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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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    mooskiemooskie Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a used 2000 Toyota Corolla with 9000 miles on the odometer. It runs very well and were happy w/ it. However, the car seens to idol at a very low rate just before it comes to a full stop. Is the idol set too low? does this sound wierd for a car w/ so few miles on it?
    Finally, because the car was used. It did not come with the owner manual. Where can I get my hands on a copy.

    Thanks
    D.R
    Springfield, VA (USA)
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The dealer has the manual for that car. The idle speed may not be adjustable, so you need to have that checked.
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    pinchydelriospinchydelrios Member Posts: 8
    Hi all I am new to this site and would like some help on a problem that just occurred with my toy. After jump starting my car and accidentally reversing the + and - wires to the battery and blowing the 80 amp fuse on the + wire my car will start and run ok but will not idle and dies when I let off the gas pedal, it also makes a high pitched alarm sound. I replaced the blown fuse with a new one and this started after a short trip to the store. Any thoughts or should I just take it to the shop. Its been a reliable car to this point.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmmm....I'm wondering if you fried your alternator and it isn't putting out proper voltage anymore for the computer, sensors, etc. You might start there, otherwise you'll have to have a diagnosis done to find out what may have been damaged.

    You might consider in the future a type of battery cable that has a switch box on it with a red and green light. If you are hooked up wrong, the light tells you. I have a pair, but I don't recall where I got them.
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    vladyvlady Member Posts: 44
    I agree with Mr_Shiftright. It sounds like dead alternator.
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    insuranceguy1insuranceguy1 Member Posts: 1
    hi my antenna broke off in a car wash in my '94 corrolla, i bought a new antenna (for $35) but to have the dealer put it in is going to cost almost $300, i unscrewed the old antenna to see if i could do it myself but i could not find where it connected to the car, the line off the new antenna is not long enough to plug right into the radio so there has to be some sort of adapter that it plugs into then a line from the adapter probably goes to the radio, BUT i cannot for the life me find where the antenna itself plugs into the car. anybody got any ideas?
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    pinchydelriospinchydelrios Member Posts: 8
    Thank you for your help in this problem. Is there a way to check the alternator while still in the car or do I have to remove and have it tested at store.
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    With the engine running at fast idle a voltmeter on the battery terminals should read about 13.8 - 14.5 volts. If less, the alternator has a problem OR the alternator belt may be loose.
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    ssabadessabade Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I looked at a 1991 corolla. It has 106K miles
    on it. The owner is an old man who claims that
    he has been maintaining the car well. (He has all
    the receipts :))
    - battery is 8 months old
    - one tire is new
    - a/c is working
    - rear spoiler works
    - radiator and timing belts were changed in 1997
    - the engine was tuned recently
    - as am/fm stero (no tape player)

    I inspected the car from a mechanic who said that there is oil leak from cam shaft and that would cost 300 bucks. (Not immediate, but within
    6-9 months).

    Can experts out there tell me how much this car
    is worth? I am a student and my basic need (of
    moving around the town) is satisfied. Ths guy
    had a posting for 4300 and then reduced to 3600.
    Owing to his claim of maintenance, he says he wouldn't take less than 3450.

    Is this fair price? Or what is fair price
    for it then? My town is small so prices tend
    to be higher (very few buyers :()

    thanks,
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, price is fine if it is cosmetically in very nice shape.
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    5spd5spd Member Posts: 38
    I wonder if you could help me with this. My father has a 97 corolla with a 3 speed auto transmission. According to the owners manual there is a seperate pool of differential fluid that has to be changed every few years. (On the four speed model the transmission and differential share the same pool of fluid, which is the transmission oil)

    We just have the car service by the dealer, and they have changed the transmission fluid as part of the 60000 miles service package.

