Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

rxsorent · June 2003

Spie, I had that same problem with my 2003 Corolla when I started using the air conditioning again after this winter. I believe they call that icing which could be related to a number of different things like the coil, filter, etc. I tried to get it to do the same thing a second time but it wouldn't do it. I did notice after the first time that alot of water drained out of the drain plug after about 20 minutes which makes me believe the the drain hole could have been clogged. Please let me know what you find out that caused yours in case I experience it again. Thanks

spie · June 2003

I have been having a consistent problem with my trunk release. It just doesn't work. When I try the key in the trunk I often have the same problem. I have to turn the key several times before it opens. I had it fixed on May 27th and the problem started all over again the other day.
Has anyone else experienced this and do you have solution for me?

spie · June 2003

My trunk release stopped working within a year of purchasing my corolla. I had it fixed on May 27th and it broke again. I also have trouble using my key in the trunk lock. I have to turn it several times before the trunk will open. Has anyone had this trouble or does anyone have any suggestions for corrections?

m3fan · June 2003

I have that smell quite often on my '03 Corolla CE. So, the only solution is to wait for more refined gasoline, right?

Are there any issues with using premium gasoline for a long time in a Corolla? I guess I'll just have to switch.

fmny · June 2003

I also get this smelly condition quite often, more in normal driving than on the open road. I've seen messages indicating Honda has the problem too and it's not likey that Honda and Toyota would make the same engineering mistake at the same time (I agree).
Last weekend I talked with a relative who is a Toyota salesman and he indicated that Honda gets their catalytic converters from Toyota.

benzboy429 · July 2003

hey guys im going to be getting a 2003 or 2004 corolla soon but i called a dealership and he told me no ASHTRAY!!! is this true????

corollagold · July 2003

Wife bought an 03 Corolla LE, and from the getgo it started with the hydrogen sulfide odor. Car is made in Can., FWIW. Yes, the first of two cat converters is flush up against the exhaust manifold flange (mentioned in an earlier post or two). There's no room underneath to have the two cat converters moved back some to allow the exhaust gases to cool a bit, as suggested by some posts & articles here and elsewhere. Am currently experimenting with a mix of 87 & 89 octane @ fillup. 50% = no smell. Will try 25% of 89 next. Takes a little horsing around at the DIY pumps - two fuel receipts and a guess of how much the tank will accept. 8^D

JEPROX - could you provide more info on the aftermarket alarm you installed (ref. your post #370 on this board)? I'm in US. Will provide my email If you want.
FWIW, calsage.com/tundra2003.htm shows how to install the RS-3200 in an 03 Tundra, and that probably applies to the Corolla except for the cosmetic stuff, but does anyone know of a site showing how to install & pgm the 3200 in an 03 Corolla? (I gathered that the dealer's kit provides no instructions.)

RE: 4 speed auto trans shifting - how's the 1-2 shift in YOUR tranny? In mine, the 1st gear clutch releases, the engine kind-of 'floats' in a slight race for a moment (computer probably keeps engine from really revving) and finally the 2nd gear clutch slides in and takes hold. IS THIS NORMAL?? The dealer let me try a new one on lot - I didn't hear the same actions. The dealer's car (also made in Can.) had a much crisper 1-2 shift. Naturally, service dep't says they can't do anything about it, so I ask you, dear reader, how does your 4 speed auto tranny shift? (Ya gotta turn the sound system and A/C off, close all the windows, then listen to the engine as you take off from a dead stop with medium-light throttle. You're listening for the tranny to do its first shift.) FWIW, the 2-3 & 3-4 shifts on mine are reasonably crisp, though I can hear a LITTLE slip, probably due to the fluid modifiers.

Wife's car was delivered with a bunch (over 20) of scratches in the clearcoat. (Night delivery - never again.) Had to look carefully for these, because the sun bouncing off the metallic paint will mask them. Dealer didn't want to correct at first, but later broke down and ate costs, then added a band of scratches to the RR fender CC on the last go round. Now we're waiting to get those repaired.

Haven't sent in the new owner's survey yet. If someone hasn't beat me to it, I will be the #4 complainer about rotten eggs (see an earlier post).

Long winded. Sorry. This is my first crack at it.

corollagold · July 2003

According to the 03 flyers, the ashtray will be part of a package. Our car wasn't delivered with one, even though we got the specified package. Badgered - a bit - the sales honcho so he opened his desk drawer and voila - an ash tray. If it's worth $2 I'd be surprised. It drops into one of the cup holder slots, so count on losing that use. Finally threw ours in the trunk along with the rear seat headrests, which block your view when backing up.

doublesix · July 2003

A nail poked through one of my 2003 Corolla tires over the weekend. Is this a do-it-yourself job? If so, what should I buy to get the job done? Or is it better to have it done in a tire shop?

