Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

sshi · May 2001

I got my 2001 corolla LE 3 months ago, and put 3K on it. One day I found it was difficult to accelerate. It turned out that the transmission was broken. Can you believe it? The service man replaced the transmission with a new one. And it took two weeks for them to do so. I picked corolla because I thought it was the most reliable car. Now I donot believe in it any more.

britton2 · May 2001

Sorry to hear about your tranny trouble on your new Corolla LE - that's what I bought about 5 weeks ago - so far so good with mine - you said it was difficult to accelerate - you mean from a stop or changing gears? Thanks - by the way, what color is yours?

sshi · May 2001

It happened all of a sudden when I try to merge onto the high way. I hit the gas, and it wouldnot go beyond 40 MPH. It was smooth before that. Anyway, I am depressed. It is silver.

britton2 · May 2001

that is depressing - mine is mystic teal - hopefully everything will be OK with your new transmission-

dmendel · May 2001

I have been experiencing increasingly louder brake noise on my 99 Corolla LE with 26K miles. About six months ago I first started hearing a faint intermittent squeal from the front right when applying the brakes. I had less than 20K at that point, but I assumed that the brakes pads were wearing down and this was the warning sign. So I took it to a mechanic and he said the brakes were fine -- more than 80% of pads left. But the squealing has now gotten much louder over the past couple months -- you can hear it even with the radio on in the car and it is annoying the hell out of me. Now I just started feeling slight shimmy/vibration in the wheel when applying the brake. I posted a message a while back and was told the noise was normal for non-asbestos pads. But I doubt the vibration is normal too. I am taking it in to the dealer tomorrow. Question: is this a result of normal wear and tear? Or is there likely a defect here? Do other people have such noisy brakes? I can't imagine that this is normal. I anticipate a fight with the dealer, but I want this taken care of under warranty. Do I have a case here?

Mr_Shiftright · May 2001

I don't think so, since brake squeeling can be the result of many variables working at once. It is an annoyance, certainly, but not a defect per se. Of course, you should have everything checked out to make sure nothing's loose in there. Sometimes changing out the pads for different ones will help. Some cars are worse than others. Volvos were notorious squeekers for a long time.

truckdude1 · May 2001

We rent The CE and LE corolla, they seem to give us the least amount of trouble over all Domestic or Foreign compact cars, the motors are peepy and smooth, and we sell them and people come back to us with 60-80K miles and are satisfied,The corolla is a nice car, but yes breaks do tend to go out on Camry and Corolla for some odd reason, but i would like to know your guy's advice on the LE corolla are the nice and how good is the motor and everyting you can tell us?

kareski · May 2001

I have a 93 Corolla with 215000 miles and runs great. Recently when I make right, sometimes left, turn I get a chirping sound that sounds like it is coming right below the driver's side area. I was thinking if the power steering fluid was low or the belt loose that may be the trouble but everything seems fine under the hood. This sound only happens when the car is warmed up plus I feel no mechanical difference in the car. Has anyone out there had the same trouble?
Pete

medard · May 2001

Some meat products were left in the trunk of my corolla for 1 week before I remember them. The trunk still smells badly even after thorought cleaning. Any help out there? Thanks in advance.

ken126 · May 2001

I have a 5 speed corolla with only 200 miles on it, I have noticed like a rotating noise intermittly while driving. But when I press the clutch and hold it down while shifting the noise gets a lot louder......Any ideas anyone???
I am bringing it to the dealer on Friday

vishalthorat · May 2001

Hi,
What's the difference between SOHC & DOHC.
I have a 94 Corolla 1.6L. What type of engine does
that have?
Is it Interference fit

Mr_Shiftright · May 2001

A SOHC has one overhead camshaft that operates both intake and exhaust valves.

A DOHC has a separate camshaft for each set of valves.

txrose · May 2001

Hi, I have a 95 Corolla with 80,000 miles. Bought is used, have had it for two years with no major problems. The radio is not factory, but was installed when we bought it and has never caused problems before. Last week my son drove the car and told me that the radio kept going off. I dismissed it because I had been driving the car and had not had any problems. The next day we were 60 miles from home, the radio went off, the air conditioned went off, everything stopped, and we managed to get off of the interstate. Car would not start, had to be towed home. My mechanic could find nothing wrong except for corrosion on the battery. He cleaned it and charged and the car ran fine all week, going to and from work, approximately 12 miles one way. However, today I was about 20 miles from home and the radio cut off, several times. I got home okay, but needless to say I am afraid to venture far from home any time soon. Has anyone else had a problem like this, I really would love some feedback, I need to get this fixed. Thanks.

medard · May 2001

txrose,

Was your battery flat last time? How about the alternator, was it working properly? If the answers are yes in both cases, probably there is a bad ground in your circuit and it is easy to fix. The difficulty is to locate it, and the mechanic has to spend hours and cannot charge you an arm or a leg for the fix. That's why most of them are not eager to do the job.

