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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    I had a problem that sounds like you describe in my (2004) Corolla. It doesn't happen very often, but it does happen. Since your car is still under warranty let your dealer have a look at it.
  • shalom_yaallshalom_yaall Member Posts: 2
    I've had zero problems until last night.. first cold one of the year btw.. got about 6 blocks from work and my car suddenly lunged, lost power and the engine light turned on.. i thought.. is my car stalled? when I tried to restart it it acted like I was out of gas, when the gas peddle is down the rpm's only go to 2.. it will idle for about 30 sec. and then die. I put more gas in it to see if it was out, and could only get it about another block.. Im totally perplexed. any suggestions? fuel pump? filter? worse? 56,000 miles... 3 years old.. what is a girl to do?
  • JDM5LugHatchJDM5LugHatch Member Posts: 30
    Sounds like the car is running in limp/safe mode almost but it's not. Is there a CEL (check engine light)? It could be several things but the most common causes could be one of the following... MAF (mass air-flow sensor), Fuel Pump or water in the gas, ECU, or a loose Ground Wire. You could try a bottle of Dry Gas and see if that fixes it. Also, if there is a CEL you need to pull the code for it as it will help to point you in the right direction.

    Things it could also be but are highly unlikely for the symptoms it's exhibiting. If it were an O2 sensor the car would still run but it would do so like crap and gas mileage would definitely have started to suffer prior to it's failure and you would definitely have a CEL. If it were a bad spark plug or coil pack the car should still run just not well again and you should have a CEL indicating a Misfire on one or more cylinders same as a faulty fuel injector. If it were say a bad alternator and battery all at once the car would have just died and probably wouldn't have had enough battery life for the dome/interior lights to turn on.

    To be honest you really need to look for a CEL and hook up a scanner. There might even be pending codes that will be helpful. If there is one report back to us and we might be able to point you in the right direction. Otherwise you need to get the car to a shop to let them diagnose and fix it for you.
  • shalom_yaallshalom_yaall Member Posts: 2
    after all the research I was convinced it was the ECU.. had it towed to a dealership near by.. sure enough that was it.. seems like corollas have this issue.. I was surprised they had the part on hand.. it was under warantee which is good. Thank you so much for your responce!
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Yes, there definitely was a bad batch of ECUs. I have read and heard of this problem. Fortunately, I think it is under the emissions warranty, which is 8 years, I think 80,000 miles.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes ECUs are under the 80K warranty because they control the Onboard Diagnostic Functions.
  • amirzaamirza Member Posts: 1
    Hello

    I have a 2004 Corolla CE with 73000 miles. Have been using 87 grade fuel on it. After 60000 miles I started to notice some knocking during acceleration at low speeds. I upgraded the fuel to 89/90 grade and the knocking is reduced.
    Have also used fuel system cleaners occasionally.

    a) I am curious as to why the knocking started at higher mileage
    b) Spark plug change is required at 120,000 but not sure if this could be the cause
    c) Could it need just a fuel system flush
    d) Fuel filter changing?
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Don't know your home location but it could be due to the extra winter fuel additives in the gasoline for the winter season reducing the effectivness of the gasoline on your motor.
  • jimmoreaujimmoreau Member Posts: 1
    My son has a 1998 corolla. 70000 miles. Lost the maintenance book. Can you tellme when he should get the transmissiion fluid changed? Probably by now but has had no problems.
    Jim
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    If he hasn't up to this point, now is a good time. I would suggest around 60K normally. Don't let them talk you into a drain, flush and refill. Best for the tranny is just a drain and refill. So many people have trouble after the trannys are flushed.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You can check all the maintenance requirements here: Maintenance Schedules, Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins.

