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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • yusuf2173yusuf2173 Member Posts: 14
  • JDM5LugHatchJDM5LugHatch Member Posts: 30
    Try some dri gas and change the plugs and wires. Might also need a new distributor cap and rotor. All pretty inexpensive and easy to change. Once you have gone through the dri gas throw a can of BG 44k in the tank. Should help clean the injectors.
  • regartnobregartnob Member Posts: 4
    I have an 07 and 2010 Corolla which 'wander'. Replaced tires on 07, checked wheels & alignment and for damaged suspension--problem continues. One person said it's due to solid rear axle-- no remedy. (Worst-handling FWDs I've had!) Anyone else notice this? any success in making these things track reliably?
  • 2009buyer2009buyer Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2009 Corolla. I am at the 10,000 mile oil change, thought it was every 5,000 miles. Is that incorrect?

    I am having trouble getting around having the dealership do the oil change as it is a min 2 hour wait and they charge $49 for a simple oil change. So for this second scheduled oil change, went to a local vendor. They replaced the oil, then when they tried looking for a filter said that they did not have the right filter and a special tool to change out the old filter.

    So I have half an oil change. I bought a filter at auto store and they said you have to get the special tool at the dealership. Called the dealership, they said they are not allowed to sell the special tool that Toyota provides them with and I would have to pay for a full oil change. Called another Toyota dealership, they said there is no special tool, you just have to have the right kind of wrench. No one knows where to buy this wrench and the dealership won't tell me what kind it is.

    I am determined even more not to be ripped off by the dealer, The dealer said if I do not replace this filter before the next change, my warranty is voided. They went on and on about if there is engine trouble the manufacturer will require receipts for all work done on the car not at the dealership and it voids the warranty of I do not have them.

    Anyone out there have some advice on this?
  • dkvndkvn Member Posts: 14
    Good morning
    We have signed the contract to dump my old minivan and buy a new Corolla. We are exiting to wait for the C4C money.

    The dealer did not mentioned about College Grad Rebate Program. We did sign the contract w/o knowing about it last Wednesday.

    Now, I just suddenly found out about the $1000 College Grad Rebate Program. How can I do to get it. The car is in two names and both my wife and I are eligible for it (She graduated BS this year, and I am finishing my MS)

    Could someone please advice what should I do. My mistake is not to research well b4 buying the car. Like most people, we were driven to the dealer because of the C4C

    Thank you all, have great Sunday
  • JDM5LugHatchJDM5LugHatch Member Posts: 30
    Who did the alignment? Did it not track properly when you bought it? Our '04 doesn't wander at all. What you may be noticing is the corolla seems to be extremely light on the road and it gets blown around very easily. After experiencing this on a bridge with really strong winds I decided it was time to lower the wife's car. Not lowered on the ground by any means. Just a small 1" drop on some Eibach Pro Kit springs and it was a completely different car. It's been lowered for about 4 or 5 years. I would have your alignment redone by a place that specializes in alignments. Make sure that the Toe is set to 0 degrees and maybe -.5 to -1 degree camber. It should give you a very neutral feel. If you decide that you might want to try the lowering route only go with the TRD (Toyota OEM parts) springs or Eibach Pro Kit. Eibach usually makes most of the auto manufacturers springs as it is.
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    Got this from another toyota forum
    ==============================================================
    65mm 14 flute from NAPA for $8.99
    or
    SST 09228-06500-02 from http://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=877

    don't use a combination 65/67mm one as they dont grip 100%

    Your dealer is definitely ripping you off...My dealer charges about $38 for a complete change and checkup and I thought that was high (western USA). Heck, My dealer even sells a 3rd party oil wrench for the 09 Corolla at their parts dept ...On a display rack no less!!!