Another hint, did you have a collision recently (even a minor fender bender)? Good luck.

terceltom1 · May 2001

I want to find your auto repair shop! I don't know of any repair shops that would spend hours trying to find an electrical short and not charge full rate for the time spent looking for it. Which to me might be an "arm and a leg"

old_guy_in_tx · May 2001

My dealer has quoted me $476.60 for the 30K service. This seems a little high. Flush radiator, replace oil/filter, service tranny, replace air filter, rotate tires, clean
injectors. 1998 corolla auto. 1.8l eng. Only Dealer in town.. - Captive audience,
Huh?

vlady · May 2001

Sorry to hear that:-((

I have got quoted for 310$ at one dealership and 350$ at another(plus tax). They cover everything you mentioned, besides cleaning injectors. May be you can cut price on refusing a injectors service. You don't really need this..

old_guy_in_tx · May 2001

Well, I contacted a local shop. they faxed the requirements sheet for "heavy Duty service" - I checked the Manual - This meets the "heavy duty service" there and they Quoted me - in writing - $240 and for "normal duty" $123. Soo, think I will Go to them... They are ASE of Course.. :-))

Thanks,

eneth · May 2001

To answer #410,

All U.S. Corollas except the 1988 FX model have had DOHC engines since 1988.

sandman46 · May 2001

I upgraded my tires on my '96 DX from 185/65/14's to 195/60/14's and within 5 minutes, I knew I had made a mistake. Luckily, the store I bought them from has a 30 day ride guarantee so within 24 hours, I went back and had the original size tires put back on. Drove like it used to so I'm sticking with the original size. Could be a fluke situation but think before y'all trade up in tire size. After almost 4 years with the car though, still love the ride!

vlady · May 2001

Are there any resons why you chandged your mind?

sandman46 · May 2001

The larger tires felt sloshy on the road the minute I drove off. They were balanced properly and inflated properly so I don't really know the problem. Car feels much better with the 185's though.

ken126 · May 2001

I am having a noise that sounds like something is either loose or not lubricated properly. I hear the noise when traveling over 30 miles per hour and is more pronounced when I press the clutch to switch gears. Dealer claims this is a normal noise which is BS, I just traded a 90 prizm with 311,000 miles on it and never heard that kind of noise. Anybody have any ideas??????

janeto1 · May 2001

I have a 1998 Toyota Corolla. It has about 20,000 miles on it. I bought it new. After about two years, the seat belt light would still flash sometimes even though my seat belt was on. Sometimes the light doesn't flash at all. Once, I noticed my seatbelt was off while I was driving and I looked and the light wasn't flashing. The problem happens somedays and not others. Any ideas? Would this be covered under warranty?

terceltom1 · May 2001

I'm sure it would be covered under warranty depending on when you purchased the car. Warranty is 36 mo. from time of purchase.

vlady · May 2001

The dealer will charge you some money(~60$) for a diagnostic. If they find a cause and it is covered by the warranty it will be replaced at no charge. Check the date when you bought a car and if I'm not mistaking all electrical parts have 24 month warranty.

terceltom1 · May 2001

All original parts on your car are covered under the basic warranty for 36 months or 36,000 miles whether they are electrical in nature or not. This of course excludes wear and tear parts. The seatbelt parts or warning system is not a wear and tear part so it should definetly be covered. Also, there should not be any diagnostic charge for a problem stemming from a covered warranty part.

duncan12 · May 2001

In answer to #412

I have the same exact problem with my 95' Corolla. My battery has been replaced, radio connections checked, alternator tested, and the grounds have been checked. No problems have been found. I have not been able to find anyone who can accurately diagnose this problem. Any feedback would be appreciated.

anjancd · May 2001

I have a 1997 Corolla CE with about 57000 miles on it. Since last 3-4 months, when i drive at 70mph or more (if you drive at less than 75mph on a 65mph zone on interstate, people really push you)i hear a very loud and constant humming noise. I showed it twice to my toyota dealer. During a test drive, the mechanic acknowledged that the noise was unusually more, so he shifted the auto shifter to Neutral and when i pressed the accelerator, the sound was still there.