I also have a couple of scratches on the body. What do I need to get to cover up the scratches? I could not find the color code for the Sand Drift Corolla from the label on the front door panel.

stillageek · July 2003

Take the car to discount tire. They fix flats free. I would go first thing in the morning or risk sitting there all day. You could also go anywhere else and pay $8-$15 to have it patched. This is not a DIY job.

ddav1 · July 2003

My 1993 Toyota Corolla DX automatic 1.8 with 121,000 miles on it developed a squeaking noise at low speeds about 300 miles ago. Usually takes some driving before the squeak starts and it is intermittent. Sometimes the pitch of the squeak is lower when turning.

I inspected the brakes and 2 of the 4 front disk brake sliding pins were frozen. Loosened, cleaned, and relubed w/high temp grease and still have the squeak. CV boots are intact. CV joints and wheel bearings are original. Tried to determine if my vehicle has an grease fittings by checking my Haynes manual but no luck. Any info would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

P.S. I did wait until 120,000 to change all belts including the timing belt. The belt was in excellent condition, although the engine timing may have been off just a bit as I experienced some pinging/hesitation between 55-60 mph.

snxn · July 2003

Before we purchased our 2001 LE in April of 2001 I did extensive research and read many reviews of the car on Edmunds, Kelley's, and other on-line auto sites. Overall the car was given high marks and, using Edmund's pricing, got a good deal from a local Toyota dealer. Any thorough review of an auto will list some features that are less than desirable. Two separate reviews that I read stated that the air conditioning in the 2001 Corolla was not up to the task on a really hot and humid day. Last summer we noticed that we were not really comfortable on hot days so I took the car to the dealer. They checked the AC and said that the temperature out of the vents was normal. Two weeks ago we had our first REALLY HOT day of this summer and, inside the car, it was just as if we were not running the AC. The vents fed air that was not even cool, let alone cold. I loved our Corolla but we traded it in last week for another make of car. The AC in our new car works very well, even during this current heat wave. Before buying I stopped at the Toyota dealership and told a salesman about the AC problem. He started his reply by stating that most people don't know how to use AC. I raised my hand in the air and stopped him in mid sentence. I explained that I know how to use car AC and always open the windows and get as much of the hot air out of the car before turning the AC on. If any of you good folks have comments or opinions on this matter, I sure would love to read them. Thanks....

doublesix · July 2003

Yesterday I brought the nail-punctured tire to a Firestone shop, and was told that it was not reparable since the hole was very close to the sidewall. I had to buy a new Firestone tire (~$80) to match the other three original ones.

The repair cost for the three shops I contacted is $15, $20, and $25 respectively.

fmny · July 2003

Our regional service director indicated to me (I'll paraphrase) that the sulphur smell probably wouldn't qualify for the lemon law because the car is working properly and the gas is the problem. I'm starting to think more lemon as we've developed two more issues. At times we get a squeaking in the car that sounds like the leaf springs are in trouble. Any movement in the car causes this loud abrasive noise. Then Just to keep it interesting we had these squeeks parking the car in the driveway and when I went back to try and locate them an hour later - the noise was completely gone.
Also, we're getting wetness on the floor in the rear right hand side of the car. This seems to occur even in dry weather. The floor is warmer there after a short drive. I'm thinking I'm getting condensation on longer trips. If Toyota is consistent on telling me how to resolve this issue --- it'll be 'don't let the car heat up'.
You might sense that I'm becoming less than a happy camper.

johng17 · July 2003

Does anyone know if the sulpher problem has been taken care of in the 2004 Corolla? Does/did it also happen in the Accord? Also,I was told the 2004 Corolla has a timing chain as opposed to a belt. True? ( I was looking at an LE) Thanks

mcdawgg · July 2003

All Corollas starting with 1998 have timing chains. New Honda Accords and other cars also sometimes have the sulfur smell - nothing to worry about, IMHO. My neighbors haven't complained at all about their '03 Corolla.

johng17 · July 2003

Thanks for the info. There are so many posts concerning this sulpher odor , I don't know what to think anymore as far as it being a strong factor in a purchase consideration. What was IMHO?