    Hope this helps!
  • 02frontier02frontier Member Posts: 6
    I've noticed that you have made this recommendation many times. Can you tell me exactly what type of trouble you are referring to? It would seem to me that if you are going to drain and refill the tranny, why not do the filter? Not doing this seems like changing the oil and not the filter, which is dumb. Just curious.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    For a 10 year old vehicle I wouldn't recommend a flush. A flush is a pressurized fluid push through the transmission, and although a good machine can exchange around 98% of the old fluid for new, there is the possibilty of damage. I don't recommend it on vehicles with more than 60,000 miles. The reason for this is that the possibilty of tranny damage increases with wear/aging on it. The internal seals may not handle that much force on them, and if they break, that vehicle won't be driving out of that shop, or if it does, look for big problems down the road. The unit will basically have to be rebuilt. I would recommend a fluid drain and refill and filter change only. Besides this flushing is only a money making gimmick for the shop. What do you think a flushing will remove that a drain and refill and filter change will not?
  • mootoymootoy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Toyota Corolla.. .. Approximately 65,000 miles on it. I have had my car to Pep Boys in my town for. Several repairs. And been very happy with them..>>>>>>Over the Overpriced Toyota Dealer.
    (I am a woman ) and I take very very good care of my vehicle..

    They did a safety check on my car... Everything was great.. But they informed me that my struts front & rear need to be replaced...With the price being about $1200,00 dollars. For the R and R of the struts and all parts and labor..My question is:

    Does this price sound in the ball park?? For this type of vehicle and the mileage and all.

    I don't feel they have ever ripped me off before.. And they have been very in depth in their explanations so forth so on..

    Just would like an honest answer...If someone can give me one..?

    Thanks All :D
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The book says:

    List Price Front Strut [non-permissible content removed]'y $134 each X 2 = $268

    List Price Rear Strut [non-permissible content removed]'y $157 each X 2 = $314

    Labor Rate Total, front and rear = 4.8 hours

    The labor rate is posted in the repair shop and can vary widely from state to state.

    The real question here is not so much the price but whether you really need all four struts.

    So the question to ask them is: "Upon what evidence that you can demonstrate to me, do I need all 4 struts right now?"

    Acceptable answers:

    "They are leaking....here, I'll show you"

    "They are weak...look how the car continues to rebound a few times after I've pushed hard on each corner of the car"

    "Your tires show signs of cupping---caused by too much motion in the struts---here, I'll show you what cupping looks like"

    Unacceptable Answers:

    "It's always done at this mileage" (NOTE: TOO SOON FOR 65k MILES)

    "It felt like it when we drove it"