Then, at the dealership, he lifted the car up on the hydraulic lifter, and ran the engine at 70mph. The sound was there. This means that the tyres and wheel alignment is out of question.

The chief technician also could not find any problem in the car. The only reason he could give was that its a 3-gear car and at 70mph the engine would revv. at a very high rpm. I don't necessarily believe that cause i can feel all the four gears change when i drive.

Any suggestions??

-acd

txrose · June 2001

Since the first time I wrote my car has been back to my mechanic two times, in fact it is there now. Last time he replaced the battery (and the alternator was replaced in March). So last week when I was driving, I used the turn signal, the radio went off and then the next time I tried to start, the battery was dead. My neighbor came to jump it and it started right up. Sometimes if I am driving at night the lights will start to dim and then go out, so needless to say I try NOT to drive at night (for a while). So anyone who can help me and #427, please; cause I know I am driving my mechanic crazy. He is really nice and has not charged me anything yet, until it is fixed for sure.

anjancd · June 2001

#429,

I would suggest you take out that radio, and reconnect the original wires. Make sure the fuse is good while you do that. You can do it yourself also if you are comfortable. Your radio might be short circuiting itself causing other circuits to fail.

If that doesn't work, i suggest you write this to toyota. On toyota website, there's an owner's section. You can become a member by giving the VIN number of your car.

terceltom1 · June 2001

I agree with anjancd, it is most likely an electrical short. Although it could be anywhere not just the radio. I had a short in my "86" Tercel recently. It took me awhile to find it. It was the wiring from my rear hatch to the rest of the car. The wire insulation was worn off totally where the wire moved when opening the hatch allowing the bare wire to touch the metal causing the short.

txrose · June 2001

Thanks anjancd and terceltom1, I will take your advice to my mechanic and will let you know how things turn out. Appreciate your help.

bja4 · June 2001

The seat-belt light/devise was fixed in my 98 Corolla under warranty while I was getting the driver's mirror replaced. The mirror would vibrate (fuzzy reflection) at highway speeds. I'm not even sure what was done to fix seat-belt light, but Ehrlich Toyota had me back on the road in less than a hour at no charge. Fantastic service even though I didn't buy the car from them.

kabocza · June 2001

I have a 1998 Corolla. After 48,000 miles my driver side (inside) door handle broke off completely, and the one on the passenger side is just about to go, too. In my opinion they are very poor quality plastic pieces. It is shocking that Toyota allowed them to be installed. I paid about $20.00 to get a new one. I am a women, and I could replace it myself. (True, I do not have electric locks.) I do not expect the new one to last too long either. Same type of cheap plastic... Also, the little door just below my clock broke off, too! Same cheap plastic! Now that I refuse to replace. Waste of money.
Another issue:
I just passed 53,000 miles. Now here is the newest joy: the seat belt light stays on blinking. Very annoying. I will not take it to the dealer, unless someone will advise me to the contrary. Yes, it is annoying, but the car is rolling just fine with the light blinking. I see from posting others had the same problem.
I wanted to post my message to make all the fellows with the same problem feel better.

serenity2765 · June 2001

background: This vehicle first experienced problems about four (4) weeks ago. The engine would not crank. Panel lamps came on, but no click from the starter assembly. The vehicle was towed to my residence. Upon cranking the engine immediately after rolling the vehicle off the tow truck, the engine started. The starter was suspect and was replaced. Initially, the vehicle would not crank. It was determined that the ignition wire "AM1" had no voltage (12v) and thus the ACC (accessories) position on the ignition switch was dead. This also explained the loss of all accessory operations (ie radio, fan, rear window defroster, etc.). Having bypassed the main wiring harness with a wire from the +12v side of the battery to the AM1 contact on the ignition switch, the vehicle started immediately. A good solid yank on the wiring harness (by accident) caused a connection to be made and the car started normally. The vehicle operated normally for the next week.

