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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • broncobillybroncobilly Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 1997 corolla I have to replace the rear seat and backrest. Does anybody know how to activate the switch to unclip the backrest??? There are two magnetic switches behind the backrest - how do you unlock them?????? Please help :confuse: :cry:
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    Where is everybody?
  • kenymkenym Member Posts: 405
    Everybody left for greaner pastures. The new format was a killer :sick:
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    From your posts in the Software discussion, I know you know that this is not the place for this conversation, but I gotta tell you that you're way off the mark. Overall, with a few tweaks after the debut, we're experiencing great success with the new format.

    Come to the Software discussion if you want to discuss this. :)
  • pite0007pite0007 Member Posts: 1
    Recently some vandals decided to break the antenna off my 06 Corolla and in doing so they also cracked the base. Can anyone please help me out and give me some advice on how to replace the antenna? Does the headliner have to be removed, since the antenna is rear-center mounted on the roof? Any advice helps! Thanks!
  • dadof6dadof6 Member Posts: 61
    This is not a Do It Yourself job because of the way the base is mounted & cable is run. Last I knew the antenna assembley that you need is $125 then you have the labor to install it on top of that. Go find yourself a good body shop.
  • jack03jack03 Member Posts: 1
    Going nuts trying to find the source of power for the following.

    Toyota Corolla 1989 SR5 2 dr, manual 1600 2wd

    The wire that energizes the choke heater and the big alt wire (white w/ blue diamonds) has very low voltage, not enough to energize the relay, ....1.6V

    The whole story.
    No power to the above wire at the alt....charge light is on....system is charging 14.6V. The choke only gets 1.4V, I am certain it needs much more.

    All fuses have been checked with a test light. Fuseable links are fine, the splice under the battery is okey dokey, there is a toyota service bulletin #0246AP, but I cannot locate a version to read.

    If I jump power to either side of the 7.5A engine control fuse the choke heater works, the charge light is off...

    Have done the: key on engine off test of alt wires.

    Sure would appreciate any assistance on this from someone in the know....I betcha it is pretty simple.
    Thanks
    Jack
  • dandman1dandman1 Member Posts: 12
    hi
    ive used the search feature, i see people, like myself, looking to replace the gear selector bulb for a 98 corolla
    but i dont see any answers
    please help, i can get the trim ring off the gear selector, then what?
    thanks
    dan
  • bethclouserbethclouser Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 1997 Toyota Corolla. Everything has been perfect with this car, except that I needed a new battery and three fuses replaced, which I took care of this past Saturday. Yesterday (Sunday) I went and unlocked the car using my key. The car does not have remote keyless entry or an alarm system, although it does have electronic door locks. Anyway, yesterday the doors opened just fine. This morning I went to open the door and the key went in but would not turn! I tried three different copies of the key that I have, all of which worked fine yesterday, but none of them worked today. They still do open the trunk. Could this be another blown fuse? Has anyone else experienced a similar problem? If you have an answer or suggestion for me, I'd really appreciate it if you could drop me a line at bethclouser@yahoo.com. Thanks!
  • bhasinbhasin Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2002 Corolla with 82k miles. I have been told by my dealer to replace the fan belt and quoted $200.

    A local Sears quoted me $110.

    Is there any advantage in getting the dealer replacement?

    Also is $300 each ($600 total) a reasonable price for brakes (front and back). I mean it is a Corolla... so does sound a bit excessive...
  • gerbs1gerbs1 Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at buying an old 1992 Toyota Corolla and whenever it comes to a stop the car stalls..Does anyone know what this might be from???
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    both prices are a total rip off ! find a independent mechanic.
  • bhasinbhasin Member Posts: 11
    Thanks Alex. Independent mechanic quoted 80 for the belt vs ~110 for Sears.

    Havent gotten brakes quote though.