mcdawgg · July 2003

IMHO = In my honest opinion. I'd go for the Corolla. I really think it is the best car in it's class, and all of my Toyotas have been EXTREMELY good cars. High resale value, unmatched reliability and quality, comfort, and, beginning with the '03, large and comfortable rear seat. The maintenance is also very easy on Toyotas - oil changes are much easier on all the Toyotas I have owned compared to other cars, very easy to get to the filters, etc. They may not be the most stylish or "drivers" cars, but that's not what I want. Good luck with your decision.

jeprox · July 2003

my alarm is ULTRAGUARD. same generic system that's installed in many american cars.

chanestk · July 2003

What options should I go for and what should I stay away from? Also what does the LE have that the S doesn't?
Thanks

ghulet · July 2003

http://www.toyota.com/html/shop/vehicles/corolla/grade_features/c- - orolla_grade_features.html

I'd say generally that the equipment/options on most in-stock units will vary geographically. Most Corollas, especially LEs, will have automatic transmissions; side airbags and ABS tend to be a bit hard to find. At least half the 'S' models will have the sport package (rear spoiler and alloy wheels, IIRC). Good luck.

vivian24 · July 2003

I have experienced a sudden drop in power while driving. I attribute part of that to the extreme temperatures we are experiencing here in Arizona lately. I am considering replacing the oxygen sensor. Already replaced has been fuel tank, fuel filter, plugs, oil change. I would appreciate any feedback here or my email address of vivian_m24@yahoo.com. Thank you very much.

ranger96 · July 2003

Question for the new 2003 Toyota Corolla le with keyless entry. Can the keyless entry be set so that when either unlocking or locking the doors the lights can blink with a beeping sounds(like the older 2000-2001 camrys)or does the lights only blink.

Mr_Shiftright · July 2003

vivian---please don't make so many multiple posts. One topic should be enough to get a response.

thank you

Host

amy89 · July 2003

hi!

i know this might be a little stupid, but i can't seem to hook up the cargo net to my 04 corolla le. the instructions say that i need to use a plug removal tool but it didn't come in the cargo net package. so, what should i do??!

thanks!

nu2soob · July 2003

Hi,
I've had my XR for about a month. Recently the latch on the seatback of the backseat (passenger side) has started to rattle. It only rattles when I hit a sharp bump. Anyone deal w/ this before? Is there a fix? Thanks in advance.

terceltom1 · July 2003

I also have a 2001 Corolla LE. My air conditioner works great. We currently are having 90 degree plus days, and humid and my Corolla chills down immediately. I did find that when you turn the temp. dial all the way to cool you must turn it until the dial actually kind of clicks into the coldest position, not just to the maximum left, but one click farther. This is when it really cools down fast. Also be sure to use recirculate instead of fresh air for maximum coolness.

fmny · July 2003

Our water on the rear passenger floor may have been fixed by flushing the moon roof drains. Toyota service told us these drains clog up so easily and often that when we replace this car my wife will probably give up her moon-roof.
The brakes were checked as a possibility for the squeeking problem. They were ok and the problem still exists.
I really don't know what's wrong with Toyota with this sulphur issue. Corporate Toyota doesn't seem to care a bit for customer satisfaction on this issue -- with exception of Laurelmarie. In New York the regional service manager has indicated that they've tested and sulphur levels are higher than some standard (standards for which they probably have in Canada). I called Toyota's customer service and indicated to them that Toyota was selling cars in New York that can't handle the gasoline in the state and the consumers have no prior warning about this. She indicated it was the dealers responsibility to advise the customers. If I were a dealer I would be very upset to have to sell cars that have a sulphur problem in the first place (or try to sell them after mentioning the sulphur possibilities).
I have a couple of loose ends to clean up and will try Laurelmaire's procedure of writing to the dealership owner and Toyota presidents. I have enough written information from corporate Toyota to request assistance from the Consumer Protection Agency and the State Attorney General's Office. I'll decide on that action after I've consulted a lawyer about doing a private lawsuit. (Toyota customer service offered an immediate appointment for arbitration. Having no additional information about how that whole process works... I don't trust Toyota.

mcdawgg · July 2003

The sulfur smell issue is common to a lot of new cars - look at the Honda Accord. Seems like when the new lower sulfur gasoline comes out that the problem will disappear. I read somewhere that the lower sulfur gasoline standards were supposed to be in place alreay, but our pro-oil company president gave the companies more time to comply. Then I read that BP Amoco had a record first quarter income of 3 times their old record!?!

