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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Wow what a difference! A few days after using the Petro A/C cleaner the odor is all gone. This is the two can system most dealers use and can be purchased from them for around $15.00. Note: you will have to get under the passenger side of the car to attach the provided hose to the A/C drain. Well worth the money.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    For the 2009/2010 floor mat recall, new front mats are replaced only if you already have the optional all weather mats now. They will trim the front of the gas pedal, trim tibia pad under carpet, and add 2 by 5 inch tape over tibia pad. They will then reshape the carpet were pad was trimmed. This work is scheduled for 1.2 hrs.
  • truman_angeltruman_angel Member Posts: 3
    Hi! I'm new to this forum and don't know a lot about cars, but I'm hoping someone can help. I recently had the tires aligned on my 2005 corolla. After doing so i started hearing/noticing a clicking sound from the driver's side tire/wheel-well when i am making right hand turns. it sounds like running a stick over bike spokes. i took it back to the place where we got it aligned and they said that they thought it was just a nail in the tire, but it might be in the CV joint but since it is sealed they couldn't tell for sure. they also said the only reason i hear it when i turn right is because there is an echo that i'm hearing at that time, but not the others. that explanation does not make sense to me because when i am sitting in an open area i can hear it on right hand turns and as soon as i straighten up the wheels it goes away. the car has an extended warranty from toyota, but that has been totally useless up to this point and i really don't want to pay $80 for a diagnostic fee for them to tell me it's not covered under warranty. any ideas on what it might be or how to trouble shoot the issue? any thoughts are appreciated. :confuse: Thanks!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    While it is true that a bad CV joint will make noise on hard turns, it would be the LEFT CV joint making noise on hard right turns, and vice-versa. So to say that the right CV joint is bad because it makes noise when making right turns, is probably a faulty diagnosis.

    It is true that you can't really tell if a CV joint is bad unless you perform the above test or you disassemble it. You can't tell from looking at it or wiggling it around.

    So yeah, you could have a bad LEFT CV joint.
  • truman_angeltruman_angel Member Posts: 3
    Would that be something that normally goes bad after only 42K miles? Or is it possible that they messed something up when they did the alignment? I'm not 100% certain that it wasn't there prior to that, but it was after that when I started noticing the sound.

    Just so I'm clear, the LEFT CV joint is the driver's side, correct? I wasn't sure if you meant left from the driver's seat or the left from facing the car. Thanks so much for your reply!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's correct. Left is the driver's side. It would be unusual for a CV joint to fail at 42K miles but if the boot that protects it were ripped and the grease leaked out, then certainly possible.
  • truman_angeltruman_angel Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your help! Is it possible that it could be anything else? I want to have all of my bases covered when I call the repair shop and ask what it will take to fix it.

    Thanks again!
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    My corolla made the same noise and it was the sway bar link, you can hear it more over bumby road, The sway bar link is approx 6 inch long and is worn out, which causes it to make a click noise, I bought a lifetime warranty one at Advance Auto Parts for $38. , put in on and no more noise.
  • crisrockcrisrock Member Posts: 1
    My 2006 pings very briefly on acceleration. It does it more when the air is on.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A brief ping is really okay, it might just mean your gasoline isn't quite up to snuff. You could switch to mid-grade and see what happens.

    If the pinging to very loud or prolonged, you shouldn't drive the car too long that way, and should have it scanned for trouble codes.

    Also, in addition to timing problems, high carbon content in the cylinder/head area can cause pinging, so if you take lots of short trips, you might consider taking the car out for a long high speed run and using a gas tank additive.
  • jimbo92jimbo92 Member Posts: 20
    after that he realized his mistake and added gas,on his way to work 2005 corolla kept jerking and died.He got it towed to his home where his friend said he needs a new injection pump.Anybody know what his remedies are,thanks.
  • alex24alex24 Member Posts: 54
    You need to flush out all your fuel lines and your injector fuel tube lines and gas tank, should replace fuel filter, and that should do it.
  • jimbo92jimbo92 Member Posts: 20
    thanks alex24,will pass this information to him,hope he listens.thanks again.
  • hoopitup2000hoopitup2000 Member Posts: 46
    edited August 2010
    I have been hearing a cricket like sound from the engine on my '05 Corolla for over 2 years now when rainy / damp conditions exist. It can be loud enough to hear going down the highway with the windows up at times, but a day or 2 later, not even the slightest noise once the humidity drops back. Should I be concerned?

