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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    #52
    http://theautoshop.com/timing.html
    This site has information on timing belts and interference engines.
    Bob
  • miller51miller51 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Corolla with 128,000 miles on it. The belts (timing & drive) and hoses are all original. They appear to be in good enough shape. I've read that I have a non-interference engine. People that say you should change the timing belt at 60K are looking at maintenance schedules designed for taxi cabs, police and delivery vehicles - with a lot of idleing and stop & go driving.
  • nenepop1nenepop1 Member Posts: 1
    Everyone is interested in new cars and thats understandable. I am needing a second car and a very good friend of mine just passed away. They have a 1990 Corolla which they purchased new. It has 61000 miles on it. Auto trans, cruise, am/fm/cassette. Pretty standard. My friend has always been very meticulous about servicing his cars. I just wonder if this would be a reliable to and from the grocery store car? Any reliability problems?
    Any comments would be appreciated. My e-mail address is nenepop1@aol.com.

    Thanks

    Lee
  • gchernya1gchernya1 Member Posts: 43
    You looking probably to the sort of best buy - low miles, old year (low book value) and odometer wasn't clocked. If survivors do not have another plans or asking too mach - go for it. In a shadow market (amateur dealers of classifieds) car like this would fetch in vicinity of $3k easily.
  • gusgus Member Posts: 254
    '90 Corolla sounds like a good buy. '91 Corolla does not have an interference engine. You will not ruin your engine, but you will be inconvenienced if the belt pops out in the middle of nowhere.

    Miller51--think about doing your timing belt/water pump/hoses soon. You're reaching the "tempting fate" part of that car's life span. Many Corolla belts and water pumps can go beyond 100K, but at 120K I would seriously consider replacement.
  • ant1ant1 Member Posts: 4
    does anyone know if the vvti is an interference engine?
  • bruno13bruno13 Member Posts: 2
    I've owned my 98 LE (a/t) for nearly 2 years now after carefully evaluating all competing models on paper and on test drives. Maybe I've been lucky, but I've not seen any of the whining or noise problems reported here. I get 30-34 mpg, smooth, quiet, stable ride at all legal and above speeds. Handling is good, but it's not a sports car. Don't care much for the wet traction of the Goodyear Integrity tires, I'll change them to a better brand if they ever wear out.
  • ant1ant1 Member Posts: 4
    my toyota dealer is offering the 100,000 mile warranty for 1400 dollars is that insane or what? is there a better plan out there somewhere?
  • wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    Extended warranty for $1400?! That's insane. Toyota's don't really need extended warranty. My old 87 Chevy Nova (corolla clone, now called Prizm) didn't have any problem for the first 110,000 miles. My father's 97 Geo prizm had zero problem (other than a broken ciggaret lighter) so far with about 40,000 miles on it. If you absolutely have to get exteneded warranty, go buy it from Warranty Gold or some direct company instead of getting ripped off buying from the dealer.

    As for engine whine. I keep on hearing people talk about it. But so far no one has shown that its a problem. The dealer told me that the whine at 3000 rpms is an harmonic effect from the engine. There is nothing wrong with it. My 99 corolla LE engine's noise goes from silent to a mild whine at 3000 rpms. So far I have not expereienced any problems or heard of any body having a engine problem related to it. I guess the resonance frequency of the engine is just so happen to coinside with that rpm frequency. That would seems to fit the profile that most people hear it at acceleration from 20-40 mph. No big deal.

    Beyond that little noise (you have to turn the radio off to hear it), I have not experienced any actual problems with my 1 year old Corolla. (imagined a few though) :) But if you are all hearing something over that normal noise, then by all means take it to a mechanic.

    Good luck to all my fellow corolla owners. :)
  • funduletfundulet Member Posts: 8
    Take it to a mechanic? Well, I took my car to 3 different dealers and they have no clue what's causing the whining. They can't or don't want to fix it.
    The whining also occurs at rotations less than 3000 rpms and it's most noticeable when the engine is cold or when it's cold outside.
  • wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    Sorry to hear that. Did the whining develope after you bought the car, or did you also notice it during your test drive before buying?