    My Opinion: Without very obvious physical evidence, I would judge this repair unnecessary and an "oversell".
  • 02frontier02frontier Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for your reply. In reading your other replies, I wasn't aware that you were including the filter also. I just didn't see reason to put clean fluid through a dirty filter. I need to change/fill mine (06 Corolla) as I'm at almost 70K. Should have already changed it.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    That's an excellent answer for "mootoy".
    Are struts really that expensive? Are they Toyota or aftermarket?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Those are list price from Toyota, near as I can tell.
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    Dear Miss, Even though Pep boys seem honest, Any store may push over the line, to make more profit, when they want to, I have been repairing cars for 30 years, And as for struts do not need replace unless you feel your car bounces all over the road while driving, As for dealers and stores they want you to replace struts after every so many miles even if they are not bad, I have a 93 toyota camry and my struts did not go bad till I put 190000 miles on the car, So I say no need to replace them , unless you feel the bouncing, or unless you have the money to waste. You should try to have a strong man push down on your bumper to see if it feel firm or bounces up/down freely like a bad shock has no more compression then you know the struts are bad and need replaced, Have a Happy New Years !
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Yea your right, the 2005 fuel filters are in the tank and should be good for around 100,000 miles or so. Thanks for the heads-up.
  • ed2004corollaed2004corolla Member Posts: 10
    FOR all of you......I have had the belt tensioner replaced ..did it myself...F-ing pain as the manual is wrong.....(Access hole is OFF). YOUR GRINDING Noise is this OR a BEARING in the the manual transmission(throw -out) if you have a manual corolla or any other CRAP tundra and so on....toyota product...... I have a 2004 corolla .....When it is extremely cold I get this grinding until the car is warmed up... Can happen 1 out of 15 starts random(where ever the bearing stops) on an over night cold soak.... Currently 64k started at 17k while under warranty , CLOWNs could never find it ...over it would never happen.... When you have this problem...PUSH the CLUTCH in about 10 times pumping it...(IT WILL STOP). YOU will find its the throw -out bearing my guess MOVES and STOPS .. or a bearing that stops when the clutch is pushed in.... At some point I will replace it when its time for a clutch unless it completely fails... OR TOYOTA gets hundreds of complaints...The problem is there are not many manuals on the road they built few compared to the auto's(transmission) .. Plus Not easy for people to find or know what to complain about I have had over 5 toyotas ...And I have totally seen them turn to JUNK over the last couple.. I own a Corolla 2004 and SOLARA Conv 2007 ....HAd a scion TC 2005 what trash ...a 1994 tercel and several others... Im done... TOTAL [non-permissible content removed] CARS NOW...I always have to tell the TECHs how to fix my cars or give them the TSB's I look up as there lazy.... get um in get um out....
  • ed2004corollaed2004corolla Member Posts: 10
    FOR all of you......I have had the belt tensioner replaced ..did it myself...F-ing pain as the manual is wrong.....(Access hole is OFF). YOUR GRINDING Noise is this OR a BEARING in the the manual transmission(throw -out) if you have a manual corolla or any other CRAP tundra and so on....toyota product...... I have a 2004 corolla .....When it is extremely cold I get this grinding until the car is warmed up... Can happen 1 out of 15 starts random(where ever the bearing stops) on an over night cold soak.... Currently 64k started at 17k while under warranty , CLOWNs could never find it ...over it would never happen.... When you have this problem...PUSH the CLUTCH in about 10 times pumping it...(IT WILL STOP). YOU will find its the throw -out bearing my guess MOVES and STOPS .. or a bearing that stops when the clutch is pushed in.... At some point I will replace it when its time for a clutch unless it completely fails... OR TOYOTA gets hundreds of complaints...The problem is there are not many manuals on the road they built few compared to the auto's(transmission) .. Plus Not easy for people to find or know what to complain about I have had over 5 toyotas ...And I have totally seen them turn to JUNK over the last couple.. I own a Corolla 2004 and SOLARA Conv 2007 ....HAd a scion TC 2005 what trash ...a 1994 tercel and several others... Im done... TOTAL [non-permissible content removed] CARS NOW...I always have to tell the TECHs how to fix my cars or give them the TSB's I look up as there lazy.... get um in get um out....
  • ed2004corollaed2004corolla Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2004... there are two TSB one is for cold soak rough high idle ....car will run high in the cold......I had this fixed under the fed warranty up to 80k free.... its a re program of the ECm... WIll run alot better after this... The other is a manifold problem crack.. TSB car will run rough or even trigger Light or code.... This one you will have to pay most likely....

    Hope this helps
  • ed2004corollaed2004corolla Member Posts: 10
    If you have a manual trans like me.......I have the same problem.. I did the tensioner thing...that part is fixed...but I have the same problem... Grinding until warm up... standing from the front of the car.... look down toward the right where the transmission is,,,,,, I have been trying to figure this out for two years....as its so random and does not always happen... What I have found its in the trans... MOst likely the throw -out bearing... AS IF YOU PUMP the clutch alot..10-15 times it will go away.... BAD BEARINGS in throw-out my guess.... Mine started at 17k but only happens in the winter when really cold say below 28 .. THIS IS NOT the starter Dont let people tell you this...... Hoping to wait longer when I replace the clutch to take a look at it... I have 65k now on mine and really dont want to open it (lAZY) or pay someone..... TOYOTA cheap quality parts... AS I have seen them go down in the last 4 years
  • ed2004corollaed2004corolla Member Posts: 10
    Is your car a manual trans .... I have the same problem.. Did the tensioner(DID it my self)... fixed that part... But I have the grinding... TRY this.. next time you have it.. PUMP the clutch like 10 -15 times... or more..It will go away( LOOKS LIKE THE RELEASE BEARING) ,.... Mine started at 17k and has continued to 64k now...DEALER TECH were clowns and still are!!! They could so call never find it???? Yet it would happen when I picked it up.. I gave up.. the told me it was the timing chain... TOLD them to F&CK OFF......There all PARTS monkeys who can only fix what you TELL them ..Or the Computer points them ..NO SKILLS... GO to a ma and pa shop ... you will have better luck and better serivce (OPEN A Investigation at NTSB https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/Complaint.cfm ) The problem is everyone that sees this grinding noise thinks its the tensioner.....
  • damar1damar1 Member Posts: 5
    Mr_Shiftright, thank you for your advice. I had my valves adjusted, and had a belt tensioner replaced. The only item remaining is that my mechanic found that my timing chain is a little loose due to the timing chain tensioner being loose. With the other noises now gone, my engine does make a noise for about 10 minutes. Once the engine is at operating temperature, the chain noise diminishes significantly.