The vehicle experienced a no ignition failure while approaching a stop sign about a week later. The vehicle was immediately re-started by putting the car into neutral and turning the ignition key before it could roll to a stop. A weekly later, the car did the same thing. Waiting at a stop light, the ignition failed. The car was re-started by turning the ignition key within two minutes (note it took longer to start the car here than during the last episode) and continued on without further incidence.

Saturday, the vehicle traveled approximately 120 miles. The vehicle was parked in the garage at my residence. A number of hours later the car would not start. The engine cranked, but there appeared to be no spark signal. I verified the following:

1. There was no spark getting to the spark plugs
2. The resistance of the plug wires is low. Spec is 10k ohms - 25k ohms; measured below 10k ohms average.
3.The ignition coil resistance of the primary winding was tested (cold). Spec is 0.36 ohms - 0.55 ohms; measured 0.5 ohms;
4. The ignition coil resistance of the secondary winding was tested (cold). Spec is 9.0k ohms; - 15.7k ohms; measured 11k ohms;
5. The pickup coil resistance G+ to G- terminals was tested (cold). Spec is 185ohms; - 275ohms; Measured 250ohms;
6.The pickup coil resistance NE+ to NE- Spec is 1,630 ohms - 2,740 ohms; I do not understand where are how to measure this value. This vehicle does not appear to have such a value. The NE+ to NE- measurement appears to simply be the primary side of the ignition coil. So again, I did not measure this item.
7. I verified that I had +12v on pins 1 and 3 of the connector going to the ignitor. I have no further documentation on how to test the ignitor itself.

After having done all of these measurements, re assembling the ignition system the vehicle cranked, but did not start. A couple of good yanks on the wiring harness and the car started.

NOTE: The rotor was recently replaced. The rotor cap was not and does show signs of some corrosion and wear.

The car was driven to a short distance and left running Sunday morning. Ten minutes latter it was in my garage. The car sat for approximately three (3) hours in the garage. While driving later that afternoon (about 10 minutes) the car lost its ignition signal. I was unable to start the vehicle with the usual set of tricks, and it was necessary to have the vehicle towed. At this point I am suspecting the ignitor module (external), but this does not explain why/how a good yank on the wiring harness would usually correct the situation.

One last piece to the puzzle. I installed a drain and fill kit about 2 years ago. If you locate the drain and fill kit connection in the heater core hose, you will notice that the wiring harness crosses directly underneath. Furthermore, this spot in the harness has a rubber shield on the underside of the harness presumable to prevent water from splashing up from the underside. When a previous starter was installed, it was discovered that the drain and fill kit had been leaking directly over this rubber shield. This shield was now acting as a diaper and the harness was sitting in a pool of antifreeze. An air hose was stuck in and air was forced in for about fifteen (15) minutes in an attempt to dry out the harness. It was not determined if the antifreeze had penetrated the harness itself, but I mention it here as a possibility. We may have a corrosion situation of some of the wires at this point in the harness.

Anyone have any ideas? How do you test the external ignitor? That part is $360+ !!!

andyman1970 · June 2001

Hi, I'm looking for a recommendation for Synthetic Oil for a 97 CE with 50K miles. Thanks, Andy

gunga64 · June 2001

Hi,

I have a 95 dx, it has 110k miles on it and here are the things I had problems with.

1. 2 years into car Replaced battery
2. 4 years into car replaced battery second time when repair shop told me it was the problem, when my car wouldnt start. Wasnt the problem
Due to misdiagnotic I replaced the starter, when it didnt need to be replaced.
Replaced the alternator problem fixed the problem.
4. 4 years into the car the thermostat went out and car overheated
5. 6 years into the car Radiater was plugged up with rust had to replace it, was told heads didnt warp, and engine was ok.
6. After I had radiator replaced the car now makes a lot of knocking noise when I accelerate, can anyone tell me what this might be.
7. hehe minor problem with right rear light keep burning out I think I finally fixed it.
I put this car through hell on a daily basis so these problems are acceptable.

One reoccuring problem I have been having is the brake pads have worn down a lot and squecked every 1 1/2 years I replace the pads. So far I have replaced the pads 3 times since 1995. The rotor is still ok. I figure theres a problem with the calipers but I dont mind putting lifetime pads on it every 1 1/2 years.

I would like to know if this stuff looks like what you guys might be getting. Also if you guys have any idea why the car would make all kinda tin car sounds when I accelerate. I dont think its the gas, I'm thinking its the ignition or the pressure.