    If it only developed a whine after the you bought the car, then there is something wrong with the car.

    Also, the reason why whine is more noticable when cold is because (1) all engines are noiser when cold (2) the idle speed of the corolla is designed higher when cold (about 1600 rpm instead of 600 rpm when warm), making it closer to 3000 rpms, that's why it might appear that the engine is whining at at less than 3000 rpms.

    If you are not sure, contact Toyota corp, they should be able to provide an answer since so many people seem to have the same question.
  • rachmrachm Member Posts: 2
    My Corolla also whines when less than 3000 rpms.
    I took it to Mechanics and they can't give explanation but said the noise is normal and there is nothing they can do. I called Toyota custumer assistant dept, they let me to contact another dealership. They said if another dealership also say it's normal, so it's normal and I have to live with it. They also said they didn't get complaint about this noise. But it seems that many people are bothered by it. The noise is so annoying. What can I do to stop it? Any suggestion?
    BTW, I've already told them that this noise broke in after I bought the car.
  • nnorthnnorth Member Posts: 4
    My 1995 Corolla wagon has been mechanically and otherwise perfect for 79K miles but at appx. 65K the "Brake" indicator light began coming on when:

    1) I shift from 2nd to 3rd (or 3rd to 4th) 2) the outside temperature was colder than would normally be for the season

    After a mile or so, the light would go out. Of course I had the brakes checked right away (and checked all brake lights myself) but there are no problems. It goes off as it should when I release the parking brake and ironically, as I brake the car to a stop.

    I've ignored the problem for almost a year and now that it has become more consistent (staying on
    longer, coming on occasionally after going off) I'll probably let a dealer have a go at it. Still,
    its pattern of lighting upon a certain combination of acceleration and temperature, plus my verified-OK brakes makes me believe it's a faulty sensor that needs to be replaced, and nothing to do with the braking system.

    I would like to have more substantial evidence of that before going to the dealer - I'm very unimpressed with Toyota dealer service in Eastern MA and have instead gone to private mechanics with all four Toyotas I've owned. I just don't think my mechanic will be able to easily pinpoint this problem, but if I can suggest a solution, he will certainly try it. Any ideas?
  • gchernya1gchernya1 Member Posts: 43
    Aparently one of the sensors on the brake system gave way, or sombody worked on the brake hidravlics not according the manual and this may cause sensor to work as mulfunction detected. One of the sensors is on the main brake cilinder and others somewere along the brake lines under the hood. Sometimes sensor could be near rear axel, and in this case watch for it's wire near gearshift well, it might be pinched.
  • gandhinmgandhinm Member Posts: 1
    guys,
    the whining sound is typical of any japanese small engine. see any toyota,honda, mazda, suzuki, daihatsu..etc.
    In fact that tiny whining sound(like a tiny electrical motor) is what makes these cars popular around the world as compared to the beating the american cars get around the world. No one touches american cars even with a yardstick. they all sound like a truck with broken bearings.

    so be happy with the tiny whining and stop whining about it.
  • andykongandykong Member Posts: 5
    Hi, everyone
    I had my 99 corolla for half year now. Everything is fine, just when I start the car, a kind of very heavy gasline smell will comes out from muffler. I don't know if that's normal. Thanks for any response.
  • jeromemckjeromemck Member Posts: 1
    Folks,

    I've driven two corolla's for the last 11 years. Both were automatics and both whined (as some many of you describe). It's normal for the car. First
    Corolla lasted 179k despite a flood and a major crash. Started break down after 170k.