    I was told that if the noise goes away when the engine warms up that that the timing chain is not being harmed. My 2001 Corolla only has 75K miles and would like to keep to at least 150K miles. Would you suggest that I have the timing chain tensioner adjusted (or replaced)?

    Thank you very much.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It seems unlikely that the tensioner would be shot at these low miles---I guess what I'd advise is to keep an ear out for the noise to get worse. As long as the noise almost goes away when warm, I would worry. It's very rare for a timing chain to break---but what CAN happen is that the tensioner or chain guide rail can wear so badly that the chain can jam in the timing case.
  • damar1damar1 Member Posts: 5
    Can the tensioner and chain guide rail be replaced without replacing the timing chain? If I do need these replaced, would it make sense to replace the chain as well?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think there is a tool to measure chain wear, so you don't have to guess--but yeah, you can replace the guide rail and the tensioner, and yes, that's less work.
  • bigtoyotafanbigtoyotafan Member Posts: 1
    I have noticed a similar problem - I don't hear the grinding noise, but it kind of does shake when cold.

    However, I disagree with your disappointment in Toyotas - this is a minor thing compared to everything else that Toyota still builds to last forever ... and Corolla prices are not going down with age ... I am still a happy Toyota owner :)
  • ed2004corollaed2004corolla Member Posts: 10
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Couldn't agree with you more! Being the kind of forum this is and the topics up for discussion, we do have a tendancy to hear more from the dissatisfied Toyota owners then the satisfied or those that have problems then those that don't. But rest assured there are many more of us satisfied Toyota owners then those that aren't satisfied.
  • ed2004corollaed2004corolla Member Posts: 10
    Love your toyota thats great........but As Im stating The cars have totally gone down hill over the last 7 years ....I have owned over 5 toyota's ....Not going to get into the details of each car...... but my last 3 the quality was really not there......I have watched them get worse over the years... and its all shown now.. and more will come out watch.... Heres one for you guys...... Search the web ... about 3 to 4 months before this whole mess broke out on National TV..There was an article on nationals headlines stating toyota was looking and asking there current suppliers to cut there costs 20 to 30 percent(parts) ..or they said they were going to look for new partners and lower costing parts.... YOU DONT HEAR anything about that now... all quite...now... as the crap hit the fan....There no different then any other company just a different wrapper.. Once you get greedy its all about money!!!! They've endned up like the GM of the early 80's mass make , mass money and it bit them in the @SS just like GM....
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Sorry to hear you had so much bad luck with your last three Toyota purchases. If you have some inside information on further Toyota problems that we owners aren't aware of, for our safety, perhaps you would want to share them with us ? I thought just about all of the proven and alleged Toyota problems were now out in the media.

    "more will come out watch.... "
  • trikev19trikev19 Member Posts: 18
    I traded my '94 Corolla for a '10 Corolla in December '09. The seats in my '94 looked great after 15 years. The seating material in my '10 Corolla is terrible. It attracts lint, pet hair, dirt etc. and is impossible to clean. I've been a HUGE Corolla fan until now. I'm very disappointed with the quality of the seating material. It's apparent that Toyota's answer to the growing competition from Korean automakers is to cut quality. I drove an Elantra before buying my Corolla and only bought the Corolla because of my experience with my '94. I made a huge mistake and regret it every day that I drive my car.