    Thanks!!
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    edited August 2010
    Yeah, that's the tensioner. Corollas are notoriously known for these bad tensioners. As long as it doesn't seize up and you can put up with the little crickets your fine.
  • hoopitup2000hoopitup2000 Member Posts: 46
    Thanks Tom,

    If I decide to replace it, should I insist on OEM? Unless the original design has been improved, I can't see putting in another Toyota one. The dealer wants around $300-$400.00.(Ouch)
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    Ask Toyota to participate in the cost of the repair. Toyota paid 1/3, the dealer paid 1/3 and I paid 1/3. My car is older than yours, I had the repair done last year.
  • gardengirl51gardengirl51 Member Posts: 4
    Hi, everyone! I am the second owner of a 1995 Corolla Sedan that now has almost 167K miles on her. I am wondering what really needs to be done to maintain this car well so it will give me 250+K miles. Cannot afford a new car on unemployment! At oil changes, most have recommended an engine flush, but I bought it having 105K miles on her and won't do it because I do not believe original owner did regular flushes. I have a small oil leak that is under control with some additive, but otherwise she seems to be in excellent condition. I bought her 4 years ago. Besides regular oil&filter changes, I have only had the transmission flushed. (This caused a strong vibration in the steering wheel until it was done twice more - at no cost, ending up using the most expensive fluid they had to correct this.) I also replaced the radiator, the rear brake assembly (when brakes failed - exciting!), and all the belts - including serpentine and tension pulley, plus the catalytic converter. At the last oil change, I was told by this new mechanic that my brake fluid needs changing and that it should be done every 2 years. If that is the case, I am long overdue! How often should I change the brake fluid if I do mostly highway driving and what schedule should I follow for other regular maintenance on a car this age? Thank you!
  • terricterric Member Posts: 1
    A while back our 05 Corolla began to idle rough, then a week or so ago it started knocking, We have an appt with a non dealership shop that specializes in Toyotas this week but this morning when we started it, it began to smoke. We left it home. Our question is, expecting the worse and we'll need to replace the motor, does anyone know what to expect. We're thinking used motor or rebuilt would be available and even knew of a time when cars in Japan could only have a certain # of miles on the engine before they were replaced. Maybe that is just a rumor but ??? Would love to know anyones experience and cost of replacing a motor in a Corolla. thanks in advance.
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    I just purchased a 2001 corolla. The check engine light is on codes p0441, p0442, p0446. shop performed smoke test on the evap system. Came back with $$$ quote to replace charcoal canister and associated valves. Purchased a vsv from auto parts store last night. looks like the vsv that is located under the hood and not the one on the charcoal canister. I want to replace the vsv/purge valve that is located on the charcoal canister. Can I buy JUST the vsv that is on the canister somewhere? The stealership wants $300+ for the charcoal canister. According to them I cant get the vsv / purge valve by itself!! Thanks for the info in advance.
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    the vsv (911-601) that i picked up was listed as "at charcoal canister" i looked a bit at the dorman site. vsv(911-602, 911-603) the inputs/outputs are on the same side just like the one on my 2001 toyota corolla. Any idea if any one of these parts will be compatible? Can I reroute the hose to for the 911-601, or will the others work even thought they are not listed as compatible with my corolla? I am new to these cars, and am looking for the best, most inexpensive solution. thanks
  • dorman68dorman68 Member Posts: 1
    Do you have a pic of the old one you can post.
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    edited August 2010
    it looks very similar to part # 911-603( vaccum inputs on same side) the part i picked up #911-601( has inputs on opposing sides). photos are on dormanproducts.com"

    i did take some photos but i dont think they will help the cause. i am curious if i could use part # 911-603, even thought it does not show that it fits my 01 corolla. or can i somehow rig/route the vaccum hose to fit 911-601.

    i guess another option would be to try and track down a used part from a salvage yard, but that just might end up be a waste of time.
  • rfhjrrfhjr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE automatic. When starting the car after it has set for 8 - 9 hours sometimes the ignition makes a clicking noise. After three of four attempts the car starts. When I stop for just a short period of time I never have this problem.

    I checked the battery and its connections and they are okay. I was thinking the next thing to check wold be the copper connections in the starter solenoid would this be the next logical step to take. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might want to take the cables OFF the battery and clean them, and the battery terminals, thoroughly, with a wire brush, and also check the cable itself for corrsion at BOTH ends, as well as under the insulation as it meets the connector.

    The clicking means the relay (solenoid) is not getting enough voltage, so there is a drop somewhere.
  • manandginmanandgin Member Posts: 1
    I am getting ready to purchase a 2005 Corolla LE with 68,000 miles. The only known issue is the airbag warning light stays on. The car is in excellent condition and carfax record is clean with no accident reported. What would cause the warning light to come on and is this something I need to worry about? Would it be costly to diagnose and fix?