    We forgot to ask whether they have changed the differential fluid. Can we assume they have already done that ? Is changing the differential fluid considered part of the transmission fluid job ?
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    kolt80kolt80 Member Posts: 1
    92 Corolla has been driven 110,000 miles. It is getting to be noisy, and the noise increases in stages. Below 10 mph - noise is low. At 30 mph it increases significantly. Remains about the same till 60 mph, and then increases again. When I took it to a mechanic, he demonstrated that there was noise in the muffler. Changing the muffler, did not reduce the noise.
    Please help. TIA.
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    kareskikareski Member Posts: 5
    I have a 93 corolla with 217000 in great shape. In the last two months when I try to start the car the starter will "click" and nothing happens. I turn the key to off and attempt it again. At times I get a second click but usually it will start right up. I feel no drag on the battery and beside the click it starts just fine. Awhile back my wife said she thought she heard the started stayed engaged so she shut the engine and started it again and no trouble. I feel sometimes it clicks more in the cold weather. The repair manual in trouble-shooting suggest to check the wires in which I did and found a load of geese on the starter from the CV boot just below the starter. I cleaned the started off but still get the click. Anybody out there have the same problem with a solution? Also do they make split CV boots for the inside CV unit?
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    pankaj_raipankaj_rai Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Corolla. Recently I had an accident. After repairs my car was vibrating when engine is idling and the sound of engine start was changed. I complained this to the repair shop. They changed the engine mount. Now this has reduced a lot but still I feel the vibrations while backing the car and while turning left. Is there some other problem as well? Please advice.
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    pinchydelriospinchydelrios Member Posts: 8
    Hi alcan I tried your trick with the voltometer but the reading came up to 15.53 volts and i was wondering if that is too high or does that also indicate a faulty alternator. I priced one at kragens and they are $180 minus $50 for the core. I noticed today when i started it up after it has been sitting for 3 weeks that it had blue smoke come out of the tailpipe but it is ok once the car warmed up. Could it be the valves or the valve seals are gone. It has 130,000 miles on it mainly city driving. Your response is appreciated. Thanks
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    terceltom1terceltom1 Member Posts: 150
    I think I have almost the same thing with my new 2001 Corolla(2800 miles). Also when backing up. I'm going to mention it to the dealer the first time I take it in to them.
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    vladyvlady Member Posts: 44
    Go to the auto supply store, they have a testing equipment and they will check your alternator for free. Do not buy the alternator at the stores, go to the junk yard, you can get it for 50$. I did so on my old Corolla(had no problems).
    Blue smoke.. It is normal for the Toyota with that millage. The valve seals are getting harder and losing their ability to clean oil from a valve's steams. Just keep cheking the oil level.
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The specs I'd posted were general specs. The actual charging system specs for your car are as follows:
    Corolla AE92 1988-91
    Sedan, Coupe, SR5......... 13.9v - 15.1v @ 2,000 RPM
    GTS fwd .................. 13.5v - 15.1v @ 2,000 RPM

    The voltage regulator is internal and requires alternator overhaul/replacement to correct. I wouldn't be concerned about maximum charging voltage being marginally higher than spec.
    The blue smoke on startup is probably valve stem seals.
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    bshubabshuba Member Posts: 6
    I had asimilar problem with my 94 dodge caravan. It turned out to be a problem with the starter. It had a dead spot on the winding of the motor that made the "click" sound. The armature turned just enough that the starter would turn over on the second try. Eventually, the dead spot got so big that the armature would not advance enough to ever turn over. My advice: replace your starter.
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    bshubabshuba Member Posts: 6
    Anybody have trouble with their check engine light coming on. The check engine light on my 98 LE (35500 mi) comes on for no apparent reason. The car runs fine before and after the light comes on. I am trying to avoid a trip to the dealer since I am 5 months out of my 3 year warranty.
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    If the MIL is on, the powertrain control module has seen a sensor input it doesn't like. Could be something as simple as the gas cap loose. In any event it doesn't have to go to the dealer for diagnosis. Any shop with a scan tool can retrieve the stored diagnostic trouble code(s) related to the problem causing the MIL to come on.
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    bshubabshuba Member Posts: 6
    Alcan, thanks for the help. Is the MIL the same as the CEL? If not, what is the MIL? The gas cap seems tight. Just passed the pressure test for our smog test.
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    fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    Is there a relationship between when you noticed the CEL and that pressure test you mentioned. Their testing your gas tank pressure could have caused the problem.
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Sorry about that. Under OBD-II, all "check engine" or "service engine soon" lights are referred to as the Malfunction Indicator Light. It's a step in developing standardized terminology. So yep, it's the same thing. Btw, fritz1224 might have nailed the problem.
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    lovejava34lovejava34 Member Posts: 6
    Last weekend, I bought a new 2001 Toyota Corolla LE. I think there is a problem with the car, but I need your advice.
    My old car, Ford Contour, increases speed when it goes downhill. The average highway mpg on sticker is 32 but on freeway it is 38. Comparing to Toyota, it is different. The average highway mpg on sticker is 39, but since I drove the car for last two days, the average mpg is 33. I suspect the problem with downhill. When the new car goes downhill (I do not touch gas pedal or brake or I do not use cruise control as well), the speed decreases. What do you think the problem is?
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    vladyvlady Member Posts: 44
    There is no problem. This event is called an engine breaking. If you do not like that, just turn Overdrive on. But I would use the engine breaking every time I go downhill-saves break pads and the brakes won't get over heated.
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    lovejava34lovejava34 Member Posts: 6
    My overdrive is on. I do not see any light "Overdrive off" on. This means the overdrive is on. I will send my car to Toyota dealer this weekend to check the problem. My friend told me that he suspected the problem with transmission.
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    vladyvlady Member Posts: 44
    Ups I did a mistake . Of course an Engine braking..