fmny · July 2003

We did experience a noticeable improvement in occurances and intensity of our sulphur condition. Then we saw, on TV news, that distributors had changed to lower sulphur gas for the summer. Although not as severe, our problem still exists. Today for example, after dining out for lunch we filled the car with sewage smell in less than a block of driving. Then we got slowed down on the entrance ramp to the Thruway and got the sulphurish smell bad enough to leave a taste in my mouth. This level of discomfort still occurs with the "good" gas. I'm down to the last of a series of solutions suggested to me from Corporate Toyota. That suggestion is to sell the car. I don't want to take thousands of dollars loss on a car that had the problem before I bought it and became immediately apparent. Also, for the same reason I don't want to stay in the car, I can't sell it to anyone else. In my mind, it wouldn't be ethical to sell this problem to someone. I would sell it to back to Toyota so they can figure out what's wrong with this vehicle. I appreciate your comments, but in this case I'm afraid my car is a "worser" case scenario.

nippononly · July 2003

mine are totally quiet. perhaps a carefully placed slip of paper? or perhaps it is merely not properly closed?

corollagold · July 2003

XR rear seat rattle. I don't have your model, but experienced much the same thing after folding down and later re-latching the rear seats upright on wife's Corolla. After going into the trunk and releasing them again, then using more force to slam them into the locked-upright position, the problem vanished.

On another front, wife suspected a defect in the upholstery of her 03 LE. Sure enough, when it is viewed in an angled (late afternoon) sunlight, I can see that every 1-5/16" there is a missing thread. This is seen as a horizontal line (left to right) in some seat (cushions and backs) panels. The vertical fabric panel of the rear seat cushion (which touches the back side of a rear passenger's leg calf) has the missing thread oriented vertically. This missing thread is visible on some of the seat panels, while other panels apparently were cut from another bolt of cloth - the 'missing thread' lines are absent. FWIW, the problem can also be seen - from a distance - at night when the interior lights are on, but close up it seems to disappear. The car was mfg'd in Canada, 11/02. Anybody else see this problem?

Is the steering on an 03 Overly sensitive? I have to keep tweeking the steering wheel to get the car running down the center of the lane on a straight stretch, and just about the time I get it, a curve comes along and then I have to start all over again. I've never noticed this 'hairtrigger' sensitivity on other cars I've driven. Has anyone else noticed this problem?

JEPROX - Tried to find the ULTRAGUARD alarm via the likes of GOOGLE, but going through the results gets me things like CO alarms, an alarm installation co. in Van Nuys, CA, dead-end auto products listings, car covers, card access (door lock control) security systems, home/commercial alarm systems, an edmunds listing that took me to your post, and on and on. Would you provide a pointer or req my email addr? Thanks.

CG

jeprox · July 2003

i suspect that ULTRAGUARD is made by a big company like clifford or some other company. i will try to look at the manual again and see if i can find a name for you.

hurler4 · August 2003

To anyone who is looking for a way to cover the cargo area with the rear seats folded down, I was at Home Depot yesterday and they have a perfect rug that can be cut to fit the area. It is called "Tuff Stuff Level Loop Collection," and is 6 x 9 feet. (The cargo area is about 5 feet by 4 1/4 feet at its widest.) It is only $19.95 and is really sturdy. I traced the cargo area, then cut the rug to those specs and am now sewing the edging taken from the scraps onto the rug so it doesn't unravel. It looks great! They have them in light gray and charcoal, too.

Quick question: I have had my Matrix for 2 weeks now and noticed that the left rear seat has the plastic part a bit separated from the seat itself. It's still on strong enough, but there is a small gap. Has anyone had this problem? If so, how can it be fixed? I figure I should take it back to the dealer, but that can be a pain in the neck.

Thanks!

twood2 · August 2003

to dispell the mystery of where the friggin thermostat is located on a 1990 corolla, there is a radiator hose located just below the distributor cap on the right side of the engine block.

DO NOT MIX THIS UP WITH THE TOP MOST HOSE THAT GOES FROM THE TOP OF THE RADIATOR TO THE TOP OF THE SIDE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK (IT'S NOT THERE!). IF YOU REMOVE THIS YOU HAVE TO RE-SEAL IT WITH SILICONE SEALANT.

Back to the themostat replacement: If you unscrew the metal housing connected to the driver's side of the engine block, that the hose located under the distr. cap is connected to, you will not have remove the hose from the housing. There are only two screws. I had to remove my battery first, then my distributor cap and things flew after that.

