick enough to strain an old battery.
If the engine turns over very slowly but doesn't start, the battery could be weak. It should start with a jump.
If the engine cranks and cranks and the engine won't fire up, then it's not a battery problem but an ignition or fuel problem.
Ignition problems or a lack of current to the injectors is more difficult to diagnose by yourself and requires a mechanic to check that out.
If your problem is on again, off again, that makes it harder to figure out, certainly.
Now....if the car will start with a boost....then it's possible that your battery is too weak to give the engine a good spin....a lazy battery won't turn the engine fast enough for a start in very severe cold.
Any suggestions or advice are welcome. Thanks in advance. :sick:
I have a brand new 2007 Corolla CE that is exhibiting this seat noise at approx ~1500 miles. The seat makes a popping noise on acceleration/deceleration and when the seat back is moved back and forth. The noise is extremely annoying and poses as a safety concern. I feel that the seat will give in the event of an accident causing more injury/harm to the passenger. I have had the car for 2 months now. I brought it to Longo Toyota (El Monte, California) twice for 2 determinations for the seat problem. The first time, the technician didn't diagnose the problem correctly. The second time the service department threw the problem over the fence for Toyota Corporate to deal with. They let the District Service and Parts Manager (DSPM) evaluate the problem. The Toyota DSPM determined he was able to duplicate the same noise in the seat I have encountered and is deeming this condition as NORMAL as compared with LIKE models. Furthermore, the DSPM added that the seat is operating as DESIGNED. Hence, the Dealership and the DSPM will not do anything to alleviate the seat problem. I will most likely submit a claim to the California Dispute Service for arbitration. Please acknowledge if anyone has encountered such a hassle.
Your next step--tell them to show you that it's normal by showing you it exists in other vehicles just like yours.
When I had mine done there was nothing visibly wrong with the seat frame but it cured the problem for about 10,000 miles.
After you had the frame replaced, was the noise any different? My observation is that the noise is coming from a loose height adjustment lever. If you are exhibiting it too then it's a poor design or a flaw in the assembly chain. What else have you done to resolve seat the problem?
I just spoke with the DSPM (district service and parts manager in the El Monte, Ca district) from Toyota. He compared my new vehicle to other Corollas. According to him, the seat is operating under the tolerances/variances of the design and henceforth, the seat is not warrantable. Furthermore he said that the same noise was found even in Camry's. I am totally unhappy with the quality of my Toyota. I will be submitting a claim to the National Center for Dispute Settlement and California Dispute Settlement. I urge you all to call the Toyota Customer Experience Center at (800)331-4331 and report your seat problems. I am real worried about the safety risks involved with a loose seat that Toyota refuses to repair.
quality. doing right by the customer. this is what toyota strives for, right?
why don't you have someone you think is mechanically savvy drive the vehicle while you listen from the back seat location, and as the car is put thru it's paces to replicate the problem, you try to sleuth the location of the sound.
then you drive and have that person perform the same steps and see if you converge on the probable cause.
perhaps, there is some fitting or some metal to metal contact or other in the seat or positioning mechanicals that you can lubricate or modify (rubber bumper, foam, electrical tape, adjustment) to mitigate the problem.
then you go into the dealership and you point blank tell them they a really poor excuses for diagnosticians and repair people. :sick:
no - just kidding.
you show them your findings and your kludgy solution, and you ask them to address that problem properly (if you couldn't or don't like your solution).
sometimes i think you just have to invest the effort when your dealership won't. this seems on the surface that you can make some inroads yourself, then perhaps take it back to the dealership, or call corporate to get it fixed.
good luck.
Have you spoken with Toyota National Customer Assistance Center about you issue ? 1-800-331-4331