    I heard that fuel inject or's engines make less engine braking than curb's engines do. The car should gain a speed.

    It could be a tranny problem(OD solenoid for example). Anyway show the car to the dealer and keep us informed. Good luck
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    bshubabshuba Member Posts: 6
    All. I finally took the 98 Corolla LE to the dealer to check the CEL. They found a defective catalytic converter. They were very surprised for a car with 35k miles. Good news is that all will be covered under warranty.
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    fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    But why did it go bad? Just a manufacturing defect or did something else go bad that ruined it and they are only going to address the obvious without determining a possible underlying cause? Could the same thing happen to the new one after an equivalent number of miles?(and it's out of warranty then) Ask some questions and fish for a lifetime warranty on the converter. Just some food for thought. Although I know you are quite happy that your car is going to be fixed at no expense to you right now, if they were to give you a lifetime warranty, you could feel confident that they made sure nothing else caused the initial failure.
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    bassvbassv Member Posts: 1
    I love my 98 Corolla. However, after 40000 miles the seat belt light stays on ( on a regular basis). I always buckle up and it drives me crazy! I am no longer under warranty.
    Another little note. This is our second Corolla. Our first one was a 1979 which was bought used in 1989. We kept it until 1997 and I never had a problem.
    We are now thinking about buying a Sienna mini van in about a year.
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    huck0969huck0969 Member Posts: 1
    It's not too often you sift through bulletin boards like this and find a positive comment on the subject. After reading about a problem with this and a problem with that, I thought I'd take the time to comment on my 1991 DX. This little car has surviced the Alcan highway, trips into London, several 10+ hour journeys through England, France, Germany, and Italy and after 130K still runs like a champ! I merely feed it new oil every 3-4K and she keeps humming along. I have had some rather strange repairs like the exhaust manifold, but other than that...no problems at all!! I would have absolutely no problem getting up from this computer and driving her from my (temp) home in Germany to Italy...no sweat (over my 2000 Malibu).

    My hat is off to Toyota. I should have bought a Camry.
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    lovejava34lovejava34 Member Posts: 6
    I went to Toyota dealer and asked them about the problem with driving Toyota Corolla 2001 on downhill. My automatic transmission is on "D" while going downhill and the speed on speedometer does decrease. The man who is test driver and mechanic from the dealer told me that it was normal for this car. He said just use "N" to speed up while saving gas on downhill. So I have to accept the way the car is, but I have a question about "N". If I change from "D" to "N" while going downhill and change from "N" to "D" when I get to the flat freeway , will these shift cause some damage in the engine or gears?
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Yes. It will eventually cause excessive wear and heat buildup in the transaxle. I'm surprised that a dealer technician would suggest it.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hi lovejava,

    Well, that advice will get my daily award for the worst thing to tell somebody to do. Putting your car in neutral while going down a hill is not very safe, since without engine braking in gear you only have your brakes to keep your speed down (a car rolling down a hill in neutral picks up speed rather quickly, as an Wily Coyote cartoon would tell you). The brakes, then, will quickly overheat, giving you no brakes and no doubt scaring you to death.

    If in fact your car is not downshifting when it shouldn't, but merely hanging in drive on a downhill and slowing down the car, then that's the way it's geared and there's not much you can do. I'd rather you pressed on the gas going downhill than put the car in neutral.
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    vishalthoratvishalthorat Member Posts: 8
    Hi,

    I have a 94' Corolla Std. 5spd with 93K. It runs great at high speeds, but at lower speeds it tends to jerk. As per the dealer I should drive in lower gears & rev up the engine.
    Should I get the car checked for any other problem, or is this normal?
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Depends how you are driving....if you keep it in 5th gear at very low speeds, sure it will protest....this is called "lugging" and is, incidentally, VERY bad for your engine. So maybe you need to find someone with more stickshift experience to see if that's what you are doing and if not, then maybe you do have a problem.
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    vishalthoratvishalthorat Member Posts: 8
    Could the quality of fuel have anything to do with this? I use 'Regular' gas.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No, lower octane will just give less power but shouldn't cause any fuel delivery problem.

    What's your speed in 5th gear when this happens? What are the rpms at that speed? If it's below 2,000 rpm in 5th gear, then definitely you are lugging the engine. This puts tremendous loads on the engine and is a rather harmful habit...so if you are doing this (many people do unconsciously), maybe you can remember to shift down to 4th whenever you drop below around 2,000-2,200 rpm.
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    vishalthoratvishalthorat Member Posts: 8
    There's no tachometer, so I don't know the rpm. But I have occasiaonally experienced this problem at 2nd,3rd & 4th gears also. Ofcourse if I accelerate more, it runs fine.
    This problem has never occured when the dealer test rides it.
    Is there anything specific that I can get checked -clutch or soemthing else?
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    rollaman2rollaman2 Member Posts: 10
    Hello,

    The steering wheel in my 2000 Corolla LE vibrates when I apply the brakes in a hard stop (for example, going from 50-0). Any ideas on what may cause this? I have about 30k on the car right now, so I am hoping it will be covered under the warranty. Thanks in advance, I really appreciate it.