    NON XRS 09 rolla engine, you may find this thread interesting...step by step changing with info!
    http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=244334
    Good luck...But be careful, I understand the filter housing is mostly plastic (as is the rest of the car ..LOL)

    BTW: DO KEEP ALL RECEIPTS AND A DETAILED LOG OF YOUR WORK...THEY WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY, GIVEN THE SHOT!
  • shorteeshortee Member Posts: 6
    So if we do get oil changes at other places instead of the dealer and still have all the receipts from it can the dealer still void our warranty if something goes wrong with the car? :confuse:
  • regartnobregartnob Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for your reply. I have taken the 07 to 2 places, the second being recommended as specialists in alignments in a metro area of 500,000, after putting new tires on it (I thought maybe the tires had some bad cords!) Since both cars seem to be poor tracking fairly consistently, I question whether it's the wind--it can't be that windy all the time! (my fwd minivan was more stable with 323,000 miles on it than these 2 vehicles are.) Today with the '10 traveling on a concrete interstate, the normal rain grooves in the concrete seemed to be making it be very erratic and unpredictable. I'll try the realignment specs you suggested on the 07. Thanks.
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    So if we do get oil changes at other places instead of the dealer and still have all the receipts from it can the dealer still void our warranty if something goes wrong with the car?
    ===========================================================
    Not really... (I am NOT an attorney!) From my observations in my area, the aftermarket places are about the same price as the dealer....If the dealer does the work and something happens....they are on the hook!

    If you use factory equivalent parts (oil and filter for example) and have ALL receipts. You can buy oem toyota filters on ebay by the case and even if you buy one at a time at retail, they are cheap (canister NOT screw on on the 2009 and up Corollas!)

    If you have a screw in model and the place uses a cheapo screw in filter and it fails....I think you would be dead in the long run...ie: fram uses cardboard endcaps and really poor return valves) Those quickie places also use the bottem rung parts!
    If they check and you did not use a proper oil (dino or syn) or the wrong filter type no "O" ring for example or a cross threaded drain plug (common at those quick chg places! you are in for trouble

    Of course there are always loopholes...Believe me they would probably try! With the economy the way it is, who knows what a rotten dealer (or manufacturer) would try and just how serious they think you are


    Personally, I will not give any dealer a chance, and have my routine work done at the dealership where I bought it! It's just not worth a battle to me
    Suggest you do a search for Magnesson Moss warranty act But remember...they have more money to fight you than you have!

    ALSO CHECK THE TERMS OF YOUR WARRANTY...THE ABOVE ACT IS FEDERAL!!!!!
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Dealer is lying - I'd never go to them. You DO NOT have to get the oil change done at a Toyota dealer. You DO have to have receipts/records to prove that the work was done. You can even do this yourself, if you change the oil, by having the receipts for the oil and filter, and writing in a log when you did the oil change and what the mileage was. The dealer CAN sell you this oil filter wrench, or you can buy it at a good autoparts store.
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    I forgot to tell you about the Maint req light in the dash that will start blinking as you approach each 5000mi oil chg interval....here are reset instructions, but you should also check your manual and do the checks recommended IMHO. NOTE...THE RECOMMENDED CHG is 5000 MI OR 5 MOS WHICH EVER COMES FIRST. SEVERE CONDITIONS....3000 MI! ALSO IN THE MANUAL

    "to reset the "Maint Req" light in the 2009 Corolla, the TRIP A odometer must be chosen before turning the key off. Then depress the trip odometer button and hold it before and after turning the key back on (but not starting the motor).
    With the trip odometer button still pressed, a series of dashes will appear, followed by several zeroes. The Maint Req light will now be off."

    THIS INFO ALSO IN YOUR MANUAL!
  • 2009buyer2009buyer Member Posts: 15
    Thanks to everyone for your information and support. I live in a rural area and have tried the two dealers within this area, neither of which will provide the wrench or even tell me how to get it. So I will check out your suggestions and let you all know.

    I have a concern about the dealer as they make their $$$ off the sales in repair under warranty. I have had problems in the past with what seemed to be unscrupulous dealers and that is a big part of my not wanting to have work done there.

    I had another make of car for 16 years and never had the air conditioning serviced. No freon added, etc. Never any problem with it either. All my other cars I would take it for a check and they always found something that HAD to be done or it would supposedly cause BIG $$$ problems if I didn't. So I try to stay away from dealers. I wish I had not purchased a new car. Didn't get any clunker rebate either!
  • gizzer777gizzer777 Member Posts: 335
    I believe that the dealer is just reimbursed from Toyota for warranty work/parts at Toyota's pricing! In SEVERE cases or bigger disputes...your dealer can be asked to call for a factory Rep...

