Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

17072747576

Comments

  • jmcneal87jmcneal87 Member Posts: 1
    My 1990 Toyota Corolla’s headlights and turn signals are not working, but my high beams and hazard lights are. So far I’ve checked my fuses for both headlights and the headlight relay. All seem to be in fine working order. Now I’m out of ideas, got any suggestions?
  • 2002corollaon2002corollaon Member Posts: 6
    In the 2010 manual, it says the cabin air filter is one of the self-maintenance items. Just changed mine, takes about 5 minutes or less (simple steps in the owners manual).
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    edited February 2011
    Yeah did replace that, this odor in discussion is a urine smell coming from the evaporator. It's present on 2009 and 2010 Corollas. They will replace the evaporator under warranty but it's a long five hour job for them to tear apart the complete interior dash to get to it. I just deal with the odor and try to allow the evaporator to dry out by turning the A.C. off a couple of minutes before turning the car off when using the A.C.
  • mole1mole1 Member Posts: 3
    Just clocked 100,000 miles on original clutch and no signs of significant wear so clearly using engine braking isn't all that bad and certainly safer.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Don't believe there's any vehicular laws on the books that mandate what gear you drive in as john 45 suggests. However,down shifting is not only expected when driving a manual shift vehicle but any professional driver will tell you it is the safest and only way to drive. Control of your vehicle is kept on all of the drive wheels by downshifting and keeping the car in a gear at all times, rather than just coasting.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    the rule of thumb I suggest is "don't shift into a lower gear unless you plan to use it for something".
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    As in engine braking ? ? ? ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    well if you NEED to use engine braking. Slamming the car in a lower gear 100 ft from a red light is just silly and tough on synchros.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    edited March 2011
    Interesting, so you're saying you would rather slam on your brakes alone a 100 ft. from a red light rather than down shifting to a lower gear to help you stop? I can also assume you would be disengaging the clutch at the same time to prevent a stall, correct? Doing that of course would leave all four wheels as free wheeling and under no control other than the brake right? Yikes ! Sounds like a recipe for disaster on a rain or ice coated highway. Downshifting is taught in commercial driving courses as essential to keep control of your vehicles drive wheels when braking at all times. Even in an automatic it is recommended to down shift into 2 or 1 (lower gear) to maintain vehicle control when descending a steep hill.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Why do you have to slam on your brakes when slowing down for a stoplight?

    Besides, downshifting on ice, or anywhere for that matter, when engine revs are too high for the gear is a very bad idea, as you induce what they call in racing "compression braking".

    Any downshifting for braking purposes shouldn't be necessary on a level road.

    I never downshift unless I need the gear for something---to take a turn, out of a curve, going down a long hill, to pass someone, or if I'm way too slow for the gear i'm in---but in normal city driving---I never use the transmission as a brake, no.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I guess it's just how you were taught. After researching online I notice it's pretty evenly split between those that downshift regularly to stop the vehicle and those that just rely on the brakes to stop. I myself like to keep my drive wheels engaged whenever my car is moving. But to each his or her own.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I have to correct myself, I found out after researching that there actually are "anti-coasting" laws in some of the United States.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Brakes are a whole lot cheaper than transmissions. If you use the transmission solely as a braking device you are applying the full moving mass of the car onto the gears and synchros. Naturally, if you are just putting along in 4th gear on a city street and you apply the brakes, you might also downshift so that the car doesn't buck from "lugging" but there's no reason you need to use the transmission to brake the car in straight line, level, city driving.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I was willing to accept the fact that everyone drives differently for whatever reason or because of how they were taught. But if by your example, of "brakes being cheaper than transmissions" you are insinuateing that engine braking is bad for the transmission I would have to vehemently have to disagree with you. I have been driving manual shifting cars and trucks for many many years and have yet to replace either a trans. or a clutch for that matter. I have driven a Renault, V.W.,Capri,Corollas and many commercial trucks, all manuals, and many for over 100,000 miles and have downshifted for safety at each and every stop sign or stop light I have ever come across without problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I guess at slow speeds that's okay. I'm talking about ramming it into a lower gear at high RPM without double-clutching, for no good reason. Perhaps we are talking about different scenarios.