    Before you buy a Corolla, look around. You'll find higher quality for less.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I have an "09" Corolla as well, and as you state, I do find that the seats collect lint, dust, etc. However, Toyota considered this new textured velour material as an upgrade to there previous seating material. Actually "Epinions" gave the "09" Corolla good grades (7 out of 10), for it's seating material. Are you actually judging and regretting your whole Corolla driving experience on the seating material? Considering how well my "09" Corolla operates and handles and has served me, the lint on my seats are the least of my worries. You might find higher cosmetic quality out there, but for less, that might be questionable.
  • trikev19trikev19 Member Posts: 18
    My Corolla is a good car. My argument is that I have a new car and I'd like it to look that way. I maintain my vehicles and try to keep them clean. Toyota has made this car for decades and its quality is legendary. I find it frustrating that this seating material made it through testing and into my car. It is not good quality, it doesn't work well and it is one of those problems that is right in your face everytime you drive the car. I'm disappointed.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Yeah, it is annoying and as you stated it should' ve been caught in testing or manufacturing. Why don't you try one of those sticky round lint rollers to remove the debris?
  • trikev19trikev19 Member Posts: 18
    I will...thanks.
  • debjeffdebjeff Member Posts: 9
    I am driving a 2007 Corolla and I am very dissapointed with the fabric on the seats as well as the roof carpeting (among rattling and other concerns). My son is tall with bushy hair and where the hair touches the top of the inside roof carpeting, the material has begun to look like shag carpeting. The fabric on the seats are wearing in places. Is this suppose to happen? Can anyone suggest how to repair both concerns? Perhaps my next car will not be a Toyota.
  • gpc46gpc46 Member Posts: 5
    could anyone please tell me labor times for minor/major services plus what items are replaced on each one, I've mislaid my book
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Change the oil and filter and rotate the tires every 5 K miles and you'll be fine. The rest done as needed. My philosophy is anything more than that is a waste of time and money. I always had great service from all of my Toyotas without feeding the dealer. Just sold a Tercel I had for 24 years. Currently have three Corollas, no preventative stuff done.
  • dieuwerdieuwer Member Posts: 8
    I own a Corolla 2002 with 100,000 miles on the clock.
    Last year, I had to replace the front shocks for $$$. The garage wanted to change the rear ones as well, but I said "forgetaboutit". This year, I needed to replace the entire exhaust otherwise the car would not pass MA inspection. Again $$$.

    I am getting more and more displeased with Toyota. Why all this talk about reliability if you have to spend $$$ each year to keep the car running? Sounds more like hype to me.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Are you kiddin me? Try to get an American cars shocks and exhaust to last 100K or eight years!
  • dieuwerdieuwer Member Posts: 8
    Not talking about American cars. Those are even worse. Could be that my expectations are too high, but I do not see (anymore) why Toyota should command a premium over other Japanese/Korean brands.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's actually pretty good for shocks. Usually 80K most shocks/struts get pretty tired on cars that travel in urban environments. As for exhaust systems, if you live in a state with road salt in winter, then that's also about the lifespan.

    The items you mentioned, while unarguably an expense for you, are considered "expendables"---that is, they are items that, by design, wear out periodically. Other expendables would be brakes, rotors, clutches, spark plugs, etc. Of course, engines, transmissions, paint, trim pieces, major electrical items and vital safety components would not be considered expendables.

    Also, every car is built to a price point and those of us who buy cars in say the under $20K class aren't going to get the build quality of a BMW or a Lexus.

    Now, if your reliability (break downs, frustrating incidents of no-starts, etc) were rapidly degrading at 100K, that would bother me, too. But replacing worn-out but functioning things on a car of this age, speaking for myself, I pretty much expect it.
  • onirudhaonirudha Member Posts: 3
    I have recently bought a corolla 2001 CE. Everything seems to be fine except I hear a 'chi chi chi ...' sound when I speed up the car from stop position. It does not happen all the times. Probably, when I press the gas pedal deeper during speed up, I get the noise.

    Anybody has any idea, why I'm getting this noise? Is it serious or I can ignore it?

    Thank you all.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hard to say from this distance but you might check for a loose drive belt or perhaps the beginnings of a failed bearing in a pulley or idler pulley.
  • trikev19trikev19 Member Posts: 18
    Does the noise increase with the RPM's of the motor or the speed of the vehicle?
  • onirudhaonirudha Member Posts: 3
    I get it once when speeding up the car from stop. And it does happen for 4/5 seconds. Rest of the time I don't get it. Sometimes even I don't hear the sound. Thank you for your response.
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