    Not bad.
  • funduletfundulet Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone have any problems with the airflow knob on their 98 - 2000 Corollas? The one on my car is very hard to turn all the way to the right.
  • tamjoejoetamjoejoe Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know what might have caused my car to keep running after turning off the ignition. It began by starting the car. The car began to shake make rattling and knocking noises and sounding like it was trying to start on it's own. I turned the key in the off position and it kept going. I turned the key to on and then pushed the gas pedal. It seemed to run and sound normal.
    No problems since then. Happened 2 days ago.
  • wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    HUH?! Man, that is wierd. Never heard of that before. But if anything, it's probably the wiring or some ignition switch problem. If it happens again, take it to a dealer and have it checked.
  • kutsalkutsal Member Posts: 1
    I had same problem with a diffrent brand car. It was the gas I used. Change your gas store.
  • chu5chu5 Member Posts: 3
    Just want to share this experience with you.

    I have a 99 corolla CE with auto transmission. Starting about 6000 miles, each time when I turn
    the steering right ( more than 30 degree), I can hear a unusual noise. Just have the dealer checked, they found that the steering rack was sticking. After is was replaced, noise goes away.
    Also, the rear row cup holder broken.
  • chu5chu5 Member Posts: 3
    Just want to share this experience with you.

    I have a 99 corolla CE with auto transmission. Starting about 6000 miles, each time when I turn
    the steering right ( more than 30 degree), I can hear a unusual noise. Just have the dealer checked, they found that the steering rack was sticking. After is was replaced, noise goes away.
    Also, the rear row cup holder broken.
  • shurik1shurik1 Member Posts: 1
    The one on my '93 corolla is difficult to move sometimes. Just don't live it in a single spot for a long time -- see if it works.
  • bjonesybjonesy Member Posts: 6
    I have actually put this in other sections, but keep getting told to move it.

    I have a 1997 Corolla, Since I bought it, the rear passenger seat belt has locked up 4 times. The same seat belt. I have given Toyota 4 opportunities to fix it, yet it still isn't right. This means that my children's lives have basically been at risk since the day I owned the vehicle. I bought a 5 year unlimited mileage warranty on the vehicle yet had to fight Toyota for the third repair. After it broke a fourth time I asked for them to take the car back under the lemon law, which only requires three repairs. They have refused saying they think they have identified the problem, but they can't guarantee it is, They want the opportunity to try yet again, but I have refused to put my children in further danger. They will not EVER ride in this car again. I am now suing Toyota for a lemon law violation and they could have won a fan by admitting the problem (They actually admitted the problem) and buying back my lemon. Instead they choose to play the odds and hope I will give up and trade the vehicle in. I have started an email campaign and have already received responses from others that have had rear seat belt problems, so be careful. I hope no one here has to go through this nightmare themselves.
    Bryan
  • fruitopiafruitopia Member Posts: 1
    I just put a small dent and a scratch on my new corolla! :( anyone know if fixing it is under warranty? if not, any idea how much it'll cost to fix it?
    thanks for the help!
  • mcgyrmcgyr Member Posts: 5
    I wanted to test drive a 5-speed 2000 Corolla LE over the weekend and apparently there are only 5 in Northern CA at this time...??? One of those 5 meets my needs except it doesn't have ABS brakes (none of the 5 do). I've read in reviews that sudden emergency stopping is unpredictable and long without ABS brakes. Any thoughts?
  • jonathan75jonathan75 Member Posts: 10
    Does anyone have a knocking problem with there 2000 Corolla. This happens under mild acceleration not anything big. I use Mobil 87.
  • wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    have you tried a higher grade gas? 89 or 93 octane?
  • jonathan75jonathan75 Member Posts: 10
    No I have not tried anything higher. I always thought it was a waste of money. If the knocking won't hurt the car I would rather use 87 but if it does I guess I will need to spend more money on 89 or 93. What do you use? Do you have knocking?
  • wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    nope, no knocking here. 87 grade gas. And I used a variety of brands: Speed, Citco, Marathon, Shell. They are all on my way to and from work, so I buy which ever has the lowest price. :)

    But I tried 89 and 93 grade gas just out of curiousity, to see if it offer more performance. It seems that 93 grade gas makes the car run a little smoother (almost unnoticable), and give a little better acceleration. It could all be in my head, but for my daily commute, I hardly ever use anything other than 87 grade.