    Generally you don't use downshifting for HARD braking unless you're racing of course, or you need that lower gear to do something else.

    But driving at 45 mph, seeing a red light, and slamming it into 2nd to slow down is just brutalizing the car for no good reason IMO.
  • pauljakobpauljakob Member Posts: 6
    I have had my Corolla for 2 days its brand new. And when i have the air on it makes a light grinding noise. any suggestions on what that is? should i take it in?

    thanks
    -p
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited March 2011
    "what" makes the grinding noise exactly? You mean the compressor, or the fan, or ???
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I would definitely take it back in. Just sounds like the fan is hitting something. Try it with the heat and fan on full, does it still grind? If so it's the fan for sure, no biggie!
  • pauljakobpauljakob Member Posts: 6
    edited March 2011
    Ya when i turn off the air to 0 it slows down the metal ping/grind sound then stops totally. Otherwise the car rocks. but it sounds like metal grinding/ clanging.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Sounds like the fan for sure, take it back for a quick fix.
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    Hi everyone,

    Today I got my car back from the shop after replacing the battery and alternator to the tune of $380 w/tax. My Corolla is an '04 LE, and will be 7 years old in about 3 months.

    I'm reeling at the bill and fear that I was taken to the cleaners. I went on line to find prices for the above mentioned parts and saw a variety of prices. So I don't know. Saturday morning the engine didn't turn and made a rattling noise, which made suspect that was coming from the alternator. I called my mechanic and after describing the situation he said it's the battery. I didn't quite agree but kept quiet as I didn't want to give him any ideas about replacing more parts than needed. Well, he checked the system and found the alternator to be draining the battery, which he said was in bad condition in the first place. I know I should've replaced the battery a while back, especially after the winter we had in NY. However,
    the mechanic didn't say anything about it when he serviced the car in December '10.

    Any replies would be appreciated.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Don't know why your reeling!If you actually had both a bad battery and a bad alternator then the price of this job was fair. Labor - $70.00 - (1 hour)
    Battery - $100.00
    alternator - $200.00 for a genuine OEM alternator
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Member Posts: 117
    I'm with you on this Shiftright.
    My left leg gets tired after an hour or two of stop and go traffic.
    Why speed up that process with a lot of extra shifting?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Actually I started paying more attention to how I drive in traffic, and in fact I don't ever down shift coming to a red light or stop sign--I just push in the clutch, apply the brake and then put it in neutral.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Well no it's not "EXTRA" shifting, it's called engine braking for more control of your vehicle. In bad weather when trying to stop, you're much more likely to loose control of a coasting vehicle , then a vehicle that is engaged in a gear. In your case though, perhaps an automatic would be more suited for your particular driving characteristics. In certain states like New York, Michigan and California to mention just a few, coasting and not engaged in a gear, is even prohibited by their motor vehicle codes.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't think we're talking about the same thing, tom. I meant you know, coming up to a stop light at a leisurely 25 mph, not careening down a hill or anything. Given how little one has to tap the brakes to stop at those low speeds, it seems that downshifting is simply not necessary for braking---and I trust none of us are in danger of losing control of our vehicles at those speeds.