    Thanks.
  • james2011james2011 Member Posts: 12
    unless it is fixed before you buy it, don't buy it. It will be nothing but a headache. Find another car, it is not worth it. I had a light that would not go out and it was $$$$ and it was never fixed.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I don't think a little dashboard light on, would stop me from buying the car. However, I would get the car checked first just to be sure the airbags are still functioning correctly. The warning light is sometimes independant of the airbags themselves. It could be something as simple as a a blown fuse. I have a "94" Voyager who's airbag light comes on occasionally and it's always just a matter of the fuse replacement. Turns out that my rear wiper is on with the airbag light and the rear wiper blows the fuse.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited September 2010
    I wouldn't buy it until it was fixed. Obviously, the current owner got some bad news already or would have repaired such an obvious deterrent to a sale---I mean, do you *really* want to roll the dice as to whether the air bag will fire or not?

    Could be a simple sensor, could be the whole enchilada. Let's find out first.

    If you are really hot for the car, find out what a Toyota dealer charges to replace an air bag and then deduct that off the selling price. That way you're covered.

    As of now, IMO the car you are buying is a "cripple".
  • brokeman1brokeman1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello I need as much help as possible I have a 2001 corolla that had a engine sludge problem and broke I replaced the engine and the torque converter and now the cars startes up fine but will drive like ten feet and thin I will lose all power to the front wheels. And some time the car wont move at all was wondering if anybody was been here befor or can tell me how to fix it. Any help would be apperciate it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Who did the torque converter for you? Sounds like it's messed up again, sad to say, if you don't move at all. They can be put in incorrectly and also bolts holding them can come loose.
  • sretepesretepe Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    I have a 2003 corolla that is in very good shape. Several years ago, not long after replacing the tires, the interior of the car became progressively louder at progressively faster speeds. I figured for a long time it was due to the tires since revving the car doesn't produce the same noise. However, I have just replaced the tires with Michelin X Radial DT that are highly rated expecting the noise to go away. The car is just as loud. It is particularly hard to hold a conversation with anyone in the back seat at highway speeds. Any ideas what's up? Can one increase the sound proofing of the car?
  • james2011james2011 Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2009 Corolla that has extremely wrinkled front seats on the sides of the cushion bottom. The passenger seat has almost the same amount of wrinkles and it has not been used more that 10 times since I purchased the car new. I was told that the process is to take to upholstery shop the dealer works with, they examine and a warranty repair is done. I took the car myself to the shop that the dealer uses and they said definitely that it is bad piece of ill fitting foam underneath and it needs to be redone.

    I went to the dealer, told them that, when they did some other work. When I picked it up the service tech said that they had contacted the Toyota area service rep who would look at the car and make a decision. The impression they gave is that they, the dealer, believes that it is normal wear and tear. They are very tight lipped about it.

    My question, what do I do now, if the dealership will not support my claim? I was told by another dealer that Toyota would not. I have not met with Toyota yet as I am wary of going through another waiting at the dealership, being given the runaround when it is probably a no go.

    Any ideas? What is the next step if Toyota says no?
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    How about the exhaust system?
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Why would it be denied? Still under warranty right? Or are you over 36,000 miles? Check your warranty book to check on coverage for this type of thing.
  • dave594dave594 Member Posts: 218
    Sounds like wheel bearings going bad.
  • daryll44daryll44 Member Posts: 307
    On Sept 11th, I leased a 2010 Corolla "S". It comes with the Toyota two year maintenance package. My question is this: I am hearing that contrary to the owner's manual, you can go 10,000 between oil changes if you use 0W-20 synthetic. What about the INITIAL oil change....is there synthetic in there from the factory and can I go 10,000 miles? Frankly, it's a 3 year lease and I'm not concerned with how long the engine will hold up. I'd prefer to do the 10,000 change...because I am too lazy to go to the dealer every 5K!

    What's the deal?
  • gchecksfieldgchecksfield Member Posts: 36
    I am considering changing this sensor. It looks to me like a socket will not fit over the plastic electrical connector that is in front of the spot where a socket would grab to turn the sensor to get it out. If that is correct it looks like the only possibility to remove it would be an open ended wrench, with very little room to work. Am I seeing this correctly? Any tips on getting this out?
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    There is synthetic in your car from the factory and you can certainly go 10,000 miles. Your engine will be fine.
  • neal3480neal3480 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2006 Corolla (38,000 miles) and I changed the (Pennzoil 5W-30; dino) oil every 3 ~ 4,000 miles. Reading the benefits of full synthetic oil at this forum, I am thinking about using the synthetic oil from now on. I appreciate greatly if you guys can offer me your words of wisdom.

    1. Some people mentioned that it is not a good idea to make the switch on an old car because the seals might be ruined by the finer synthetic oil. Did I already miss the boat?
    2. If I can make the switch, which grade (5W-30, 0W-20, or ??) of synthetic oil do I use? (Btw, I live in Ohio)

    Thanks.