    IN YOUR CASE I WOULD CALL TOYOTA CORP AND MAKE THE REQUEST AS WELL...THEY WILL ALSO GIVE YOU A CASE NUMBER!!! (only in case of big stuff...not for lightbulbs etc LOL)

    dealers make their bucks from out of warranty, extras, and things like oil changes!!! Yours sounds like a nightmare!

    Check out www.toyotanation.com direct link to 2009 and up Corollas is: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=149

    for very valuable info, that covers tons of stuff. It is a free forum and joining (if you want to post or ask questions etc) is FREE! or you can just lurk and learn! A lot of times you will also learn about TSB's (tech service bulletins) that are not usually made public.....Lots of knowledgeable folks there that enjoy sharing!
  • aimeedevaimeedev Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 Corolla and the Ac has in the past only two or three times not come on and then a day or so later come on by itself, I never worried since it only happened once in a blue moon but lately it wont come on and then after I have been driving for about 10 minutes or so it may come on like normal, and lately not at all- the vent won't even come on for outside air.. The knobs and temperature work normally when it does come on I can control the air no problem, anyone know why this is or what it could be?
  • 4barrel4barrel Member Posts: 4
    Try the ac compressor clutch relay. A very common failure.
  • aimeedevaimeedev Member Posts: 3
    thank you I will check it!
  • aimeedevaimeedev Member Posts: 3
    I went to Napa auto parts and the tech said it sounds simple like a switch but to be sure that I should go to the auto shop convieniently located behind them so I went to the automotive place and within 2 seconds the mechanic came back and said it is my blower motor, he said he banged it and it started working but that my motor was bad and I need to replace it which would cost 200+ dollars. I just wondered if I am being taken for a ride, right now the AC works but I am sure it will go out again and I was wondering if I should give in and take it back to the mechanic and get the new motor or take it somewhere else for a second opinio.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    If it is just a blower motor, the part is about $70 and it takes about 30 minutes tops to change it. VERY easy, right behind the glove box.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Picked up a 1992 Corolla to add to my collection. I have a 2001, 2009 and now a 1992. I wish I still had my 1979 I got rid of in 1990. Anyway,the gentleman I purchased the car from said he never had the timing belt changed. The cars has 102,000 original miles on it. I believe the 1992 Corolla's were the last year to have the belts and then they went to chains. My question is, am I correct that this year Corolla was a non-interference engine? If it is, am I correct that I could drive this "92" until the belt actually broke with no internal engine damage? I believe the valves and the pistons won't collide in a non-interference engine if the timing belt breaks.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    93-97 Corollas also had a belt. I believe that the 89-92 and 93-97 engines were non-interference. If the belt breaks you are stranded, but you won't have a wrecked engine.
  • 2009buyer2009buyer Member Posts: 15
    In trying to set the trip meter in the area where the odometer is, I am not able to get the miles driven to show up again. Called the dealership and they want me to come in for a service to reset it. Any one out there know how to get this taken care of? It is a large number 3 showing in the area where the miles driven was and can not get it out. The owner's manual shows the number 3 but does not say what it means or how to clear it.
  • biker4biker4 Member Posts: 746
    Has anyone had an issue with the 60K/60mo powertrain warranty? Not the basic 36/36 one. I'm looking to buy an 07 Matrix and the previous owner had a coil/spark plug replaced at 39K and Toyota wouldn't cover it. What is excluded from the powertrain warranty?
  • corollaownrcorollaownr Member Posts: 5
    I drive a 2003 Toyota Corolla and it has begun to miss a little when I'm on the road. I also noticed when I would start the car that it would start by turning over slowly then would speed up. Last night, it wouldn't start at all and I thought that it was the battery, but all the lights were on and they didn't dim when I would try to turn the motor on. There was no clicking noises.....nothing. Someone tested the battery and said it was fully charged. My son came and pushed me home......and when I got the car into the garage, it started like nothing happened. Anybody have any ideas as to what is causing this?
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Spark plugs and coils and other engine parts are not part of the powertrain. Powertrain parts are basically the transmission and the drivetrain.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, and you have to read the fine print on your warranty.