    -Rollaman2
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    terceltom1terceltom1 Member Posts: 150
    Sounds like your rotors are worn unevenly. If your lucky they can machine them and make them even. Or worst case you might have to replace them. But thats not too expensive either.
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    kfogelsongerkfogelsonger Member Posts: 1
    First, I drive a 1998 Toyota Corolla with 41,000 miles on it. I recently noticed stains coming THROUGH all of the fabric on the door panels. It's happening on all 4 doors, and in a blotchy pattern. The dealership says that they don't know what is causing it, and suggested replacing the door panels (at quite a cost). Anybody else experiencing this or know what is causing it?

    Secondly, in response to the question about the seatbelt light. I had the same problem. It was always on, then it came on and off randomly for awhile. My car was under warranty at the time, but they actually needed to replace the entire seatbelt. They said that the seatbelt would function fine, but a sensor in it was no longer working correctly.
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    jodymjodym Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Corolla LE which goes into a fish tail motion anytime I abruptly turn the steering wheel. I bought the car new and have had this motion occur three times over the years - all on dry pavement. I managed to keep the car under control the first two times it happened, but last week I braked and turned to the right to avoid a car which had stopped quickly during rush hour. I was going 65 mph when I locked the brakes and turned to the right. The car fish tailed wildly approximately 5 times. I crossed two lanes of traffic and ended up backwards on an off ramp. Luckily no damage was done except to my confidence in this car. A friend with a Fiero said he had this problem, and it was fixed with a four wheel alignment. I have an appointment to get my alignment checked tomorrow. Has anyone else experienced this kind of handling? I have been the only person in the car when this fish tailing occurs. Consumer Reports rated this car low for emergency handling, but said a front stabilizer bar helped the handling considerably. The stabilizer bar comes as standard equipment on the LE. Any help would be appreciated.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Fishtailing-----yes, this is usually a problem with vehicle dynamics coupled to of course, problems also with tires and road conditions. But presuming the tires are good and the pavement dry and flat (two big presumptions, but....), then what may be happening is that the vehicle is someone lifting badly off one or more tires.

    Turning the wheel and braking is risky on any car...when you brake, the car's weight shifts forward, and the rear end gets "light"...if your wheels are also turned, you basically have an unstable front end AND back end. Sway bars might help, and better shocks. Obviously your car's tires cannot hold the car. Ultimately, it's those four patches of rubber that keep you on the road.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Stained door panels---perhaps the plastic weatherproofing behind the doors is torn or was removed when stereo speakers were installed? Or did you have a window fixed or something? There is supposed to be a plastic barrier behind the door panels to protect against water intrustion. If water gets in, it seeps through the panel material and will stain it.
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    bja4bja4 Member Posts: 67
    I have a 98 Corolla, and was horrible to drive in the winter (slick roads). I couldn't drive faster than 35 mph without the back-end loosing control. This should never happen with a front-wheel drive car.
    The car was hit in the rear the previous spring, and had a 4-wheel alignment done as a precaution. It turns out the alignment shop (Import Auto Body in Ft.Collins, Colo.) screwed-up the alignment. The new alignment also ruined 4 new tires in less than 10K miles. I finally took the car to Toyota and had a 4-wheel alignment done. They fixed it. I no longer have any problems keeping up with traffic when the roads are bad. I fought with Import Auto Body to replaced the worn tires, and could only get them to pay for two new tires.
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    jodymjodym Member Posts: 2
    I had the car aligned today. The service manager said the toe in was out on both the front and rear. The car did handle differently afterwards. There's now more resistance to my turning motion, which I think is a good thing. I'll put it to the test in a vacant parking lot. Thanks for the info.
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    phasor3phasor3 Member Posts: 3
    I would appreciate your reveiw on a 96 Corolla with 60K miles, std pkg. Thanks!
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    sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    Mine is a DX model that I bought used with 18k on the odometer and all I can say is that it's a great little car! I've got the 1.8 litre model and it runs really good and handles very decently. The tires I've got on it now are 185/65/14's but next time I plan to go with a 195/60/14 size. Tire Rack has said this is doable and a couple of car guys at work did it with no problems. All I can tell you is that if the car is in good shape and checks out with your mechanic, go for it. You won't be sorry!
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