    80-110 ? Sears or independent...?
  • diego7diego7 Member Posts: 1
    I have also a clicking sound in my corrola, but mine is older is a 97, and I can't really tell from where is coming from, I got this car used so I haven't drive long enough and I don't know if this kind of sound is "normal" or not
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    could be an idle control valve issue, a fuel pump/pressure issue, a hose that's come off the ICV, maybe a throttle body problem, or just idle setting issue.
  • dreamchaser321dreamchaser321 Member Posts: 24
    I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla LE with 30,000 miles on it. I've noticed some rattling sound (like something is loose) coming from the right side of the car when I drive on bumpy or uneven roads. The wierd thing is the rattling sound doesn't occur when there is a passenger inside the car. I've taken it to the service department a few times and have been on several test drives with the techniccan but they couldn't find anything wrong. Has anyone else encountered this issue? :confuse:
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    I have read others have had this problem and it was found they had a loose nut or bolt under the seat, it was tightened up and solved the noise problem. hope this helps.
  • raphipps1969raphipps1969 Member Posts: 5
    Trying to keep the ripping and tearing of the plastics to a minimum and like the shorting out idea. i unplugged the aforementioned white plug and it blinked constantly. that indicates to me i found the correct plug. anyway, to short out should i cut the wires and twist together while maintaining the plug in it's current position? i know when i have my seat belt on! thanks for your help. first posting
  • raphipps1969raphipps1969 Member Posts: 5
    I have a totally inconsistant chirping noise coming from either the dash, antenna or possibly the interior hood release. I hear the chirp when i close the door but it responds in different ways and not only to rough roads. It's driving me nuts. short trip. Any ideas? i just recently bought this car and any prior knowledge would be helpful THANKS
  • jazi76jazi76 Member Posts: 4
    I own a 2002 Corolla "S" that has 39,300 miles. I bought the car from Carmx last year.

    In August, the engine broke and was replaced under warranty at no charge to me in Birmingham, AL at about 35,000 miles. I moved to NY and took it to a dealership in November for an 5,000 mile maintenance. I informed them that I got a new engine. The dealership told me that I had to flush my engine because it's dirty as well as a coolant. I called the Toyota dealership In Birmingham and they told me there was no need for a maintenance and the engine & coolant flush was done when the new engine was replaced.

    They give me a new engine but kept the old valves that were in good condition. If they were in old condition they replaced it. So my question is, do I need an engine or coolant flushed?
  • c67c67 Member Posts: 2
    Do you have your heater running when you hear it? My Corolla had an odd chirping noise that came from the dash. It had something in the ductwork for the heater blower.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    If the car got a coolant flush when the engine was replaced, there should be no need to do it again now. And there should be no need for an "engine flush" on a nearly-new engine. I've found some dealers automatically push recommended services (manufacturer's list or the dealer's own list) at specified mileage intervals. So either Toyota or the dealer says that the coolant and engine should be flushed at 30k miles, and that triggered the recommendation. I had a similar thing happen when I brought my 626 into a Mazda dealer for an oil change the other day. The miles were 91k, but I told the dealer that it had had the 60k servicing (very extensive) at 84k, so there was no need for the usual 90k service, just an oil change and tire rotation. But they asked me about it anyway, and even noted on the invoice, "customer declined 90k service."
  • jazi76jazi76 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks. ;)
  • guttapalemguttapalem Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I drive a 2003 Corolla S Automatic, with about 54K miles on it. from past couple of weeks I am having this strange rattling/rumbling noise from either the dashboard or the under the hood (not sure). This noise usually comes only when I put it in DRIVE and press the Break pedal, which means I am just standing/parking. The noise goes off immediately if I change to PARK. So essentially noise is only when I am at a halt with transmission in DRIVE and the break pedal pressed.
    Any help/direction I can get, as to where that noise may be coming from and what I can do to fix it,is appreciated.
  • raphipps1969raphipps1969 Member Posts: 5
    I THINK I've figured it out. The engine was replaced in this car and the hood was not properly adjusted, concerning the latching, causing it to vibrate in high winds and bumps. This caused the noise in the driver's side near the windshield. The info you provided is extremely valuable for present and future reference as once again i'm not sure that's the problem. Thank you very much for your response
  • raphipps1969raphipps1969 Member Posts: 5
    My corolla is a 2000 so this may not be relevant, but I have experienced the same condition on a few occasions. It seems like if the electric fan kicks in and the wheel is slightly turned with the combination of the brakes being depressed it causes enough of a reduction in the idle speed to cause a slight exhaust difference that can be annoying. Don't really think it means anything. Could be wrong
  • bhasinbhasin Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2002 Corolla CE and the brakes (front and rear) need replacement as verified by a dealer and independent mechanic.