My recommendations for a rookie like myself are:
1. remove the battery
2. remove the distr cap and rotor
3. unscrew two screws that mount this connection to driver's side of the engine block as mentioned above. it's a good idea to place a catch basin under your car as it will leak a lot of anti-freeze. you can just put it back in when you're done and you WILL NEED more anti-freeze.
4. remove theromstat and replace with new one AND new gasket that goes around thermostat.
5. put everything back tight.

ceedee2 · August 2003

I have recently test driven several Corollas and one Camry (1997-2000), and on all of them the gas door and trunk release levers feel extremely flimsy. They either barely work, or open both when you are trying to open one, or on the Camry the fuel door wouldn't open at all.
I really like these cars but the levers feel like they will break. I saw a mention of the trunk release issue, but not the fact that both levers are connected feel so light.
Does anybody know if this is an easy fix? Does something just need tightening? I have this scary image of buying a nice Toyota and then damaging it when I need a screwdriver to pry the door open the first time I buy gas! The trunk I am willing to use a key, but if the release for the fuel door doesn't work, that's that.

ktravis · August 2003

Recently my 94 Corolla's engine has shut itself off without warning and without any other accompanying mechanical problem. The car is in excellent condition, but twice in the last two weeks the engine has suddenly stopped running. The car starts back up and drives normally. Anyone else experience this problem? Any suggestions on fixes?

vishalthorat · August 2003

The muffler/silencer strap of 99 Corrolla broke, and I am not able to get a replacement. The is a simple 'C' shaped bracket.
The replacement part that I am getting is a circular clamp, which will require the existing assembly to be removed.
As per the Toyota dealer the original strap was part of the muffler, and I will need to buy the whole muffler!
Any place where I will be able to get this part?

micliu · August 2003

I took my 2001 Corolla LE to the dealership to evaluate the check engine light. They told me that I needed to replace the carbon cannister (it's involved in the emissions). They said that I would get lower gas mileage and would cause more environmental pollution if I didn't get it fixed. I also run the risk of damaging other parts of the engine. I didn't because parts and labor are $400 and I doubt the gas mileage inefficiency will cost that much (I only drive 7000 miles, so even losing 25% its only $120). Plus, the car only has 39,000 on it, and who ever hears about this part failing. The question is, "How big of a mistake am I making for not fixing this?"

alcan · August 2003

The charcoal cannister is the main component of the evaporative emission system, which stores gasoline fumes from the gas tank when the engine's shut off. Operating a vehicle with a defective evap system is releasing hydrocarbons, a major cause of photochemical smog, into the atmosphere.

3955markj · August 2003

Leo - I also have a '99 Corolla LE (53,000 miles) that is using excessive amounts of oil. Always changed oil on schedule. Dealer said shot rings. Took it to independent mechanic who ran some tests and they concluded that it was not the rings because the compression tests did not show any significant difference between cylinders. Took it back to dealer and they still say it is the rings. I suspect it could be sledging due to poor engine design as with other oyotas. In any event, the dealer is overhauling the engine under warranty and I plan to drive it until the wheels fall off (again).

laksj · August 2003

I was startled today driving my 2003 Corolla back from work when, while going about 100 km/hr (62 miles/hr), I shoved the accelerator trying to overtake the car beside me quickly (to catch an exit I almost over-shot!), only to find the rpm shooting to almost 6000 with no extra momentum whatsoever! It happened once before 2 months ago, but I had just hit a bump at high speed and dismissed it as the reason.

Has anybody had this happen to them? Is this normal, or should I be worried? I'll send the car to the dealer to have it checked, but I wanted to check your feedback here first.

Thanks!

nippononly · August 2003

what my Matrix does (same engine and trans)...downshift two gears if you hit the gas very fast at highway speed. One thing I have noticed about these "intelligent" transmissions is that they not only decide what to do by how far down you press the gas, but also by HOW QUICKLY you press the pedal. I have tried comparisons, pressing it down the same amount both times, once quickly and the other time gradually increasing pressure. The first time it quickly kicked down to second gear (5200 rpm or so) and the second time it almost didn't change gears at all, but shifted out of lock-up, and then to third at the last second. (never to second gear like the first time)

It is normal for this car, but I do wish it were programmed to shift a bit sooner under normal gas pedal thrust, and not to shift to second at 100 km/h unless completely floored (and maybe not even then?)

corollagold · August 2003

O.K., all you Rotten Egg complainers. Listen up. I called the nationally syndicated Clark Howard radio talk show last week and discussed the problem. My call was triggered by his monologue about only some of the most elite cars needing something more than the lowest octane. He suggested that I register my complaint with the NHTSA people - www.nhtsa.gov . (Suggestion - key it in once for the ENGINE, EMISSIONS category, copy it before submitting it, then enter it again under the ENGINE, EMISSIONS, CATALYTIC CONVERTER category. That way, they will see it two ways, and can't say we didn't enter it right. Limit, 2000 characters, so be succinct.)