    But I think this is what you want:

    TOYOTA POWERTRAIN WARRANTY
  • kaimukikaimuki Member Posts: 1
    1988 Toyota Corolla 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 130000 miles

    I have oil leaking along the distributor shaft into the cap, then out and onto the trans and ground. I've already had the distributor off and replaced the o-ring on the shaft, but I'm told there is another o-ring or seal on the shaft. I'm pretty sure this is the oil leak, is it do-able? I'm pretty handy but not much experience on Toyotas (not that their distributors are any different than other cars).

    Next, left side power steering rack seal is bad. Can the seal be replaced without taking the rack out of the car, does it make sense to replace only one seal or should I put in a reman rack?
  • ifixit2ifixit2 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone have a solution for removing a stuck rear hub assembly on a 2003 Corolla? So far tapping with hammer and applying penetrating oil have not worked. I am replacing the hub so any damage in removing it would not be a problem.
    Could sure use some good advice on this.
    Thanks">link title
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    The handbrake is not on, right? Or are you talking about something completely different?
  • JDM5LugHatchJDM5LugHatch Member Posts: 30
    The trick is this.... Find the hole/s on the front of the of the drum cover. Now get a long machine bolt that's slightly larger than the hole. Now if you have air tools you can run the bolt in through the hole with an impact wrench and the drum cover will pop right off. If no air tools a good drill might do the trick. Learned that from a friend whom does inspections a long time ago and it has worked every time for me.
  • jupiter66jupiter66 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 corola s. There is relay clicking coming from under the dash behind steering column area, randomly, and persistent. It is very annoy. I having trouble pin point it out. It only clicking when traveling 65 mph+. Can't get get under the dash to see while the car is moving. It got to be a relay???? What are the possible relays in the area the will be clicking on high speed only. Anybody have have the same issue, or any idea please help?
  • yusuf2173yusuf2173 Member Posts: 14
    Hello I have a 1993 corolla, that after i let it warm up for a while and then start driving it the cold air hits the engine and then the temp gauge goes back down to cold and the air gets only luke warm but then when I stop the car and let it warm up for a while the car will simply heat back up. but then once again after it is driven it will cool off again no more warm air. Anyone advise.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    Sounds like your thermostat may be stuck open. Try replacing it with a new one.
  • quattro44quattro44 Member Posts: 1
    New here. Thanks for reading.

    2001 Corolla CE. Recently after a day of driving off and on, the car would not start. No lights, no dinging with the key in the ignition, no clicking from a dead battery, nothing at all. Tried to turn it over a few times, nothing. Called my wife to come and give me a jump start, and a couple minutes later it started just fine before she arrived.

    Today, same story, but the car had been sitting for a couple of hours. This time I was parked nose-in to some concrete barriers. When I turned the key, I heard the sound of a crotch rocket motorcycle revving from a mile off. Kind of a whine that lasts a few seconds, then dies. Waited about 5 minutes, and the car started fine.

    In both cases, the stations programmed in the radio were reset to the factory defaults, and the digital dash clock reset. Just like I have disconnected the battery.

    I've never had a problem of this type (other big ones) from this car. I enjoy working on my cars, but I've never been that great at diagnosing electrical issues.

    Any ideas? Thanks!
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Well the most obvious place to start would be to remove and clean your battery terminals and reattach.
    By the way there is a thread called "Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair"

    Good Luck, keep us informed as I myself have an "01"LE.
  • cla10beckcla10beck Member Posts: 5
    I was reading the post, and I know it is almost a year old, but I am having the same issue with my 2003 Corolla. A grinding type noise when the car is cold, and it goes away when it warms up. I took it to the shop and they said it was the belt tensioner, but I don't believe that based on the noise and where it is coming from.

    Were you able to find the cause?
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Perhaps you should have listened to the Toyoa Technicians as there were many TSB reports issued concerning the Belt Tensioners on the 2000 up to 2006 Toyota Corollas. They should have offered to replace this $150 to $200 tensioner at no cost to you because of the warning of malfunction issued about your vehicle via the TSB..
  • blue987blue987 Member Posts: 1
    So the speaker on the passerby side isn't working. I'm guessing it has something to do with the wiring. How do I open up the door panel and see what's wrong?