    Corolla needs a MINIMUM of 87 Octane gas, as in your owners manual. I think occationally, some gas station gets a bad load of gas that's not quite 87. Maybe that's what's causing your knocking problem. First, I would try another brand's 89-93 octane, to see if that knocking goes away. If it goes away, then I will try the 87 octane of that brand. If the knocking does not return, then it probably means the knocking you experience with your current brand is probably due to a bad batch of gas.

    Knocking is NOT good for your engine. In the long run, it will result in excess engine wear and damage. So I would not let this continue. When the tank is less than half full, I would fill it with a different brand, high grade gasoline.

    If the problem continues, then you need to take it into the dealer check your engine. The modern corolla engine should have a knocking sensor, maybe that would be at fault.
  • tammerstammers Member Posts: 1
    I own a '98 LE automatic. Just recently I've notices a knocking/grrrr noice while acceleration or backing up, more so with the A/C on. I took it to a friend, whom is a Toyota mechanic, and what he discovered was: the A/C compressor pulley bearing was knocking. I'll be checking into possible recall or campaign on this sometime this week. This problem might be cured by replacing the A/C compressor bearing/pulley/clutch assembly and/or drive belt tensioner assembly with updated part(s).
  • x082483x082483 Member Posts: 4
    I own a 1999 Corolla LE, too. I currently have about 17,000 miles. I had a pull to the right, which was caused by the alignment being out of wack after just 4,000. I do most of my driving on the highway and the engine has been starting to make a lot of noise when going over 60 miles per hour (just recently). I never had this problem in the beginning. Also, when I drive the car for more than 10 miles, I start to here a creaking sound from the suspension when turning at a low speed (below 20 mph). This usually only occurs when turning right. They assume because the car is a Toyota Corolla, that it should never have any problems. I don't know if this is normal or not for this car. Any ideas or suggestions out there????? I have not been satisfied with this car nor the service I have received from the dealership and Toyota itself. They assume because the car is a Toyota Corolla, that it should never have any problems. I don't know what to do.
  • bjonesybjonesy Member Posts: 6
    I am sorry you two are having problems. I am going through hell with Toyota myself and am in the midst of a lemon law law suit. First, make sure you document ALL problems and keep all work orders done on the car. If you don't have them now, go to the dealer and get them. Second go to the website www.nhtsa.dot.gov. Report the problem either on line or call their hotline. They are the people who decide if a recall should be issued and it doesn't hurt to let them know. Third, forget the dealer, go straight to the factory. I received little attention from the dealer, and while I didn't get the solution I wanted (YET) at least I felt like I had done something.

    In most states Toyota has a minimum number of repair attempts they are allowed, usually 3 or 4. In cases of safety it doesn't really have to be that many. After 3 or 4 attempts at fixing the same problem, you can request arbitration or go to court. Arbitration is only "binding" to the manufacturer, so if you don't like the solution you can usually still pursue the court action.

    Finally, realize they probably don't care. You bought the car already, they have your money and they don't want to fix the problem. I have a seat belt that hasn't worked in the 3 years I have owned it and they don't care. It usually takes a year to go to court. You have the right after the car is deemed a lemon, to get all your payments, downpayments and dmv costs, as well as some affiliated costs.

    This is all based on California law and I am not a lawyer, but I am getting a very complete education on the process.

    I wish you all the luck in the world and I hope you don't have to go through the problems I did.

    Also you may want to ask that Weyun (spelling?) guy, he seems to work for Toyota (He has all the answers and seems to take the manufacturers point of view alot) whathe thinks might work when contacting the manufacturer.