I checked the plugs they look fine, the wires look pretty run down but doubt thats the problem.

gunga64 · June 2001

Sounds like your problem starting is the alternator, even after a shop checked mine they didnt see it was the alternator they told me to buy a battery bought battery and within week had same problem starting I then put in a starter problem was still there. I then replaced the alternator that cured the starting problem. Seems that the problem with the alternator was not always there would come and go, so the tests didnt work on it. Very hard problem to check for.
95 corolla 110k on it orginal owner and still going.

gunga64 · June 2001

Sounds like your Distributor cap might be cracked very common problem with cars. Water could have gottten into it.

The signs are usually the car will run but as you push the gas it backfires and slows down sometime even stalls.

gunga64 · June 2001

Now to my problem.

I put my car through hell it has 110k on a 1995 dx, so a few problems are acceptable.After replacing the radiator. My car lost power, and now when I excellerate it clanks at first, more then usual.

I'm hoping I didnt damage the engine driving it with a non working radiator for 2 days, I kinda doubt I did.

I figure its the fuel system, ignition, or valves.

Have never replaced the spark plug wires they do look beat up a lot one almost fell apart on me. I checked the plugs they look great no residue and gap looks ok.

I just hope its not an engine problem. Anyone have any ideas.

Mr_Shiftright · June 2001

Spark plug wires should be replaced at around 60K or less, so you are way overdue. As for the engine problems, it could be anything, but if the engine was overheated by the bad radiator, you could indeed have damage. Modern engines do not like to overheat at all, there is not much slack when they do.

cor98 · June 2001

I have a 98 corolla. This summer, it seems to have problem with the air conditioning. It works fine at night or without the sun. However, every time when the sun is shinning, it's not cold. Even I turned to the highest speed, it just keep blowing cool but not cold air. What do you think will be the problem? Does 98 corolla use freon for air conditioning? Do I have to add it? Thanks.

terceltom1 · June 2001

I am having the same problem right now with my "86" Tercel. The a.c. fine in the evening and in slightly cooler temps. but not in the sun.

gunga64 · June 2001

Well I found out what my clanking noise was my waterpump lost a bearing and leaked. Had that replaced and my 2nd timing belt installed at same time since it only cost me 75 bucksand it had 55k on it already figured it was worth it.. Now the cars running nice and quiet. Quietest I heard it run in years. I could have sworn it was a valve problem. but getting the pump replaced fixed it good. 110k and still on the road.

gunga64 · June 2001

Actually my 1995 corolla has great ac, I agree sometimes it takes some time to get it cool.
I have found the following, If you close the vent on the left side you get more coming through the middle vents, also instead of running the ac at full fan speed try it one notch lower or even the middle setting. This seems to have sped up the cooling for me. Then later on you wont be able to stand the full setting when it gets going. Keeping your car in the sun most of the time not running does slow the performance of the ac down a lot.

I have a feeling the ac may be warmer at first because the radiator is hot from the sun being on it. The ac works best when the radiator is cool. Thats why it takes time for the ac to cool you off.

You can always have your cars ac checked for freon if your really sweating.

snflwrselena · July 2001

Last weekend my roomate scratched my bumper with his bumper. There are a few scratches about 3inches long and a 1/8 inch wide. He said he can use touchup paint and buff it and the bumper will look like new. My old car had a scratch fixed with touchup paint and it never looked right again. Would you suggest I take it to a shop and have them fix it correctly or go the touchup paint route. Regardless of the way I fix it, the roomate is going to pay. I think he just wants to take the cheap way out. The car is a 2000 and other than the scratch it is in perfect condition. Thanks

nithinr · July 2001

The clutch has burnt out twice now. The first one lasted 45k mi and this one, 28k mi. Dealer is claiming bad driving has caused this. But this car has been driven very softly by a person who has owned 4 manual cars over 25 years and never had this problem. Any ideas??

scname · July 2001

and starter solenoid and neutral safety switch on a 89 Corolla ?

My Corolla won't start, battery is fully charged.

fz3mdf · July 2001

My daughter has a 93 toyota corolla with 130,000 miles. Recently the oil usage has become extreme (3 to 4 qts of oil every 3000 miles). I do not notice the car smoking and there are no oil leaks under her car where she parks nor do I see any wet oil on or under the engine. What can I be looking for? Should I take the car in to the dealer and have him check the compression for rings?

Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair

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