    Besides, downshifting on a slippery surface is about the worst thing you can do, as you get "compression braking", which is the same as 2-wheel braking---not a great way to stabilize the car IMO.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Again there are arguments for both methods of slowing a car. Coasting is illegal in so many states though? I know if you coast in neutral with a manual shift automobile, to a red light in PA. (my home state), you will fail the driver exam. for lack of control of the vehicle.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't think they'd fail you for putting your foot on the clutch as you approach a red light. You actually have to, or you'll buck in 4th gear as you slow down--which might make you fail-- as would making the inspector's head bobble as you slam into gear and compression brake.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    No, I'm sure they wouldn't but that's not the example I used either. The example was coasting up to a stop in neutral. Approaching a stop in fourth gear as you would, just sounds plain old lazy to me, not to mention the required amount of clutch riding time which would definitely increase clutch wear over an extended time and extra brake wear.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Member Posts: 117
    edited March 2011
    To "terceltom"

    I'm very familiar with engine braking, how it works and when it needs to be used.
    I made no mention about coasting in neutral.
    My shifting style closely matches Mr Shiftright's and I don't think he mentioned coasting in neutral (beyond a few yards) either.

    I've driven manual shift vehicles for over 30 years and I think you've made some unfounded assumptions about "my case" in order to further your agenda.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Please don't get so serious or offended; this is just a friendly disscusion about two different driving styles, that's all. Trust me, I have no agenda to offend anyone, if I did I appologize. But my oppinion is, weather it's a few feet or a few blocks, when not engaged in a gear that IS coasting. JUST MY SOLE OPPINION !
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you have to coast sometimes in a stickshift car--it's unavoidable, because you have to depress the clutch pedal in order to stop without stalling.

    Of course, in a few more years I suspect that the clutch pedal will be as obsolete as the starter crank handle or windows rolled up by hand.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Your probraby right, I think by then driving will be obsolete, the cars will just take us where we want to go just by typing it in or telling it. Isn't technology just wonderful ? ? ? ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I hope I'm dead by then.
  • pauljakobpauljakob Member Posts: 6
    I put my hand up to feel the seal from the inside of my new 2010 corolla s today. It had snowed and was raining a bit. And i felt a bit of water on the seal. Its been closed for days. Then in the gutter type part below the seal there as a bit of water aswell. Is that normal? I have never had a moon/sun roof and have no idea if its normal to take a little water on around the seal. its not like i see the water inside or feel it. but just want to make sure its not a big issue.
    -also any suggestions to get rid of all the rattles and creeks the car makes when i hit bumps? for a new car it makes alot of noise!

    thanks
    -Paul
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yeah that's okay---that's why sunroofs have drainage holes. It's the plugged up drainage holes that often cause sunroof leaks, not the seals so much (unless they tear).
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I was just going to concur with what Mr. Shiftright stated. Every year or so I have to run a little wire down the two drain holes on either side of the moonroof on my 2009 and 2001 Corollas to reopen the holes to avoid the wetness around the seal.
  • ssshahssshah Member Posts: 2
    Its not a big issue, all u have to do just change the rear brake light holders, they r the one causing problem.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Am I missing something? How does changing brake light sockets help the car shift into "Drive"?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If your brake lights don't work, you might not be able to release the Park lever when you step on the brake pedal, because the shift interlock relies on the brake light switch.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Yea but that's totally different, your refering to a bad brake light switch in the example your siting. I'm sure a bad brake light bulb or bad brake light bulb socket is not going to prevent you from shifting into "Drive". Even I know that!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you're probably right about that but I never say never when it comes to cars.
  • kenb1357kenb1357 Member Posts: 1
    tomi1 did you ever get an answer on the oil leak problem? If so what was it, please.. Ken
  • kero1kero1 Member Posts: 154
    Hey,

    My wife's 05 corolla LE, 70K miles has the following issues

    #1 clock spring needs to be replaced, confirmed via enhanced code scanner at my buddies shop. no problem, understands what needs to be done

    #2 lean bank 1 cel code, mechanic advises to replace, not clean the maf sensor. If needs to be replaced, no issue, understand what needs to be done, can do this myself.

    #3 Most concerning and upsetting is the P0741 cel code. ECU replaced under recall a few months ago, code and cel comes on and off every so often over the past few months. Car drives perfectly, no shift maladies of any kind that I can feel at this point.