    Bryan Jones
  • pmartin3pmartin3 Member Posts: 5
    I had a problem w/ my Toyota - the paint on one door did not match the other side. I had to go back and forth a few times with Toyota Cust. Svc. and the dlr. but I explained to them that I was very understanding and demonstrated patience with all parties involved - this will make the world of difference. If you don't have the demanding type of personality and "you owe me" type of attitude the manufacturer will respond in a much better way. I guess I come from the old school - but what goes around comes around. My advice is to be very patient and understanding. My next door neighbor works for Mercedes - even Mercedes has problems on the assembly line according to him. Good luck with the allignment issues as I know it's frustrating - just try to keep your cool.
  • wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    My 99 corolla LE is a solid piece of machinary. Almost a year since I bought it, I still haven't found any thing wrong with the car at all. I did managed to back my car into a pole in a dark alley. I was scared to death about how much damage I had caused to my car, knowing running into poles are the most costly low speed accidents. But when I looked at the bumper, there was almost nothing at all there. Only 3 points where the paint got chipped or scratched. I then remembered that Corolla has one of the best bumper in the class, something I would never even think about until this happened. Still runs smoothly and quietly as ever, now I wouldn't trade my corolla for anything else in the class. :)
  • mano2mano2 Member Posts: 9
    I had the following problems:
    1) After only two months of ownership the closing hinge of the middle console door fell off
    2) Driver side door is inoperable from the inside. Had lock replaced - still keeps happening about once a month.
    3) Trunk is difficult to close.
    4) Had both front tie rods replaced at 20,000 miles.
    5) Had clutch problem at 22,000 miles. Got pressure plate and throw bearing replaced. car was in shop for 3 days.
    Re. problems 1 to 3: Toyota knows about it. Service bulletins were issued to dealers.
    Re. problems 4 and 5: I am very disappointed.
    I did not expect all this from a Toyota.
  • mano2mano2 Member Posts: 9
    Sorry about the description of problem #2. I was not clear enough. What I wanted to say is this: I cannot get out of my car about once a month because the door would not open when I try it from the inside. I have to roll down my window to rescue myself by popping the door open from the outside. After having the door lock replaced by the dealer, I still have this problem about once a month.
    I hope I sound a lot clearer this time.
  • mano2mano2 Member Posts: 9
    Have your tie rods checked. My car made similar noises before tie rod replacement.
  • severnsseverns Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a 2000 Carolla in the last two weeks and had the engine sensor light pop up on me. The manual says that it may be a serious problem with the engine or just the gas cap not secured tightly enough.

    Checked the cap. Sure enough, had to give it a quarter turn to start "hearing the clicks," but light stayed on thoughout the day. Took it into the dealer and asked "what's up with that?"

    They said it may be a real problem or the sensor just needed resetting after tightening the cap. They said it would cost me money to check the engine after a 2-hour wait or they would reset it on the spot for nothing and said to bring it in if the light comes on again in the meantime.

    Since the car drove and sounded fine, I had them reset it and am now watching to make sure it was just that-- a loose cap.

    But... Can't the car self-correct the sensor if that's all it really is? It should go off after tightening it down again, shouldn't it? The manual said I need to drive the car "several times" (how many is that? How does it know?) for the sensor to "turn off."

    Is this a real problem or am I being unneccesarily concerned?
  • wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    My guess is that you are overly concerned. If the manual said that you need to drive the car several times before the sensor correct itself, then the sensor is probably not meant to be off right after you tighten the cap. I will just drive it like normal from now on, but keep an eye out for the check engine light and keep an ear on the engine noise. Just precautions I would take, but most probably it was just the cap. If there is something seriously wrong with the engine, you will probably hear it, and the check engine light will come back on very soon. If you don't see any of that happening again within a week, I think you are home free. :)