    I see pricing all over the place with 89 specials from Midas per brake to 300 for dealer?

    What is a reasonable price and what should i look for in the lower price?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    If you want quiet brakes that will last as long as the originals, get OEM pads on it only, do not put Midas pads on it. Midas and most other aftermarket pads are not that good, compared to originals (OEM). You could get OEM pads from the Toyota dealer or parts places on the net and have an independent mechanic do it to save $.
  • binh1957binh1957 Member Posts: 3
    My car, Toy Corolla 93 did not pass state inspection on NOx limit ( limit 3.25, my car reads 3.42 ) Somebody knows how to fix this problem please let me know. Thanks.
  • binh1957binh1957 Member Posts: 3
    Read a manual it will show you how to reset this warning.
    I did reset my mini van. Every time you change or rotate your tire, you have to reset.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Could be a lot of things but the usual suspect is the EGR system (Exhaust Gas Recirculation).

    Also a car that is overheating will cause this, and also a car with lots of carbon buildup in the cylinders (too high a reading when you take a compression test).
  • bob157bob157 Member Posts: 1
    I know what the light is and means. I want to know how to turn it out. I have been to the dealer twice and he has showed me, but he did it so fast that I could not write it down and could not remember how he did it by the time I got home. I change my own oil and oil filter. Toyota also says I should use Toyota Oil Filters. They claim it has a valve that prevents oul from draining back down to oil pan when you stop the engine, which prevents dry oil start ups.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Bob, look in your owners manual to reset the oil change indication, it will tell you how to do it. The latest Camry has a process where you use the TripA odometer reset, with a turning ignition key on and off sequence. Your Corolla may be different, but it's always documented in the manual.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,147
    My friend's new 06 Corolla had the front bumper bumped in parallel parking today while at the theatre. It sprung the part of the bumper that is the front of the right wheel well and broke a clip about 1.5 inch square at the top next to the car metal fender.

    Should she go to the Toyota body shop to see if they repair that clip and put the pieces back into the snapin location or should she just try a standard body shop? There is NO damage to the bumper's paint. It looks like they hit the front license plate area and just nudged it and the right side flexed.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think any good body shop can do this. The dealer probably sends it out anyway to a subcontractor.
  • binh1957binh1957 Member Posts: 3
    I want to buy toyota 4Runner limited 2007. If somebody bought already please let me know how much I will pay. Thanks for your help.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You can find out what others are paying in this discussion: Toyota 4Runner: Prices Paid & Buying Experience. Also, you might be interested in some of the other discussions in the 4Runner group.

    Good luck!
  • tcbin07tcbin07 Member Posts: 7
    My 2001 Corolla (125K km) has developed a steering vibration at speeds over 65 mph that I've read so much about in this forum. My mechanic tells me the front end is all good, but he did suggest that the sway bar links could need replacing. All the tires were new last year, and they show no signs of unusual wear. I pulled the driver's side front wheel and rotated it to the rear, and checked out the sway bar links on both sides. They look good and were certainly tight to the bar, but they appear to be more of a ball and joint type rather that the bushing type I expected to find. Anyone out there with this problem find a way to resolve it without spending $$$$ replacing things that "might" be the cause of the problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't see any relationship between sway bars and a steering vibration. I'm puzzled your mechanic would suggest such a thing.

    If you get a vibration *at a certain speed* this is a rotational issue of some kind, which limits you to a) rotating wheels/tires; b) rotating axle shafts and c) rotating engine.