    Neal
  • kt6rkt6r Member Posts: 6
    The ignition coils are adjacent to the spark plugs. What are the steps to access and remove the spark plugs? What are the obstacles? What tools are required? How do you remove the wire connection to the top of the spark plug? Any special tools or techniques involved?
    Please help. My car is a 2005 Toyota Corolla LE with the 1ZZ-FE engine.
  • fundamentalsfundamentals Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Corolla 1.8 Automatic that I bought a few days back. It has 117K miles now. WHen I slow down, or when I accelerate from lower speeds, I feel a flapping noise (like a drum beat) coming..probably from the front end- maybe from the passenger side...or could be the center. When at high speeds also I feel the sound exists, but because of highway noise I cannot hear it very well as I do at lower speeds.
    Any ideas?
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    2001 toyota corolla s, 128k I have had this car for about 6 months. On occasion when I am slowing, stopping and then make a turn (usually right turns). There is a low dragging or faint grinding noise coming from the rear passenger side (wheel area), sounds almost like the brake is sticking. I don't notice any driveability issue. I only notice it when i am turning. Also a seperate issue, I have been getting the CEL with randumb codes; P0171(to lean), P0420(catalyst below efficiency). As far as the codes, I have done some research it sounds like these are just emission based codes and really don't affect driveability. Any feedback would be appreciated. This is my first Toyota!
  • stennantstennant Member Posts: 1
  • l1sasonrisal1sasonrisa Member Posts: 2
    Ok so I went to a small shop to get new tires and to have an alignment done and an oil change.

    So I turn the car on after they are done and 1) they didn't reset whatever they need to reset when they did the oil change, so my "maintenance required" light was still on.

    ALSO there were 2 other lights on now. There was the "VSC OFF" light was flashing and then I don't know what the technical name for it is, but its the light with the car thats swerving was on.

    So I go back inside and tell them that all these lights were on, and they just told me "Oh it just needs to be reset"...but they wouldn't reset it.....And I've had an alignment done before and nothing had to be reset.

    So I went to Toyota to ask them about the lights. They reset the maintenance required light, but they said they had no idea why the other 2 lights were on. They said they would have to do a test and then a code would come back and then they would know what the problem is. But they couldnt do it that day, so I'm going in on Monday.

    So THEN I had to bring it back to the original small shop because my alignment was still a little off, but to the opposite side. So I get there and tell them. The guy goes in the car and then he tells me he needs me to hear something. So I get in the car, and he starts driving. And now my car is making this weird humming noise. The guy said it was more then likely the wheel bearings. (which are still under warranty thankfully)

    So my question is, do you think these people at this small shop could have done something to damage my car by doing an alignment and/or changing the tires?

    It just seems really odd to me that all of a sudden all these problems are coming up.

    In addition, a few months ago when we had are first snowfall, I did go off the road into a small ditch. I brought it to Toyota to have them look at the car to make sure there was nothing wrong, and they said there wasn't.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Well first off you might get a better response to your question if you post on the existing thread called "Corolla Maintenance and Repair". Anyway, a bigger question is why the multiple wheel alignments, tire replacement and wheel bearings on a brand new Corolla? When you say a "small shop" is this a Toyota dealer? I would say it's very possible that this small shop does not even know how to reset your warning lights. I really think this shop is really trying to take you for all they can. Take it back to the Toyota dealer that reset the "Maintenance light required"and demand that they reset the other two lights or at least find out why they are on. Of course I'm assuming that your Corolla is still under warranty to be so insistent.
  • l1sasonrisal1sasonrisa Member Posts: 2
    I've had the car for a year and a half and I've already put 40,000 miles on it. My husband and I share a car, and work opposite shifts, and we both have to commute quite a ways to get to work. So obviously I needed new tires because they were bald. The 1st alignment I got done because I went in the ditch and it was off just a little bit.

    And when I say small shop I'm not talking about a small toyota shop, I'm talking like a small family run garage.
  • frodrickfrodrick Member Posts: 1
    I bought a nissan sentra about 5 years ago and immediately changed the oil to synthetic. I have changed the oil religiously every 7-8 thousand miles with synthetic oil car runs great.
    I have 1995 chevy truck and a 2000 hyundai elantra which I did the same and all these vehicles run great.
    I just purchased a 2002 toyota corolla le and I am going to synthetic oil changes immediately.
  • fev1fev1 Member Posts: 4
    I know this is almost a year post your post -- but the 2010 is still the latest model and I just bought my daughter the LE. Same confusion on DLR vs Headlights. I guess the DLR are the headlights and what's automatic is that the dash lights go on if it's dark out. No reason to have an "on" switch for the headlights except for those occassions when you might want the headlights on with the car turned off. The only complaint over the whole thing that I have is that the manual doesn't explain this at all !!! If you've learned anything else about this, please share.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    DLR are the (daytime running lights), their intensity adjust according to the amount of light outside. In total darkness they will be brighter than on a cloudy day. If you want full headlights on a cloudy type day you would use the headlight switch.
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