    I can understand how you might be very concerned about your new car. I was that way too when I first got my 99 Corolla LE. I was scared to death when I heard a clicking noise coming from the engine shortly after I got the car. I am actually the person who started this subject. (Check out my name on the first first post). Anyway, that "clicking noise" turn out just to be engine cooling in the cold winter air. Very normal to every car. But I thought I heard what I thought was a rattle coming from the window/door everytime I go over rough pavement. Well, it turned out, to my embarassment, to be overly loose wrist watch chain shaking. DOH! It's all understandable that we all lean towards the side of caution when we just paid $15K for our new car. Keep an eye out for any signs of problems, but relax a bit as well. The corolla is a good and powerful little car, have fun with it. :)
  • hakuna109hakuna109 Member Posts: 1
    Well, I just brought my Corolla 00 for about 2 months. I mostly drove local, since then I heard the noise as I accelerated and to be honest, i dont know when it started to make that noise cause I used to listen to the music as i drives, so is that normal or my car engine had the problems....
  • x082483x082483 Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for the information about the tie rods. I will have them checked when I take the car for service this month. I did check the air pressure in my tires and found the right front tire to be a couple of pounds lower (This was on Saturday). I adjusted the air pressure and I have not heard the noise since, but I will be on the lookout. I expect a lot from a new car (call me obsessive?). I agree with you Severns, I do tend to lean towards the side of caution when paying over 15K for a new car. I am over 17K miles now and I got the car in January 99. I will keep everyone posted on how things turn out. Thank you.
  • x082483x082483 Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for the information about the tie rods. I will have them checked when I take the car for service this month. I did check the air pressure in my tires and found the right front tire to be a couple of pounds lower (This was on Saturday). I adjusted the air pressure and I have not heard the noise since, but I will be on the lookout. I expect a lot from a new car (call me obsessive?). I agree with you Wenyue, I do tend to lean towards the side of caution when paying over 15K for a new car. I am over 17K miles now and I got the car in January 99. I will keep everyone posted on how things turn out. Thank you.
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    Just wanted to let you know...

    If you make a post that you are not happy with, you can click on the post number - it will be highlighted as a link for the poster only. This will give you the ability to "scribble" (i.e., delete) it. Then you can repost it the way you wanted it in the first place.

    Tip: You have two chances to copy what you have already written, so that you can paste it into a new post and edit it. When you are on the hide or scribble screen, you can select all the text and copy it, or you can do that after you've chosen scribble and are returned to the topic page. After scribbling and leaving the topic page, you will no longer see your post.

    Hope this helps...

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • leedenleeden Member Posts: 1
    How do I know if my tires are properly inflated? My front tires were spinning out often (accel from stop) last week when the ground was wet every morning. I checked the tire pressure and got a reading of 33psi. I put more air in (38psi) and it seemed to have corrected the slipping. But what is the sufficient amount? Is there a rule of thumb?
  • pat455pat455 Member Posts: 603
    Your manual or paperwork that came with the tires should tell you, don't they?

    By the way, there are several topics on tires in this conference. Why not use the Search feature to the left and look for them? You can read through the postings and see if you come up with something that will help you.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    My LE comes with GoodYear Integrety tires. The manufacturer's pressure spec is 30 psi. I ususally keep it at 32-34 (since I don't like to inflate tires more than once every 2 months). If you have the same tire, and I personally 38 psi is little too much.

    The trick is to make sure the tire pressure is measured when the tire is COLD (before driving) Gas expand significantly as temperture increases. And tire pressure can different by over 10 psi between hot and cold, so a hot tire with 33 psi might actually be under-inflated. :) Double check after your car has parked for few hours.
  • pmartin3pmartin3 Member Posts: 5
    Bjonesy, it sounds like you work for maybe one of Toyota's competitors perhaps? I don't know, just a wild guess. You probably work at Nissan or Mitsubishi or maybe even Hyundai!!! You seem to know a little too much about the auto industry for being just an ordinary complaining customer.
  • wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    I think bjonesy was refering to one of my post a while back. Let me say that I'm not a toyota employee, and my post was not meant to be an ad. I was sincerly happy about how well my bumper held up, and wanted to share with someone. In fact, I'm the one who started this "Toyota corolla trouble" topic because I was worried about a ticking noise. I work in Ann Arbor, Michigan, as an organic chemist for Parke-Davis pharmaceutical research, and I have nothing to do with Toyota corp. I know that bjonesy probably had a problem with his corolla, but dishing that anger out on someone who has had better fortune with his Toyota and accusing him for being a Toyota employee posting phoney ads is totally unwarranted.
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