    I have done a tremendous amount of research on this issue and there is no concrete direction as to how to handle. Some people say simply change the tranny fluid, 2 different tranny shops say that will not help at this point, they say fluid change alone would need solve the problem. 1 tranny shop says replace selanoid, 1 says torque converter. Both are expensive repairs that ARE NOT GUARANTEED to resolve the issue. The two shops that this is a very hard code to diagnose and repair due to the many culprits that can be causing the issue. They inform me, speed sensor, selanoid, torque converter, internal tranny damage, or wiring or connector issues can all cause this issue and that several hours are needed to try and hunt down the issue, again, with no promise that the work done will fix the issue.

    What I would love to know is if anyone has experienced this problem after the ECU recall, how did you handle it. What did you fix to resolve the issue finally.

    I have read nightmare stories of people replacing many different things and the code still comes back up, after sometimes, spending thousands of dollars on tranny repairs, etc etc.

    I don't have the money to blindly fix things hoping that it get fixed and def don't have the money to replace 1 thing after another until it's resolved.

    I really need some help here and hope someone can point me in the right direction.

    After further discussions with the two tranny shops, both were highly recommended by personal friends, that if I don't have the money to diagnose and do several repairs, should 1 repair not solve it, to trade the car and don't look back.

    It's a shame at only 70K miles, well treated car, well take care of, not absued, to have all 3 issues, one of which seems to be a big problem. We have only 8 payments left and would hate to have gone through all of them to have to get rid of the car.

    Upon researching this issue, I see tons of owners with this same issue but yet to find any concrete info on how they resolved the issue, many of whom spent large amounts of money for the code to only come back up again, sometime days after replacing full transmissions.

    Begging for some help here, PLEASE...................................
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Okay, let me see if I follow you. This was a Toyota recall on the ECU correct? Wasn't that just a software update? Okay if it was a "recall" car doesn't have to be in warranty to get this work done at Toyotas expense.
  • kero1kero1 Member Posts: 154
    edited May 2011
    There was a voluntary recall on toyota's part to replace corolla faulty ECU's due to a soldering issue on the boards. The original ECU's were throwing bogus CEL codes and things of that nature or the car's just would stop running alltogether.

    Part of the list of items under the recall was the P0741 cel code. This recall has nothing to do with fixing or replacing tranny components from my understanding and even if it did, that portion of the recall we would have been well out of warranty. The ECU recall only was for 80K or under I believe.

    Toyota did infact replace our ECU with a brand new one and I verified that on the national toyota board.

    Based on my research and feedback from others on that board, the new ECU in the car is most likely NOT the cause of this new problem, just coincidental that I have the same code that was partially covered by replacing the ECU in the first place. This problem is more widespread than I originally thought, go into google and type in P0741 corolla and you will be quite surprised to the amount of people who have this issue, again, can't find a concrete resolve. Many people have done different things to have the code come back after spending quite a bit of money. It's quite scary actually.
  • geodrivegeodrive Member Posts: 20
    Dealership said that the front brake pads of my 2009 corolla are worn out...only a little bit is left and should be replaced asap.
    May I know how much should it cost to get the new ones ? Only the front brake pads.
    He is giving me an estimate of around 430$.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    If you would like to replace the pads on your own, pads typically cost approx. $68 per axle, and can increase from there depending on the material the pad is made from . So your looking at around $135.00 tops for the pads themselves. Shouldn't take the tech. more then an hour to snap them in place. Figure around $200.00-$225.00 for the job at a dealer, probably cheaper at an independent garage. $430.00 is a rip-off!
  • geodrivegeodrive Member Posts: 20
    Thanks man...
    they are charging a substantial amount for the Caliper service as well which is actually making it too costly...
  • geodrivegeodrive Member Posts: 20
    Also, if I don't get them replaced from a certified location, does it impact my warranty by any chance ?
    I have a 2009 Corolla.
Sign In or Register to comment.