    I've listed probably causes in sequence of most likely first.

    MrShiftright
    Visiting Host
  • tcbin07tcbin07 Member Posts: 7
    Yeah, I was puzzled too. I didn't like his solution to this. Plus the sway bar links looked in good shape to me, which is why I asked for advice. I will rotate the tires front to back to see if that makes a difference. The tires on it right now were highly rated when we bought them, but a slight vibration was there with the winter tires we had on, just prior to switching to summers. The tires are definitely the easiest thing to check. Your second cause sounds expensive and I'm hoping I don't have to go there. Thanks for the help.

    Toyota Novice
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Usually any vibration at a set and certain speed is tire related. Generally, axle vibrations will occur all through the speed range. As for harmonic vibrations coming from an engine, usually those are related to mounts, or to improper assembly after a clutch or transmission job.

    good luck with it,

    MrShiftright
    visiting host
  • kenymkenym Member Posts: 405
    When you purchased the tires did you have them balanced? :shades:
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    I have the same problem with my 98 corolla, I tryed everything, they keep telling me its the cheap brand tires I have, that the corolla body is so sensitive it will feel every thing once the tires get worn some, they said I have to get a good brand set of tires that roll perfectly, the vibation is not real bad so I just am waiting till these cheap tires wear out before I go to the cost to buy good tires, I jack my front car off the ground , started the motor put it in low gear and study the tires rotation, they do seem to have a slight woble in them, but up to 1/8 woble is suppose to be aceptable and check my rims same way, and one strange thing, No matter what rim I put on the front left side ,it seems to woble more, where the right side does not,with switching the same rim, can't figure that out cause the axle and bearings all seems good, if any body has any answers I would like to hear them. I also have the same problem with my 97 Honda Accord.
  • tcbin07tcbin07 Member Posts: 7
    Absolutely. And the place we got them from is a reputable tire business. So I'm going to be very surprised if this ends up being just a tire problem.
  • kenymkenym Member Posts: 405
    It really sounds like you have a rim that is out of round. It won't take much to cause that vibration. :shades:
  • jlawrence01jlawrence01 Member Posts: 1,757
    There are a certain number of tires (or batteries) in a lot that are not "quite right". The tires look good, are properly mounted and balanced but vibrate at a higher rate of speed.

    I had that happen on a rental Chevy Malibu a couple of years ago. Brand new. The car ran great up to 45 mph. Over that, there was heavy vibration in the front tire.
  • tcbin07tcbin07 Member Posts: 7
    I hear ya. But don't they usually do a high speed balance on these things when they install them? I guess it's possible that some belt separation or distortion of some kind has occurred, but I'll bet there's less than 5000 km on the new tires. I'm going to make some inquiries as to the tires we bought, and find out if anyone in the family remembers dusting a curb.
  • jlawrence01jlawrence01 Member Posts: 1,757
    You can have a defective belt in a tire from the factory that may not be evident until you drive on the tires for a short difference.
  • corollaownrcorollaownr Member Posts: 5
    I drive a 2003 Toyota Corolla and it has started making a rattling noise when I start the car. What is upsetting about it is that it sounds like a rod, but I don't think that's what it is. When I accelerate, the noise goes away. I keep the oil changed methodically and it isn't time for it to be changed yet. I just want some ideas before I take it to a mechanic and they try to stick it to me by telling me a bunch of junk that needs to be fixed to jack up the price.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    What I do when I have an unknown noise like that, is to take off the serpentine belt and start the engine. That way you can determine whether it is one of the belt driven accessories, or internal to the engine.

    You could have a bearing going bad in an alternator, for instance. I'd suspect water pump, alternator, air conditioner compressor, or even the tensioner pulley.

    If you determine that the noise goes away, turn off the engine and spin the accessories by hand. Wiggle the pulleys of the accessories to see if you can determine which is bad.

    I've used this diagnostic approach on two of my vehicles in the last year. One was a water pump beginning to go bad. Another was a tensioner pulley.

    Good luck.
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