    I don't know anything about cars so respond like I don't. Thanks.
  • cla10beckcla10beck Member Posts: 5
    They sure didn't offer to replace the part. What did the the TSB warning say? Are they required to replace the part? I don't have any issue replacing it myself, but won't if they will cover it. I haven't gotten around replacing because it only happens when it is cold. The noise has started again.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    You might want to follow this link to read all of the TSB's for the 2004 Toyota Corolla and then take it to your dealer and ask him about what they are doing about the know problem? I know when my tensioner went bad in my 2001 Corolla I received a letter directly from Toyota and it was replaced totally for free.

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbresults_drilldown.cfm?start=1&- - SearchType=DrillDown&type=VEHICLE&year=2004&make=TOYOTA&model=COROLLA&&TYPENUM=1- - &SUBMIT=Retrieve+Recalls&PrintVersion=YES
  • jtackettjtackett Member Posts: 2
    I have an 2003 with 130,000 miles and have had no problems with this car at all. Yesterday the car started rough. Thinking the battery, I checked the water levels and added some water. It will not start at all now. Battery checks ok and the started has been bench tested. Any suggestions?
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    When you say "started rough", I'll assume it started, but idled rough. New plugs lately? Iridium and Platinum plugs good for about 100,000/120,000 miles. Plug wires? Clean battery terminals?
  • jtackettjtackett Member Posts: 2
    The starter had a hard time starting the car. It ran fine after I got it started. New plugs at 100,000 miles. Battery terminals clean. Plug wires good. Power to starter, will check solenoid in the am. Counter guy at Advance auto stated that even if "bench checked" need to know output of starter. If 10ohms output should be around 70ohms so still could be starter.
  • jim_dandyjim_dandy Member Posts: 94
    "Toyota issued the largest recall in company history, affecting 3.8 million vehicles dating back to 2004".

    http://www.leftlanenews.com/a-closer-look-at-toyotas-sudden-acceleration-problem- - .html

    They designed a car with out a kill switch and a poorly designed accelerator pedal, and then blame it on the car owner which installs a floormat and not aware of the 3 second kill delay?
    Not so "Smart"

    Here are some additional information about Toyota's quality and engineering practices:

    "Consumer groups are watching and If the allegations are correct that Toyota destroyed or withheld (electronic) data, it has the potential to reopen hundreds of Toyota rollover cases."

    http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2009-09-01-rollover-lawsuits-toyota_N.htm

    "Consumers saddled with sludge-clogged Toyota engines may soon get some help from the Japanese auto giant under the terms of a class-action lawsuit settlement that covers roughly3.5 million Toyota and Lexus vehicles damaged by engine oil sludge."

    http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2007/01/toyota_sludge_settlement.html

    jd
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    JD, the mat recall was for Camrys not Corollas, perhaps you might want to post that on the Camry forum.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    He posted there too.
  • cla10beckcla10beck Member Posts: 5
    We'll, Perhaps I should have trusted my gut instead of acting on the diagnosis of the Toyota techs. I replaced the belt tensioner, and the grinding noise that occurs when cold still happens. Once the car warms up, it is fine, and in warm weather there is not issue. It sounds like it is coming from the passenger floorboard area

    Has anybody had a similar issue?
  • obispoobispo Member Posts: 1
    Howdy! I have a 2000 Corolla that has difficulty starting if it has been sitting too long in the heat. If you wait 2-3 minutes, it's fine and will not die on the road, but if you try to drive immediately after starting up, it will shudder and die. Flooring it does not work, you have to feather the gas. I just had the spark plugs replaced, a small oil leak fixed, and the catalytic converter replaced- nothing helped. I've heard compression and vapor lock theories...but have no idea- the mechanic kept it for 2 days and couldn't figure it out. Any information would be so greatly appreciated! :D
  • rlhoundsrlhounds Member Posts: 3
    Hi There,
    I had the same problem (heck of a time starting it again in the heat and after it had just been running fine) and through alot of troubleshooting different suggestions, we finally pinpointed it to the contacts in the starter? alternator? yikes, forget which one now and my husband isn't home for a week. But anyway, that's a start for you, there was 2 out of the 3 contacts that were fried.
  • rlhoundsrlhounds Member Posts: 3
    Oops, now that I remember a little more, we had the whole part replaced that contain the 'contacts', it's a part shaped like prawn. Sorry if this confuses you but I wanted to try and help you out as we had quite the headache narrowing down the problem. Thankfully we have good friends that know their alternators and starters and we got the part at cost. Expense was $100.00 even.
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