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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    I had a problem that sounds like you describe in my (2004) Corolla. It doesn't happen very often, but it does happen. Since your car is still under warranty let your dealer have a look at it.
  • I've had zero problems until last night.. first cold one of the year btw.. got about 6 blocks from work and my car suddenly lunged, lost power and the engine light turned on.. i thought.. is my car stalled? when I tried to restart it it acted like I was out of gas, when the gas peddle is down the rpm's only go to 2.. it will idle for about 30 sec. and then die. I put more gas in it to see if it was out, and could only get it about another block.. Im totally perplexed. any suggestions? fuel pump? filter? worse? 56,000 miles... 3 years old.. what is a girl to do?
  • Sounds like the car is running in limp/safe mode almost but it's not. Is there a CEL (check engine light)? It could be several things but the most common causes could be one of the following... MAF (mass air-flow sensor), Fuel Pump or water in the gas, ECU, or a loose Ground Wire. You could try a bottle of Dry Gas and see if that fixes it. Also, if there is a CEL you need to pull the code for it as it will help to point you in the right direction.

    Things it could also be but are highly unlikely for the symptoms it's exhibiting. If it were an O2 sensor the car would still run but it would do so like crap and gas mileage would definitely have started to suffer prior to it's failure and you would definitely have a CEL. If it were a bad spark plug or coil pack the car should still run just not well again and you should have a CEL indicating a Misfire on one or more cylinders same as a faulty fuel injector. If it were say a bad alternator and battery all at once the car would have just died and probably wouldn't have had enough battery life for the dome/interior lights to turn on.

    To be honest you really need to look for a CEL and hook up a scanner. There might even be pending codes that will be helpful. If there is one report back to us and we might be able to point you in the right direction. Otherwise you need to get the car to a shop to let them diagnose and fix it for you.
  • after all the research I was convinced it was the ECU.. had it towed to a dealership near by.. sure enough that was it.. seems like corollas have this issue.. I was surprised they had the part on hand.. it was under warantee which is good. Thank you so much for your responce!
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,680
    Yes, there definitely was a bad batch of ECUs. I have read and heard of this problem. Fortunately, I think it is under the emissions warranty, which is 8 years, I think 80,000 miles.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,900
    Yes ECUs are under the 80K warranty because they control the Onboard Diagnostic Functions.

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  • Hello

    I have a 2004 Corolla CE with 73000 miles. Have been using 87 grade fuel on it. After 60000 miles I started to notice some knocking during acceleration at low speeds. I upgraded the fuel to 89/90 grade and the knocking is reduced.
    Have also used fuel system cleaners occasionally.

    a) I am curious as to why the knocking started at higher mileage
    b) Spark plug change is required at 120,000 but not sure if this could be the cause
    c) Could it need just a fuel system flush
    d) Fuel filter changing?
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Don't know your home location but it could be due to the extra winter fuel additives in the gasoline for the winter season reducing the effectivness of the gasoline on your motor.
  • My son has a 1998 corolla. 70000 miles. Lost the maintenance book. Can you tellme when he should get the transmissiion fluid changed? Probably by now but has had no problems.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    If he hasn't up to this point, now is a good time. I would suggest around 60K normally. Don't let them talk you into a drain, flush and refill. Best for the tranny is just a drain and refill. So many people have trouble after the trannys are flushed.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You can check all the maintenance requirements here: Maintenance Schedules, Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins.

    Hope this helps!
  • I've noticed that you have made this recommendation many times. Can you tell me exactly what type of trouble you are referring to? It would seem to me that if you are going to drain and refill the tranny, why not do the filter? Not doing this seems like changing the oil and not the filter, which is dumb. Just curious.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    For a 10 year old vehicle I wouldn't recommend a flush. A flush is a pressurized fluid push through the transmission, and although a good machine can exchange around 98% of the old fluid for new, there is the possibilty of damage. I don't recommend it on vehicles with more than 60,000 miles. The reason for this is that the possibilty of tranny damage increases with wear/aging on it. The internal seals may not handle that much force on them, and if they break, that vehicle won't be driving out of that shop, or if it does, look for big problems down the road. The unit will basically have to be rebuilt. I would recommend a fluid drain and refill and filter change only. Besides this flushing is only a money making gimmick for the shop. What do you think a flushing will remove that a drain and refill and filter change will not?
  • I have a 1999 Toyota Corolla.. .. Approximately 65,000 miles on it. I have had my car to Pep Boys in my town for. Several repairs. And been very happy with them..>>>>>>Over the Overpriced Toyota Dealer.
    (I am a woman ) and I take very very good care of my vehicle..

    They did a safety check on my car... Everything was great.. But they informed me that my struts front & rear need to be replaced...With the price being about $1200,00 dollars. For the R and R of the struts and all parts and labor..My question is:

    Does this price sound in the ball park?? For this type of vehicle and the mileage and all.

    I don't feel they have ever ripped me off before.. And they have been very in depth in their explanations so forth so on..

    Just would like an honest answer...If someone can give me one..?

    Thanks All :D
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,900
    The book says:

    List Price Front Strut [non-permissible content removed]'y $134 each X 2 = $268

    List Price Rear Strut [non-permissible content removed]'y $157 each X 2 = $314

    Labor Rate Total, front and rear = 4.8 hours

    The labor rate is posted in the repair shop and can vary widely from state to state.

    The real question here is not so much the price but whether you really need all four struts.

    So the question to ask them is: "Upon what evidence that you can demonstrate to me, do I need all 4 struts right now?"

    Acceptable answers:

    "They are, I'll show you"

    "They are weak...look how the car continues to rebound a few times after I've pushed hard on each corner of the car"

    "Your tires show signs of cupping---caused by too much motion in the struts---here, I'll show you what cupping looks like"

    Unacceptable Answers:

    "It's always done at this mileage" (NOTE: TOO SOON FOR 65k MILES)

    "It felt like it when we drove it"

    My Opinion: Without very obvious physical evidence, I would judge this repair unnecessary and an "oversell".

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  • Thanks for your reply. In reading your other replies, I wasn't aware that you were including the filter also. I just didn't see reason to put clean fluid through a dirty filter. I need to change/fill mine (06 Corolla) as I'm at almost 70K. Should have already changed it.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    That's an excellent answer for "mootoy".
    Are struts really that expensive? Are they Toyota or aftermarket?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,900
    Those are list price from Toyota, near as I can tell.

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  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    Dear Miss, Even though Pep boys seem honest, Any store may push over the line, to make more profit, when they want to, I have been repairing cars for 30 years, And as for struts do not need replace unless you feel your car bounces all over the road while driving, As for dealers and stores they want you to replace struts after every so many miles even if they are not bad, I have a 93 toyota camry and my struts did not go bad till I put 190000 miles on the car, So I say no need to replace them , unless you feel the bouncing, or unless you have the money to waste. You should try to have a strong man push down on your bumper to see if it feel firm or bounces up/down freely like a bad shock has no more compression then you know the struts are bad and need replaced, Have a Happy New Years !
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Yea your right, the 2005 fuel filters are in the tank and should be good for around 100,000 miles or so. Thanks for the heads-up.
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