Clark also suggested that I make the same complaint to www.autosafety.org which has no character limit, near as I can tell.

Well, the second one paid off. At least they were nice enough to respond, and here's what they had to say.

"The engine in the Corolla is running too rich. There's not enough oxygen in the fuel mixture. The sulfur in the gasoline is being reduced to H2S rather than being oxidized to SOx. Call Toyota at 800-331-4331. To get EPA's assistance in the matter, call Sheena Dupree at 202-564-9414 who works on warranty issues for them. Or you can write the head of the office at the below address.
" Margo T. Oge, Director
" U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
" Office of Transportation and Air Quality (6401A)
" 1200 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
" Washington, DC 20460

"Tell Toyota you are contacting EPA. That will get their attention."

He signed his name, which I'll not repeat here.

So later today I'll get the ball rolling. And now you too have something to work with, but please, Please, PLEASE be sure to report YOUR problems to those two (now three with www.epa.gov ) organizations, too. Only if enough of us bellyache - and to the right people - will we get Toyota to fix a problem that never should be happening. FWIW, my neighbor bought an '02 Honda Civic just before I got the Corolla. Neighbor uses the cheapest unleaded gas he can find, and has ABSOLUTELY NO PROBLEM with rotten eggs smell from his exhaust. I bought the Corolla because I felt it was mechanically superior to the Honda. It doesn't need a timing belt replaced every xxx miles - Toyota went to a chain drive for the overhead cams, in '03, and the rest of the engine dates back several years, so the design is pretty much "proven".

laksj · August 2003

nippononly, that's exactly what happens with my corolla. If that's what Toyota calls intelligent, then I don't know how a "stupid" transmission would behave! Another couple of times of the engin suddenly shooting up to almost 6000 rpms like that and an engin rebuild may be needed!

At any rate, thanks for the info. I'll try to take easy with my technoligical marvel from now on..

nippononly · August 2003

I am pretty tired of it shifting to second when I need some sudden acceleration on the freeway, so I have taken to hitting the "O/D lock-out" button instead....this seems to defeat its desire to shift down to second.
The thing I really hate about "intelligence" is that if you are most of the time a light-foot like me, to save some gas, it will not shift aggressively at other times when you actually want some rapid acceleration. It assumes that once lazy is always lazy as far as shifting. I find myself shifting the gears on this thing almost as often as I used to shift my manual, and I can't understand how 90% of the drivers in the U.S. want one of these slushboxes (very aptly named, IMO).

mirror · August 2003

I have had Check Engine light on for the same reason over the past year or so (I have Corolla'99 LE). I have not noticed any significant fuel efficiency loss. As far as pollution goes, just today I passed my first CO inspection with numbers half of the norm. I also was quoted around $350 for the repair. The check light is on most of the time. Once in a while I see it go off on its own for a short period of time. My only concern is that with the light constantly on some other problem should it happen will go unnoticed.

canoe2 · August 2003

89 Corolla, the oil alarm light turns ON. Anyone knows where is the pressure switch in engine ?

xcel · August 2003

Hi All:

___A heads up for anyone that may have to change a tire after a flat on the road I was attempting to rotate the tires on my 03 Corolla LE and I could not get any of the rims off the vehicle. The dealer ripped me for $40.00 on this and I am pissed. They were rusted to the hubs and had to be hammered off from behind. This was at the 42,500 mark but a year and the rims are rusted to the hubs? I have never experienced that before with any other vehicle ever and I hope you dont either!

___Good Luck

___Wayne R. Gerdes
___Hunt Club Farms Landscaping Ltd.
___Waynegerdes@earthlink.net

jrct9454 · September 2003

If this car has 42k miles on it, and this is the first time someone has tried to pull a wheel, then it is no surprise that it took a mallet to move them! I've had this happen on our Mercedes at less than 2500 miles. When I went to rotate the tires on our '03 Corolla, it too was stubborn about releasing the wheels - it took my rubber mallet to make it break loose - this was after only 3000 miles or so. Not all that unusual.

It is a good point - don't wait too long to get all four wheels off the car, and the hubs scraped clean of rust - fiddling with this on a dark road in the middle of the night is not fun.

Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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